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2003-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Headlight Dark Background wiOPTIC ARMOR WINDOWS all sale now !!!!!!!!1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Wheel Bearing & Hub Asse

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Unread 08-05-2013, 10:06 AM   #1576
jermeyg
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Don't be such a tease! hope all is well and call me if you need any help!

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Unread 08-07-2013, 05:29 PM   #1577
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
I have been tied up with work , few pics below .
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
Don't be such a tease! hope all is well and call me if you need any help!
I will , and now that your home I will ship the ball joint tool out this weekend .





The tower and shock mounts are from Barnes . I am still looking at coil spring mount relocation options ... theres a lot of choices out there . And I havent ruled out moving the stock mount , though I dont know if I have the patience to remove it in one piece
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Unread 08-07-2013, 05:45 PM   #1578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
And I havent ruled out moving the stock mount , though I dont know if I have the patience to remove it in one piece
You don't.

Nice towers.
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Unread 08-07-2013, 05:57 PM   #1579
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
. And I havent ruled out moving the stock mount , though I dont know if I have the patience to remove it in one piece
I thought the same, it's surprisingly easy though. I'd at least give it a shot before spending any money. That barnes stuff is just like the poly stuff, just half the price! Good call.
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Unread 08-07-2013, 06:06 PM   #1580
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I would just cut the buckets off and make a new bracket to hold them to the frame. I found it easiest to just cut the outside and hammer the buckets back and forth a few times to break them off the inside, went very quickly actually.
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Unread 08-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #1581
jermeyg
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G, thanks for sending me the ball joint tool. Interestingly I have about 30,000 miles over about 3 years on my XFR balljoints without issues that I know of. Must have gotten a good set before they tanked.

I wouldn't say the Barnes brackets are equivalent to the poly ones, at least till I see a profile picture of the bracket. Poly's bracket is designed such that the mouting point actually tips away from the frame. This allows you to keep some of the residual frame (top and bottom) when you notch as well as allow you to run up to a 2.5" diameter shock without rubbing under articulation. The lower shock mount on poly's is made to fit inside the lower control arm brackets which allows you to adjust the shock length. In additional, they also include a set of hardware as well. Now maybe Barnes has all of these things and I could be old school here. I am looking forward to seeing how well they fit and will gladly buy a set if they work equivalently to Polys.

At the end of the day its going to be a fine balance as to how much of tilt needs to be made to get the shocks away from the tire and the bottom edge of the bracket. When you do get it figured out please post up some info on how much of a notch is needed on the top and bottom of the frame.

When I tackled my outboard I commited myself to pulling the tank and also unbolting all of the body mounts minus the ones under the door. I remove the ones under the grill and was able to tilt the tub up far enough so that I could weld the back/top edge of the shock bracket to the frame. This removed the extra step of creating a slit in the shock bracket to weld into the top of the frame. With the extra room you can easily cut out your stock spring perches in one piece and reuse them. Keep in mind that now would also be a good time to move your trackbar bracket to the bottom of the frame so you can outboard easier and attackh the track bar mount to the back of the upper shock bracket. I have a couple pictures in my thread so you can get some ideas. Anyways thats enough $0.02 from me
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Unread 08-07-2013, 09:50 PM   #1582
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
G, thanks for sending me the ball joint tool. Interestingly I have about 30,000 miles over about 3 years on my XFR balljoints without issues that I know of. Must have gotten a good set before they tanked.

I wouldn't say the Barnes brackets are equivalent to the poly ones, at least till I see a profile picture of the bracket. Poly's bracket is designed such that the mouting point actually tips away from the frame. This allows you to keep some of the residual frame (top and bottom) when you notch as well as allow you to run up to a 2.5" diameter shock without rubbing under articulation. The lower shock mount on poly's is made to fit inside the lower control arm brackets which allows you to adjust the shock length. In additional, they also include a set of hardware as well. Now maybe Barnes has all of these things and I could be old school here. I am looking forward to seeing how well they fit and will gladly buy a set if they work equivalently to Polys.

At the end of the day its going to be a fine balance as to how much of tilt needs to be made to get the shocks away from the tire and the bottom edge of the bracket. When you do get it figured out please post up some info on how much of a notch is needed on the top and bottom of the frame.

