Hello, name's Ed and starting this thread about 7 years into this build, although I've only owned the Jeep for about 2.5 years. Want this thread to show current and any future progression. I'll try to put as much past stuff in it so it shows what I learned works and doesn't work. Also want this to be a place to BS as well. Currently clogging up my other friend’s build pages with chatter, ha, so I want some place they can post too.
My old man bought it stock to build in 2004, which I did most of the engine, drivetrain, and mechanical work on over a period of 5 years while it sat in his driveway rotting and waiting for him to finish it. Wishing now I would have taken more pics of it as I was working on it. Dad did a lot of wiring, and while he likes things clean, he’s not always sure how to wire things up. I’ve had to fix a lot (almost all, sorry pops) of things while working on it, but I generally try to improve the heep all the time. Ended up chucking and/or selling off a bunch of stuff the PDO and dad did to it as well. Had to assemble the complete interior because it sat out of the vehicle for 3 years.
It’s gone through several stages of lifts before it even seen rubber to rock… or even road. The suspension from stock started with a BDS/RE 3 inch, then went to an RE 7 inch and with the springs and ACOS, probably 10-11 inches of lift and 35’s. I lowered it because it was just WAY too tall. Currently, she has about 7 or 8 inches of lift with 35’s. It's in a constant state of build, that's for sure.
When I first bought it off dad (I was doing work prior to get it to the point where I would just be able to drive the sucker):
Then finally when I got it on the road sitting in front of the house:
I had to put the Mickey T's on because the PRO-COMP steelies where way too hard to balance and actually seemed to be out-of-round.
It snowed a lot in 2010
As Samuel Jackson would(n't) say, "Quit goofing off and shovel snow, woman!"
Pretty much as it is sitting right now, anyone want to play a before and after? Big changes are coming...
I wish PA did not have fender laws like some other states, I'd be hacking them fenders up for clearance and taking the flares off. The Jeep is not ready to be a dedicated trail rig. I use it a lot for camping and want to keep it legal so they stay for the time being. I have ideas though.
I will continue this first post with a list of current mods... this will take some time. I'll also be filling in blanks between then and now with pics and mods that I have done.
Last edited by krashnpa; 11-01-2011 at 05:56 AM..
Reason: more pics
- 4.HOE, Because it’s a whore and doesn’t care what it does.
- AW4 Heat box.
- Hacked up Turbo City Rock it air filter-and-now-short-ram-intake
- Ford Injectors, 24lb, if I remember right
- Firepower ignition
- Optima yellowtop
- Painless central master power disconnect
- 99 WJ intake manifold
- 62 mm bore throttle body
- Gibson SS header
- Flowmaster 40 and Carsound High Flow Cat
- Dynomax early XJ tail pipe.
- Brown Dog motor mounts
- Derale oil cooler with fan (puller), AN braided lines
- PSC power steering pump, fluid reservoir, AN Aeroquip lines
- Derale heat sink PS fluid cooler, AN braided lines
- Engine driven fan delete
- BRX silicone hoses (think they may be defunct now)
- FF Dynamics rad with the triple threat fan setup (puller)
- FlowKooler water pump
- FlowKooler thermostat (some special robertshaw)
- High-flow thermostat housing
- SPAL PWM fan controller (I don’t recommend this for a Cherokee application, neither do they if you go to their website, it doesn’t like fans that pull power).
- Permacool Trans cooler with puller fan, with Summit Racing auxiliary cooler plumbed inline, AN braided lines
- Hy-Line Off-Road hood vents with TJ (?) cowl ram intake for trans cooler (mounted to hood)
- Ports for engine oil and trans fluid temps. Also port for engine coolant temp coming out of engine.
- Mobil 1 Synthetics
Drivetrain(rest of it)/Wheels/Tires:
- Roctrac 241OR 4:1 with 2WD low and Spicer 1310 yokes
- Novak TC Shifter
- Tom Woods CV shafts
- Dakota Speed Signal Converter
- Front D30R with TNT truss, 4.88 gearing, ARB, Yukon shafts, Spicer joints, TNT LCA brackets, HD air line
- Rear 8.25 with 4.88 gearing, ARB, 29 spl Superior shafts, HD air line
- Poison Spyder rock ring in rear
- ARB diff cover on the D30
- 5 35x12.5R15 Procomp Mud Terrains on Mickey T fake locks (I like the wheels but they are bee-otch to keep clean)
- HD Off-Road Engineering unit body stiffeners
- Custom 4x4 rock rails
- Rockhard rear bumper/carrier
- Full OR-Fab front bumper with 12k XRC winch and interior controls
- Warn Tcase Armor
- OR-Fab quarter armor with tree rail
- Custom-hacked Tomken engine/trans skid (protects trans and exhaust wye-pipe)
- AEV/Nth Degree oil pan skid
- Skid Row tank skid Illumination:
- Hella Front Lights, Xenon bulbs
- Two PIAA 520s (High/Low beams)
- Four IPF 968 long range, 100 Watts
- Two Rigid Industries Dually LED flood lights (rear)
- Two KC daylighter reverse lamps
- Eight LED Superbrightleds.com rock lights
Instrumentation/Electronics: - Aux Gauges (Autometer Ultra Lite) A/F ratio, trans temp, oil temp, water temp, volts, vacuum, oil pressure, air pressure)
- Boyo LCD rearview with front and rear cameras
- Dual Ipod deck
- Infinity speakers
- Midland 1001WX CB w/Firestik II antenna
- Cobra 1500 watt inverter
- Remote Start and Alarm w/2-way.
