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post #466 of 577 Old 04-28-2013, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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I looked in the cup of the stub shaft today and noticed a defect. Based on what you said Jason, this seems like a more probable cause.



It is not pronounced, but it makes sense. The shafts were a new assembly. It would explain the outward leverage the break displays.

Marks observed on the OEM ears. This could be "chicken or the egg" Did they come from the launch or not?



In other news, the fenders faired well. I took a jig saw and a grinder with me. I anticipated blowing out my fenders. I didn't! The only damage was this.


I had previously trimmed my inner fenders with the 35's. Apparently one area caught and was tweaked. My fenders faired far better than I anticipated. I am going to put the high line on the back burner and focus on brakes and steering. Oh yeah, and fix the broken junk.

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post #467 of 577 Old 04-28-2013, 10:33 PM
jason m
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If they touched with enough extra steel present ( which yours look like they had plenty of extra ) then yes they could put so much extra force on the under a full lock and just snap the weakest shaft, in this case the OEM inner.

Do you remeber if it broke under a hard turn? Those other marks are more commen to when the shafts breaks and then the ears slap one an other as the tourqe releases the force or your still under load.

The only other thing I can think of as to why ( using the same idea as above ) is your somehow your over steering the joints ( well in this case your shafts inner cups ) and it casued the leverage break, its for sure a werd one but im really pretty certon is not becasue of U-joint cup walking out.

I tack weld my cups in at the 12-3-6-9 spots, works real well and insures them never to walk out. A simple little grinding is all thats needed to remove the joint if need be.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #468 of 577 Old 04-29-2013, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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I was turning, but not at full lock. It was about a half turn of the wheel. (My wheel turns about one and a half rotations to lock)
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post #469 of 577 Old 04-29-2013, 08:19 PM
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Twisted the splines on the rear?!? There was nothing that should have caused that!

My Build!


Real Jeeps are built, not "bolt-on"!
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post #470 of 577 Old 04-29-2013, 10:15 PM
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoovail View Post
Twisted the splines on the rear?!? There was nothing that should have caused that!
Other than the fact that they are 30 spline 1.375" shafts and 40 inch tire, ya its not going to hold up for a long or even a short while in the rocks.

Time for 35 spline or a 14 B

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #471 of 577 Old 04-30-2013, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, that's what Dutchman told me too! I was hoping that with chromo's I could make the 30 splines last, but that was a crack pipe dream apparently. Dutchman told me to run it till it breaks, not that there is much of another choice. Should I run the OEM shaft and keep the chromo as a spare, or run the Dutchman and keep the spares as spares? Will it break at the splines?

Decisions, Decisions...

Go 35 spline (have the spindles bored, new locker, and shafts)(Not sure where to get it bored, but there has to be somewhere in Colorado! - my spindle has a 1.4" ID now)

Go 14 bolt (whole axle axle build)

Go 38" tire (cost of tires...the 38" MTR is only 1 lb per tire lighter, but less diameter obviously...the 38" KM2 has a 6 lbs difference)
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post #472 of 577 Old 04-30-2013, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoovail View Post
Twisted the splines on the rear?!? There was nothing that should have caused that!
Yeah. I was dumbfounded when I saw it. I thought it was an optical illusion at first. I kept wiping away gear oil thinking it was a trick on the eyes.

I can only assume it was when I was towing TDIJ off the trail that morning, or the drive out of Gold Bar Rim in rear two low.

Either way, 30 splines and 40's are known not to play nicely.

I am leaning toward looking into doing the 35 spline conversion. But I really need to price it out. No matter what route I choose (outside of tires) it won't be happening till next winter. I may be able to pull off tire sooner.
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post #473 of 577 Old 04-30-2013, 10:03 PM
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Not to burst your bubble but the drop in tire size really won't make much of a difference. I had a friend last year blow a 30 spline axle on his 38" super swamper and a other guy on a trail run that had those 37" H1 tires and rims.

35 spline is the only way to deal with this problem, or yes you know its coming A...........14 bolt.
I helped build a jig for a the friend who snapped his 60 last year to bore the spindles out to 1.5".

First off no pics sorry, ok we took the ID of the bore, cut a slug out of aluminum round stock to fit the oem bore, had to use a lathe to get it perfect.
Drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of the slug, then instead of a drill bit inside the hole saw we used a 1/4" piece of round stock to fit the inside the hole were the drill bit would sit.
Insert the slug into the bore, put the 1/4" rod into the slug and then start drilling with a good size drill and a 1.5" hole saw. We used a 1.5" hole saw and it worked perfect as most hole saws will cut a few thou. over there normall size.

