Just another LJ build - Page 115 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Jeep Forums > Jeep Builds > Just another LJ build

ECGS Black Friday Sale!!6th Annual, Beat Your Wife to the Credit Card Sale!50 in light bar /A pillar mount less than 500 at JeepHut.c

Reply
Unread 09-02-2013, 10:23 AM   #1711
TrailJ
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 364
Ha /discussion it's gonna be a 60

TrailJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2013, 11:08 AM   #1712
OkLaHoMaTJ
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 596
An Iron Rock Jock 60 with an Eaton and no brakes for $2800...seems like a no brainer to me. I was under the impression the Rock Jocks were much more expensive.
__________________
My Thread - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/another-lj-rubicon-thread-1516486/
OkLaHoMaTJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2013, 11:59 AM   #1713
dayriesw
Web Wheeler
 
dayriesw's Avatar
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 5,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKimbo View Post
I figure in the scheme of things why go cheap? You will be happier with the new 60 so there isn't a reason to build up the 44 only to later get the 60 anyway. Maybe not a today purchase but a goal before next Moab rock wheeling. Go for it honey!!!
Here it is.... The boss said do it. Quoted so it can't be taken back. Discussion over.
__________________
Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 37s - the build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/i...ge-lj-1173119/

Jeep-Owner.com
LouisianaOffroad.com
dayriesw is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2013, 05:31 PM   #1714
G Beasley
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Eden, NC
Posts: 5,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKimbo View Post
I figure in the scheme of things why go cheap? You will be happier with the new 60 so there isn't a reason to build up the 44 only to later get the 60 anyway. Maybe not a today purchase but a goal before next Moab rock wheeling. Go for it honey!!!
Yes dear

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrailJ View Post
Ha /discussion it's gonna be a 60
So it seems
Quote:
Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaTJ View Post
An Iron Rock Jock 60 with an Eaton and no brakes for $2800...seems like a no brainer to me. I was under the impression the Rock Jocks were much more expensive.
Not sure why , but the G2s are much more reasonable . I plan on calling and asking some questions tomorrow .
Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
Here it is.... The boss said do it. Quoted so it can't be taken back. Discussion over.
She doesnt take stuff back and she knows me like no one else .
__________________
Free stickers and picture hosting at Jeep-Owner.com
G Beasley is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2013, 09:00 PM   #1715
aw12345
Web Wheeler
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario, Cali
Posts: 6,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Funny stuff here.

Yes my truck and trailer are my insurance for a REALLY bad day far from home. Just having to worry about making back to staging is a good feeling when you're running at the limits of your equipment. Beasley on the other hand needs to be running well within his rigs comfort zone.... being 1000's of miles from home.
Dana 44 and 35's is fine.
D60 and 35's is about as strong as you will ever need and will serve you well.
Longer wheelbase Jeeps with 37'[s properly geared drive every bit as good as Jeeps on 35's. For you the difference would be even worse gas milage but better wheelin ability. I love driving my put put Jeep on 37's, darn thing sucks gas like a alcoholic on steroids though. You going to stick 4.88's in the axle since you will be towing that fancy trailer all over gods creation?
__________________
My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2013, 09:46 PM   #1716
clintrivera
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Pacific, Washington
Posts: 2,620
I would stop with the D44 and 35 tires. Sure, you can drive fine with 37's but I'm not sure you would be excited to drive across the country with a LJ on 37's. You will also have to look long and hard at the rest of your drive train and suspension / steering as well since you are just moving weak points around.

A LJ on 35's is a perfect balance of drive to the trail, wheel, and drive home. A upgraded D44 is fine for anything shy of a blindfolded hammer down "bounce it until it makes it" driving style.

Take the cash you save and buy some gas and go on another adventure. There comes a point when you make a rig that you want and loose sight of the rig you need. That's the point you get to put a for sale sign on it and loose a ton of money and time in fabrication.
__________________
Build
clintrivera is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 09:40 AM   #1717
Hendrix
TJOTY 2013
 
Hendrix's Avatar
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Myers, Florida
Posts: 4,724
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera
There comes a point when you make a rig that you want and loose sight of the rig you need. That's the point you get to put a for sale sign on it and loose a ton of money and time in fabrication.
Quoted 4 truth brother!

Sent by telegram.
Hendrix is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 11:21 AM   #1718
dayriesw
Web Wheeler
 
dayriesw's Avatar
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 5,392
It is nice to actually hear that from you guys that actually do that cool stuff that we read about this and is something that I will keep in mind.
__________________
Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 37s - the build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/i...ge-lj-1173119/

Jeep-Owner.com
LouisianaOffroad.com
dayriesw is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 12:37 PM   #1719
aw12345
Web Wheeler
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario, Cali
Posts: 6,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
I would stop with the D44 and 35 tires. Sure, you can drive fine with 37's but I'm not sure you would be excited to drive across the country with a LJ on 37's. You will also have to look long and hard at the rest of your drive train and suspension / steering as well since you are just moving weak points around.