Tools and Misc:
- ViAir 450 compressor
- 2 gallon air tank
- Husky Liners
- Daystar roof rack
Talk about stuffing 20 lbs of ***** in a 10lb can! I am tired of lists. I am sure I am forgetting stuff anyway. Had a little time to work on my tan last night so I finished welding up the BTF truss on the D44R. It will never bend. Ever. Unless I put it under an MRAP or something. This is the second set of axles being built for this thing. Ended up selling the first set to pay off some things.
Like I said, this things been through stages of lifts... before it was driven...Dad originally started with 32 inch tires, but decided to run 35's. The funny thing is, I had already installed 4.11's. I kept the 4.11's with the 35's for one trip. 35's with 4.11's on a heavy a$$ XJ just doesn't work on the highway. First trip to VA confirmed that. It would constantly hunt gear, trans ran way hot. So, I decided to put 4.88s in.
And a TNT truss too..
I don't like working gearing on the ground, so I pulled the axles to do it. One at a time, of course.
See that OR-Fab bumper? The whole purpose of that was to get the winch out of the front of the radiator. If you look at the first couple pics, dad put a Warn bumper on originally. Thought it blocked too much air and caused the Jeep to run hot. Then the Warn 9.5ti had to come off because it DOES NOT fit in the OR-Fab tray. I should have called OR-Fab because the place I bought it off of did not know that. So I ended up with the Smitty XRC 12k on the front because it fits. I come to find out the Jeep ran hot because dad (in his infinite quest for gauges) put a water temp gauge fitting in the engine coolant outlet hose that necked down from 1.25 to 1 inch. DOH!!!!! So I bought all that ended up only needing a $17 part to help with the cooling issues. Dad says he like the Warn bumper better. Ha! Thanks Dad....
I will say the 4.88s make all the difference. The drivetrain just doesn't work as hard. With the 4:1 tho, low range is not an option over 15-20 mph. The engine is screaming. Might be a good excuse for an Atlas? Hmmm....
One of my more recent editions - the cobra DC/AC inverter I inherited from my dad since he didn't need it in the truck anymore. Bought a nice set of jumper cables, cut the ends off, and ran them from the battery to the inverter at back of the Heep. Works well, says 3000 watts, but 1500 is nominal. I can run drills, computers, etc. off of it. Nice to have when camping.
This came today to replace my current in tank pump. This will be the third FP in a year. Airtex, Spectra, now Carter. I am tired of replacing them but I am also getting good at it. The problem isn't the pump itself, it is the check valve in the FPR at the top of the assembly - it fails. Airtex lasted probably 250-300 miles. Spectra lasted maybe 50 miles. WTF. The Carter is made in the USA (actually Federal Mogul), so hopefully that makes a difference.
Also, despite what you might have heard, seen, or read, the inline (BMW) check valve does NOT (read: DOES NOT) work on 97+ Jeeps. On 96 down, yes, this will work. The check valve holds the pressure. ALL OF IT. When your Jeep is cold - no problem. But when she gets hot, you get expansion. Pressure rises above 100 PSI, easily. This will blow out Orings, or worse an injector. The FPR is designed to relieve pressure to 40 PSI when the Jeep is shut down. There's plenty of people with experience out there, do a google search.
Ebay bumper all painted up. Not sure when I will get time to install, probably when I weld up the front frame stiffeners. I want to add a hoop to it. I like it better than the OR-Fab, but it will raise the winch. Don't get me wrong, the OR-Fab bumper is beef, it's just sitting about 2 inches lower than this one will. That's the thing about this stuff a lot of times you are trading one thing off for another. Anybody want to offer to buy my OR-Fab bumper to give me some incentive to take it off?!
Used VHT epoxy paint as a base. This stuff is the shiznit! Trust me. You have to let it harden though. It is rock hard after a week.
Second coat is Rustoleum spray on bedliner. Also very tough stuff. I use it on my flares and rock rails too. Touch up is cake.
Cute puppy I saw when I went to get the sh!tty powedercoating sandblasted off my rock rails.
The original setup I installed. The RE short arm with drop brackets. It's a good alternative to a long arm. Rides great. Clearance was non-issue with 35's and it flexed good. I got a sweet deal on a Clayton long arm so I sold it.
Installing the long arm and HD Engineering Unit Body Stiffeners. The unit body stiffeners have a ton of holes in them to weld up. It takes longer than you'd think. Sorry about the crappy cell pic.
Roctrac 241OR vs 231J. Bench pressing that sucker in was non-issue, and it fits with no issues. Got this tcase on the cheap.
Back of the trans
Ready for the Clayton crossmember. Clayton makes it bomb-proof. I have no doubt it makes the station wagon stiffer. You can see the novak shifter up front. It is so much better than the miles of linkage Jeep bubble gummed up. It's worth the dough.
Worked on Welding the Clayton brkts up to the 44 today. Since my cell phone is a POS, it didn't save the pic, so I will throw up a pic of a recent score I stumbled upon: Edelbrock Extreme travel IAS shocks for the rear. Let me just say, I do not like chrome on the Jeep, but these are nice. They are valved for an F250, and they work great on the heavy a$$ XJ. The best part of it all? $60 each, shipped. You can't beat it.