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SPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineG2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ Ch

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Unread 09-13-2013, 10:45 PM   #541
tdij
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Nice man! Wish I could have made it out! Glad it made it through it's first day unharmed... more than you could say for either of the 60s!

And yes... cleveland rock is exactly as you describe it. I would never purposely try it in anything but a rig that's sole purpose was the trail... like a buggy. No interest in ever running my Jeep up it regardless the wheelbase. Risk is not worth the reward for a wall of that size that slopes into a hole.

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Unread 09-14-2013, 07:17 AM   #542
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Are you gears new? if you don't break them the right way they can run hot, or something is not set right with them.

Jason.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 08:11 AM   #543
Jeepin72
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Yes, the gears are new. I've been reading about gear break in! Unfortunately, after I've already driven it.

What I read about before was just changing the oil after 500 miles. Seems that there may a bit more to it. I had not heard of work hardening the gears. Funny thing is, after having gears set up in the old axles and once in the front 60, no one has ever mentioned anything more to me about breaking in new gears.

Some say that if you can hold your hand on the diff cover for 2-3 seconds and not be burned, it is not too hot. I can certainly do that.

Oh well, too late to worry now! I will pull the cover soon and take a look for bluing and change the oil, although there won't be more than 150 miles on the gear set.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 10:22 AM   #544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
Denied on Cleveland Rock. It's been really wet and it has a huge puddle at the bottom right now. Wet tires equal no hook up. There were a couple of buggies in front of us and only one made it.

Even at 101" Cleveland is a massive slick slab! It is uber nasty!

Thanks
Darn straight. I watched a 4dr jk roast em up it once. Coming back down, he did an endo at the bottom and dang near rolled it end over end. With any wheelbase, it's sketchy.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:18 AM   #545
Jeepin72
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Ain't that the truth! Once you are up, you have to get your rig back down. Almost any way you do it, one of the front tires will be dropping in the hole at the bottom while the other wants to climb and the A** end is nearly vertical.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 05:36 PM   #546
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
Yes, the gears are new. I've been reading about gear break in! Unfortunately, after I've already driven it.

What I read about before was just changing the oil after 500 miles. Seems that there may a bit more to it. I had not heard of work hardening the gears. Funny thing is, after having gears set up in the old axles and once in the front 60, no one has ever mentioned anything more to me about breaking in new gears.

Some say that if you can hold your hand on the diff cover for 2-3 seconds and not be burned, it is not too hot. I can certainly do that.

Oh well, too late to worry now! I will pull the cover soon and take a look for bluing and change the oil, although there won't be more than 150 miles on the gear set.
Yep the horse is out the barn, no worry's they will break in. I would still pull the cover and inspect the gears and look for any sharp edge's on the gears, or at least anything that's out of the norm.

That's why I like setting up used gears more than new gears, they are all ready broken in.

Jason.
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And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-14-2013, 08:10 PM   #547
Jeepin72
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There is a lot out there on the web about gear break-in. Since it is on the web it must be true! There are some who say it is not necessary to work harden anything less than a heavy truck or semi. There are others that say you should work harden all gear sets.

My thoughts...it is my money, my rig, my problem if I have a brake down on the trail... Randy's Ring and Pinion has the the shortest and most concise write up on gear break-in.

I will pull the cover next week after Friday pay day when I may have another $50.00 to spend on gear oil!
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Unread 09-15-2013, 07:32 AM   #548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
There is a lot out there on the web about gear break-in. Since it is on the web it must be true! There are some who say it is not necessary to work harden anything less than a heavy truck or semi. There are others that say you should work harden all gear sets.

My thoughts...it is my money, my rig, my problem if I have a brake down on the trail... Randy's Ring and Pinion has the the shortest and most concise write up on gear break-in.

I will pull the cover next week after Friday pay day when I may have another $50.00 to spend on gear oil!
50.00 in gear oil yikes, I run the store brand 85-90 weight and have been for years and never had any problems, its like 10.00 dollars for a gal. I ran that in the plow trucks and my off road rigs and never once said I needed something better.

Lucas is nice along with syn. oil but your only slapping oil around a diff at low speeds or at max some highway, normal gear oil will be fine. But like you said its your rig and money, buy the way looks nice.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-23-2013, 04:12 PM   #549
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This weekend I was able to change the gear oil in the rear differential. I had 300 miles on the gear set. The gear set looked fine. So I put the cover back on and was off. They do seem to be running cooler now.

I also got the parking brake set up. The Eldorado e-brakes live up to the name. They will hold you in a parking spot or on a slight grade. They will not stop the rolling vehicle and don't hold you at 1500 RPM's (fortunately Colorado does not have vehicle inspections).

I may consider doing a drive line brake as well. I already have flange style yokes on the Atlas anyhow. Building a brake there won't be a major undertaking.

