Mocking it up to set pinion angle and tack perches in place. I will pull and weld up. With a constant velocity or double cardan drive shaft the pinion must point at the output flange on the transfercase minus 2 degrees to allow for axle wrap under load. The belly up skid has made my angle very high. I set my pinion at 24 degrees whole the driveshaft was at 26. I may need to clearance the driveshaft.
Once I tacked it in I pulled it out and welded it up. I also welded the tubes, stitching 1 inch welds on opposite ends to keep the heat down. This will help the tubes not spin if the Rosetta welds fail.
All painted up
I cut a plate as wide as the perches, drilled 2 holes in it, then tack welded a nut on the back of 1 hole. I can now bolt the stock exploder soft brake lines to the perch.
Since my flair nut rounded off when I tried to loosen it (using crows feet wrenches) I had to cut the steel line using a brake line cutting tool. However this made it easier to relocate the hard line by using a union and bending a new line for the added distance of the SOA lift. I used a 3/16 flat bar and bent to fit.
Here is it pretty much complete minus traction bar
I still have to pull down the transfercase and throw some thread locker on some bolts and paint the crossmember. Then it's on to the front axle. Woohoo
Well after 3 broken tap handles, I finally got the knuckle tapped. Now I'm just waiting on the OTC Jeep ball joint adapters kit to come in. It should be in Thursday. I also need to either buy/make a spanner wrench for the split ring in the knuckle.
Well 2 of the bolts for the cross over steering brackets torqued down to 90ft lbs with perminate lock-tite. The other one closest to the wheel bearing didn't quite make it. I figured this would happen as the arm was about 1/4" thinner at that point. So I stopped the torque wrench the second I felt the bolt turning easier. Then I through 2 tac welds on the bottom of the bolt where it was threaded through. I feed pretty good about it considering the other two bolts were torqued to spec.
My OTC-7894 jeep/Dodge ball joint press adapters came in today. It made quick work of the ball joints. I will tell you all from experience. Don't monkey around with a BJ press without these adapters. It's nothing but a headache and PITA. If you have a pre 91 Jeep with a Dana 30 then there is a split ring that must be replaced and adjusted to proper depth. My manual said a depth of .206. It takes a special spanner wrench to turn the ring. Or you can make one out of an old spark plug socket. This split ring is important as it sets the preload on the ball joints. I then reinstalled the knuckle, pulled the axle, moved it to the front of the garage, and called it a night.
Before I install the new springs I need to fix an old shackle hanger repair that was done in college. The hanger had cracked and when my buddy welded it back together the bolt holes got a little off causing my shackle to be slightly cockyed. Nothing a cut off wheel and melted metal won't fix.
Here is the cuts i made to adjust the shackle hanger. It is kind of hard to see in the picture, but when i ground down some of the weld there are multiple locations where the old weld had poor penatration.
So I made sure that this beast isnt going any where. Doesnt look pretty, but it gets the job done!
Next was the spring perches. I went the easy rout and set the caster to the same as the stock spring perches. With the 1/2" lift shackles it looks like I have about 4.5 degrees of caster..
First time sitting on its own weight SOA! :thumbs:
I pulled the rear shaft to clearance. Hopefully (finger crossed) I can clearance the CV and not have to lower the drive train and redo the rear spring perches.
If* the clearancing works here is the rest of the punch list:
-Clearance new crossmember for front driveshaft
-Cut and sleeve front driveshaft
-Get exhaust modified
-Finish modifying ebrake cables
-Cut and clearance skidplate,
-Install traction bar
-Fix hole I put in the soft top
-find a money tree for new shoes
Wrenching time is limited, but I got a little bit done tonight. I picked up a piece of 1" pvc to mock up the drag link I need to make. The angles turned out great! It's almost completely parallel with the tierod.
But.... I think I am going to have a clearance issue. The drag link is really close to the spring. I am will ING to bet it will hit during articulation. I think I need to replace my drop pitman arm with a stock pitman arm. Does anyone have their old arm?
I believe it's a 4" drop. It was on here when I bought the Jeep.
Im getting close to at least being able to do a shake down run.
I finished making the tie rod. I used a RH and LH threaded rod ends with 1.5" .025 wall DOM. My gear box will rip off before this bends. Here is a prep picture. I beveled the ends of the tube and drilled holes for plug welds.
Ground flush for smooth finish. You can barely see one of the plug welds in the picture.
Clearance is alot better.
Would rather have less of an angle, but its not horrible.
After wrestling with the engine, drive train, and unbolting the top bolts and beating the saddle engine mount with a BFH I got the motor mounts in. The whole drive train ended up moving about 1/4" foward. Now my pinion angle is only 1 degree less than the drive shaft. I would feel better if it was 2-3 degrees. I also forgot to factor in the new springs settling as well. I may need a couple degree shim to clock the pinion down a hair in the future. At least the traction bar I will be installing after the shake down run should negate any axle wrap.
I also got bored and made a new best friend her name is Sterling (like the axle she came from).
Bled the brakes using my home made one man power bleeder (works amazing for flushing auto hydraulics).
Jerry rigged the exhaust for the shake down run. Want to make sure I get a couple of rides in to make sure there are no issues. Then I will send it to the exhaust shop to redo the exhaust.
Wait for it...
ITS ALIVE!!! WOOOOHOOOO!! I took it on a shake down run and everything went great. Limited slip was good and tight. It rides great. No vibes. The only issue was I had to adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel.
I will now be picking these up this week. 315/70R17 Nitto Dune Grapplers. They are take offs, but they have great tread and I couldn't pass up the deal.
They will be mounted on 17x9 Mayhem Tank's
It is definitely not done, but I can drive it.
-Exhaust (possibly switch to block hugger headers)
-Shorten sway bar links
-Sleeve front drive shaft
-Clearance crossmember for front d/s
-Cut, reinforce, and install skid plate
-Make and install traction bar
-Flex it for shock measurements
Got the new shoes today. Also took some 2wd poser shots at Overbuilt Customs. My shocks were bottomed out on the front and rear of the passenger side and the Jeep came off the top step when I was trying to set the brake. Still miles better than it was before. Debating on dropping the body lift to 1" or none. It would either require cutting the floor board or getting rid of the tummy tuck.... Decisions :?:
Finished all the hangers and fixing the passenger tail pipe. The exhaust is done!
I figured out that part of that awful noise my Jeep was making at the poker run was the fan hitting the shroud. So I removed the shroud. I'm waiting on a couple of parts to come in so I can do the Volvo E-fan upgrade. Also my battery gave up the ghost. So I'm looking at new ones I'm thinking the Die Hard platinum AGM. I have heard good reviews and it is a sealed deep cycle battery. My Jeep sits alot so I need a good reserve capacity. Any one have any opinions or suggestions on batteries?
I ended up getting the diehard platinum AGM group 65. It's a big battery. Weighs about 70 lbs, but it's got a whopping 950CCA!!! Thats 100 more than optima red top! Needless to say it didn't fit. In the early YJ's the battery tray oriented the batter long end front to back and the tray is tiny. So I decided to build a new one. It cost $20 in steel (Lowe's prices) to build. I. Made it out of a piece of 1.5x.125 angle and a piece of 1.5x.125 flat stock.
I drilled out the pinch welds from the OEM battery tray. The piece that bolted to the fender was great so why not reuse it?
Right before paint
Mounted. I reused the J hooks and top plate. Although with the top plate I cut it and used a piece of scrap to extend it about 3/4" to accommodate the wider battery. The J hooks are mounted through a large nut on each side.