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post #451 of 577 Old 04-19-2013, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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I bench bled the new MC (and the TJ MC before I put it back in). I had the instructions! Not a terribly hard process. After spending a couple of days reading (frantically) threads by Mr. Blaine, Geberhard, Ballavista and Mr.N over on Pirate - I came to the conclusion that the MC swap was a poor choice.

Yes some do it and have the ability to stop. But if my feeble mind understood half of what I read this is why I did it in a nut shell - Larger piston = more volume but less pressure (clamping force) and smaller piston = less volume but more pressure. Since all my parts were working, I needed more pressure - clamping force (thus the old MC).

Also, there was a lot of comment on being as close to the OEM brake system (for the brakes not the vehicle) as possible. Which in a post on page 29 the bore size for Ford and Jeep are acknowledged. The Jeep MC was the better choice.

After spending the night reading, I also discovered one of the proponents for the Ram MC swap later took his out and replaced the Jeep MC and did hydroboost!



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post #452 of 577 Old 04-21-2013, 07:47 PM
tdij
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Tomorrow is the day... Are the brakes up to snuff?

Also... Keep me in the loop on your timeframe... If it is slow I am going to try and sneak out early and might be able to roll out with you.

BOBCAT: TDI powered YJ

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post #453 of 577 Old 04-26-2013, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Maiden Voyage in Moab.

The rig ran great to Moab, UT (about 5 hours from my house). I could not complain.

I had some leaky front calipers and had to continually check the the banjo bolts on the way down. That problem appears to be solved with tightening.

My OX locker cable rubbed on the tire and has the rash to show it. Routing this cable will be a work in progress. I have bent in a way that I like it, but likes to worm its way out of that and rub on the tire. I may end up routing it under the tube and away from the tire. If I do, I will need to fab a skid to protect it.


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post #454 of 577 Old 04-26-2013, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdij View Post
Tomorrow is the day... Are the brakes up to snuff?

Also... Keep me in the loop on your timeframe... If it is slow I am going to try and sneak out early and might be able to roll out with you.
The brakes worked well enough. I could hold it on ledges, inch on ledges, and the fins. That part seemed to work. Do I want more, yes!

Could it be better? Yes. The panic stop on the road is almost non-existant.


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post #455 of 577 Old 04-26-2013, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Cheese on Gold Bar Rim











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post #456 of 577 Old 04-26-2013, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Worst trip to Moab:

Broken front Dana 60 inner short side shaft
Leak in the Atlas at the output
Leak in the rear 60 - Both rear axles worked themselves loose and spewer gear oil and there is a persistant leak from the hub
Front trackbar loosened its jam nut
Damaged OX lockercable
Won the CEL codes of P0171 and 174

It all started with this:



Best guess is that the buddy (who I will not name) that pressed in these u-joints jacked them up. I was re-assembling my axle with another buddy while he did that. I recall he said he was having trouble with one, but then said it was all good.

Post breakage, it appears there was a smashed needle bearing in the top of the cap. This would mean that even if the cap was pushed by a press to the location it needed to be and the cirlcle clip was installed, it would be short lived.

It seems the circle clip shot off and allowed the cap to back off of the u-joint. It later bound up destroying one side of the cap and ripping off both of the ears on the short side shaft.


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post #457 of 577 Old 04-26-2013, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't even finish one trail without breakage, leaks, and frustration. Welcome to a shake down trip!


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post #458 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 01:06 AM
tdij
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
I didn't even finish one trail without breakage, leaks, and frustration. Welcome to a shake down trip!
That is a lie... Your first trail was a success... You towed me out after I broke two turns in!!

BOBCAT: TDI powered YJ

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post #459 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 09:46 AM
jason m
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Very odd spot to have a 60 shaft fail cause of a cap backing out. Not saying it not because of that just noramlly you see the ears bends or rip off and smash into the stub.
This to me looks like there is no damage to the outer stub at all which again you normally see the two grind together when a cap walks out, werd.
You got the rest of the shaft, hows that look?

Try swapping to studs for the rear FF shafts that has worked best for me in the past and I forget but are you welded in the rear or have a locker?

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...

