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Unread 05-11-2010, 08:26 PM   #1
jsc7002
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1966 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wichita, Kansas
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JSC's 1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy- PICTURE HEAVY!

I bought a 1980 Jeep CJ7 just about 1 year ago, and I have been slowly building it and I figured Id post up my pics and progress in a build thread for ya'll. I bought it with no axles and a tub that was rusted pretty good motor didnt run trans had a hole in it no tcase.


Bringing it home with my KJ:








Unloaded in the garage:






Frame, outboarded with winch plate and bumpers, stretched out to a 108-110" WB:



I picked up a 1979 Chevy Scottsdale 10 D44 with 3.40 gears from a salvage yard for $150 and brought it home:




A couple weeks later I found a good deal on a 1974 3/4 Ton FF 14B with 4.10 gears and I shaved it, it was $175:






Chunks from the 14B Shave:




Then I found a guy on CL selling a 3/4T D44 and I was able to trade him my 1/2T parts for his 3/4T parts and I was also able to buy a D44 4.10 ring and pinion for $20, so I stripped down the D44:








I used some wood on the spindles and then hit it with a heavy hammer and it took me a while since they had been sitting in mud for years and years, it broke all my 4x's but I finally got them off.




Stripped and cleaned and painted D44 and knuckles:





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Last edited by jsc7002; 05-12-2010 at 01:07 PM..
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Unread 05-12-2010, 12:42 PM   #2
jsc7002
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Bought some F-250 shock mounts, they were only $16 each from the dealership:






Stripped down the 14 bolt to clean and paint and convert to disc brakes:




stock 1.5" 30 spline shafts:






Taking about the 14 bolt hubs:





New bushings for the leafs:




Cleaning and painting the frame:










New u-bolt plates and axle mounts for the 14 bolt:



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Unread 05-12-2010, 12:54 PM   #3
jsc7002
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Bolted the axles under the frame and cut all the rust from the cab and got it rolling:




Started the rock rails:
















Added a second body mount for the tub and some tub protection:





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Unread 05-12-2010, 01:06 PM   #4
jsc7002
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Then I added some recovery points:








Getting some measurements for the cage:












Working on the seat mounts:






Start of the rear cage, I used 1-5/8"x3/16" DOM tube:
















Bought some motor mounts from Novak adapt:





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Unread 05-12-2010, 01:21 PM   #5
jsc7002
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I started looking for a motor and one morning I got a phone call from my friend saying he just bought a 5.7L and he was giving me his TBI 350 from his 92 GMC 1500HD, so I picked it up and mounted it:










Then I searched CL for a trans and tcase and eventually found a SM465 and an NP205 and adapter and bellhousing but it was missing the intermediate shaft which I shortly found and bought from ebay and I am still missing the shifter for the NP205:










Then I pulled the little body there was for paint:






Got it painted and bolted it back on and did some test flexing for shocks:












Installed the trans and tcase, sitting on ratch straps and some rope:




While searching CL I found a guy parting out a built Dodge 3/4T so I bought the flat top knuckles already drilled and tapped and has Posion Spyder high steer arms and spacers and came with the spindles and hubs and several sets of lock outs for only $120, so I bought them and cleaned them up and painted them:




Then I built my crossmember for the trans/tcase from 4x1/4" angle and some 2" square tube with 3/16" wall and it doesnt hang down any lower than the back half of the tcase, I dont have any pics of it mounted up yet but Ill get some next time I go home:

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Unread 05-12-2010, 01:30 PM   #6
jsc7002
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Next I will be buying some heims for the high steer and DOM tube.

I am using the disc brakes from the Chevy D44 on the 14 Bolt and the Dodge on the front and I bought a brake booster from a 1980 Jeep Cherokee Chief and a OEM pitman arm for $20 and then I bought a 1975 Chevy 3/4T MC that bolts right up to the booster.

For driveshafts I am planning on buying a rear shaft from a Chevy and have it cut down to fit, the rear shaft needs to be about 30.5" and on the front I will be buying a custom one, that will be 39.25" long.

For wheels and tires I will be running the 37" Military tires and wheels with custom centers and beadlocks.

I stilll need to finish the cage, I am missing the A pillar and roof, I am looking for a steering coupler, carb and intake since I didnt get any computer part for the motor and I need to run fuel and brake lines, find a fuel pump.
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Unread 05-12-2010, 01:46 PM   #7
mazegang
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Can't wait to see how it turns out when finished!!! Good work.
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Unread 07-09-2010, 01:50 PM   #8
Brak54
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damn great job/write up soo far!
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Unread 07-09-2010, 03:05 PM   #9
97tjeff
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dude, looks to be a sweet build....my question is, how in the world did you coerce your KJ to pull that massive trailer and all that weight?
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Unread 07-09-2010, 03:14 PM   #10
jsc7002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97tjeff View Post
dude, looks to be a sweet build....my question is, how in the world did you coerce your KJ to pull that massive trailer and all that weight?
Thanks! I know Im going real slow on this sucker but I finally just bought my heims for the steering and got new ball joints pressed in on the new knuckles. The KJ pulled it fine, I could barely tell it was there, the KJ is rated for 5000# and the trailer is probably deciving you its actually pretty light, the frame is made from angle iron not c-channel like most. Plus there wasnt that much weight on the trailer just the 2 frames, body, motor, no t-case or trans or axles, the KJ is actually sagging more there than it did when I had that trailer hooked up to it with a big ol John Deere tractor on it.
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Unread 07-09-2010, 03:22 PM   #11
2006_Sport
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Cool build,but why in the world didn't you just use regular body lifts/mounts instead of hockey pucks?
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Unread 07-09-2010, 10:52 PM   #12
jsc7002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach06 View Post
Cool build,but why in the world didn't you just use regular body lifts/mounts instead of hockey pucks?
well I bought body mounts and used a whole 2 of them lol and the rest are just sittin in my garage now but I just had a bunch of hockey pucks sittin around and they work just as good and are a lot cheaper and easier to replace.
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