I don't support the d60 idea at all, no matter how many times you try to convince yourself you need it.
How much is my wife paying you to dissuade me from the 60 love
I'm pretty sure a RJ60 actually has better clearance than a 44, similar to a d35.
From all that I have read its about the same , though I am still looking for an actual comparison . Maybe it will end up being me that puts the before and after pictures out there .
What if you add it all up and the money is the same or within a couple hundred? Why NOT do it?
The Dana 60 is $1000 more than I would spend spend on the 44 . So its more but in the scheme of things not terrible . And the 44 with an air locker would be awesome in the back of my 2 door cherokee ...
As long as clearance and travel are equal (?) why not?
Uptravel will be impacted a little and sometimes the axle hits the gas tank . I have a Savvy GTS and if that doesnt clear I can move it back to the rear crossmember .
Within a couple hundred...? We all know what that means.
I say no 60 either. I have close personal friends that run extreme trails on rubi 44's w/ cromos and 37's with no breakage in back. not needed. **** Nate runs a D35 on 35's. End of discussion.
It really comes down to peace of mind and not wanting to sink too much money into the 44 .
Haha, I don't know whether or not to feel proud... or embarrassed that my D35 lives for some reason. I'm not the ONLY m-fer running a D35 with 35's!
Beasley IS the only m-fer I know running two car seats, the wifey and the ambition to wheel 1000's of miles from home. I support the D44 build up also... my only thing is if the money is the same, why not?
Like I posted up top , its $1000 more but I dont think I could ever break it and thats worth the money even knowing I most likely wouldnt break the 44 if
I swapped in a different rear locker .
Are they? Will a 60 be the same or worse than a d44 in any other area? PRice bEing equal what are clearance, travel etc?
Clearance seems to be the same , uptravel is supposed to be an inch less and the cost is $1000 more .
We need some 60 owners to chime in on this!
That would be great , real world experience is much appreciated and I am not discounting the guys running 37s on their 44s . In the end it will come down to money and my gut feeling based on what I can read and learn .
Did anyone catch this comment I made? It doesn't matter if he runs a Jana44, RJ60 or a rockwell in the rear, if he doesn't swap out that front axle he has done nothing to alleviate his weak point. He'll be breaking u joints and stub shafts long before he blows up a jana44. I have yet to see an exact price for a bolt in RJ60, but i'm sure it does cost more and it is an unnecessary upgrade.
My front is sleeved and soon to be gusseted . The ball joints are upgraded and I am going to replace the superiors with RCV's . I think that setup would work well with a 60 in the rear .
For discussion sake although I am not forming any conclusions on price, a RJ60 rear when I got quotes is roughly $5000 without brackets so looking at $6k at the most for brackets, shipping etc. The front was about $6,200 with ARB and making your own steering.
I'm more concern about packaging and him going up in spring height however we would need some measurements to validate that concern. I know Blaine can put 6" up in the rear with 4" springs. However that's not using the stock mounts and its probably not a bolt on solution. I estimate maybe 5" with a 3" and lots of work. I am just guessing though.
Please don't take any offense. I think a RJ60 would be awesome given you are up for the challenge.
A G2 Iron Rock Jock with 35 splines and an Eaton locker is $2800 minus the brakes . I have read that G2 had some issues with 44s , but the 60s seem to be well received .
Originally Posted by yellow_snocone
I'd build up the 44 and put your thoughts on how your going to make the front indestructible as the rear will be. With your wheeling style the upgraded 44 will be of no worry.
RCV's , C gussets and a truss on the front . Add that to a 60 rear and the weak link will be me
I agree. With your wheelin style Greg I'd just keep the 44. I have stock gears and locker in mine and haven't had any issues and I drove far to wheel as well.
Truss it, new gears an ARB and chromoly shafts and your golden. I find it hard to believe a 60 will be the same price
Not the same price , its $1000 more .
Actually you want a stronger rear axle. The rear axle see alot more load than the front. Hence the reason that many many jeeps survive on lp and hp Dana 30's
And fab 9 is a waste of time and money unless your racing or competing. The ground clearance gain is minimal and the cost is retarded assuming you run a Tru hi-9. Rock jock>fab9 anyday for trail rig
You will not have to switch wheels. Currie sell that axle with the 5on4.5 pattern and is only 1" wider than stock. See link below
Jana 44 just makes things over complicated
Stick with a 30spline arb in your 44 or go RJ60
Your probably looking at right around $4,000 shipped for a fully bolt in RJ with arb. That's with explorer disk brakes and matching 5on4.5 bolt pattern and all the Tj lj brackets
And the uptravel issue is non existent. With either the 5link or true 4 link With 4" springs,Blaine sets them up outboarded with 11" or 12" travel shocks and gets 7up 5down out of them whether it be a 60 or 44
And I'm not just reading and reposting things I have read on the Internet. These are fact and things that I have personally done. I am good friends with Blaine and worked for him in the past and this is how he sets up rigs
Thats good to read , and conveniently enough I have the outboard stuff setting at the house .
No ****, really? Is that why you never see people running d60s in the front with d35s in the rear?
Work on your reading comprehension. I am very well aware the rear needs to be stronger than the front. My point was that he doesn't need a 60 rear when the lp44 front is gonna break before the 44 rear. Upgrading the rear is pointless if he doesnt upgrade the front to match, hence my point about a false sense of security.
I wouldn't bother with the Jana kit either (as I have stated the other 10 times this subject had come up in this thread). I run a d44 with a Detroit and 30 spline chromos with a heavy foot and can't break it on 35s, but Greg is convinced he'll break it like a stock d35 with a light foot on 35s for some reason.