When I was at the landfill dropping off the gear oil I got a chance to get weighed as well. Fully loaded (me, tools, recovery gear, etc...) I was 5420 pounds. My 8000 lb winch is about 100 lbs shy of the one and a half times the vehicle weight. I figured the winch would be surpassed after the one ton swap. I am actually surprised at how close it is though.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 08:31 PM   #550
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interesting on the weight... I wish we weighed our rigs under similar loads... to give a better idea of what the difference is. I might have to load it and weigh it one day.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 06:48 AM   #551
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I've always wondered what the Jeep weighed. Load it up and take a trip to the landfill or hit truck stop scales!
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Unread 09-24-2013, 08:22 PM   #552
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Help my understand he slow gear oil weep I am having from the pinion retainer ring bolts. The majority of the weep is coming through the bolt threads and causing a small, really small drip, to collect on the pinion guard. There is a very small amount of oil showing up on the housing between the center chunk, the shim, and the pinion retainer. Is this due to too much gear oil. There is 4 quarts in there now.

On the all knowing web I found info from 2.8 qts to as much as more than 5 qts is the CUCV manuals. I went with 4 on this fill. It is about 1/2 inch below the fill plug.

I drive this beast to the trail. It is not a commuter, but she does see highway use a couple of days a week.

So the pinion guard comes with 1.5 long 7/16x14 bolts. I swapped in some 2" bolts and doubled up the lock washers and they didn't bottom out. I slathered on some oil resistant RTV as well.



In past observations I re-torqued the bolts to the 65 lbs in the CUCV manual. They seem to backing off of that. With the previous 1.5" bolt and lock washer and the 2" bolt and dual lock washer.

Why is the torque loosening?

The other day I re-set the pinion angle. After everything had a chance to settle. Right now the pinion and the drive shaft are both at 19 degrees based on an analogue dial. I don't feel any driveline vibes (which I am used to feeling in the previous phases of the build so I THINK I can recognize them).

Is it a bad pinion angle causing the bolts to work loose? I can't find anything on Google about the pinion guard, and or pinion retainer bolts coming loose.

Some of the hot rod world acknowledges that gear oil will travel up the threads in the axles they run, but is that a normal non issue?
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Unread 09-25-2013, 09:53 PM   #553
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With the pinion guard on and its welded it may not be flat after it got welded, the pinion guard.
So if its dished ( the guard ) where the bolts are suppose to touch flat the torque may not be enough to flatten the guard out and keep proper torque on the pinion.
Hence the leak and the backing off of the pinion bolts.

Your torqueing specs are correct, 65LBs, but you changed the idea behind the spec, the guard. GM never thought of a round dish attached to the pinion, which if it were flat it wouldn't matter, but I bet it wrapped from welding and its dished.

So a over torque on those bolts is what's needed or studs to over compensate for the guard being dished.

You could try removing the guard and see If the torque specs hold and the leak go's away.
If it still leaks a shim might be pinched causing a small drip. I ran mine for 8 years and would check those bolts often and trust me they loosing up.

We are asking these axle's to thing they were not designed to do, they can take it that's not the question, but we are way out the specs of what they were intended to do.
So more maintance is needed to preserve them outside there intended use.

Try having a fleet of them for plow trucks, my guys beet the crap out them, but with a good maint. program ( aka me ) they lasted years.

Jason.
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And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 10-01-2013, 09:11 PM   #554
Jeepin72
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I haven't had a chance to re-torque the pinion guard as a clunk developed on the front end and a hub issue developed after this weekend.

On the way out of Holy Cross I noticed a clunk coming from the front end while driving the long dirt road out. I stopped several times and pushed and pulled on parts and couldn't find the problem. I chalked it up to a new and relatively un driven new rig. I figured there may be new some new sounds that the old rig didn't make. The sound continued this last weekend.

So I did some further inspection tonight. I checked every bolt and every weld on the front end. I discovered that the exhaust was loose and the bolts near the two cats below the manifold. I could shake it easily. Tightened those up and couldn't move it anymore.

Then I found a larger problem. A cracked weld on the bridge over the pumpkin and a crack in the plate.



This bridge was built out of 3/16" rect tube. The the radius arm comes over the top and meets its mount on the bridge. The main purpose of the bridge was to weld steel t steel instead of welding to cast. However the bridge crosses the pumpkin and ties into steel plate on the other side. That radius arm has Johnny Joints at both ends.

Radius arms and binding! Even with Johnny Joints at the both ends of the radius arm, the weld went. Chicken or the egg... I don't know if the weld where the bridge bends went first causing the plate to crack by the radius arm mount, or other way around.



I should be able to reach the crack with the stick welder I have at my house. Hopefully I will get home early enough tomorrow to clean up the area and throw down a new bead and patch the crack. I am not sure can hit the crack with a grinder, but it would be nice to burn on another layer of some welding steel there.

I hope this doesn't become a problem that will cause me to pull that front axle and build a new bridge/truss
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Unread 10-01-2013, 10:04 PM   #555
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Damn dude... you can't get a break with these axles. I think you should go down tire size and sell me the 40's!
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