Just another LJ build - Page 129 - JeepForum.com

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post #1921 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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One last thing ... I ordered some tires . Ouch

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post #1922 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
Not sure if I am going to pursue this or not , after talking to Hendrix I am considering notching my grille and sliding the winch back . This would allow me to trim the frame back the sway bar cross tube , and that would probably give me the little bit of clearance I need .
Exsqueeze me? Baking powder? Come again? Why am I only just now hearing about this, and what's it going to take to do it cleanly?

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #1923 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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Exsqueeze me? Baking powder? Come again? Why am I only just now hearing about this, and what's it going to take to do it cleanly?
I cant tell you all my secrets

Truthfully I am not sure how much material can be removed until I remove the bumper . I have thought about trimming the cross tube and plating the front as the sway bar's o.d. is smaller than the i.d. of the cross tube . This is just the talking out loud stage as I figure out what I want to do up front . What started this conversation was my lust to have the front tires stick just past the bumper so that the tires hit the ledges before the bumper . Hendrix thought I was nuts for wanting to move the steering box and suggested this route which could possibly be an easier way of accomplishing the task .

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post #1924 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:26 PM
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Do both, the frame sticks about 1/2" in front of the tube that the anti rock resides inIf you hack everything in front of the steering box mount of you would gain roughly 2" which is not enough to get the tires even with the front. So you would still have to push the axle forward. Bigger tires help the equation also

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post #1925 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
Truthfully I am not sure how much material can be removed until I remove the bumper . I have thought about trimming the cross tube and plating the front as the sway bar's o.d. is smaller than the i.d. of the cross tube . This is just the talking out loud stage as I figure out what I want to do up front . What started this conversation was my lust to have the front tires stick just past the bumper so that the tires hit the ledges before the bumper . Hendrix thought I was nuts for wanting to move the steering box and suggested this route which could possibly be an easier way of accomplishing the task .
Well, he's right; I was looking at the UCF Rock Crawler bumper as an alternative for a front crossmember and figured out that it's more trouble than it's worth if you're keeping any kind of swaybar and conventional steering. I don't think you'll get more than an inch or so before you run out of space and get into severe crossmember and steering alterations...but if that's what you want to do, more power to you. It's odd that we were looking at the same areas at the same time, not having discussed it.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #1926 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:37 PM
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quit farting around and just do this, if that is what you are after.
Even with a 5" front stretch you barely get the tires even with the front. To do that and be able to get enough up travel to my liking the Steering box had to go all the way to the front. Frame had to be straightened to get room for uptravel. Front got bobbed a lil, winch sits almost in the grille.


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post #1927 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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Do both, the frame sticks about 1/2" in front of the tube that the anti rock resides inIf you hack everything in front of the steering box mount of you would gain roughly 2" which is not enough to get the tires even with the front. So you would still have to push the axle forward. Bigger tires help the equation also
35's and some cutting should make for a much better approach than I have now . Have you seen anyone cut the cross tube and plate it ? I basically want to make a D shape out of it.

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Well, he's right; I was looking at the UCF Rock Crawler bumper as an alternative for a front crossmember and figured out that it's more trouble than it's worth if you're keeping any kind of swaybar and conventional steering. I don't think you'll get more than an inch or so before you run out of space and get into severe crossmember and steering alterations...but if that's what you want to do, more power to you. It's odd that we were looking at the same areas at the same time, not having discussed it.
The Currie steering and swaybar is staying , but I think a D shaped crosstube is in the near future . It is funny that were both looking at bobbing the front a little .

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quit farting around and just do this, if that is what you are after.
Even with a 5" front stretch you barely get the tires even with the front. To do that and be able to get enough up travel to my liking the Steering box had to go all the way to the front. Frame had to be straightened to get room for uptravel. Front got bobbed a lil, winch sits almost in the grille.

I have considered an FJ60 steering gear box , but I have to be careful to not end up with a rig I dont enjoy driving on the road . I dont want to chop the frame and straighten it , so I guess I will have to be happy with what I can gain by trimming back to the cross tube .

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post #1928 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:48 PM
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That's a good deal on those tires Beasley. It's funny reading that front end talk also...... I too am thinking about how to suck that bumper in as close as possible now that I'm not using the stock sway bar. And you know I'm down for some choppin.....


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post #1929 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:49 PM
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You can cut the tube out just use a piece of 1.5" tubing for the anti rock that's what their smaller bushings for the rear antirock take.
That will gain you about 1.5" at best.

There isn't a lot of room to gain without doing a lot of work



I would just lob the that tube off and just weld a 2x3 piece of rectangular tube in it's place and skip the bumper all together. Run the anti rock through it and be done. You cut the grille to recess the winch then you can cut the frame to the front of the steering box mount and then weld in a new crossmember. That will be as close as you can possibly make it

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post #1930 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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That's a good deal on those tires Beasley. It's funny reading that front end talk also...... I too am thinking about how to suck that bumper in as close as possible now that I'm not using the stock sway bar. And you know I'm down for some choppin.....
Even at a good deal it was painful to spend , I pick the oddest things to be cheap over . And chopping is a good thing
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Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
You can cut the tube out just use a piece of 1.5" tubing for the anti rock that's what their smaller bushings for the rear antirock take.
That will gain you about 1.5" at best.

There isn't a lot of room to gain without doing a lot of work

[/URL][URL=http://s911.photobucket.com/user/jhendrix05/media/006_zps25ad5570.jpg.html]
The smaller bushings and 1.5" tubing is genius ! Thanks Art .

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post #1931 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley
Even at a good deal it was painful to spend , I pick the oddest things to be cheap over . And chopping is a good thing The smaller bushings and 1.5" tubing is genius ! Thanks Art .

It's actually 1.75 tubing but it's also a thinner wall. They sell the bushings and the precut tube.


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post #1932 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 09:59 PM
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Even at a good deal it was painful to spend , I pick the oddest things to be cheap over . And chopping is a good thing

The smaller bushings and 1.5" tubing is genius ! Thanks Art .
Anyway if you look at this pic and where the front of the steering box mount and or steering box ends will be your most forward point of what you can lob of the frame

[/URL]

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post #1933 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 10:01 PM
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Man I really thought the front frame stuck out further beyond that cross tube. Their really isn't much to be gained without getting rid of it. I think running a bumper no wider than the frame rails is also a viable way to increase approach.... were not always hitting obstacles square.


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post #1934 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 10:02 PM
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You can cut the tube out just use a piece of 1.5" tubing for the anti rock that's what their smaller bushings for the rear antirock take. That will gain you about 1.5" at best. There isn't a lot of room to gain without doing a lot of work...

I would just lob the that tube off and just weld a 2x3 piece of rectangular tube in it's place and skip the bumper all together. Run the anti rock through it and be done. You cut the grille to recess the winch then you can cut the frame to the front of the steering box mount and then weld in a new crossmember. That will be as close as you can possibly make it
I guessed somewhere around 2", with the steering box mount being the rearmost extent of easy cutting, and that's assuming I found a way to move the Antirock mounts rearwards; the tube is a good solution. What's the easiest way to handle the grill's body mount tab if one is keeping it in place?

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #1935 of 4128 Old 10-06-2013, 10:02 PM
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Anyway if you look at this pic and where the front of the steering box mount and or steering box ends will be your most forward point of what you can lob of the frame [/URL]
Agreed, you can only go back to the slope of the steering skid before you run into a big problem, but it's about 1.5 " from the front edge of the bumper.


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