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Jeffery 2.0 - some assembly required

202K views 1K replies 99 participants last post by  Tbunse 
#1 ·
Well I think it was finally time to start a build tread over here on JF.

I started with this pile of heep.
It was pretty much stripped down, had a bent frame. I bought it for the tub and title.


And my plans for this build are the following

Drive Train
-3.9 Cummins 4bt Turbo Diesel
*cut down 6bt exhaust manifold
*cut down 6bt intake plate w/ air horn
*he341 turbo​
-NV4500 trans
-Atlas II (3.0)
-1979 Ford HP D60 (ARB, Factory Ten Chromoly's, 4.56, Artec Trust, Ried Racing Knuckles)
-1985 14b (ARB, 4.56, shaved to 13b, Artec Trust)
-40" Goodyear MTR Old School (1st set)
-ORI Struts (14")

Armor
-TnT hi-line zeros
-Custom made boat sides
-Custom made phantom hi-line front fenders.

Interior
-Custom Roll cage w/ integrated dash
-Corbeau Baja Ultra SS seats
-Custom Tool box in the rear
-Fuel cell behind the seats.

Specs
-105-106" Wheelbase
-5" rear stretch
-7"ish front stretch
-22" at skid plate
-5.5" up travel
-8.5" down travel
-Not sure the total amount of lift over stock, but should be around 4-5"

I have collected most of the parts for the build, and over my college winter break I got started on the build

Links to my Trips

3-16-2013 - Shake Down Run @ Bandlands - Attica, IN

4-20-2013 - Day at the Bandlands - Attica, IN

5-18-2013 - Week of Wheeling in Moab
- Dome Plateau
- Top of The World
- Fins-N-Things
- Poison Spider
- Golden Spike
- Gold Bar Rim
- Hell's Revenge
- Escalator
- Baby Lion Back
- Cliff Hanger
- Moab Rim
- Kane Creek Canyon
- Strike Ravine
- Potato Salad Hill
- Helldorado

9-14-2013 - Day at the Bandlands - Attica, IN

10-24-2013 - Weekend in Harlan, Ky @ Black Mountain Off Road

12-7-2013 - Toys for Tots @ Bandlands - Attica, IN

3-29-2014 - IndyORV Open Run @ Badlands - Attica, IN

8-8-2014 - Week of Wheeling in Colorado
- 21Rd
- Die Tryin'
- Black Bear
- Imogene Pass
- Yankee Boy Basin
- Governors Basin
- Red Mountain
- Phorpyry Gulch
- Alta Lakes, Ohpir Pass
- Alpine Loop
*Mineral Creek
*Poughkeepsie Gulch
*Cinnamon Pass
*Engineer Pass
- Carnage Canyon
- Holy Cross

9-27-2014 - IndyORV Members Only Run @ Mission Impossible - Attica, IN

8-10-2015 - Week of Wheeling, Rubicon Trail

Build starts here
For the 14b I went and got UCF 13b shaved cover.
I put the cover on, marked the cut and went at it




Cleaned it up with a flapper wheel, and bolted the stock cover on, so I could see the clearance gained. (1.25")



I knew I was going to need to do a 1" body lift, so instead of doing pucks, I went with Gen Rights body mount lift.


Old


New



Then my friend cut off the back half


I went with the atx back half kit the second go around. I first tried it will using 2x3 tubing coming off the frame, but I was not happy with the angles I got.


I plan on doing something different in the rear, out side of the tub. But for now it looks like this.


Then on the front half of the frame I made some cuts and got rid of the drop down section.
I left the tubes 9" long cause I might have to stretch it a few inch from factory so I can fit a winch up from.
*BEFORE

*AFTER


When I did this I made an L cut, cause I was stepping down from 2.5" to 2", and it worked great.



Well I got to work on pulling the engine.
I chopped up the grill a little, there was no way I was going to pull it out the side door like they say to do.


God was it greasy


Half a gallon of de-greaser and a power washer, cleaned it up pretty good.


 
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#170 ·
Fantastic job. It took me three days to get the electrical tape off my wireness and in your spare time you drew up the wiring schematics .lol. awesome job.



