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post #1 of 39 Old 02-28-2016, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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The Johnny 5 Build - (07 Rocky Mtn Ed)



3 Weeks After Purchase (Before Lift)

After 2" OME HD Lift (Purchased from Kolak)

With Roof Rack & Custom Graphics Package

I just bought a 07 WK Rocky Mountain Edition with 101k miles on it about three weeks ago.
Boxes of parts are arriving daily at my house, so I decided Id do a build thread and document
some of the issues I've already run into, especially since I anticipate more based on how
things have been going so far..

I wanted a limited, but the only limiteds available at the time were all Hemi's and after test driving
2 of them I couldn't justify the fuel economy since I commute about 60 miles a day and average 25k
miles a year doing photography trips and business driving.

So in this build your going to see me attempt to add a lot of the Limited features to my Laredo.
I decided on a naming of Johnny 5 because everything I try to modify or repair does not come apart
easily, or has some surprise that stops it from working. No Disassemble Johnny 5.

I'll be posting photos and details about each mod as time allows..

Finished Mods

Upgraded speakers to Kicker 11KS35 (02/13/16)
(Limited) Add Automatic Headlights (02/13/16)
(Custom-Fab) Eonon 2110F Android Radio. (02/17/16)
(Limited) Dash conversion to Finish Radio Install. Nav Bezel for Japanese Android Radio (03/03/16)
(Limited) Add Overhead Homelink Garage/Gate Opener (02/18/16)
(Custom-Fab) Under Bumper 22" LED Light Bar (02/20/16)
(Custom-Fab) Overhead Switch Plate (02/20/16)
(4X Upgrade) Timken Bearing Assemblies (02/17/16 & 02/27/16)
(Custom) Tail Light Guards (02/22/16)
(Custom) 4GA Power Cable Install & Custom Fuse Mount (03/03/16)
(Custom) 2nd Amplifier Install & Subwoofer (03/06/16)
(Custom) Wrapped Shift Plate & Control Center Plate with Carbon Fiber Vinyl (03/8/16)
(4X Upgrade) Steel Drive Shaft (Replace Non-Serviceable Aluminum) (03/10/16)
(4X Upgrade) OME Old Man Emu 2" HD Lift (Springs, Shocks & Struts) from (Kolak) (03/13/16)
(Custom) Steel Armadillo Pocket Switch Plate (03/14/16)
(Custom) Installed Yakima LowRider mounts with DIY crossbars (03/15/16)
(Custom) LED Reading Lamp Replacement (3/16/16)
(Custom) Relay board for Overhead & Cubby Switches (03/17/16)
(Custom) Striping on tailgate (03/17/16)
(4X Upgrade) 1.25" Sixity Wheel Adapters (Spacers) (03/19/16)
(Custom) Undercar Wiring & Rooftop Wiring (03/20/16)
(Custom) Hidden GPS Antenna Mount in Dash (03/20/16)
(Custom) Yakima LoadWarrior Basket with Light Mounts (03/21/16)
(Custom) Roof LED light Bar (03/22/16)
(Custom) Modular Roof Rack Wiring (03/23/16)
(Custom) Undercar Rock Lights (03/27/16)
(Custom) Rear LED lights (03/28/16)
(Custom) Made Dropped Crossbar to lower basket 1" (03/29/16)
(Custom) Wrapped Door Lock Switch Plates Carbon Fiber Vinyl (03/30/16)
(Custom) Pinch Weld Mod in Prep for Tires. (04/02/16)
(4X Upgrade) Rubicon Rims & BFG 32" Tires (04/03/16)
(Custom) Vinyl Graphics (Mud & Rcky Mtn Txt) (04/13/16)
(Repair) Sunroof Drain Hose (Drivers Side Flooded) (04/13/16)
(Custom) Add CB Radio + Rear Antenna Mount (04/17/16)
(Custom) Tactical Seatback
(4X Upgrade) Install Hypertech 52501 Programmer (Speedo Calibration & Performance) (04/20/16)
(Custom) 3D Printed Trail Rated Badged Trailer Hitch Cover (04/24/16)
(Maint) Added Aftermarket Keys to Vehicle. (4/26/16)
(Custom) 4XGuard Bumper Matrix (04/30/16)
(Custom) LED Fog Light Swap (04/30/16)
(Custom) Shackles & Isolators (05/01/16)
(Custom) Total Interior LED Swap (05/03/16)
(Custom) Red Interior LED Swap (5/6/16) - (Did Not Keep)


