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post #16 of 577 Old 12-30-2011, 11:40 AM
hoovail
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^^

I will definitely be asking you some questions!

How's the tank coming? I've been super busy at work and haven't got a chance to get any measurements and pics. Do you still need them?



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post #17 of 577 Old 12-30-2011, 11:42 AM
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I just saw your other post. I'll try to get them sooner than later.


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post #18 of 577 Old 12-30-2011, 02:50 PM
dayriesw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
The Clayton skid is a monster. Earlier this year I found myself at about 13,000 feet on Wise Mountain with a problem. I turned and looked at my Jeep and noticed the bolts that secure the cross member to the frame on the passenger side had somehow backed themselves out and were gone. The skid and crossmember were hanging in space only mounted by the bolts on the driver side.

I had no idea when the came out on the climb. The bolts on the driver side did not fail. They kept the transmission and TC located well enough that I never even noticed the problem. The cross member did not bend or deform in any way.

Luckily, I keep a coffee can of bolts. Each time I take a bolt out for a project, similar bolts go into the can. I bolted the cross member back up and drove on without issue.
That sucks. I will keep that in mind. How is the paint holding up. Mine is powder coated.

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post #19 of 577 Old 12-31-2011, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoovail View Post
^^

I will definitely be asking you some questions!

How's the tank coming? I've been super busy at work and haven't got a chance to get any measurements and pics. Do you still need them?
The tank is still sitting on my garage floor. I haven't had the time to get in the weeds yet. I ordered my stretch from Clayton yesterday. I am in a parts accumulation stage it seems. The tank can go in first (I think).


I was also going to order some GenRight rear corners, highline rear flares, and rockers to finish off the ***end of the Jeep.

Once I get the lines from GenRight I will cut the tub and get ready to do the stretch and mount the corners.

I am going to dump the bumper and carrier I have and look to do something like you have Hoovail.


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post #20 of 577 Old 12-31-2011, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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That sucks. I will keep that in mind. How is the paint holding up. Mine is powder coated.
The paint has not held up well at all It may be my fault I sanded the steel. Washed the steel with MEK. Then I used some self etching primer and DUPLICOLOR to paint it. The crossmember has peeled like an orange. Each time I take the skid off I end up painting the side facing the tub.

I am going to switch paints needless to say. I have been steering clear of powder coat lately as well. The junk I had coated is flaking too. Maybe thats just my luck.


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post #21 of 577 Old 12-31-2011, 07:53 PM
kyle_craig
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Very nicely done thus far...subscribed.


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post #22 of 577 Old 01-08-2012, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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GenRight Crawler Comp Tank Install - Part One

Yesterday I started to install my GenRight Crawler Comp gas tank. According to GenRight, I will be able to stretch a Dana 60 back six inches and a Dana 44 seven. It re-uses the OEM fuel lines and pump.

It was shipped in a heavy duty box and is supposed to come with everything you need. GenRight provides thorough instructions with color pictures. The instructions say that a fuel pump lock ring removal tool was provided, but I never saw it in the box. If it was there, it's gone now

Here it is with the packing removed



Provided hardware



First major phase was to remove the OEM tank. This was pretty straight forward. The GenRight instruction tell you to disconnect the electrical before dropping the tank. I am pretty sure I don't have gorilla hands, but there was not way I could get to the electrical disconnect with the tank in place.

Bezel removed



I ended up taking a lot of the slack out of the wiring (there is plenty) and dropped the tank and then disconnect the electical.

You scavenge some of the evap lines from the OEM tank, the filler neck, and most of the breather hose. The 5/16 fuel hose provided by GenRight was too short to hook up the breather. Luckily, I had already bought about 2' prior to starting the project. I used about seven inches.

OEM tank removed





Removing the fuel pump was not all that hard. Getting the lock ring to move took a few hits with a dead blow hammer and a cold chisel. You have to score and remove a tab off of the fuel pump. I also had to shave down the outer ring to allow the machined retainer on the GenRight tank to turn easily.

Fuel pump



Then I set up the new tank



Next step - jack into place and install

Prior to starting this I ran down the Jeep to as close to empty as I dared. Once the OEM tank was on the ground I was amazed how much fuel was still in there. I would estimate four gallons. You could have driven on E for a long time.