When do u estimate this beast will be running? Cant wait to see and hear it.
 
#171 ·
Hey on your intercooler pipe and the flange once in the vise did you use a pipe wrench and turn the pipe ?

Is this flange end necessary on non intercooled such as mine?

Great idea
 
#172 ·
Hey on your intercooler pipe and the flange once in the vise did you use a pipe wrench and turn the pipe ?

Is this flange end necessary on non intercooled such as mine?

Great idea
Mine wont be running till end of Nov. Or at least that is what I am hoping for. Once I finish the cage - end of September. I will tear down, paint and powered coat. Then final assembly. :)

And what you do is clamp down on the vice then you release the vise, rotate the pipe a little, then re clamp. And repeat till you get all the way around. That is why I have those springs in there. That way when you un screw the vice it will spring open so you can rotate the pipe a little.
I got my idea form this.

I just wanted to make something that would be easier and faster to work with. Thats when I came up with the tool I did.

I would recommend it with any turbo set up. When you are running that kinda of boost it is easier to blow a pipe off when there is nothing for the clamp to grab. At least do it on the outlet pipes from the turbo to the intake.
To bad your not around the area, I would let you barrow it.
 
#173 ·
So today I made the brakets and mounted the head lights


Then I finished up the hood pins



After that I worked on the front suck down winch.




Just need to make the axle tie down point for the rope.
 
#185 ·
Not a major update. But at school this week I messed around in cad and drew up a bumper for the rear.



I also finished up both harnesses for my rock lights. Ill be sure so post them when there all mounted.
 
#186 ·
got my drive shafts. I little disappointed in the packaging of them. They are scratched to **** on the other side.



Got the rear installed.


Then for next weekend I made this tool for a friend to use while I give him the job to remove my king pins. That should be fun!! :D

(thats a 1/2" allen key next to it)
 
#187 ·
Like those drive shafts are going to stay scratch free.
 
#191 ·
What brand are those drive lines and why did you choose them? I'll be needing some in the near future. Also, what tranny and TC are you going with?
 
#192 ·
They are Carolina Driveline. I went with them cause they had something simular to what I wanted and was cheaper then H.A.D. They are 2.5" x 0.194" wall DOM. With 1350 all the way around. Its an NV4500 with an Atlas.
 
#195 ·
So I spent hours prep-ing the front axle for paint and powder coat today. I spend 2 hrs sand blasting it. Then I de greased it. Then I metal etched it. Then I por-15 it. Now just to wait for that to dry over night. Then I can use some etch primer and put a top coat on it.




Then for the diff cover I busted out my $20 stove I picked up some time ago and powder coated it silver vein. It didn't turn out as vein-y as I would have liked it to. But its going to get beat to **** so who cares.




 
#198 ·
Thanks Guy's.

Well Sunday I worked on the front axle some more.
I after the por-15 I did the etch primer and then a top coat of spray can black.


Then I started to clean up the brake's and hubs.
After sandblasting and de greased.


Soaking in a metal etcher.


Then after por 15 - primer and top coat.


Then I set out to work on the rear. I finished up a few last min welding items and took the hubs off so next weekend I install the locker, and gears. And clean and paint it.


Powder coated the battery tied down and finally got the color in which I wanted the diff to be. Using new color of powder takes a learning curve with the cure time.


Lastly a little side not. Make sure to always where gloves, even if its a little task. I went to wire brush part of my spindle. Less then 5mins of work, and it slipped and got my hand :(
 
#201 ·
Bored at between class today. So I was thinking of a creative way to incorporate my reverse lights into my bumper. If you noticed that slit in the middle of it. Its there for a reason. I plan to but a 20" RGB LED bar in there.
So my goal is to have it so that when the brake is pressed it lights up red. and when the in reverse it will light up white.

The only issue is that these LED bars are common anode and I really need a common cathode configuration. For those that care. A common anode is where the led's share a +12 connection and an common cathode is when there share a ground.

So in order to get what I need I drew up a quick circuit. I should be getting the parts in a couple weeks. :D
 
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