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ROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail ANOTHER Rockridge4wd Creation!! Spare Tire Carrier Delete Building a Bumper?

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Unread 04-12-2013, 06:10 AM   #421
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looks great!
Thanks man! The light is at the end of the tunnel. Today I want to do the front drive shaft and continue to monkey with the brakes.

My Ruff Stuff tie rod and drag link should be here today, but will most likely not be able to go in until Monday.

Should be a driver then!?

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Unread 04-12-2013, 04:05 PM   #422
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Rig is looking good!
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Unread 04-12-2013, 04:55 PM   #423
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Man this thing came along nicely, looks so good. Nice work!
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Unread 04-13-2013, 07:09 AM   #424
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Man this thing came along nicely, looks so good. Nice work!
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Originally Posted by rusty762 View Post
Rig is looking good!
Thanks guys. I am waiting for Monday with nervous anticipation. Hopefully, the steering goes in without an issue. Last night I was able to back it out of the shop and forward, reverse, and 4wd worked.

I got my spare tire the other day. I am planning on running 40" Goodyear MTR's.

I scored four used BFG KM2's for a decent price so I will run those till they die since I am out of money. I will keep the MTR as a spare and work on a four tire rotation.

Here is a 40" MTR next to a 40" BFG. The MTR is almost two inches taller. Granted it is not mounted, inflated, or under load. Both are listed as 39.8" by Tire Rack.

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Unread 04-13-2013, 08:15 AM   #425
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Rear drive shaft fit nicely. It is at 19 degrees.



What is the old adage about "assume"... I never put any calipers to the pinion yoke on the front 60. I always assumed it was a 1350 u-joint. Well, it's not! Much to my surprise the yoke that came on it was a 1330. I will address that when I get around to ordering a new front drive shaft.

I used a Dana Spicer 5-134x u-joint to go from 1310 to 1330.



When I was researching the build, I read about people who had front drive shaft issues and had to clearance their tunnel. I also read about pumpkin and oil pan problems with the famed 78-79 Dana 60. I did not run into either of those problems. You can see the drive shaft fits nicely in the tunnel.

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Unread 04-13-2013, 09:16 AM   #426
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Before:



After:

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Unread 04-13-2013, 09:22 AM   #427
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How I did the front AntiRock. I didn't use the antisway bar tabs supplied by Clayton. They were going to interfere with the draglink.









My new one ton steering:



Ha, just kidding. It was the old tie rod and some galvanized conduit we mocked up to back the Jeep out of the shop. The conduit lasted about one turn of the wheel!

9" wide wheels with 4.25" BS. The hub does not stick out.



The rear springs are now vertical.



Under the belly I am 22"
Under the axle tube I am 17"
My wheel base as it sits now - 101"

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Unread 04-13-2013, 12:41 PM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post

My new one ton steering:



Ha, just kidding. It was the old tie rod and some galvanized conduit we mocked up to back the Jeep out of the shop. The conduit lasted about one turn of the wheel!

Haha it took me a second. I thought to myself, that doesn't look right...
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:49 PM   #429
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This morning I got the tie rod and drag link built. I used a Ruff Stuff crossover kit. Two GM one ton TRE's for the drag link and two GM one ton offset TRE's for the tie rod. Two 54 inch sticks of DOM and bungs. This stuff is beefy 1/4 inch wall.

I also got their GM tapered inserts. I drilled the knuckles out with a 7/8" bit and dropped the tapered insert in.



With an offset TRE in place.



I am so glad I ordered the offset TRE's. I have about a 1/8" from the tie rod to the diff cover at full lock.



The set up:



I am not happy with the drag link and the track bar. When we mocked it up I liked what saw a lot better.







I think I might get a waggy pitman arm to bring that end of the drag link up.

Maiden voyage:







As you can see mother nature was punishing those of that live in the Colorado Rockies today. I never got the Jeep above 40, but the steering and tracking worked fine. Maybe the trackbar/draglink don't need a change?

What I can is the brakes stink. I did the MC swap, but I still don't like the brakes. I have to mash them to get the rig to stop. As I recall, most report a stiff pedal after this swap. I want to tinker a bit more before I post more about this.

I drove it two hours home today. I have no complaints (other than the brakes). Since the interstate was closed due to a massive amount of snow, even for us, I had a long drive to get accuanted with the rig. The Detroit in the rear didn't bother me at all.

