I have to finish burning in the brackets on the front, lock and gear, and reassemble with all the new parts. Not much right! Then tie rod and drag link.
I may also have to do a MC swap. I am not sure if I will since my vehicle came with disk brakes at all four conrners. From all of my reading, the Dodge 2500 MC is the way to go to push the dual piston calipers. It is a direct swap into a Jeep.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. It is also nice to be running out of parts to buy.
Those are Hoover's tires. He must be feeling rich these days. Take off some KM2 40's and put brand new ones on.
Yesterday, I got the front Clayton high steer brackets for a raduis arm coil sprung TJ welded onto the Ford Dana 60. As was previously mentioned, some modifications had to be made to run the axle full width. If this thing was narrowed to 66" some of these problems would be eliminated.
You previously saw a picture of the spring perch and main assembly welded onto the short side. Here is how the LCA bracket on the short side ended up under that main assembly. This picture is of the axle upside down. The inner plate of the LCA bracket is welded to the cast on its radius, and to the main plate on its upper edge.
The outside plate is welded to the tube and the upper assembly. I added a lower bridge to join the two plates. That bridge was also tied into the cast. I threw a JJ in it and there is more than enough range of motion.
Here you can see where the cuts I made to the cast landed us. I could have cut less of the cast in hindsigt. You can see the plug welds remained.
Here is looking at the bottom of the long side. Notice that the brackets are all high clearance. Nothing hangs below the tube. Out front is the multi location trackbar bracket.
I built a "truss" over the pumpkin to weld the drivers side raduis arm to. I did not want to rely on welding it straight to cast. I know that is a contradiction of sorts to things previously stated, but why not build a bridge.
I used 2x4 3/16 wall rectangular tube. I cut the rectangular tube in half on the short side to minize the height of the bridge. I left 3/4 of a bend on the back side and cut front clean to keep it as low as possible.
The reason being is that the radius arm bracket would end up way too high if I didn't. As it was I had to cut 2.5" off of the radius arm bracket. The Clayton radius arm brackets are both JJ's that you build after welding.
I will use a hole saw and cut a hole for the breather tube.
I plan on fabricating some gussets to fill in the front of the bridge around the diff cover of the for added rigidity. I also will fab up a link tieing the bridge to the tombstone, and the tombstone to the trackbar bracket.
So as was previosly mentioned, the control arm brackets had to be movd out one inch since the pumpkin is where it is on a full width. I feared I would have to move out the lower coil retainers as well.
Luckily, with some mods, I ended up only 1/4" to the outside of where Clayton's schematics places them.
What is troubling, is that the passenger side coil retainer seems to be in conflict with the trackbar tower. I didn't notice this until it was too late. I have some ideas on how to modify this if it turns out to be a problem.