The Alu slug acts as a guide , the 1/4" rod keeps it center and the hole saw, well it does its job and cuts it open. We used a lot of greese on the 1/4" rod and once its done it pops into the inner tube, then just slide it out when you pull the carrier to install 35 spline ( insert locker/spool choice here ).

Or just install a 14 bolt

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #474 of 577 Old 05-20-2013, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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So after a few weeks of not wrenching I got back into the shop today. In the days following the Moab trip I took the rear hub apart several times trying to fix the leak. I ended up knurling the lip on the collar and pounded it back on and ran a bead of RTV around it. No leaks so far.

Today, I pulled the broken inner shaft and installed two new Yukon 4340 35 spline inners. At least I have 4WD again.



I used two new u-joints (Spicer SPL55-4X). I didn't get a chance to have some one turn the wheel to full lock and watch the shafts, but I will. I think I will fab up a steering stop if needed.

I still don't have a parking brake that works. I need to address my rear drive shaft. I don't think I mentioned it, but I dragged a new Tom Woods one ton rear DS to Moab and attempted to put it in to no avail. The 1350 output flange on the Atlas and the flange on the shaft did not line up just ever so slightly. I called Tom Woods and they said to just run a drill bit through the holes since the output flange is threaded and the DS is not.

I ordered a new Dutchman shaft to replace the twisted one. I hope the shafts can last the summer. I don't have the desire to do another axle swap or bore the spindles right now!

I've got some odds and ends to clean up. Hopefully, that is all the wrenching for a while.
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post #475 of 577 Old 05-20-2013, 10:31 PM
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Paint the shafts and turn the wheels under full lock to lock, if the paint is rubbed off then they touch, grind them with a round stone on your grinder to clear. it should not void any thing with the shafts.

Just do grinding of the inner C's, trust me you dont want stops, you will need to address the real problem agian once you swap over to full hydro or assest, then YOU cant run any stops on the axle you have to let the ram bottom the steering out as the stop.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #476 of 577 Old 05-21-2013, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
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I hadn't thought about that with the stops.
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post #477 of 577 Old 05-23-2013, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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This evening I put the front end up on some jack stands and had my wife turn the steerig wheel to full lock while I rotated the tires. The ears had more than ample room in the cups! At least one thing seems to be working out.

The rear end seems to be leaking again. There was some gear oil on the inside of the rear tire again. It is minute, but I know what is coming. That collar must be backing off again. :
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post #478 of 577 Old 05-26-2013, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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I got the rear 1350 drive shaft installed today. I tried to install it a while back when I was in Moab. The bolt holes on the cardan side (Tom Woods jig) did not line up to the threaded output flange of Advanced Adapters. It was not off by much, but it was off.

I called Tom Woods and they were incredulous that the thing was off. They said the misalignment was Advanced Adapters doing. They said I should wallow out the the unthreaded bolt holes on the cardan and mount'er up. They said this would not void the warranty.

A 1/2" bit did slid right through the bolt holes. I ran it through the holes for a bit and used a step bit to get to 9/16". I don't own a half inch drill so getting a 9/16 bit around here was out. I bolted it up and am off.

Old and new

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post #479 of 577 Old 05-26-2013, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't pulled the leaking hub yet. It seems to leak, and not leak. The first time I noticed it leaking again was after driving in a rain storm. I certainly was not pure gear oil.

I noticed it again this morning. Again, not pure gear oil but I shot a bunch of brake cleaner in the drum hours earlier (and drove a while). I know my gear oil is good. I just changed it (again) when I pulled the shaft after Moab so I had an idea of how much was in there and the shape it was in.

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post #480 of 577 Old 06-01-2013, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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I've been wondering if building a trashed junkyard front end was any cheaper than buying a Dynatrac. I know some of you have done it for dollars. Here is what I spent on my project. It is not exact, I am sure I missed some receipts. All I kept from the junkyard front axle was the tubes, center section, inner C, knuckles, and spindles. Everything else was replaced, even the spindle studs and nuts.

- Front Axle (chromos inner and outer, u-joints, master install kit, R & P, Locker and parts, gears, bearings, seals, high steer arm and hardware, machining of knuckle, Warn hubs, lug nuts, track bar, brackets) - $5,650.00

- Steering (Links and TRE's, Pitman arm(s) and tapers) - $440.00

- Crap related to shocks - $66.00 ( for some reason I don't have the receipt, but there were new Bilsteins front and rear)

- Shop Supplies - $413.00

- Rear Drive Shaft - $440.00

- Coils - $456.00

- Misc - $85.00

- Brakes (Calipers, MC, Line) - $617.00

- Tires - (used with mount and balance and one new spare) - $2345.00

- Cost - $10, 512.00
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