Jeep SAS Project - Page 4

mikes_muse · 08-12-2009, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

No prob. Wasn't trying to be a jerk, I was just curious if someone was making Chromos for our 8.25's. I don't think you'll have any problems with your 8.25's on 35's, especially with that beefy truss and cover. Will you be keeping the powertrax locker? No-Slip or Lok-Right?

No worries, I didn't take it the wrong way, I just misspoke, so totally my fault.

The truss is from Clayton Off Road and it is really beefy. The Rubicon Express upper rear arms are not the larger joint ends, like the lower ones, so Chris had to work his magic and welded some pretty and beefy spacers to the inside of the mounts on the truss to fill in the gaps and it turned out awesome. He also had to weld and re-drill the Ballistic Fab upper rear mount frame side brackets because they too were made for the lager end joints. They also turned out perfect.

I have heard that with the 4.88s that certain locker/lim slips won't fit in the carrier but Aussie lockers will for a fact. I am hoping my Powertrax No-Slip fits as well so I don't have to sell it and get a different one. Just want to avoid the hassle, especially since the No-Slip works so darn well.

justanotherjpr · 08-12-2009, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikes_muse

No worries, I didn't take it the wrong way, I just misspoke, so totally my fault.

The truss is from Clayton Off Road and it is really beefy. The Rubicon Express upper rear arms are not the larger joint ends, like the lower ones, so Chris had to work his magic and welded some pretty and beefy spacers to the inside of the mounts on the truss to fill in the gaps and it turned out awesome. He also had to weld and re-drill the Ballistic Fab upper rear mount frame side brackets because they too were made for the lager end joints. They also turned out perfect.

I have heard that with the 4.88s that certain locker/lim slips won't fit in the carrier but Aussie lockers will for a fact. I am hoping my Powertrax No-Slip fits as well so I don't have to sell it and get a different one. Just want to avoid the hassle, especially since the No-Slip works so darn well.

I have the no-slip in my 8.25. It fit really well with 3.55's, but barely fit with my Yukon 4.56's. I think we had to grind the ring gear a bit for the pin to clear. You might want to look into an aftermarket center pin and keeping your stocker as a spare. Are you buying your 4.88's from Nitro Gear? You might call them and ask. They also run under the name Just Differentials and JT's Parts.

mikes_muse · 08-12-2009, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

I have the no-slip in my 8.25. It fit really well with 3.55's, but barely fit with my Yukon 4.56's. I think we had to grind the ring gear a bit for the pin to clear. You might want to look into an aftermarket center pin and keeping your stocker as a spare. Are you buying your 4.88's from Nitro Gear? You might call them and ask. They also run under the name Just Differentials and JT's Parts.

Yeah I got the 4.88s from Nitro. The gears are going in tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes, but a tooth will definitely need to be ground down for them to fit I am afraid.

justanotherjpr · 08-12-2009, 04:52 PM

Griding the teeth really isn't that big of a deal. I was a little concerned at first, but my gear installer assured me it is OK. There's still a very large contact area, and there's not that much pressure on the tip of the gear teeth anyway.

Edit: Great pics on your blog. Nice to see some variety out there on the trails.

mikes_muse · 08-12-2009, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

Griding the teeth really isn't that big of a deal. I was a little concerned at first, but my gear installer assured me it is OK. There's still a very large contact area, and there's not that much pressure on the tip of the gear teeth anyway.

Edit: Great pics on your blog. Nice to see some variety out there on the trails.

Thanks man. I really like wheeling something different. It has been good so far and will be great here soon.

Oh, and I talked to Chris and I decided go ahead with the hack n tap from Rubicon Express. Since I am going to be getting rid of the 231 as soon as I can, replacing it with a 241, I don't want to spend any more cash on it. $85 for the hack n tap will work for me for the remaining time I will have the 231.

justanotherjpr · 08-12-2009, 05:07 PM

Hack N tap is actually a pretty decent setup. When you get ready to get rid of that 231 case, let me know. Might be interested in buying it from you.

mikes_muse · 08-12-2009, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

Hack N tap is actually a pretty decent setup. When you get ready to get rid of that 231 case, let me know. Might be interested in buying it from you.

For sure.

justanotherjpr · 08-12-2009, 05:13 PM

Have you already ordered the hack and tap setup?

justanotherjpr · 08-12-2009, 05:20 PM

The reason I ask, is the Hack N tap kit comes with the flange you need and that's about it. You still need the adapter and drive shaft.

Iron Rock Offroad sells a kit with 1310 CV style yoke instead of the flanged yoke like the RE hack and tap. This allows you to use a stock XJ front driveshaft, which should be pretty similar to your KJ front drive shaft. It also means you don't have any bolts in sheer for your driveline. It's still a hack and tap, but you are installing a different kind of yoke. Here's a write up where I used the same yoke as Iron Rock, but I didn't cut it down and bolt it to the shaft.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/carls-budget-sye-conversion-thread-803292/

mikes_muse · 08-12-2009, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

Have you already ordered the hack and tap setup?

I did this morning.

more pics

Chris also drilled out the spot welds on the rear upper spring perches and relocated them back as well. That way there will be no tweaking of the springs while flexing it out.

Looks good huh?

justanotherjpr · 08-12-2009, 05:23 PM

Looks great! Excellent departure angle!

Edit: Should have looked closer at the picture - front axle is not in yet

mJUSTINm · 08-12-2009, 05:31 PM

not gonna lie, that thing looks badass. im looking out the window at my sisters 2wd kj renegade and im just disappointed.

mikes_muse · 08-12-2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

The reason I ask, is the Hack N tap kit comes with the flange you need and that's about it. You still need the adapter and drive shaft.

Iron Rock Offroad sells a kit with 1310 CV style yoke instead of the flanged yoke like the RE hack and tap. This allows you to use a stock XJ front driveshaft, which should be pretty similar to your KJ front drive shaft. It also means you don't have any bolts in sheer for your driveline. It's still a hack and tap, but you are installing a different kind of yoke. Here's a write up where I used the same yoke as Iron Rock, but I didn't cut it down and bolt it to the shaft.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=803292

I already ordered the RE one, but thanks for the link. I am going to get a new rear shaft because the stock one just isn't made for 8" of lift.

mg2000xj · 08-12-2009, 06:11 PM

This thing is awesome. Between you and OHVKJ Im starting to like KJ's a lot more. Looks like quality work your having done, can wait for some more.

ohvkj · 08-12-2009, 06:12 PM

lol...hey mike how much were the 264 ome's?