Lifting my 95 YJ - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 245 Old 04-07-2012, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean H View Post
probably rear driveshaft... guessing its SYE time for you.
Yea. I may try to get rid of the reverse shackle system first. May put me up the extra half inch that's screwing me up? If not I'll look into the sye.


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post #17 of 245 Old 04-07-2012, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Looks like I'll have to make my own leaf hangers for the fronts if i wanna lose the reversal kit Anyone know if they sell the front leaf hangers for the backside of the leafs ?

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post #18 of 245 Old 04-09-2012, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Why are sye's so much $$$$$$. Fml. Having little vibrations and the rear driveshaft sticks out a bit and leaks a little. I'll post pics tmra. I think an sye may be a better route than going back and turning around the shackles and such then I would also have I make my own leaf hangers.. Maybe more than I want to tackle. Looking for a cheap and easy way around it lol

2012- Gecko JK Rubicon Unlimited- building...
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post #19 of 245 Old 04-10-2012, 05:57 AM
tablesaw
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Did you lower the TC ?
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post #20 of 245 Old 04-10-2012, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tablesaw
Did you lower the TC ?
Yes I did

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post #21 of 245 Old 04-10-2012, 07:16 AM
1993sahara
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Sye and cv shaft are probably the best mods I've done to my jeep. I only have 2.5 inches of lift but I needed it. I couldn't go above 30 mph after the lift

93 Sahara 4.0, ax15, BDS 2 inch springs, MORE greasable 5/8hd shackles, Ford 8.8 rear, AA sye, Quigley cv shaft, 32" wrangler mtr with Kevlar
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post #22 of 245 Old 04-10-2012, 08:37 AM
Fuddmaster
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Check eBay for the sye and for the driveshaft! How do you like the RC lift?
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post #23 of 245 Old 04-10-2012, 09:14 AM
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I have the same lift on mine but without the SRS or extended shackles, 33x10.5x15 M/T KM2s fit perfectly. I had to adjust the steering stops out maybe 1 turn to keep the rear of the tires from rubbing the springs at full lock. Now there's about 5/16" clearance, which I left for when I'm aired down.

I'd ditch the track bars and just run the swaybar, I did it on mine and it helps articulation while not adversely affecting stability in turns. The PO never installed the swaybar links or dropped pitman arm from the kit, I did both of those last weekend and my bump steer is gone now. I still want to bring it in for an alignment, because it wanders just a bit (though it may be due to the mud tires or tire pressure (30psi).)

Phil

'90 YJ w/4.2l & 4.0l head, Weber carb, 5-speed, 4" RC lift, 33x10.5x15 BFG MT KM2s.
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post #24 of 245 Old 04-13-2012, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Some progress. 33x12.5 duratracs. Love the way they ride. They're not loud and they ride smooth.
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post #25 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 05:35 AM
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Looks good!

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65 Ford Mustang 289/c4
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post #26 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 06:55 AM
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What size lift?? Looks good!

JEEP: its not what you buy, its what you build.
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post #27 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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4 inch rc suspension and 3/4 shackle with a shackle reversal. Today I'm doing TJ flares

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post #28 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 07:08 AM
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Just some food for thought. When I was working on my jeep, I put the 3.5" BDS lift on with 1/2" lift shackles. At the time I installed them the body wasn't on and I could clearly see that I was going to have bad driveline vibrations. I thought that maybe when I got the body on it would push the suspension down far enough to take care of it. Now here is the weird part my skid plate was shot, rusted, and flaking, so I replaced it with a like new one and poof it was all fixed, that was even before I put the body on. So maybe that's why there is so much difference between everyone's lift/sye install. I think that there is more material gone from your skid plate than stock so your drop kit doesn't drop far enough and if your skid plate has ever been damage on rocks that only compounds the problem. Think about it some and inspect your setup and see if my hypotheses holds water( no pun intended) good luck
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post #29 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziloh22 View Post
Why are sye's so much $$$$$$. Fml. Having little vibrations and the rear driveshaft sticks out a bit and leaks a little. I'll post pics tmra. I think an sye may be a better route than going back and turning around the shackles and such then I would also have I make my own leaf hangers.. Maybe more than I want to tackle. Looking for a cheap and easy way around it lol
THIS is why most of try to tell/warn guys that there is more to lifting a YJ than just the lift. An SYE/CV is the correct way to go, but there is another possible cheaper route you can take. Since you've already done the TC drop, 2 other things you can do.
1. check to make sure your shims (assuming RC included shims) are giving proper pinion angles. standard dline output/pinions need to be in parallel.
2. instal a 1" mm lift. this will tilt the TC output down a little and help the angle and 'might' let the slip move in a little. (but I doubt it would be much if any at all)

Aside from the above, you'll likely be going thru ujoints on a regular basis. Not to mention you now have an increased chance of dropping your dline if you over flex.
This is why an SYE is a better solution.

btw... the SRS has nothing to do with your dline problems. and I'm also not sure why you want to get rid of it. now that you're almost done, drive it a bit and see how it works out. if you have no bump steer and it steers ok, then why change it? it looks to be one of the kits quadtech used to sell... or still may sell. not completely sure. but they got good reviews IIRC.



WRM

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post #30 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Def learning more as i go. Thanks for all the input guys. Love my yj

Just relocated my side mirrors today to the windshield. Hopefully I will get to the flares tomorrow

2012- Gecko JK Rubicon Unlimited- building...
2007 JK Rubicon Unlimited- 3.5 RK X Factor 37s-SOLD
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