Maintenance Record
(104k) Rear Drivers Door Lock (Squealing) (02/22/16)
(104k) (Washing Machine Sound) Coming From Rear End Diff (Bearings & Races). (03/01/16)
(105k) Spark Plugs, Belt. (04/13/16)
(105k) Clunk from Reverse to Neutral (Cracked Front Diff Bushings) (04/18/16)
(108k) Gas Cap Leak OBD Code (5/26/16) (108k)
(111k) Starter locked up multiple times and smoked (7/1/16)
(111k) Replaced Fan Clutch while troubleshooting Overheating (wasnt needed) (7/1/16)
(111k) Misfire P0304,P0300, Overheated (Found Wet Plug on Cylinder 4) (Needs Head Gasket) (7/1/16)

Pending
(Repair) Exhaust Leak

Future Mods

(Custom) Inverter Install
(Custom-Fab) Accent Lighting on inside Door Handles
(Custom-Fab) Cargo Area Lighting
(Limited) Leather Seats & Heated Seats
(Custom-Fab) Fiberglass Stealth Box
(Custom) Trailer Hitch Mod (Larger Spare)
(Custom) Modify my OME HD Lift

Lift Specs
(Center of Wheel To Fender)
. Stock Height .. - .. Lifted Height .
(18.75")(19.00") - (22.25")(22.00")
(18.50")(19.00") - (21.50")(21.00")

Fuel Economy Losses
Stock MPG - (16.5 - 20.4)
After Lift - (15.2 - 17.8)
After Rack & Roof LED Bar - (14.8 - 16.1)
After 255/70/17 Mud Tires - (13.8 - 14.8) (Need To Recalibrate Speedometer)
After Recalibration - (16.8 - 18.2)

Where has the Jeep Been
May 2016 - West Tx (Ft Davis, McDonald Observatory, Marfa, Delrio)


Thanks!
Thanks go out to Doc from Custom Rod Creations for use of his shop and machinery and help
fabricating brackets for the under bumper light bar, and relay panel fabrication.
Kory, for the differential rebuild and lift install as well as help with pinch weld mod,
3D design revisions, and manhandling of the hub assemblies.
Mike Clark for welding up my modified crossbars.
Fred from Archon Logos for the vinyl graphics and install.


Last edited by -Syntax-; 03-10-2016 at 10:44 PM.
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post #2 of 39 Old 02-28-2016, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Upgraded Dash Speakers

So when I test drove the car I noticed the audio was only coming from the rear. It wasn't until I was almost back to the dealer that I messed with the radio and discovered someone had faded the audio all the way to the back. The front dash speakers sounded horrible, tons of crackling & static.

I went on Crutchfield and Amazon, ordered 3.5 Kicker KS Series speakers for the dash ( 11KS35 ). (4) 6" Kicker KS Speakers for the doors,
a 6x9 to 6" adapter plate, a 6" mounting plate, and a 6 Metra factory speaker harness adapters & 1 radio harness adapter.

Problems
1. Premium Systems Require (PAC or Metra) Can-Bus Adapter.
2. Boston Acoustics Speakers have odd Ohm Load (2.5ohm)
3. Door Depth is very shallow (3 1-3/16)
4. Factory Amp has filters on each channel
5. Here are the part numbera that I needed but didnt end up with to adapt the factory connectors to regular speaker connectors.
For the (3.5" Dash Speakers) Part Number: 71-039C
For the (6x9" & 6" Doors Speakers) Part Number: 72-6514


When all the items arrived the first thing I noticed was that the harness for the radio wasn't right at all. Best Buy car audio confirmed that since my car had the "Boston Acoustics" premium package on it I would need a PAC ( C2r-Chy4 ) radio harness adapter if I wanted to change head units. The reason being the factory radio does not have individual speaker wires or a remote turn on wire for the amp. Instead this system is all Can-Bus controlled. I pulled the radio and looked and sure enough there were only a few wires connecting the whole system. (I'll post some instructions about the PAC unit in a future post as I was confused about a few wires and found other people online confused as well.)

