I will still be on the 35's for a while. I opened Pandora's box (again) and now I have a whole pile of parts to accumulate! So far to be able to sling the rear 60 under the vehicle i am looking at:
1) Clayton Truss - I am intrigued by the GenRight Truss that stands the JJ's on a vertical axis instead of horizontal. GenRight says it will reduce anitsquat. Unfortunately, it is almost $300.00 whereas the the Clayton Truss is only $140.00. From what I have read, moving the LCA brackets up to a high clearance location will also reduce antisquat preventing the front end from unloading. If I understand this correctly, the more horizontal the LCA is the better off you are and the closer the axle end of the rear control arms are together the better of you are.
2) LCA Brackets, Shock Tabs, and Coil Buckets from GenRight. The LCA Brackets and Shock Tabs will be welded on in a high clearance fashion.
3) A Poison Spyder Customs Bombshell differential cover.
Things to consider:
1) Ruff Stuff or Ballistic Fab disc brake brackets.
2) Rotors and calipers. (for a 77 Chevy from what I was told)
3) Aftermarket shafts.
Axle is from a 79 Dodge
Full Float 30 spline shafts
8 lug x 6.5 Pattern
Hey, you guys rock! Making a difference in your community only takes interest. I dedicate 40 hours a week (usually more) to doing what we all should do. Look out for one another, look out for the common good!
When I get around to doing a parking brake... plan is to do a dual lever independent right/left setup. You might consider that while you are going through the build from scratch stage. Especially with the front wheel drive the atlas gives you. Just a thought
I like the idea of the independent parking brakes. It would work real sweet with the Atlas. I will have to pick your brain a bit more about that one!
I haven't done too much serious planning on this yet because I still want to get a different rear axle, so I'm holding off on the parking brake until then. Shouldn't be too hard... hardest part for you would likely be the interior challenges of trying to set up two handles.
I also want to set up brake interlocks on the front wheels so I can lock just one or both of the front wheels independently as well
Originally Posted by Jeepin72
From what I have read, moving the LCA brackets up to a high clearance location will also reduce antisquat preventing the front end from unloading. If I understand this correctly, the more horizontal the LCA is the better off you are and the closer the axle end of the rear control arms are together the better of you are.
I'm not real familiar with link suspension geometry but isn't design all about balancing the factors? Any down sides of those proposed changes? I didn't think there was anything in a link suspension that was straight up "better off" simply the "more" you do any one thing.
A useful thead about long arms. There are many, way to many, but my understanding of it all says I need to move the rear LCA mounts up to centerline of the axle tube. Not just for clearnace, but for better geometry.
I started looking into "cutting brakes" the other day. This could be the answer to the selectable parking brake?
Yeah I know the above thread is really about a radius arm (up front) it is still informative.
Clayton Truss - I considered doing something like a Blue Torch Fab or Ballistic truss where the diff cover bolts to the truss, but then 4 link brackets are welded to the top of the truss. I wasn't sure of the unintended changes in geometry. The Clayton truss would have shorter that either of those once built. I figures Clayton builds it the where they intend the UCA's to be in relation to the LCA's.
LCA Brackets - 10 degree from Ruff Stuff
Shock Tabs - Ruff Stuff
AntiRock Tab Set - Ruff Stuff
Coil Buckets - Ruff Stuff - Got some ordered with and off-set. This should allow me to put the coil an inch or two infront of the centerline of the tube. When I stretched the Jeep I was able to get the axle way back to about 99" wheel base. The problem was the coils were canted. This should allow me to get the Dana 60 back as far as I can and keep the coils vertical.
Poison Spyder Bombshell diff cover.
I am still trying to sort out the disk brak conversion. I am leaning toward the Ballistic fab weld on brackets that use GM front calipers. The problem is then, what do I do about a parking brake. Time to keep reading.
There are some trick options putting the disk off of the TC...but they cost some $$$.