Yeah, gear oil is pretty noxious stuff! Thanks man. She is a good woman. She puts up with me, is a great mother, and doesn't hate my friends! She actually likes this stuff. She sat in the garage with us while we wrenched in Moab, what more can a guy ask. I couldn't ask for better son (at least for now - if he is anything like I was - I am in for some real trouble in a couple of years).
I had a co-worker come by today to take a look at the hub. This guy is on his second career. He owned his own shop in Denver for oh only 40 years. He specialized in building custom vehicles and had a keen interest in building hopped up Jeeps for ice racing. He is rebuilding two Willies right now.
And...here it comes...he said he has never seen a hub like the one I have! So we determined it is a Budd (101823). It is stamped inside the hub. He was familiar with Budd, just not this configuration. I spent the night researching Budd. All of their hub info out there has to do with HEAVY trucks (10 lug, Meritor axles, Rockwell, etc..) The wheels and front hubs seem to still be common for duallys. I still haven't out junk about the rear hubs they were making more than 30 years ago.
So here is the hub with the collar on it. Notice how the bearing cup is sitting about 1/8" above the machined surface of the hub. The collar wants to grab onto this. You can pound it on, but it comes off and I spew gear oil all over.
Another shot of the hub without the collar. The oil seal presses into the collar, so yes, it is needed. Notice the sloped sides of the machined surface of the hub fading away from the bearing cup.
Here is the collar. Notice the lack of the sloped suface. It is nearly flat. More concave than flat. Certainly not the same slope as the hub.
Here is a look and the bottom of the collar. Notice the ridge at the center of the ring. It sticks up about a 16th of an inch. The new gashes on it are from me using a seal puller to remove it.
Notice that the bottom of the collar is machined differently than the top. The bottom is the circuference of the bearing cup and the top is machined to fit the oil seal. The oil seal(s) have all fit well. I put the bearing cup in just the collar as if I was installing the race through the collar and it is an uber tight fit.
Another picture of the collar
Collar on hub with bearing cup still in place. The collar can be pressed on but comes off easily. Thus the problem.
Notice the gap between the hub and the collar. The other hub does not look like this. There is a line that travels the circumference of the hub in about the same place indicating a flush fit?
Here are the collar and the hub with the bearing cup removed. The surfaces where the bearing cup on both the hub and the collar line up seemingly perfectly. The machined surface is about 5/8" which is about the same with as the bearing cup.
1) Pound bearing cup through collar and into hub. The race will "grab" the collar due to the uber tight tolleance and pull it down snug.
2) Gring the collar to match the hub, tack weld, and then pound in bearing cup.
3) Continue to try and find some replacement hubs.
4) Get a new axle! (not feasible right now - at least yet).
When I got the axle there was no sign of a leak in the drum. In fact, there more indication that it hadn't been removed in a long time and was merely dusty. If you look several pages back this particular drum/spindle cause some major headaches. I knocked the collar "loose." Now what to do about seating it.
I joint a Ram Charger forum today! Maybe I will post up there tomorrow to see if those guys know. They seem to have had at least some discussion about the Budd hubs, just not my problem.