Best Buy also informed me that the selection of speakers I had made would most likely stress the amp causing it to possibly burn out prematurely.. Apparently the Boston Acoustics speakers the car comes with have a very odd Ohm load. Something like 2.5ohm. Also that the depth of speakers the door would accept was very shallow, I would most likely see issues with the window glass hitting the speaker magnets. To make it even worse they told me the amp has built in filters and that the 6x9's in the doors were acting as subwoofers and had high pass filters at the amp. If I swapped my 6x9's for 6" speakers I would loose alot of my lows (bass).

At this point I called it quits on everything but the dash speakers. I opened the corners of the dash and found that the speaker adapters were not the right ones. Fed up with the whole ordeal I just spliced wires onto the factory wire and dropped the 3.5 Kickers into the dash and put the covers back on. I returned all the adapters and door speakers back to Crutchfield.

While doing this I discovered the dash material is very soft, it scuffs very easy, so be careful removing the speaker covers on the dash because they barely fit under the gap on the pillar. A soft pry tool is ideal for removing these.

So as far as the end result, my dash speakers sound a ton better. I decided to keep the factory front door speakers. I plan on installing a small amp under the back seat and trying to amplify some new rear door speakers. This should help with audio quality by adding stronger mid tones and taking some of the load off the factory amp so that it can better power the front dash speakers.



(Kicker 3.5 KS)


(Factory Wire Harness) Boston Acoustics System

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #3 of 39 Old 02-28-2016, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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Automatic Headlights

This was something I didn't even realize I didn't have until it wasn't there. The first day I was driving at night and the headlights didn't come on I realized I didn't have automatic headlights. Then every stop I went to I forgot to turn them off. Having them on my last Grand Cherokee I became spoiled with not having to remember to switch them on and off.

Control Arm with Auto Position & Fog Lights Part # (05143313AF)
Dash Light Sensor Part # (56050241AB)

A little searching online revealed it might be possible to add them to my Laredo. I went to the dealer and spoke with someone in the parts dept, who I've known for a long time. They told me the harness would not be in my dash, the computer showed as many as 10 different harnesses and that they were build specific. They also wanted way more for the sensor that people online were saying they bought them for. Should be $15 or less. But my dealer wanted $30+.

Back at my office I popped the little circle dash cover off where the sensor would normally be and fished around with my fingers. I thought there was something in there but couldn't grab it.

I slid myself up onto the hood and looked thru the front windshield and could see the cable and plug inside. I ended up using some bent nose pliers to grab down inside the hole and fish the wire out. Theres not a lot of slack on this cable so be careful not to pull the wires out of the plug.

Once I knew the plug was there I went online and found the sensor for $13 on Ebay, and the Switch Control Arm with the auto setting for $35. A few days later I installed both, the auto position turned the lights on, but they didnt turn off automatically after locking the car and they didnt turn off in daylight.

Installation was pretty straight forward the sensor just snaps onto the plug and then into the dash. The control arm requires removal of 3 star screws on the bottom side of the steering column. Remove the top and bottom halves of the column. The arm is secured by 2 small screws, the plug will detach as you slide the arm back. The new one attaches the same way you removed it.

Problems
Further research indicated I may need the dealer to flash my car with a auto-headlight program. Apparently the only way to get the flash is for your VIN number to have the LMG build code attached to it, which indicates your car came auto-headlight equipped.

I have yet to visit the dealer, I will update this later when I find out if my Jeep can be flashed to enable the feature.

Update: (03/05/16)
I went to a dealer Ive done business with and spoke with a tech and a parts dept guy who has access to build codes and vehicle configs for parts ordering.
He attempted to add the sales code LMG to my vehicle and it was verified LMG is not available for addition. LMK (running lights) was available. So I went
to one of the techs and he told me he would attempt to open a Star Case to have Chrysler add the LMG code to my VIN number.. I will update again
when he hears back from them. He also informed me once its added I will need whats called a "Reconfig" that will reflash my computer with a fresh
program that includes the new sales code.