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post #460 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I have the shards, I will take a picture and load them up tonight. I thought it was an odd spot as well. I initially chalked it up to the shaft being from a 1996 axle. Maybe it was already weak? One of the guys with us, a mechanic, came up with the cap backing out theory.

The chromo stub seems to be just fine. The caps are still tight and it doesn't appear to be deformed. I wondered when I did chromo stubs if would be moving a weak point elsewhere! I hit the brakes as soon as I heard the tell tale sound and saw parts scattering across the slick rock.

I have a Detroit in the rear axle. I pulled the shafts today to redo the RTV and throw some blue Loctite in the flange bolts. I discovered one of my new Dutchman chromo's was twisted at the splines! WTF. This trip was hard on the rig. I will post a pic later tonight as well.

I swear, Gold Bar Rim is not all that hard. I am not throttle heavy and I don't let the rig bounce much when climbing. I can't win right now.


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post #461 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Here are the broken ears. You can see that one ear still has its cap and circle clip. The other ear did not retain its cap and the circle clip is at the top of Gold Bar Rim. The ear with the circle clip was still on the trunion of the u-joint, it did not launch. The one without the circle clip is what rocketed across the slick rock. The chromo stub still has both caps and circle clips. It feels nice and tight like the day the u-joint was pressed in.





Looks like I will be calling Dutchman on Monday. I am not sure if they will warranty this shaft or not. It is one of their 4340 Chromos. I know I am at the upper end of the rear 60 by running 40's, but one trail...really?



The guy I bought this axle off of ran it under a CJ8 with several different 40's, even 42's, and broke a shaft with some 40 inch Maxxis stickies. He used OEM shafts. He went to a 14 bolt since he wanted to keep the stickies.

I take one trail? Could it be from when I hauled TDIJ out? There was a couple of hard shocks as we crested fins to get him out. Nothing crazy though. I am disappointed.


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post #462 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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So there was the abovementioned rear axle leak. I was leaking from the flanges as mentioned. I tightened the bolts (new ARP stainless bolts). That fixed that leak. I had a leak that persisted from the drum. I figured there was one of two things going on:

1) The differential was too full since I have an aftermarket diff cover and the fluid was pushing out to the wheel bearings (like it is supposed to) but there was too much and the hub was hold more than the desired amount. So, it was draining out through the oil seal in the back of the drum and ultimately out of the drum
2) The oil seal in the back of the drum had failed

I was wrong on both accounts.

I have driven the Jeep for about a week including the five hour drive to Moab. No leaks at all.

I pulled the drum off today and discovered that a "collar" (not sure of its actual name) had separated from the drum. This collar sits where the race is. It is what the oil seal presses into. It had come off of the hub/drum and was allowing gear oil to drain freely into the drum.

Here you can see the collar and seal sitting nicely on the spindle.



Drum/hub with no collar or seal and bearing sitting in its race.



What it should look like (I think).



The collar



The drum and race



So I took a block of wood and pouned the collar back on. I was still able to take a seal puller and work the collar loose by prying progressively around it. Is that normal? I am not sure.

I pounded it back on again and reassembled. Drove for a while and no leaks.

It's now been parked for about two hours... Leaks....


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post #463 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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On a positive note, I was able to fix the leaking Atlas with a new rubber washer supplied by Advanced Adapters. I had two in my can o nuts. I was able to make my OX locker cable behave with some hose clamps. The rigidity over the heavy tie wrap was key.


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post #464 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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I hate to tap out, this build is about learning. Anyone with the knowledge, know how to fix the drum issue?


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post #465 of 577 Old 04-27-2013, 11:25 PM
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Still not buying the cap walking out can cause that much damage, yes it can brake a shaft but not like that, and ive seen quite a few shaft break.
But what it does look like is the outer stub that didn't break might have caused the break.
All that extra meet around the ear made contact with your inner axle cup and tore it right off, kinda pryed it off.

Follow me? My rear steer use's stock inners ( Chevy ) but 1541 after market 35 spline outers, I had to grind down the outer ear surface becasue there is so much extra, the ears touch the inner cup of the axle c.

Now what contradicts what I am saying is there is no signs of them touching, so maybe since it broke so soon it didn't have time to make a ware pattern.

The hubs, thats another odd one, got to think about that one.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...

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