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post #23 of 577 Old 01-09-2012, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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GenRight Crawler Comp Tank Install - Part Two

After removing the OEM tank, evap lines that route to the canister and under the hood, they were all plugged into the new tank. It was ready to be fit under the Jeep.



I had an old table leave handy. This was perfect to help lift this monster on my own.

Preparing for the lift.





I used a block of wood, 3 ton jack stands, and 6 ton jack staks to "ratchet" the tank up under my own power and then employed the floor jack to complete the lift. It was a stable and simple way to lift the tank and allow for offset letting the filler hose clear the frame while lifting before final placement. Once the filler hose cleared the frame the tank had to be shifted toward the driver side for proper allignment.

It took me several lifts to get it right. This tank DID NOT fit with my Currie rear AntiRock for TJ's. The frame mounts were right where the filler hose was and caused an impossilbe kink. I could not figure out any way to keep the AntiRock where it was and install the tank.

Not to worry, I am planning on a 5" stretch anyway so I took it off for now. I will figure out what to do about the rear AntiRock soon.

Overall, the lift and placement is easy. There is not a lot of room between the shock and the rear tabs so locating and drilling the holes for the frame side mounts was hard. It took me a few tries to get it.

The install took me about 7 hours by myself (taking my time) which I split over the weekend.

The tank is supposed to be 15 gallons. I put in two after the install and drove straight to a gas station (two miles). It took 15.2 at the gas station.





The new room between the standard wheel base pumpkin and the tank.



The new hardware for the frame side mounts.





I cannot report any gain in ground clearance. Yes, the tank has an angled edge that will impove the ange of descent. Under the tank though, it is at 18 1/2 inches and thats where I was with the OEM tank. I did gain a ton of room to complete the stretch.

Coming up, 5" stretch (Clayton - alread on the way), corners, fenders, M.O.R.E. steering box brace, etc...



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post #24 of 577 Old 01-09-2012, 04:30 PM
CrawlingForward
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Looking forward to seeing how this one progresses! Subscribed.


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post #25 of 577 Old 01-10-2012, 10:14 AM
hoovail
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Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
Not to worry, I am planning on a 5" stretch anyway so I took it off for now. I will figure out what to do about the rear AntiRock soon.
The best way I could find to mount it, is mount the sway bar itself forward of the axle. It is pretty straight forward. I modified the bolt on frame brackets, and welded them to the frame.


It's a tight squeeze!


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post #26 of 577 Old 01-10-2012, 11:22 AM
Sgt.Fuzz
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Subbed for the stretch.

My build:
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post #27 of 577 Old 01-10-2012, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Hoovail - How is the clearance betweent the AntiRock arms and the upper coil bucket? I assume that the new bucket is far enough back that it is after the bend in the AntiRock arm.


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post #28 of 577 Old 01-10-2012, 03:52 PM
hoovail
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∆∆

It's close, but clears.




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post #29 of 577 Old 01-10-2012, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, that is tight.


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post #30 of 577 Old 01-11-2012, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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How I Ended up with a Triangulated Four Link

In about September 2009 I was on the Spring Creek Trail near Downieville, CO and broke the rear axle side trackbar and UCA mount off of the axle tube. Crack appeared to have started a while before the final break. One side of the crack was rounded and oxidized and the other was jagged and showed bare steel.

It happened two months after installing a TeraFlex adjustable rear track bar. The offset didn't hurt a thing, but my OCD compelled me to center the rear axle.

TeraFlex Adjustable Rear TrackBar



I had to remove the broken mount, UCA, and TB. I now had an untriangulated three link rear

I used two ratchet straps to create my own triangulation to get out. I went from one side of the frame to the opposing axle side coil bucket. It worked well enough to get me out to the trailhead and make a decision.

I couldn't get a buddy with a trailer to meet me so I ended up driving home. I destroyed all of the remaining RE bushings and bent one shock.

I bought some new Billstein 5100's and got a new TB/UCA mount from Currie.

Curries mount on the left and busted junk on the right



Then I did what so many of us are prone to. I thought that I would be fine at 35's for years to come, but then I said why not go bigger. Why not build toward a stretch, 40's, and one tons.

So I sold the RE SA Kit, TeraFlex TB and Currie mount got the Clayton system I now have.


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