A LJ on 35's is a perfect balance of drive to the trail, wheel, and drive home. A upgraded D44 is fine for anything shy of a blindfolded hammer down "bounce it until it makes it" driving style.

Take the cash you save and buy some gas and go on another adventure. There comes a point when you make a rig that you want and loose sight of the rig you need. That's the point you get to put a for sale sign on it and loose a ton of money and time in fabrication.
D60 hangs less than 1" lower than a rubicon D44 and is a heck of a lot stronger. If you go that route a full floater axle would be the ticket, but then you run into the different wheel bolt patterns. Stuff like this is really a slippery slope Greg. The axle you have now is adequate for 35's sans the crappy locker. A good locker, a nice truss and some chromemolly axle shafts will do you pretty darn well also. Will you be able to break it sure if you try hard enough, but you aren't that kinda wheeler, use the rest of the money for upgrading the front axle
__________________
My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 01:51 PM   #1720
clintrivera
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Pacific, Washington
Posts: 2,620
If you are breaking an upgraded D44 (by upgraded I mean shafts and a better locker) you are certainly destroying the front D44. Not to mention drive shafts, steering components and armor. By the look of his rig, he's not playing that hard -and with a rig as nice as his, I wouldn't play that hard either.

I know lots of people poo poo the 1" difference between the D44 and D60, but there is only a 1" difference in clearance between a 33" and 35" tire. Also, for where I play, differential clearance is a big deal.
__________________
Build
clintrivera is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 04:50 PM   #1721
aw12345
Web Wheeler
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario, Cali
Posts: 6,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
If you are breaking an upgraded D44 (by upgraded I mean shafts and a better locker) you are certainly destroying the front D44. Not to mention drive shafts, steering components and armor. By the look of his rig, he's not playing that hard -and with a rig as nice as his, I wouldn't play that hard either.

I know lots of people poo poo the 1" difference between the D44 and D60, but there is only a 1" difference in clearance between a 33" and 35" tire. Also, for where I play, differential clearance is a big deal.
That being said on 37's my rig with a D60 up front and a 14 bolt in the rear has the same clearance as my other Jeep on 35's with a D44 and a D30.

Where Greg is at his stock axles with some upgrades would be fine, but then again it is his want and his money, we cannot argue with that
__________________
My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 06:44 PM   #1722
G Beasley
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Eden, NC
Posts: 5,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
Dana 44 and 35's is fine.
D60 and 35's is about as strong as you will ever need and will serve you well.
Longer wheelbase Jeeps with 37'[s properly geared drive every bit as good as Jeeps on 35's. For you the difference would be even worse gas milage but better wheelin ability. I love driving my put put Jeep on 37's, darn thing sucks gas like a alcoholic on steroids though. You going to stick 4.88's in the axle since you will be towing that fancy trailer all over gods creation?
Not sure on the 4.88s or 5.13s ... see below . And yes the trailer will be drug all over the country
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
I would stop with the D44 and 35 tires. Sure, you can drive fine with 37's but I'm not sure you would be excited to drive across the country with a LJ on 37's. You will also have to look long and hard at the rest of your drive train and suspension / steering as well since you are just moving weak points around.

A LJ on 35's is a perfect balance of drive to the trail, wheel, and drive home. A upgraded D44 is fine for anything shy of a blindfolded hammer down "bounce it until it makes it" driving style.

Take the cash you save and buy some gas and go on another adventure. There comes a point when you make a rig that you want and loose sight of the rig you need. That's the point you get to put a for sale sign on it and loose a ton of money and time in fabrication.
It is easy to overbuild , and I want to maintain a cross country driveable rig . I think 35s are it for me til the kids are bigger and we go to a tow rig . If it werent for the rear locker the numbers would sway me towards the 60 .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix View Post
Quoted 4 truth brother!

Sent by telegram.
I know , overbuilders anonymous has a chair waiting for me .

Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
It is nice to actually hear that from you guys that actually do that cool stuff that we read about this and is something that I will keep in mind.
Thats the great thing about the forum to me , real world knowledge is priceless .
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
If you are breaking an upgraded D44 (by upgraded I mean shafts and a better locker) you are certainly destroying the front D44. Not to mention drive shafts, steering components and armor. By the look of his rig, he's not playing that hard -and with a rig as nice as his, I wouldn't play that hard either.

I know lots of people poo poo the 1" difference between the D44 and D60, but there is only a 1" difference in clearance between a 33" and 35" tire. Also, for where I play, differential clearance is a big deal.
I am waiting on an email or call back on what the exact height difference is . I dont beat on my rig , I just like riding the trails and being off the beaten path so a 60 isnt necessary by any means . If its truly $1000 more and I am not losing clearance then I will most likely install one .

Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
That being said on 37's my rig with a D60 up front and a 14 bolt in the rear has the same clearance as my other Jeep on 35's with a D44 and a D30.