View of sensor harness & port from outside windshield.


View of headlight sensor connector.


Headlight switch with Part Number & (A) auto position.
(Photo from Auction Listing)


Daylight Sensor located on center of dash.
(Was $13.29 from the vendor pictured)

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars

Last edited by -Syntax-; 03-04-2016 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Update to progress on this item.
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post #4 of 39 Old 02-28-2016, 09:32 AM
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Sounds good so far! But get some pics of the rig up! We don't even know what it looks like

There are the wolves, there are the sheep, but then, there are the Sheepdog's
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post #5 of 39 Old 03-04-2016, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Hopefully I will get a good pic this weekend. Its been raining and Ive been working on my Jeep in the middle of the night after work. Ive only owned it 3 weeks. I just got the phone call my plates are ready for pickup.. =)

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #6 of 39 Old 03-05-2016, 05:12 PM
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post #7 of 39 Old 03-10-2016, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Android Radio Install (Eonon G2110F)

I had a Eonon Android radio in my last Grand Cherokee and I knew from that install that it was not a standard double din. They are actually a Japanese size radio which is about 1/8" wider and taller than a double din. This means no matter what direction you go as far as bezels or mounting kits, you will have to do some cutting and sanding.

Items Needed
1. PAC Adapter for Premium Sound System (Boston Acoustics, Kicker)
2. Navigation Mounting Adapter Kit
3. Navigation Dash Bezel from a Limited
4. Radio Antenna Adapter
5. Zipties, Doublesided Tape, Sand Paper, File, Wire Loom (optional)
6. Replacement Mounting Screws (Longer)

Problems
1. Android Radio is larger than a double din.
2. Extra wires with poor documentation on both radio and PAC harness.
3. You will loose fade support on your new radio unless you use an aftermarket amp.

Modification For Japanese Radio Din Size
So I started by trimming the mounting kit face plate.. I used the trim plate the Eonon comes with as a template to determine how much I would need to trim from the Navigation mounting kit.. If you lay the Nav kit face down.. you can place the trim ring that is included with the Eonon radio right over it allowing for some measuring and markings to assist in the trimming..

A combination of a power sander, rasp, sandpaper and block were used to even it out, got the corners nice and sharp and sized to fit the oversized radio.

PAC Adapter Wiring (C2r-chy4)

There was some confusion in the wiring. The PAC had 2 black grounds and 2 Yellow power wires. I wired both grounds to the thick ground on the radio, and both yellows to the thick yellow power wire on the radio.

If you want to bypass the parking brake safety for navigation and DVD you can just attach the parking brake wire on the radio to the ground wire as well.

Unused wires on Eonon (Radio) Side

In the pic you can see the rear speaker wires are unused (purple and green wires) This is because the PAC adapter converts just the front speaker signal to CanBus, the factory amp will then split the signal to all the speakers.
The key 1 & key 2 are unused since I do not have steering wheel controls. On my Jeep with steering controls I used just the Key1 wire and connected it to the CanBus wire in my steering column.
There was also a small thin black ground wire on the radio harness I found out this is a ground for steering wheel controls.. If you don't have them, you don't need to connect it. I read that this ground should be connected to a ground that is common to the steering controls. You can use a multimeter to test connectivity between the ground spots if you have problems getting steering controls to work.



Unused wires on PAC (Adapter) Side

Red/White (Parking Brake) Only connect this if you DO NOT want the DVD to work while the car is moving otherwise ground this wire.
White & Gray front speaker wires ( The PAC Adapter only uses the Rear Wires) Instructions say you loose Fading Ability due to this.
Purple/White (Speed Sensor)

Finished Harness

I connected the PAC Adapter and the Radio harness together soldering them and then heat shrinking them.. To allow for a cleaner install and less wire mess I then used a piece of loom to cover them all and keep them bunched together nicely..

In the pics you may notice I have one blue wire with a crimp connector, that is connected to a wire going to my subwoofer amp. Since this wire doesnt
disconnect from the harness on the radio or car, I connected it with a removable terminal so I could detach it if I needed to change any wiring later.

