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Labor Day Sale!Clayton Off Road - last day of the Labor Day special!FS: Wrangler RGB Multicolor Fog Light LEDs: Awesome Effect

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Unread 07-07-2013, 06:09 AM   #496
Jeepin72
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I've determined the only long term fix will be to source a new hub. However, in the meantime I don't want to continue to miss out on the season.

So I took and used some JB Weld on the broken hub. So far it has worked. That busted part is stuck on and does not seem to be able to come off. I went out yesterday and did some light wheeling and so far no leaks. Yeah, yeah, I've said that before.



I also discovered I had a leaking wheel cylinder on the drivers side. The last time I noticed this drum leaking, I blamed it on the damaged hub. Although in retrospect, it may have been the wheel cylinder. The leak didn't smell like gear oil and wasn't as viscous. I had just driven through a torrential rain storm so I blamed the difference on water in the drum. Maybe I was wrong! I think it was brake fluid.

Anyhow, replaced the wheel cylinder. Maybe I am just imagining things, but I think I am braking much better than at any point since the axle swap.



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Unread 07-07-2013, 04:05 PM   #497
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Two whole days of light wheeling without a leak!





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Unread 08-05-2013, 07:45 PM   #498
Jeepin72
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I figured out how to fix the broken hub, get rid of it! Yeah, not the obvious way.

I bought a SRW 14 bolt from Boyce Equipment. I am tired of wrenching on bearings and such and having no idea if what I am doing will make any difference. I know this axle will be true. Completely rebuilt, geared and locked, e-brake calipers and rotors, and tubes free of any old perches and shock tabs. It was far cheaper than their on-line calculator.

Only a few brackets to get and burn them in.

Blue Torch Fabworks pinion guard





Off Road Designs u-bolt style yoke



Undercover Fabworks shaved 14 Bolt diff cover



Clayton rear axle brackets



These will all be set up as high clearance just like on the 60. These are parts from a larger kit. I spoke with Adam at Clayton and he was more than happy to work with me on what I needed and not the whole kit. Once again, not but exceptional customer service from Clayton. I also learned that I was one of only about 10 people to ever get a 14 bolt truss from them.



We talked about my rear 60 and the 14 bolt for a bit. It was cool that Adam even cared about the build and where I was going and why. Once again, props to Clayton. As usual, all of Claytons stuff is 1/4" plate.

I don't have the axle in my hands yet, but I expect it soon. I may try and sell the rear 60...or use it as a project. Once the heep is back on its way, maybe I will tackle a spindle swap.
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Unread 08-05-2013, 10:09 PM   #499
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Welcome to the dark side

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-06-2013, 06:59 AM   #500
Jeepin72
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I figured going 14 Bolt was far more sensible than building or buying a 35 spline 60. Even buying a 14 bolt from Boyce was far cheaper than a crate 60. It came in around (obviously a little more) than what I thought I could build one for (purchase of axle, gears, locker, and disk brake set up).

I ended up working a gravy train of over time at work for a few weeks so I decided to pull the trigger with Boyce. By getting a built axle I really reduced the time involved in the swap.

I'm expecting a call from Mark Boyce any day now telling me the monster is ready to ship.
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Unread 08-07-2013, 09:00 PM   #501
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Good to hear man... No reason to be putting up with stuff you aren't happy with after all you put into the build.

Is it coming to you already shaved?
That "13" bolt should take care of all your issues.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 06:38 AM   #502
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Boyce is going to cut off the spring perches and ship it with a clean tube, but that is about it for the custom stuff. They will weld on new perches for you if you are doing something like swapping to another truck. When I told them it was going in a stretched and triangulated TJ they didn't even offer to weld on the brackets.

I will have to cut the lower lip off of the 14B. I should gain about a 1 1/4" of clearance that way. No need to have the ring gear turned down or cast welding.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 03:04 PM   #503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post

I will have to cut the lower lip off of the 14B. I should gain about a 1 1/4" of clearance that way. No need to have the ring gear turned down or cast welding.
This,
Its not worth the extra loss of strength for the small amount of clearance.
For 8 years I ran a shaved 14 bolt, I just lopped off the bottom lips and let the rocks grind it smooth. Take to much off and it puts the axle housing strength in question.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-08-2013, 08:37 PM   #504
Jeepin72
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In fact, I recalled you mention it somewhere in a thread when decided against doing something like the Ballistic Fab shave. I plan on cutting down the lip from the bottom edge of the diff cover so it parallels the ground with the pinion set roughly at the operating angle.
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Unread 08-09-2013, 06:37 AM   #505
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If you look at the basic design of the axle or any axle for that matter around the diff cover its all ways beefed up, why well cause that's the biggest opening in axle.
That's why they always add a cast lip or lips around that area that we like to grind off to gain clearance.
Take to much off and it puts the axle in housing back in question, take to much and then add plates to plug up the holes you risk the chance of tweaking the housing from all the welding.

That's why a fine line ( IMO ) should be drawn as to how much shave and how much plating after a shave or any at all.

If I was going to shave and plate a center section I would rig up a old cover as a fixture or jig to help keep that center section from tweaking during the welding and the cool down of the welds.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #506
Jeepin72
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The 14 bolt showed up today! Boyce sent it via RAC Trucking. At my request, they sent it on a truck with a lift gate and a pallet jack. Score. I was not responsible for getting it off of the truck.

It was shipped in high gloss black, The rotors and calipers were packed in bubble wrap and shrink wrap.



When I spoke with Boyce on the phone when I ordered the beast, I was told I would get a build sheet. Part numbers and such. I don't have that in hand at this point. Granted it may be in the mail or something. I will call tomorrow.

Big thing at this point is the calipers. I want to get the right soft lines and hope for an opportunity to start burning in brackets soon.



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Unread 08-19-2013, 05:52 PM   #507
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I haven't got much done with the axle. The same OT that has been such a boone is now hindering my ability to do the swap My wife wanted to go wheeling today so I didn't have the wrench time I thought I would. I planned on doing the shave today, and that didn't happen.

We spent a long day in the Golden Horseshoe on the bewildering unmapped trails. I must admit, I thought I'd done nearly every trail in the county, and today I found a number of trails I'd never been on before. That also means....LOST!





Blue Torch Fab pinion guard. Comes with hardware, but all the hardware on this axle is new, so I just re-used it.





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Unread 08-19-2013, 07:38 PM   #508
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She's a beauty! Lets get that thing in, and wheel for real!
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Unread 08-19-2013, 08:41 PM   #509
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Whats your schedule look like after your Ouray trip?

I've ordered some braided stainless steel soft brake lines that should work. I will run a hard line over the truss.

I think the e-brake cable I need is a LJ cable. Seems to be what is being run by those with e-brake caliper, stretch, and 14Bolt. I will hit up NAPA soon. The next two days I might not be able to get there.

Just sitting the brackets on the axle I don't think there will have to be much improv. I want to build the lower coil bucket up to match the height of the one's coming off. There is about 1/4" difference between the Ruff Stuff buckets and the new Clayton buckets. The Clayton bucket will let me position the coil where ever I see fit. The Ruff Stuff offset bucket came pre drilled.
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Unread 08-19-2013, 09:35 PM   #510
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Sounds like a day project to me

Although I'm available most evenings during the week, if you wanna spend 2 or 3 of em' banging it out! Let me know!
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