Last night I got the coil bucket perches and LCA brackets tacked in as well as the truss with UCA brackets. I am going to wait and do the anti-rock and shock tabs when I test fit it. Got some welding done on the top of the tube joining the center chunk and the tubes.
I got the 14 Bolt slung under the Jeep today. I still have a 101" wheel base. I have more room between the diff cover and the tank. I had to pull about an inch out of the slip in the drive shaft. I gotta call Tom Woods and see if it needs to be lengthended or if it is fine.
Testing fit at full compression without springs and such. Making sure I am not hitting the tank.
I was always puzzled as to why the pumpkin on the 60 never appeared centered in the notch on the GenRight tank. I knew the axle was centered and the tank can only go where it goes. I couldn't figure it out, but it certainly didn't keep me up at night. Now I know why...GenRight must assume you are using a 14 bolt, not a stinking 60. The 14 bolt fits nicely in the notch in the tank.
Cycled the suspension. No binding or issues observed.
There was plenty of room for the AntiRock, shock perches, etc...The tube length/spindle length of the 14 bolt is different than the 60. Things are a bit crowded on the 14 bolt but all fits well. The brake lines are on, but I may revisit these. I used a 30" and 8" premade line with the soft lines. The drivers side has a huge bow in the soft line but it doesn't rub, at least on anything I could see.
I am certainly going to have to revisit brakes. The pedal is mushier than before. I want to try the Dodge MC I still have with a gutted proportioning valve and see what that gets me. If that doesn't work, hydroboost is needed soon.
Oh, and I never got a chance to hook up the parking brake cables and give those a go before I had to call it a night. She drives well. I actually like the manners better than the 60. It makes me wonder if there is a problem with the Detroit in the 60 or if something else was going on. That 60 caused some sweet shimmy.
This evening I swapped the Dodge MC back in and gutted the proportioning valve. The brakes were sketch with the Eldo calipers and dual piston Ford calipers running off of the TJ MC. The TJ MC was functional with the drum brake 60, but was not working well at all with the new Eldo calipers.
There is plenty out there about this swap and I think I wrote about it quite a bit pages back. There are many who will tell you this is not the solution. What I will tell you is that I can finally stop from 45 MPH in about 20 feet. I had the MC and it didn't cost me any new money.
I cannot lock up the 40's like some report, but I am stopping better than I have since the one ton project began. I have a high stiff pedal as is usually reported with this swap. I will leave the tech on braking to the gurus, but this is going to work for me for now.
In gutting the proportioning valve I simply removed this rubber O ring. It can be easily removed without destroying it if you want to swap it back it in.
The Dodge MC next to the TJ MC. I think I addressed this pages back. I took it out after the 60 swap and shoved some rubber plugs in it and left it filled in the event I needed it in the future. It's been sitting on a shelt in the garage ever since.
Now it is back in service and doing what it should. I can revisit hydroboost in the coming months. At least I can stop now without setting off trouble codes and terrifying myself.
I went to work on the parking brake cables and of course those will not work out. I got some Teraflex TJ cables for stretches and the exposed cable is way too long. Gotta mess with that still.
I totally get what you are saying. That is what I was thinking about doing until Jason brought up snagging that plate.
If the 1/8" plate was welded around the circumference of the cut except for at the bolt surface where it would extend past the surface and preferably follow the angle of the diff cover for about a 1/4" and cut slits for more welds, would that damage to housing if it was ripped off?
You can see that there is about 2mm of the housing below the diff cover.
Or, just add a bunch of weld and grind smooth.
Get you some hard facing rods, run a few stringer beads that will last you awhile.
I was not kind to the rig today. I put it bad situations on purpose. It was a "first day out" of sorts. If you ever ask if there is junk you buy because you heard it was needed...the pinion guard proved it's worth.