Removing Vehicle Tabs For Non Nav Radio

I read other posts where people were talking about bending back the tabs inside the dash that are put there for the non Navigation radios. Saw one person cut them off.. I looked inside and noticed 2 screws painted green. Once removed the plate with the tabs comes right out.. I utilized these holes and screws to make a GPS mounting plate.

Securing the PAC Adapter

I applied a piece of double sided tape to the PAC adapter so that it would stay put on the top back part of the radio. 1. To avoid damage or the possibility the radio would not
fit because box was wedged behind it and 2. I didn't want any vibrations inside the dash.

Final Mounting
Once all the wiring was done and the faceplate was modified to accept the new size radio, the last surprise was the screws.. The factory screws were not long enough for the new faceplate plus the mounting ears and the dash supports. So I had to find some self tapping 3/4" screws and thread them in. I found the plastic ears the mounting kit came with worked better than the metal ones the Eonon radio came with so I used them instead.


Heres the finished install, with the Navigation Dash, Nav Bezel Adapter Plate, Eonon Radio.

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #8 of 39 Old 03-11-2016, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Adding Homelink to Overhead Console

One of the items on my list to add to my Laredo that my Limited had was the homelink transmitter.

Items Needed
1. Homelink Module (You dont need the whole console, just the black box)

Problems
1. You will need to recalibrate your compass when your done.
2. Power cable can be hard to unclip.
3. Plastic can be brittle from roof heat, be carefull not to break anything.


I found out that the homelink module is part of the compass module. Its on the same circuit board. The vehicles without homelink are just missing a few microchips and the buttons. So its a simple module swap to add it. The control panel, lights and all just pop out. Theres 3 metal tabs on the left,right, and center & 2 electrical plugs connecting it all. One of my overhead consoles had brittle plastic so use care as I would assume they start to crack like the one I purchased from heat. To remove the module you remove the 4 silver screws and it just unsnaps. The harness connectors can be tricky to get released.

Module Without Homelink

I pulled this one from my vehicle..


Heres what the board inside the NON-Homelink module looks like. You can see one half of the board is unpopulated.


I ordered an entire overhead console, before I pulled it and discovered I only needed the box. This means if you buy a whole console it doesn't matter if the one you buy one that has a sunroof control or not. You can just pull the homelink module from it and transplant it into yours.

Module With Homelink

I opened the black box to see what was inside. Same board in both modules, just a few chips missing on one. The one I ordered came from a Chrysler 300. You can tell this module includes homelink because the label has the little house with the arrow. Model number works as well.. but the icon is a giveaway.

Compass Calibration
So when I was all done I had a surprise waiting.. Everything Ive done on this car so far has come with a few gotchas.. My EVIC or Electronic Display said "CAL" on it.
This is when I realized the other chips inside that black box were the compass.. Easy fix.. find a parking lot and drive around in circles a few times.. the "CAL" message will go away on its own. May take a half dozen circles.. A spiral where you start with a small circle and gradually get wider supposedly works better.. Mine corrected itself after about 4 circles.

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #9 of 39 Old 03-11-2016, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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22" LED Lightbar (Tow Hooks)

So I decided I was going to do dual light bars on this Jeep. One down low between the tow hooks and one rooftop.




My friend Doc created some brackets, and helped me drill some holes and mount it between the hooks on the front bumper.


Its not 100% yet, brackets could use some paint, and some re-centering. But it can wait, as of now theres no power to it.

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #10 of 39 Old 03-20-2016, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Custom 3D Printed Overhead Switch Plate

As of now, I'm still trying to pin down the switch plate I'm working on. I've run into several issues during the design process, had to print about 5 of them so far to get the issues remedied.. This week I finally mounted all the switches and installed the plate into the overhead compartment and ran the wires thru the pillar.

Surprise #1, the bottoms of the switches are allowing light to escape, just so happens they are lined up with the rear view mirror, so I see the switch lights in my mirror when they are turned on...

Surprise #2, the back of the switch plate collects a ton of light from the map lights. Everytime they I unlock my car, a ton of light is reflected onto my dash and the switch plate becomes a light bar when viewed from the front of the vehicle..

I've started working on another switch plate.. Going to try re-positioning the switches higher up the design.. hopefully this
will block the reflection in my rear view mirror.. Also going to paint the backside of the plate flat black to try and stop the dome lights from reflecting so much..