It drives better in 4WD than before due to the high pinion front. I knew I had bad angles up front before. I didn't do much to address them since at trail speeds it was fine and I knew that polished turdy was going sooner than later.

A bit of luck: Apparently the speedo gear for 4.88's and 35 is the same one for 5.13's and 40's! Drove past a couple of those radar speed limit signs today, I am spot on!
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Unread 04-16-2013, 06:31 AM   #430
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Weld your axles tubes to the center chunks, other than that the rig looks great.

Jason.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 08:17 AM   #431
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Thanks for the idea Jason. I anticipate a lot of "touch up" modifications!
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Unread 04-16-2013, 05:53 PM   #432
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Looking at those angles on the track bar/ drag link I would say there close enough. Are you going to do a hydro assest?
I pmed ya back about the brakes, but in a nut shell I run rear 1/2 ton Chevys and a TJ master. Other than a bad caliper last year I could lock 39's up.

I would consider disc brakes or a Hydro boost but the Dodge MC 2500 works just most use it with disc in the rear and not drums.
Its all in stages now, so in time you will swap over to disc's.

Jason.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 06:55 PM   #433
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Yes, I plan on a ram assist in the future. I was hoping to get to that at some point this summer. I want to work out the kinks in what I have now before taking on a new project.

The Jeep has decent road manners so far, but I have not had the chance to get up to some decent speeds and hit a pothole!

I bled the lines again tonight and went for a test drive. I can't lock up at all.

While my wife was pumping the pedal, I was watching the calipers. One does not appear to be moving at all. Is it a bad caliper (a reman)? Or is there not enough pressure to move the caliper.

I thought about a hydroboost, and that me end up being what I do. When I was thinking about allocating money earlier on, one of the reasons I did not do the disk swap in the rear was to save the money for the hydroboost!
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Unread 04-16-2013, 07:47 PM   #434
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A junkyard hydro boost will run ya around 30-40 bucks max and would be perfect.
Yes ive seen calipers right out of the box that are bad, so maybe thats the case here.

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Unread 04-16-2013, 10:15 PM   #435
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So after spending the evening reading threads on Pirate - I am no closer to a conclusion than I was before. I did learn a lot...(I will quailfy this with I am no brake master or I would not be here at this point with this problem).

What I had:

4 Wheel disk -Supposedly the rears are the same as Explorer from what read on a post from a relative expert
From what I read - the PV in Jeeps is the same, regardless of disk/disk or disk/drum

Mr. N and other have some useful info. If I read it right:

Ford OEM MC bore is 1 1/16
2005 TJ is 1 inch or 1 1/16
Ram 2500 is 1 1/4 or 1 5/16
Ford MC bore for disk/drum is 1 1/4

I read in Mr. N's thread about how to measure the piston bore. I can't make sense of the MC I took out of my TJ (I bought it with disk/disk and have no idea if it was a mod or factory and same for MC). When I put the calipers up to the inside of the bore I get about 1.36" and when I do it just to the edges of the inner plastic molding on the face of the piston I get 1.23." This leads me to believe it is 1 1/4". Can that be? This is all larger than I understand it to(should) be.

This relates to many posts about the 2500 MC being a problem more than a solution. Granted that seems to be more in the case of using stock Jeep calipers and not one ton's. There is the "E350" swap out there. I havent had time to read up on that tonight.

After reading a number of the posts about retaining the 1" bore Jeep MC for more clamping pressure as opposed to the more fluid pushed by the 2500 MC, I am inclined to put the Jeep MC back in. Now I am confounded in that I don't see how mine was one inch or 1 1/16. According to the Mr N. thread the TJ only had a 1" or 1 1/16" bore, but there is no indicatoin in that thread of what TJ got what. I could assume I should have a 1 1/16 due to the disk/disk? If so, is it the same as the Ford 1 1/16?

All that said, I feel no slack in my pedal which leads me to believe the push rod is where it needs to be, at least in gross terms. So why is one caliper not engaging? Do I need to dial it out more to push more fluid?

One exception that was always noted on Pirate was that the MC change was not need unless you went one ton calipers...

So, is it all about hydro boost or is there a more fundamental problem? Bad caliper, push rod...

Well that is where I leave the day... I can't come to an acceptable stop and...

when I went out into the garage to get my calipers and original MC, I found a nail in my rear passener side 40 from my drive around the block
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