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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wG2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ Ch

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Unread 08-31-2013, 07:19 AM   #1681
jermeyg
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For discussion sake although I am not forming any conclusions on price, a RJ60 rear when I got quotes is roughly $5000 without brackets so looking at $6k at the most for brackets, shipping etc. The front was about $6,200 with ARB and making your own steering.

I'm more concern about packaging and him going up in spring height however we would need some measurements to validate that concern. I know Blaine can put 6" up in the rear with 4" springs. However that's not using the stock mounts and its probably not a bolt on solution. I estimate maybe 5" with a 3" and lots of work. I am just guessing though.

Please don't take any offense. I think a RJ60 would be awesome given you are up for the challenge.

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Unread 08-31-2013, 08:50 AM   #1682
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I'd build up the 44 and put your thoughts on how your going to make the front indestructible as the rear will be. With your wheeling style the upgraded 44 will be of no worry.
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Unread 08-31-2013, 10:25 AM   #1683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow_snocone
I'd build up the 44 and put your thoughts on how your going to make the front indestructible as the rear will be. With your wheeling style the upgraded 44 will be of no worry.
I agree. With your wheelin style Greg I'd just keep the 44. I have stock gears and locker in mine and haven't had any issues and I drove far to wheel as well.

Truss it, new gears an ARB and chromoly shafts and your golden. I find it hard to believe a 60 will be the same price
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Unread 08-31-2013, 12:48 PM   #1684
IEcrawlerTJ01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid
You know my opinion on this subject as we have beat it to death already.

If you had seen how hard I've been beating on my rubi 44s since putting the Detroit in the rear you wouldn't even consider upgrading the gear set. I see absolutely no reason to put a stronger rear axle in the rear if you are not going bigger.

Also, I wouldn't want a rear axle that is significantly stronger than the front. That's just a false sense of security you are creating for yourself.

If you just want peace of mind do the Jana kit. With a JK gear set, ARB locker, and 35 spline shafts, you will never break that rear axle on 35s, trust me.

Oh, and fab 9 > RJ60
Actually you want a stronger rear axle. The rear axle see alot more load than the front. Hence the reason that many many jeeps survive on lp and hp Dana 30's

And fab 9 is a waste of time and money unless your racing or competing. The ground clearance gain is minimal and the cost is retarded assuming you run a Tru hi-9. Rock jock>fab9 anyday for trail rig

Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg
So many good points on here! Maybe i can ard another? While I think a RJ60 is awesome I think it's a good idea to consider the disadvantages of having one especially with your anticipated lift height. How much uptravel are you willing to work in there with a RJ60? Will you stay 5-linked or move to a 4-link? Will you be willing to switch beadlocks in the rear? Are you comfortable with wider rear end?
You will not have to switch wheels. Currie sell that axle with the 5on4.5 pattern and is only 1" wider than stock. See link below

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid

Did anyone catch this comment I made? It doesn't matter if he runs a Jana44, RJ60 or a rockwell in the rear, if he doesn't swap out that front axle he has done nothing to alleviate his weak point. He'll be breaking u joints and stub shafts long before he blows up a jana44. I have yet to see an exact price for a bolt in RJ60, but i'm sure it does cost more and it is an unnecessary upgrade.
Jana 44 just makes things over complicated

Stick with a 30spline arb in your 44 or go RJ60
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg
For discussion sake although I am not forming any conclusions on price, a RJ60 rear when I got quotes is roughly $5000 without brackets so looking at $6k at the most for brackets, shipping etc. The front was about $6,200 with ARB and making your own steering.

I'm more concern about packaging and him going up in spring height however we would need some measurements to validate that concern. I know Blaine can put 6" up in the rear with 4" springs. However that's not using the stock mounts and its probably not a bolt on solution. I estimate maybe 5" with a 3" and lots of work. I am just guessing though.

Please don't take any offense. I think a RJ60 would be awesome given you are up for the challenge.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...61&p=2332.0000

Your probably looking at right around $4,000 shipped for a fully bolt in RJ with arb. That's with explorer disk brakes and matching 5on4.5 bolt pattern and all the Tj lj brackets

And the uptravel issue is non existent. With either the 5link or true 4 link With 4" springs,Blaine sets them up outboarded with 11" or 12" travel shocks and gets 7up 5down out of them whether it be a 60 or 44

And I'm not just reading and reposting things I have read on the Internet. These are fact and things that I have personally done. I am good friends with Blaine and worked for him in the past and this is how he sets up rigs
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Unread 08-31-2013, 01:02 PM   #1685
Jankoid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IEcrawlerTJ01 View Post

Actually you want a stronger rear axle. The rear axle see alot more load than the front. Hence the reason that many many jeeps survive on lp and hp Dana 30's
No ****, really? Is that why you never see people running d60s in the front with d35s in the rear? Work on your reading comprehension. I am very well aware the rear needs to be stronger than the front. My point was that he doesn't need a 60 rear when the lp44 front is gonna break before the 44 rear. Upgrading the rear is pointless if he doesnt upgrade the front to match, hence my point about a false sense of security.