I'll post some more details on this and pictures once this progresses..

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #11 of 39 Old 03-20-2016, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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Timken Hub Bearings Upgrade

While my mechanic/friend was attempting to fix the noise coming from somewhere in the rear we found that one of the hub bearings sounded like it was making noise.
Knowing a lift was on the way, I decided to replace the rear hub bearings now rather than later..

While researching hub assemblies online, I found some really cheap ones, as low as $60 for a pair..
I read a lot of horror stories about these going out in less than a month.

Got a good price on some Timken bearings from RockAuto online. $244 Shipped for both rear bearings.
Oreillys wanted somewhere around $170 for a single no-name brand hub assembly.
Autozone wanted $210 for a single Moog.





Problems:
1. They become rusted to the axle and can be hard to remove.
2a The O-Rings that seal the axle and retain the hub position while mounting were not available at the local autoparts stores.
2b New assembles don't come with them. Make sure to keep & re-use your old ones.
3. If your hub is rusted on its almost impossible to remove without complete disassembly of the emergency brake (drum brake).



(Old Rusted Assembly) Drum Brakes behind assembly.


We worked on the first hub for over 45 minutes, trying everything from hammers and large screw drivers, to prybars. My hub assemblies were rusted in place. You also have to take care not to bend up your dust guard while your battling these things if they don't come off easily.

I tried to remove the speed sensor but was scared I was going to break it as it also didnt want to budge.

Solution was a 2nd mechanic with a bigger hammer. (Really)

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #12 of 39 Old 03-20-2016, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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(Squealing) Rear Drivers Door Lock Repair

When I first bought my Jeep I knew the back door lock was making noise. What I didnt realize was how quickly it was going to drive me nuts. Everytime I drove off it would autolock and make this screeching noise that would make me jump sometimes. You could hear the noise 20 feet away from the car when you locked it with the remote.

Then I found out the entire lock, motor, metal arms were a single unit. So I went to the dealer to buy one and found out they were over $100.

Got lucky and found someone who had ordered the wrong side and was selling a brand new unit online. Purchased it and installed it..

Problems
1. Child safety switch will bend or crack off if you don't get it lined up just right before attempting to re-bolt the lock.


The install was pretty straight forward.
Removed the door panel, a few screws from the outside of the door released the motor, reaching inside theres 3 plastic clips that will push off the metal rods and allow the rods to be detached from the motor. You can turn the motor on its side and it will slide out from behind the metal window track. I had my concerns it was going to even fit past the track but it did.. just barely..

Jut repeated the process to put it back in.. The unit I purchased already had a broken child safety switch. But I could see this snapping off by mistake.

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #13 of 39 Old 03-20-2016, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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Tail light Guards

I decided to do the tail light guards the same night as the door lock. I figured the doorlock would be hard and the tail light guards would be a direct bolt on.. I was wrong..

I purchased my tail light guards from a seller on Ebay.
I received blackhorseoffroad tail light guards.

Problems
1. No instructions with these.
2. Mounting clips didn't fit tail light.
3. Requires drilling to mount front of guard.
4. Alignment requires taking them on and off a few times.
5. Tabs may still be bent even though they come with rubber on them.


Black Horse Tail Light Guards


Everything in the box.

Step 1.

Remove the plastic plugs that hold the light in. They have a slot for a flat head screw driver.
The tail light will pull out.
Twist the light plugs and they will come out of the housing.

Step 2.

Test mount the guards, I used nuts and bolts to hold them in place temporarily.
Level the bracket and mark a dot where the front tab will be screwed down.
Remove the guard back off the vehicle.

Step 3.

Detach tab from the guard.
Screw down the tabs by itself where you marked the dot.
I used self tapping screws.

Step 4.

Attach the provided mounting clips to the tail light.
I recommend pre threading the screws thru them.
I had the clips bend open and fall off at least 3 times.
I ended up replacing them with heavy duty clips later because I stripped one of them. (Picture of aftermarket clip at end)

Step 5.

Reinstall tail light, screw down clips, screw front tab to guard.

Step 6.