Where Greg is at his stock axles with some upgrades would be fine, but then again it is his want and his money, we cannot argue with that
You shaved your rear didnt you Art ?









I am leaning heavily towards the 60 . In my mind it makes sense , but I understand that most of y'all think I am nuts to run a 60 with 35s . I am still waiting on some info from ECGS and G2 before I commit to either option . While I am sorting out the rear the other big axle decision is ratio . 4.88s would turn 2588 rpms at 65 mph and with 5.13s it would be 2689 rpms @ 65 mph . I feel like the 5.13s would allow me to jump to 37s if I wanted to in the future , but I dont want to be wound up too high. The 4.10s I have now are 2149 rpms @ 65 mph and it is sluggish unless its on flat land . Gearing is one of the few mechanical jobs I will be paying someone else to do , so I really only want to do this once if possible .

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html This is the calculator I used , and while the 4.88s look "right" on paper I appreciate your real world experiences .
__________________
Free stickers and picture hosting at Jeep-Owner.com
G Beasley is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 06:48 PM   #1723
Hendrix
TJOTY 2013
 
Hendrix's Avatar
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Myers, Florida
Posts: 4,724
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
I am leaning heavily towards the 60 . In my mind it makes sense , but I understand that most of y'all think I am nuts to run a 60 with 35s . I am still waiting on some info from ECGS and G2 before I commit to either option . While I am sorting out the rear the other big axle decision is ratio . 4.88s would turn 2588 rpms at 65 mph and with 5.13s it would be 2689 rpms @ 65 mph . I feel like the 5.13s would allow me to jump to 37s if I wanted to in the future , but I dont want to be wound up too high. The 4.10s I have now are 2149 rpms @ 65 mph and it is sluggish unless its on flat land . Gearing is one of the few mechanical jobs I will be paying someone else to do , so I really only want to do this once if possible .

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html This is the calculator I used , and while the 4.88s look "right" on paper I appreciate your real world experiences .
What trans do you run?

The Flop had a nsg and 5:13 and felt rright at home at 75 mph with 37s
Hendrix is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 06:50 PM   #1724
Jankoid
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albemarle, NC
Posts: 4,870
I have 4.88s and the 6 speed, and have run both 35s and 37s with that gearing. 4.88s work well with the 37s, I never feel like it is under-geared. The transmission shifts great with those gears and that size tire and has plenty of power. The 4.88s work great with the 35s, but turns high rpms at highway speeds. I dont think I would like 5.13s with 35s, would probably be geared too low for my liking on road, but I have no personal experience with that ratio yet. I don't think you can go wrong with either ratio, but I would stick to 4.88s to keep the rpms a little lower on the highway if you are staying with 35s for a while.
Jankoid is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 07:21 PM   #1725
aw12345
Web Wheeler
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario, Cali
Posts: 6,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
Not sure on the 4.88s or 5.13s ... see below . And yes the trailer will be drug all over the country
It is easy to overbuild , and I want to maintain a cross country driveable rig . I think 35s are it for me til the kids are bigger and we go to a tow rig . If it werent for the rear locker the numbers would sway me towards the 60 .

I know , overbuilders anonymous has a chair waiting for me .


Thats the great thing about the forum to me , real world knowledge is priceless .

I am waiting on an email or call back on what the exact height difference is . I dont beat on my rig , I just like riding the trails and being off the beaten path so a 60 isnt necessary by any means . If its truly $1000 more and I am not losing clearance then I will most likely install one .


You shaved your rear didnt you Art ?









I am leaning heavily towards the 60 . In my mind it makes sense , but I understand that most of y'all think I am nuts to run a 60 with 35s . I am still waiting on some info from ECGS and G2 before I commit to either option . While I am sorting out the rear the other big axle decision is ratio . 4.88s would turn 2588 rpms at 65 mph and with 5.13s it would be 2689 rpms @ 65 mph . I feel like the 5.13s would allow me to jump to 37s if I wanted to in the future , but I dont want to be wound up too high. The 4.10s I have now are 2149 rpms @ 65 mph and it is sluggish unless its on flat land . Gearing is one of the few mechanical jobs I will be paying someone else to do , so I really only want to do this once if possible .

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html This is the calculator I used , and while the 4.88s look "right" on paper I appreciate your real world experiences .
Nope the 14 bolt is still a true 14 bolt it's been ground down by me and some rocks and hangs 1/4" lower than myD44 out of an LJ that resides under my lil Jeep

Here are the measurements did it for fun and found it quite revealing

35" tires versus 37" tires, all at 30 psi. Stock axles versus versus D60 HP and 14 bolt. Which is which? Where is the diff clearance advantage?









Y'all tell me where the big advantage of weaker axles with less gearing choices is?
I love the grimm jeepers gearing calculator and 4.88 gears with 35's are sweet especially you want to pull a trailer, if it wasn't for that 4.56 would have been a lil better for the highway
__________________
My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Tags
crappy paint , jana k4 , lj , needs to go wheeling , old man emu , rubicon unlimited , savvy offroad

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.