No I think with a different rear locker and shafts the 44 will hold up fine for me . The whole reasoning process for me is that for $1000 more theres no way I am breaking anything in the rear and my driveshaft will be farther from harms way ... it got a lot of pinstriping on the last trip . Thats not enough to justify the cost , but it is a nice added bonus .
Not really. Ever climbed a ledge before and had the front wheels get light and hop once or twice with all the weight on the rear???
It's also not a false sense of security if you have some common sense and still know that you have a the same front axle that you did regardless of what rear you have under it
Once again,it does matter. As he is alleviating one more weak point in his system that he would have otherwise had. front axle on 35's with chromo's is a very ample axle and depending on the situation he may or may not break the front before the rear 44
My reading comprehension is fine.
Have some manners or gtfo if you are gonna be stupid about it. I don't mind arguing points back and forth on the forum at times. But really. Your not a little school girl anymore. Grow up
Also for everyone else reading this
Many of you know that a built 30/44 or 44/44 combo on 35's is a very ample and most often proved to be a very reliable set up
But if you were drivin cross country 1,000s of miles round trip with your family, fully loaded with a trailer behind you. Would you want that extra bit of security. Even if it is only in the REAR and its only a couple extra dollars? IMO that would give me some piece of mind knowing that I will have a much stronger REAR axle and that I most likely won't get stranded with my family because of my REAR axle
Scenario: You build the 44 to the max(no Jana kit). Drop a bunch of money in it. you go on vacation. You get out to the middle of nowhere co,or ca or Utah or wherever and you happen to break that rear 44. How much money are you
Now going to spend on an already costly trip to fix that axle that you sunk $1500 in when the 60 was only a $1000 difference (just estimating prices)
You then have to pay for: Recovery from where you are? Maybe a tow truck? A shop to stop what there doing and fix your rig? Price of parts and also possibly expedited shipping? Cost of the hassle?plus ruined costly vacation?
Seems like a no brainer for me if I were building and wheeling the type of trips you have done and will continue to do
This is my opinion on the topic at hand.
Hope this helps
I think the travel part of it is really what has me leaning towards the 60 more than anything . Things break , but I really hate breakage on a trip .
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. Running a rubi44 in the front and a RJ60 in the rear just makes no sense to me. I've seen built lp30s break ring gears, built hp30s and rubi44s break u joints, stubs, and even once a ring gear (hp30 in a JKU though), and built waggy 44s break u joints and shafts. I've never seen a broken d44 rear though . Wheeling here on the east coast involves a lot of climbing, wheel speed, and wheel hopping. Every time I've seen a rig on 35s break it was the front axle that went, not the rear. Not saying he can't break the rear, but I think it is borderline paranoia to put a 60 in the rear for fear of breakage but not address the front. I don't consider $1000+ additional for the 60 to be only a few extra dollars though. I'm all for overbuilding though, so if money isn't an issue, by all means build it big. The point of what it'll cost to fix a major trail breakage is valid, but the chance of that happening is extremely small. If spending $1000 on the 1 in a 1000 chance that it'll save you $1500 and some trouble is worth it to you, do it. I mean that sincerely, and only Greg can decide that for himself. The 44 is still way more than good enough for him in my opinion and experience.
Tell us again how you've wheeled with Blaine, maybe that'll change my mind.
Gotta get in my school girl remarks somewhere, they are just jokes, don't take them too seriously. I don't, it's just the internet after all.
Paranoia would be wrapping the 60 in tinfoil like my hat ... wait thats a great idea
Upgrade the rear, you don't want a $3k, $4k etc 44 at the end of he day. Also, it's been posted several times the rear sees WAY more stress than the front. Sell the current axle as payment towards the new.
Agreed , for $1000 out of pocket from either ECGS or G2 it seems like a long term upgrade .
I went from a Dana 35, to a swapped in Super 35, to a Rubi 44 (then dropped too much coin into the Rubi), then finally built a Fab 9. I only use 37"s, but my axles are now built to handle 40"s at a competition level. The peace of mind is unlike any I ever had on the trail.
This is what I dont want to do , I would rather upgrade once instead of twice like I am going to do with the front axle shafts .
Also, you can build a fab 9 for roughly the same price as an RJ60 if you are creative. Good luck either way, it's all about getting on the trails, and you certainly do that!
Thanks , the whole reason for the LJ is to get me and the family out on the trails .
A lp 9 that you speak of compared to a hp jock
If anyone has priced a Tru hi-9 it's purely stupid expensive and is not comparable to a Jock in price
I am not Garza rich
We shall agree to disagree. As we have many times before
Its the internet , once were on the trail none of this matters.
I never understand why these axle conversations get so heated
We all love our Jeeps and how they work , I am thankful to be a part of such a passionate community .
Just get Spidertrax 4340 Pro-Series housings. 40 spline 300M with a 10" gearworks third for the rear and true Hi-9 up front. Anything else is not going to work
, then give them to me and I'll swap my axles into your Jeep free of charge....
Did you see where I posted that I am not Garza rich .
Serious biznass! Dynatrac now has a bolt in D80, it's the obvious choice.....
Dana 80s are huge , I had to rebuild the one in my old Dodge . You would need 42 plus tires to even remotely justify it though it would be bullet proof
Why stop there? Just throw a Rockwell in there!
No rockwells for me
Now were talking...
You are an enabler , though I have mentioned that before .
So I'm stupid? Lol
Nope not at all , just Garza rich
Can we just copy and paste this **** to pirate ?
Nope , I like that theres no mention of blenders , bleach and shotguns in this fairly civil Dana 60 debate