I wouldn't bother with the Jana kit either (as I have stated the other 10 times this subject had come up in this thread). I run a d44 with a Detroit and 30 spline chromos with a heavy foot and can't break it on 35s, but Greg is convinced he'll break it like a stock d35 with a light foot on 35s for some reason.
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Unread 08-31-2013, 02:28 PM   #1686
IEcrawlerTJ01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid
Also, I wouldn't want a rear axle that is significantly stronger than the front. That's just a false sense of security you are creating for yourself.
Not really. Ever climbed a ledge before and had the front wheels get light and hop once or twice with all the weight on the rear???

It's also not a false sense of security if you have some common sense and still know that you have a the same front axle that you did regardless of what rear you have under it
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid

Did anyone catch this comment I made? It doesn't matter if he runs a Jana44, RJ60 or a rockwell in the rear, if he doesn't swap out that front axle he has done nothing to alleviate his weak point. He'll be breaking u joints and stub shafts long before he blows up a jana44. I have yet to see an exact price for a bolt in RJ60, but i'm sure it does cost more and it is an unnecessary upgrade.
Once again,it does matter. As he is alleviating one more weak point in his system that he would have otherwise had. front axle on 35's with chromo's is a very ample axle and depending on the situation he may or may not break the front before the rear 44

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid

No ****, really? Is that why you never see people running d60s in the front with d35s in the rear? Work on your reading comprehension. I am very well aware the rear needs to be stronger than the front. My point was that he doesn't need a 60 rear when the lp44 front is gonna break before the 44 rear. Upgrading the rear is pointless if he doesnt upgrade the front to match, hence my point about a false sense of security.
My reading comprehension is fine.

Have some manners or gtfo if you are gonna be stupid about it. I don't mind arguing points back and forth on the forum at times. But really. Your not a little school girl anymore. Grow up


Also for everyone else reading this

Many of you know that a built 30/44 or 44/44 combo on 35's is a very ample and most often proved to be a very reliable set up


But if you were drivin cross country 1,000s of miles round trip with your family, fully loaded with a trailer behind you. Would you want that extra bit of security. Even if it is only in the REAR and its only a couple extra dollars? IMO that would give me some piece of mind knowing that I will have a much stronger REAR axle and that I most likely won't get stranded with my family because of my REAR axle

Scenario: You build the 44 to the max(no Jana kit). Drop a bunch of money in it. you go on vacation. You get out to the middle of nowhere co,or ca or Utah or wherever and you happen to break that rear 44. How much money are you
Now going to spend on an already costly trip to fix that axle that you sunk $1500 in when the 60 was only a $1000 difference (just estimating prices)

You then have to pay for: Recovery from where you are? Maybe a tow truck? A shop to stop what there doing and fix your rig? Price of parts and also possibly expedited shipping? Cost of the hassle?plus ruined costly vacation?

Seems like a no brainer for me if I were building and wheeling the type of trips you have done and will continue to do

This is my opinion on the topic at hand.

Hope this helps
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Unread 08-31-2013, 03:25 PM   #1687
Jankoid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IEcrawlerTJ01 View Post
Not really. Ever climbed a ledge before and had the front wheels get light and hop once or twice with all the weight on the rear???

It's also not a false sense of security if you have some common sense and still know that you have a the same front axle that you did regardless of what rear you have under it

Once again,it does matter. As he is alleviating one more weak point in his system that he would have otherwise had. front axle on 35's with chromo's is a very ample axle and depending on the situation he may or may not break the front before the rear 44

Have some manners or gtfo if you are gonna be stupid about it. I don't mind arguing points back and forth on the forum at times. But really. Your not a little school girl anymore. Grow up

Also for everyone else reading this

Many of you know that a built 30/44 or 44/44 combo on 35's is a very ample and most often proved to be a very reliable set up

But if you were drivin cross country 1,000s of miles round trip with your family, fully loaded with a trailer behind you. Would you want that extra bit of security. Even if it is only in the REAR and its only a couple extra dollars? IMO that would give me some piece of mind knowing that I will have a much stronger REAR axle and that I most likely won't get stranded with my family because of my REAR axle

Scenario: You build the 44 to the max(no Jana kit). Drop a bunch of money in it. you go on vacation. You get out to the middle of nowhere co,or ca or Utah or wherever and you happen to break that rear 44. How much money are you
Now going to spend on an already costly trip to fix that axle that you sunk $1500 in when the 60 was only a $1000 difference (just estimating prices)

You then have to pay for: Recovery from where you are? Maybe a tow truck? A shop to stop what there doing and fix your rig? Price of parts and also possibly expedited shipping? Cost of the hassle?plus ruined costly vacation?

