Just another LJ build - Page 118 - JeepForum.com

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post #1756 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 12:38 PM
gspup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
I've only seen issues with ARB's in cold when it's really cold like 0 degrees and below. Once the diff heats up with use, the issue goes away. Also, the issue is that it won't lock. I would rather have a locker not lock than have pieces of broken spider gears all over my diff. Those won't work regardless of the temperature.

Also it doesn't matter if ARB is local. They have telephones and take delivery of packages from UPS, Fedex, and USPS daily assuming you are in the rare minority of people that have an issue.
Freezing and below is what I'm speaking about specifically(really cold)...and the diffs don't warm up when your stuck and not moving. Not really trying to argue it's just happened to many times to me personally and getting out of the woods was not fun. No ARB for me...just my personal opinion man.

It does matter if ARB is local because I really like to support local businesses. Obviously they receive shipments from all freight companies.


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post #1757 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 12:45 PM
IEcrawlerTJ01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspup

Freezing and below is what I'm speaking about specifically(really cold)...and the diffs don't warm up when your stuck and not moving. Not really trying to argue it's just happened to many times to me personally and getting out of the woods was not fun. No ARB for me...just my personal opinion man.

It does matter if ARB is local because I really like to support local businesses. Obviously they receive shipments from all freight companies.
ARB is not a company I would consider a "local business"

There world wide...


SAVVY,CURRIE,GOODYEAR

Nuff said...
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post #1758 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 12:53 PM
gspup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IEcrawlerTJ01 View Post
ARB is not a company I would consider a "local business"

There world wide...

Wow man.

So they don't help stimulate the local economy ? Jobs to residents, etc ?

I'm not trying to argue over semantics.

TJ build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/ljs-devil-1329976/
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post #1759 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 01:42 PM
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspup View Post
Freezing and below is what I'm speaking about specifically(really cold)...and the diffs don't warm up when your stuck and not moving. Not really trying to argue it's just happened to many times to me personally and getting out of the woods was not fun. No ARB for me...just my personal opinion man.

It does matter if ARB is local because I really like to support local businesses. Obviously they receive shipments from all freight companies.
The cold issue is easily fixed with dry air in the form of an air dryer in the line. ARB's are used in Iceland and other cold climates with no issues as long as the air is dry. Semi trucks would have similar problems if not for the air dryer that they use.

Also, are the Eaton E lockers made where you live? Seems like a silly way to pick products for your rig. Find a local shop and spend your money with them if you want to stimulate the local economy.


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post #1760 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 02:11 PM
gspup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
The cold issue is easily fixed with dry air in the form of an air dryer in the line. ARB's are used in Iceland and other cold climates with no issues as long as the air is dry. Semi trucks would have similar problems if not for the air dryer that they use.

Also, are the Eaton E lockers made where you live? Seems like a silly way to pick products for your rig. Find a local shop and spend your money with them if you want to stimulate the local economy.
I don't know much about the mechanics of ARB's so you could very well be correct. I haven't researched them because I've never wanted one after my personal experiences. Period.

Man...you guys are making too big of a deal about a simple statement I made. I never said 'I pick' products for my rig the way you described...I said I really like to support local business.The fact is I do use locals shops and can get Eaton lockers locally if I wanted to... at cost.

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post #1761 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 02:35 PM
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspup View Post
I don't know much about the mechanics of ARB's so you could very well be correct. I haven't researched them because I've never wanted one after my personal experiences. Period.

Man...you guys are making too big of a deal about a simple statement I made. I never said 'I pick' products for my rig the way you described...I said I really like to support locals business.The fact is I do use locals shops and can get Eaton lockers locally if I wanted to... at cost.
Very confusing... You had a bad experience with a product but didn't take a very easy step to fix it. Did you even call tech support?

You said it might be a different story if you lived in washington because ARB is local. ARB isn't really local, they are made in Australia and distributed in Washington for north america. You can't exactly walk into the warehouse in Renton and buy a locker.

I'm not sure where the E locker is made, but Eaton has manufacturing facilities all across the globe as they are a huge company.

I'm certain you can buy an ARB in colorado and you would be supporting the local economy the same if you were to buy an ARB, E-locker or whatever.


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post #1762 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 02:40 PM
gspup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Very confusing... You had a bad experience with a product but didn't take a very easy step to fix it. Did you even call tech support?

You said it might be a different story if you lived in washington because ARB is local. ARB isn't really local, they are made in Australia and distributed in Washington for north america. You can't exactly walk into the warehouse in Renton and buy a locker.

I'm not sure where the E locker is made, but Eaton has manufacturing facilities all across the globe as they are a huge company.

I'm certain you can buy an ARB in colorado and you would be supporting the local economy the same if you were to buy an ARB, E-locker or whatever.
Weren't my lockers to trouble shoot. Just have a bad taste in my mouth...you ever had that feeling with a company before ?

I'm finished derailing this thread.

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post #1763 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaTJ View Post
Wow...the G2 Rock Jock is really cheap. Compared to what it costs the build the D44 vs. the 60. I'm liking this idea more and more.

