Jeepin72's Build Thread - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 577 Old 01-12-2012, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: "The Kingdom"
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Dana 30 Alloy USA Tube Seal - Loose

A while back I had a Dana 30 Alloy USA tube seal break loose. It would turn in the tube around the shaft. Alloy USA would not warranty it and called "installer failure."

I ended up having to pull the shaft because I could not get it to press back in tightly. I discovered that part of the rubber seal had worn. I had to use some RTV adhesive and pressed it back in. Let it dry for about 12 hours. I have had no issues.

Loose Alloy USA thread

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post #32 of 577 Old 01-22-2012, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Blower Motor Resistor Replacement

I used these two useful links to determine why my fan was only blowing on high.

Blower Motor Resistor

and

Blower Motor Switch

I ordered the part from my local dealership for $26.00 out the door. They had to order it. It took two days to come in.



It took me 35 minutes from boots on to boots off. I used one phillips head screwdriver, 8mm and 10mm sockets, needle nose pliars, 1/4" ratchet, and one Coors.

I had to separate the green connector and move the ends out of the way. This was easiest with the glove box off.



I was then able to remove the two 8mm bolts holding the resistor in place.



I was able to easily remove the red tab by pushing from the bottom on the center catch.





At first I could not get the harness and resistor to separate. Duh, push the tab.



Reassemble, everything works.
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post #33 of 577 Old 01-22-2012, 05:42 PM
hoovail
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Central Colorado
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That's funny I just went through a similar process. Only I didn't have fan speed #3. Turns out it was the switch. I managed to rebuild it. Works good now! I bought relays, and have to install them so it doesn't melt again.

My Build!


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post #34 of 577 Old 01-28-2012, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Rusty's Steering Box Brace

A simple install for some piece of mind.

Initially Rusty's sent me the wrong part. They paid for return shipping. They did get me the right part.

It still did not fit well. The brackets hit the steering box bolt forgings. I was able to frech them in with different hardware. Luckily I bought some 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 grad 8's before the install.

The instructions that came with the part had nothing to do with this part.

The brace and hardware.



It came with grade 5 bolts. I went and got some 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 grade 8 hardware. Thank god I did. The one inch grade five did not work.






Last edited by Jeepin72; 01-29-2012 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Typs
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post #35 of 577 Old 02-04-2012, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Charcoal Canister (EVAP) Removal - Part 1

So I finally have my Clayton 5" stretch in my hands. I took them three weeks to build it. Maybe a sign of the times

Anyway, I have been taking care of some of the small stuff getting ready to do the stretch.

This week was taking care of the EVAP system. On 2005 TJ's it was smartly placed in the passenger side rear wheel well. Needless to say it can't be here with the stretch. I am not doing a fuel cell or in the tub relocation. My family rides with with me, so cutting the system down and keeping underneath is a must.

I did some research and found some useful threads.

Rubicon EVAP

TJ Stuff

Other Stuff

What it came down to was I did what I thought was best with where I am at in my project. I used everyting I learned and did a mix.

This is waht I started with. Some part were perviously cut out to make room for the Currie AntiRock.





Removing the EVAP system in the 2005 TJ was easy. I have only one fuel system line and one electrical line. Remove the bolts holding the assembly in and you have this.



The canister and EVAP sensor removed.







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post #36 of 577 Old 02-04-2012, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Charcoal Canister (EVAP) Removal - Part 2

Now everyting I read said to bypass the canister. It has no ties to the computer.

The canister.



I used some AN fittings to join the hoses and bypass the canister,





The system in its smallest form.



I elected to put it back on some steel for now. I trimmed things up and made a whole ton of room. I can go smaller if need in the future









I used some rubber sheeting to cover it up for now. Every weeked I am getting closer to the stretch
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post #37 of 577 Old 02-11-2012, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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EVAP Canister Removal and Relocate

After hacking down the system I knew I could get it smaller. I recently scored a SMAW welder, but I haven't been able to practice yet. Fabrication was limited.

I bought this bracket. It was in the duct isle of my local hardware store. Meant for a 6" post.



I bent the top up to clear the EVAP system.



Drilled holes to hold the EVAP and mounted it. After mocking it up it worked. I was able to cut out more sheet metal and pushing this thing up against the rear of the tub near where the tail light wires and the third brake light pins are.





Hit it with rattle can black.



The new EVAP unit (minus charcoal canister and new bracket and reduced plumbing).







Covered it with some rubber mat so it's not taking any direct hits.



The -10 AN fittings

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post #38 of 577 Old 02-11-2012, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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A notion I might explore as I get closer to the stretch and having to drop the tank again is fitting the entire EVAP system between the tank and the tub. We will see.
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post #39 of 577 Old 02-11-2012, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Oh yeah, NO CEL's at all so far!!!!! Not that there should be. This was just an elaborate way to bypass the charcoal canister.
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post #40 of 577 Old 02-16-2012, 04:56 PM
hoovail
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Location: Central Colorado
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There is a TJ stretch article in the April issue of JP magazine, if you're interested. There isn't a ton of info, but you might want to take a look if you already haven't!

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post #41 of 577 Old 02-19-2012, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Thanks for the info. I will take a look.
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post #42 of 577 Old 02-19-2012, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Preparing for a Universal Rear AntiRock

I am going to keep my arms and 45" from my TJ AntiRock kit. I got a 43" tube from Currie from their universal kit and new bushings for the tube.

Cleaned and ready for paint.



The new bushings



Painted



I will weld in the tube once the stretch is completed.
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post #43 of 577 Old 02-19-2012, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Clayton Five Inch Stretch - Painting

Upper Shock Mounts



Lower Shock Mounts



Frame Notches for the shocks



Upper - Frame Reinforcement & Lower Notches for the upper coil retainer



Coil Retainers



Primed and ready for some rattle can black

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post #44 of 577 Old 02-19-2012, 01:28 PM
ollieg843
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Sweet build!
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post #45 of 577 Old 02-19-2012, 01:29 PM
kyle_craig
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Location: White Bear Laaake, Minnesooota
Posts: 2,745
Garage
Parts are piling up nicely! Looking forward to seeing this thing stretched out!
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