When I tackled my outboard I commited myself to pulling the tank and also unbolting all of the body mounts minus the ones under the door. I remove the ones under the grill and was able to tilt the tub up far enough so that I could weld the back/top edge of the shock bracket to the frame. This removed the extra step of creating a slit in the shock bracket to weld into the top of the frame. With the extra room you can easily cut out your stock spring perches in one piece and reuse them. Keep in mind that now would also be a good time to move your trackbar bracket to the bottom of the frame so you can outboard easier and attackh the track bar mount to the back of the upper shock bracket. I have a couple pictures in my thread so you can get some ideas. Anyways thats enough $0.02 from me
Ok maybe it's not identical, but you can get as much tip out as you need just by notching the top of the frame a little less than the lower, and IMO the fitment of the lower shock mounts was terrible, they are cut at 0 degrees and the lower control arm bracket is at 10 I think. So the first thing I had to do was ruin that nice laser cut edge. I know I can't ***** about somewhat universal parts.... but I failed to see the value in the poly stuff. The Barnes stuff is $105 + hardware cost..... poly is $250. That's a little insane and I feel like I way over payed for some Synergy stickers.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 05:55 AM   #1583
jermeyg
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I think you might have things a little backwards here. Stock lower control arm brackets are about. 3 degree whereas most 4 link brackets ascribe to 10 degrees which encourages you to replace your lowers to a matching 10 degrees. The kick in the pants is can one really notice the difference? My humble opinion is no.

If I had to do things over again I would use Genright 4 link brackets which would allow you to utilize the stock lower control arm brackets. This would allow you to slip the poly lower brackets right between the control arm bracket and adjust to perpendicular to the control arm.

I agree that it's expensive and an alternate solution with equivalent results would be nice.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 06:38 AM   #1584
AngryTJ
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I went with the Barnes towers as well G...good purchase and with your fab skills they will work out just fine
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Unread 08-08-2013, 08:52 AM   #1585
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
I think you might have things a little backwards here. Stock lower control arm brackets are about. 3 degree whereas most 4 link brackets ascribe to 10 degrees which encourages you to replace your lowers to a matching 10 degrees. The kick in the pants is can one really notice the difference? My humble opinion is no.

If I had to do things over again I would use Genright 4 link brackets which would allow you to utilize the stock lower control arm brackets. This would allow you to slip the poly lower brackets right between the control arm bracket and adjust to perpendicular to the control arm.

I agree that it's expensive and an alternate solution with equivalent results would be nice.
Ok it's actually 6 degrees. I just measured it! If they're supposed to fit in between the bracket.... they should be cut right!! Damnit! I'm kidding now (I did actually measure it though )..... but still think they're a rip.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 01:27 PM   #1586
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
I thought the same, it's surprisingly easy though. I'd at least give it a shot before spending any money. That barnes stuff is just like the poly stuff, just half the price! Good call.
I am going to try and be patient while removing the upper coil spring mounts , you and Mike make it sound fairly simple to remove in one piece .

Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500 View Post
I would just cut the buckets off and make a new bracket to hold them to the frame. I found it easiest to just cut the outside and hammer the buckets back and forth a few times to break them off the inside, went very quickly actually.
I will post back up how this works for those of us with sawzall fever
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
G, thanks for sending me the ball joint tool. Interestingly I have about 30,000 miles over about 3 years on my XFR balljoints without issues that I know of. Must have gotten a good set before they tanked.

I wouldn't say the Barnes brackets are equivalent to the poly ones, at least till I see a profile picture of the bracket. Poly's bracket is designed such that the mouting point actually tips away from the frame. This allows you to keep some of the residual frame (top and bottom) when you notch as well as allow you to run up to a 2.5" diameter shock without rubbing under articulation. The lower shock mount on poly's is made to fit inside the lower control arm brackets which allows you to adjust the shock length. In additional, they also include a set of hardware as well. Now maybe Barnes has all of these things and I could be old school here. I am looking forward to seeing how well they fit and will gladly buy a set if they work equivalently to Polys.

At the end of the day its going to be a fine balance as to how much of tilt needs to be made to get the shocks away from the tire and the bottom edge of the bracket. When you do get it figured out please post up some info on how much of a notch is needed on the top and bottom of the frame.