Finished install


These are the heavy duty mounts that use small bolts. I had to wallow out the holes on the guards to allow bolts.
I have no idea what the 2 sticky pads were for. Maybe if you don't want to drill to mount the guards?

I emailed Black Horse, asking them if these guards require modification normally? If there were instructions somewhere? If they knew the mounting clips were undersized?
I never received a response.

These guards took me about 2.5 hours to install, including bending of metal brackets, multiple attempts to use the provided clips and all the adjusting and modification
to allow use of the clips I substituted.

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #14 of 39 Old 03-20-2016, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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Differential Rebuild Kit (Yukon Gear & Axle)

I ordered a rebuild kit from Rockauto.com that was advertised as containing Timken bearings.
Its a full rebuild kit for the C213R/C213RE differential. $124


Stock Photo (Contents)

I had a my friend/mechanic install this. He had to completely break down both hub assemblies, brakes, axles and the diff to rebuild it..
Was a full afternoon.. Think it took him about 6-7 hours to get the whole thing done. He did this while I was at work.. so no pics.. =(

I didn't replace any of the gears.. and it turned out I did in fact have a bad bearing and race on one of my axles.
I didn't take a photo of it before I tossed it.

But once it was back together the washing machine noise coming from the rear end was gone. In fact the car felt like it was moving easier after this.

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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post #15 of 39 Old 04-05-2016, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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4GA Power Wire Install (For Power Distribution)

For my main power wire, I went with a 4GA wire, I plan to use this wire to power my subwoofer, a power inverter and run a power lead from it to the dash where I can power my lightbars, CB, and other items from it.

When I went to run the wire the first problem was that the firewall on this car is pretty much sealed. There were no openings to run the cable through. We attempted to punch a hole in the grommet for the main harness but discovered the grommet was a 3 piece part had a twist lock and was keyed, it popped loose and we spent a good 30 minutes trying to get it back installed.

Finally we just drilled a new hole right next to the existing holes where the hood cable passes through the firewall. I lined the power wire with a piece of heater hose and some rubber fittings to secure the heater hose to the firewall.


From there I ran the wire under the carpet thru the step plate under the middle pillar and out from under the rear step at the back seat. The seat has a metal bracket that bolts it to the floor and conveniently has a hole at the rear where the wire can be passed through easily. From there I ran the wire across the rear floorboard under the seat and over to the passengers side. I discovered one of the computers is under the drivers side rear.

To make this easier I removed the back bench, I sleeved the cable in nylon mesh loom for additional protection. I then mounted a 6 way distribution block on the passengers side, rebolted the seat back in and moved to the front of the vehicle.

At the front I first fabricated a bracket out of steel to hold my mega fuse but then after trying to mount it on the slanted and uneven area near the shock tower I decided I wanted to come up with something better. I ended up using a piece of ABS plastic removed from another vehicles radio area. Cut the piece with a grinder, belt sanded the edges and sized it for the fuse block. I drilled the holes
for the fuse block, and then found a nice tab at the back of my factory fuse blocks that was unused and had a hole already in it.


I drilled the plate I made to mount to the unused tab (which may be used on a limited ed, but wasnt on my laredo). I used a bolt and nuts to secure the tab and bracket, and some button head bolts to secure the fuse block to my bracket allowing clearance for the wire. Since its ABS plastic even if the wire touched the bolts they are all insulated from each other.. another plus..


Once this was done I measured the cable to length, cut it and swedged some copper terminals on to each end, heated them with a propane torch and fed some solder into the terminals, lastly a piece of high temp heat shrink to clean up the appearance and add some extra insulation.


Another small cable was then needed to connect the block to the battery, same process making the cable.. The idea here was to run everything off this 4ga wire.. On my previous jeep I had about 6 wires tied to the battery terminal, it was a mess, I had mechanics worried it was going to touch the hood, the auto parts place wanted to blame all the wires for breaking a battery terminal, they wanted to blame all the wires when I had a battery go bad.. So with this install, 1 wire.. fused.. they are less likely to blame wires or number of devices ect for battery problems.

2007 WK Rocky Mtn / OME HD / 255/75/17 BFG AT / Rubicon Wheels / 1.25 Spacers / Yakima Loadwarrior / Dual LED Bars
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