I'm also leaning to 4.88's over the 5.13's. I won't be towing anything and I have a pretty light LJ (compared to steel armor'd LJ's) and with the hopes of running 37's and 17'' bead locks, I don't think power will be an issue. I am at elevation tho and 75mph around here is normal.
I was surprised at how close the gap was between building the 44 and buying a 60 . Its what started this whole discussion for me .
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_craig View Post
Oh yeah! It just gets driven to church on Sundays and occasionally to the grocery store...
Love that picture , one of my favorites on the board .
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
The D30 E locker is a 4 pinon design and a good locker. Too bad they don't update the rest of the line. Still, you are not going to get the support you get from ARB from any other company.
Should I mention an Ox locker

Quote:
Originally Posted by gspup View Post
Personally I would get an E-locker if I ever do a selectable...I've seen ARB's not to mention stock air lockers do bad things when it freezing out.
If I lived in WA state that might be a different story as ARB is local.
Lot's of if's in this post but it's just my pennies worth.
See I had never heard of this so I learned something ... debate is good . However my dislike for cold will most likely keep me from having issues with freezing anything .
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
I've only seen issues with ARB's in cold when it's really cold like 0 degrees and below. Once the diff heats up with use, the issue goes away. Also, the issue is that it won't lock. I would rather have a locker not lock than have pieces of broken spider gears all over my diff. Those won't work regardless of the temperature.

Also it doesn't matter if ARB is local. They have telephones and take delivery of packages from UPS, Fedex, and USPS daily assuming you are in the rare minority of people that have an issue.
I think the freezing wont affect me because if its that cold I am not outside
Quote:
Originally Posted by gspup View Post
Freezing and below is what I'm speaking about specifically(really cold)...and the diffs don't warm up when your stuck and not moving. Not really trying to argue it's just happened to many times to me personally and getting out of the woods was not fun. No ARB for me...just my personal opinion man.

It does matter if ARB is local because I really like to support local businesses. Obviously they receive shipments from all freight companies.
Local is good and the returns to the community a business is based in are huge . In this case I want the best I can afford that isnt made in China .

Quote:
Originally Posted by IEcrawlerTJ01 View Post
ARB is not a company I would consider a "local business"
There world wide...
I look at them as local in that they have offices here in the states and if you call them they answer the phone .

Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
The cold issue is easily fixed with dry air in the form of an air dryer in the line. ARB's are used in Iceland and other cold climates with no issues as long as the air is dry. Semi trucks would have similar problems if not for the air dryer that they use.

Also, are the Eaton E lockers made where you live? Seems like a silly way to pick products for your rig. Find a local shop and spend your money with them if you want to stimulate the local economy.
The air drier is a good idea , I suppose a desiccant based setup would work?


Quote:
Originally Posted by gspup View Post
Weren't my lockers to trouble shoot. Just have a bad taste in my mouth...you ever had that feeling with a company before ?

I'm finished derailing this thread.
This thing has been off the tracks for a while , no worries !

With all that back and forth I can say with great confidence that I am going to go with 4.88s no matter the rear axle choice .

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post #1764 of 4128 Old 09-04-2013, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
My bias would be the stronger ARB design and spend the money now. You probably won't break the eaton on 35s however when you jump to 40s next year you'd probably want the extra peace of mind. When it comes to the internals I'd build it once and be done with it.

Of course I still want to know what track bar you are going to run in the back and plans for ride height and uptravel ( what you have now vs what you stand to gain)
Up travel will see some bumps and the track bar isnt supposed to be an issue . If doesnt fit I can make one now that I can thread tubing

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post #1765 of 4128 Old 09-06-2013, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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Savvy Springs are in the rear , and I should finish the front install tonight once my folks head home . Pics tonight .

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post #1766 of 4128 Old 09-06-2013, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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The Savvy 3" springs are just a hair taller on the counter than the OME 942 2.5 " springs.

This is the OME measurement .

And this is the Savvy measurement . So the overall gain is somewhere between 5/16" and 3/8" which is not quite the 1/2" I was hoping for .
The fronts netted the same gain , but they did have 11 coils vs the 9 coils of the OME .

The drivers side in this picture is an OME and the passenger side is Savvy .

And this is how I pull coil springs . I use the jack to compress the spring as much as possible , then I hand tighten coil compressors on the coil .

Then I lower the jack and allow the frame to rest on the jack stand . I have found that a light step onto the rotor will allow the coil to fall out .
Once the coil is out I use the press to compress the spring and remove the clamps . I then compress the new spring and put the clamps on it . Once the new spring is in place all you have left to do is jack up the new spring and remove the clamps . You may have to disconnect a sway bar or shocks depending on what lift you are running . With this method I can swap a spring out in about 20 minutes and that includes removing and reinstalling the tire .

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post #1767 of 4128 Old 09-06-2013, 09:43 PM
jforse
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How did the trailer turn out?

1997 TJ - Build in process.
2004 WJ Freedom Edition 4.7HO
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post #1768 of 4128 Old 09-06-2013, 09:55 PM
Hendrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jforse View Post
How did the trailer turn out?
It's headed to me Monday.


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post #1769 of 4128 Old 09-06-2013, 10:29 PM
clintrivera
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Nice looking springs! Sorry you didn't get the lift you were after. Want to trade for some 4" savvy springs?


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post #1770 of 4128 Old 09-06-2013, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jforse View Post
How did the trailer turn out?
It was scary to tow over 55 or so . I plan on figuring it out tomorrow , and it seems like the general consensus is not enough tongue weight . I have a truck rented , so its going West one way or the other on Monday
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix View Post
It's headed to me Monday.
Why do I get the feeling the trailer is getting sprayed blue ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Nice looking springs! Sorry you didn't get the lift you were after. Want to trade for some 4" savvy springs?
I think the lift will work just fine if I add a little more bump or MCE rear flares when they get released . The 4" is just to much lift for what I want to do . I have kicked around the idea of highlining at some point but with 35s I think the Savvy 3" springs and 1" body lift will just about right.

I was shocked at how you packed them, they looked brand new .Thanks again for the springs ...

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