When I tackled my outboard I commited myself to pulling the tank and also unbolting all of the body mounts minus the ones under the door. I remove the ones under the grill and was able to tilt the tub up far enough so that I could weld the back/top edge of the shock bracket to the frame. This removed the extra step of creating a slit in the shock bracket to weld into the top of the frame. With the extra room you can easily cut out your stock spring perches in one piece and reuse them. Keep in mind that now would also be a good time to move your trackbar bracket to the bottom of the frame so you can outboard easier and attackh the track bar mount to the back of the upper shock bracket. I have a couple pictures in my thread so you can get some ideas. Anyways thats enough $0.02 from me
No worries on the Ball joint press , it will go out Monday . As to the install I am sure I will have more than a few questions as I move forward . I liked how your trac bar mount allowed you to run the whole tower . Back to Barnes to order a trac bar mount
Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Ok maybe it's not identical, but you can get as much tip out as you need just by notching the top of the frame a little less than the lower, and IMO the fitment of the lower shock mounts was terrible, they are cut at 0 degrees and the lower control arm bracket is at 10 I think. So the first thing I had to do was ruin that nice laser cut edge. I know I can't ***** about somewhat universal parts.... but I failed to see the value in the poly stuff. The Barnes stuff is $105 + hardware cost..... poly is $250. That's a little insane and I feel like I way over payed for some Synergy stickers.
I am not going to lie , the cost was the major deciding point for me . The parts looked similar , but it was much cheaper . I also looked at the Artec stuff , but it was out of stock .
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
I think you might have things a little backwards here. Stock lower control arm brackets are about. 3 degree whereas most 4 link brackets ascribe to 10 degrees which encourages you to replace your lowers to a matching 10 degrees. The kick in the pants is can one really notice the difference? My humble opinion is no.

If I had to do things over again I would use Genright 4 link brackets which would allow you to utilize the stock lower control arm brackets. This would allow you to slip the poly lower brackets right between the control arm bracket and adjust to perpendicular to the control arm.

I agree that it's expensive and an alternate solution with equivalent results would be nice.
It came down to these or making my own , and the cost of these would be more than offset by the time involved making a pair . That at least will hold true until I get my press brake .
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
I went with the Barnes towers as well G...good purchase and with your fab skills they will work out just fine
Thanks Lu .

Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Ok it's actually 6 degrees. I just measured it! If they're supposed to fit in between the bracket.... they should be cut right!! Damnit! I'm kidding now (I did actually measure it though )..... but still think they're a rip.
Nate you have issues ... serious issues .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
You don't.

Nice towers.
If the money is right I can be patient And even more so when the only brackets I have seen that I like are from Ballistic , so I will have to take my time cutting these off as I cant wait six months for a pair of upper mounts from Ballistic

I am currently sitting in Terminal 5 at JFK , cant wait to get home
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[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/just-another-lj-build-1055533/] Just another LJ build[/url]
[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f330/moab-utah-june-1st-june-14th-2013-a-1444235/]June 2013 Moab Trip [/url]
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Unread 08-08-2013, 01:35 PM   #1587
yellow_snocone
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Good old JFK beats the heck out of DFW
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Unread 08-08-2013, 01:48 PM   #1588
G Beasley
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Originally Posted by yellow_snocone View Post
Good old JFK beats the heck out of DFW
The direct flight to Raleigh isnt bad either
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Sanding is teh debil !

[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/just-another-lj-build-1055533/] Just another LJ build[/url]
[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f330/moab-utah-june-1st-june-14th-2013-a-1444235/]June 2013 Moab Trip [/url]
[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/tj-wrangler-trailer-build-1427938/]Wrangler tub trailer build[/url]
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Unread 08-08-2013, 04:41 PM   #1589
gst95dsm
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Nate you have issues ... serious issues .
People are constantly telling me that!
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Unread 08-09-2013, 11:47 AM   #1590
G Beasley
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New to me tires tomorrow ... pics to follow .
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Sanding is teh debil !

[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/just-another-lj-build-1055533/] Just another LJ build[/url]
[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f330/moab-utah-june-1st-june-14th-2013-a-1444235/]June 2013 Moab Trip [/url]
[url=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/tj-wrangler-trailer-build-1427938/]Wrangler tub trailer build[/url]
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