Seems like a no brainer for me if I were building and wheeling the type of trips you have done and will continue to do

This is my opinion on the topic at hand.

Hope this helps
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. Running a rubi44 in the front and a RJ60 in the rear just makes no sense to me. I've seen built lp30s break ring gears, built hp30s and rubi44s break u joints, stubs, and even once a ring gear (hp30 in a JKU though), and built waggy 44s break u joints and shafts. I've never seen a broken d44 rear though . Wheeling here on the east coast involves a lot of climbing, wheel speed, and wheel hopping. Every time I've seen a rig on 35s break it was the front axle that went, not the rear. Not saying he can't break the rear, but I think it is borderline paranoia to put a 60 in the rear for fear of breakage but not address the front. I don't consider $1000+ additional for the 60 to be only a few extra dollars though. I'm all for overbuilding though, so if money isn't an issue, by all means build it big. The point of what it'll cost to fix a major trail breakage is valid, but the chance of that happening is extremely small. If spending $1000 on the 1 in a 1000 chance that it'll save you $1500 and some trouble is worth it to you, do it. I mean that sincerely, and only Greg can decide that for himself. The 44 is still way more than good enough for him in my opinion and experience.

Tell us again how you've wheeled with Blaine, maybe that'll change my mind. Gotta get in my school girl remarks somewhere, they are just jokes, don't take them too seriously. I don't, it's just the internet after all.
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Unread 08-31-2013, 05:50 PM   #1688
REDLYNER
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Upgrade the rear, you don't want a $3k, $4k etc 44 at the end of he day. Also, it's been posted several times the rear sees WAY more stress than the front. Sell the current axle as payment towards the new.

I went from a Dana 35, to a swapped in Super 35, to a Rubi 44 (then dropped too much coin into the Rubi), then finally built a Fab 9. I only use 37"s, but my axles are now built to handle 40"s at a competition level. The peace of mind is unlike any I ever had on the trail.

Also, you can build a fab 9 for roughly the same price as an RJ60 if you are creative. Good luck either way, it's all about getting on the trails, and you certainly do that!


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Unread 08-31-2013, 05:56 PM   #1689
IEcrawlerTJ01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDLYNER

Also, you can build a fab 9 for roughly the same price as an RJ60 if you are creative. Good luck either way, it's all about getting on the trails, and you certainly do that!

A lp 9 that you speak of compared to a hp jock

If anyone has priced a Tru hi-9 it's purely stupid expensive and is not comparable to a Jock in price
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Unread 08-31-2013, 05:57 PM   #1690
IEcrawlerTJ01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. Running a rubi44 in the front and a RJ60 in the rear just makes no sense to me. I've seen built lp30s break ring gears, built hp30s and rubi44s break u joints, stubs, and even once a ring gear (hp30 in a JKU though), and built waggy 44s break u joints and shafts. I've never seen a broken d44 rear though . Wheeling here on the east coast involves a lot of climbing, wheel speed, and wheel hopping. Every time I've seen a rig on 35s break it was the front axle that went, not the rear. Not saying he can't break the rear, but I think it is borderline paranoia to put a 60 in the rear for fear of breakage but not address the front. I don't consider $1000+ additional for the 60 to be only a few extra dollars though. I'm all for overbuilding though, so if money isn't an issue, by all means build it big. The point of what it'll cost to fix a major trail breakage is valid, but the chance of that happening is extremely small. If spending $1000 on the 1 in a 1000 chance that it'll save you $1500 and some trouble is worth it to you, do it. I mean that sincerely, and only Greg can decide that for himself. The 44 is still way more than good enough for him in my opinion and experience.

Tell us again how you've wheeled with Blaine, maybe that'll change my mind. Gotta get in my school girl remarks somewhere, they are just jokes, don't take them too seriously. I don't, it's just the internet after all.
We shall agree to disagree. As we have many times before
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Unread 08-31-2013, 06:06 PM   #1691
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I never understand why these axle conversations get so heated
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Unread 08-31-2013, 06:19 PM   #1692
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Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
I never understand why these axle conversations get so heated
lol

Just get Spidertrax 4340 Pro-Series housings. 40 spline 300M with a 10" gearworks third for the rear and true Hi-9 up front. Anything else is not going to work

















































Oh, then give them to me and I'll swap my axles into your Jeep free of charge....
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Unread 08-31-2013, 06:20 PM   #1693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
I never understand why these axle conversations get so heated
Serious biznass! Dynatrac now has a bolt in D80, it's the obvious choice.....
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Unread 08-31-2013, 06:33 PM   #1694
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Serious biznass! Dynatrac now has a bolt in D80, it's the obvious choice.....
Why stop there? Just throw a Rockwell in there!
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Unread 08-31-2013, 08:49 PM   #1695
gst95dsm
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Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
Why stop there? Just throw a Rockwell in there!
Now were talking...
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