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Unread 05-11-2013, 04:50 PM   #16
87TPIYJ
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
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I was wanting to know what is a good price for a full float dana 60 rear with drum brakes and 410 gears? I guy wants to sell me one for 275. He also knows a guy that wants to buy my dana 35 for $250. So basically I would pay $25 bucks for the axle. What is your thoughts? Is a drum dana 60 worth $275? If not does it really matter cause he is hooking me up with a guy that will buy my 35 for 250? I have to make this desision soon cause the guy needs the asap for a daily driver. An axle upgrade is long over due for me soo is this the opportunity I should jump on???

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Unread 05-12-2013, 07:22 AM   #17
87TPIYJ
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Anyone?
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Unread 05-19-2013, 03:55 PM   #18
87TPIYJ
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picked up some recovery today
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Unread 05-20-2013, 08:03 PM   #19
87TPIYJ
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I took apart the new to me winch for servicing and refurbishing. Also got front bumpers on order from 4 wheel parts. :deedidee:


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Unread 05-30-2013, 06:02 AM   #20
87TPIYJ
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I started to service the winch I bought on CL. I got all of the planetary gears removed, cleaned with purple power and a few cans of brake cleaner. No rust! Then regreased and re assmbled. I have to wait on a gasket though, it didnt make it through. The Warn customer service said I had a 90% chance of being able to reuse it... well I guess im the 10%. Here are some pics.

Cracking it open


1st set of gears


Thrust bushing


2nd set of gears


I didnt take a picture of the 3rd set of gears, but they were behind the second set. Here is the sliding ring gear. Notice the grooved side faces toward the winch drum. It must go back in that way.


All cleaned up!


Greased and re-assembled (minus the other side of the housing)


Need to do:
-re-tap the hole in the drum to mount the winch rope
-tap the new tie rods I ordered. (cannot believe they are not tapped from the factory)
-Dis assemble motor and clean
-gather parts to wire solenoids to be relocated under the hood
-pick up new bumpers
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Unread 05-30-2013, 02:42 PM   #21
95YamJam
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Sweet! I have always looked for used winches but never find the one i want. Maybe someday.

Sweet builds..... Build!

As far as welders go i went with 220 becuse i liked the duty cycle better. I am using a weldmark 187. It is made by hobart/miller only cheaper. I use 75/25 gas mixture with .030 or .035 wire deopends on cost. I use .023 for sheet metal work.

As far as upper shock mounts i was at a crossroads with my 8.8 swap. I made my own custom upper bar and custom lower mounts mounted to my home made u bolt skid plates. The upper i made has full motion of the shock mount thru it's travel forward and left to right. It also keeps my shocks up some and puts them in a better position.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #22
87TPIYJ
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I got it all back together. I skipped the motor cleaning for now (getting impatient). Well taking apart the planetary gears and putting them back together is about impossible to mess up. I put the 3rd (large) planetary gears in backwards and tried to reassemble and guess what. The drum wouldn't go on all the way. So I fixed that, got my tie rods tapped for the new stainless hardware I got from ace. Rubbed it down with alcohol and put the replacement way too expensive stickers back on. Now just waiting for the winch mount and debating on weather or not to relocate the solenoid box. I have to buy new battery cables regardless. Thoughts?



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Unread 06-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #23
87TPIYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
Sweet! I have always looked for used winches but never find the one i want. Maybe someday.

Sweet builds..... Build!

As far as welders go i went with 220 becuse i liked the duty cycle better. I am using a weldmark 187. It is made by hobart/miller only cheaper. I use 75/25 gas mixture with .030 or .035 wire deopends on cost. I use .023 for sheet metal work.

As far as upper shock mounts i was at a crossroads with my 8.8 swap. I made my own custom upper bar and custom lower mounts mounted to my home made u bolt skid plates. The upper i made has full motion of the shock mount thru it's travel forward and left to right. It also keeps my shocks up some and puts them in a better position.
love to see a pic of the mounts if you got it!
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Unread 06-05-2013, 08:17 PM   #24
87TPIYJ
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While I'm STILL waiting on my winch mount I decided to crack open the box with my hawse fairlead. It is billet aluminum and I decided it wasn't bling bling enough so I used my headlight restoration kit to polish it. Worked like a charm. Forgot to take a before pic. Me likey

1370485058549.jpg

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
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Unread 06-06-2013, 07:26 AM   #25
jbeebe
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the winch is looking great. keep us updated
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Unread 06-10-2013, 07:54 PM   #26
87TPIYJ
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In preparation for the winch mount coming on Wednesday, I made the decision to relocate the soleniod box.

Once I decided on the location I used a pizza box from last night for the mount template.


I know you like my home made break


Ready for some holes


Drill press makes life alot easier


Welded it up. Go ahead flame away for the booger welds, but I dont think many people can do much better with what im working with and no auto darkening helmet (see next pic). Nothing a grinder wont fix though.


and yes those sticks are probably over 10yrs old


Test fitting it... Like a glove!


More pics from test fit. Im happy with the results.


...and more


After the test fit I taped off the contact area and put a couple of coats of primer down then put down a couple layers of Plastidip. Hopefully this should be effective corrosion control on the mated surfaces.


Layed a couple of coats of primer and Sprayed a few coats of the left over wheel paint I had from painting the winch. It looks silver because of the lighting, but its really gunmetal. Going to let it cure over night and mount it up tomorrow. I will need to measure all my 2AWG wire leangths to wire it up. Ill wait until I know what im working with when the mount comes in.... man im getting antsy.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 07:12 AM   #27
95YamJam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post

love to see a pic of the mounts if you got it!
Some are in my build thread. I need to get more up of it being built.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:35 PM   #28
87TPIYJ
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Update for the evening.

1) I guess all wire gauge is not created equal. I bought some black 2 gauge wire from Orielie's and lugs for 2 gauge wire. They only had 12 feet and I needed another 7 more. So I went to Napa and bought 7 feet of red 2 gauge wire for my power lead to solenoid box. It was over $4/ft at Napa (spit your drink out now). Well you get what you pay for. The lugs fit perfectly over the Orielie's 2ga, but not happening on the Napa wire. They are both marked 2ga but I'm going to need 0ga lugs for the Napa wire.


2) In the wiring diagram it says the wire that comes out of the female pigtail on the controller box is supposed to go to the motor ground (the bottom post on the winch motor) . I will have a 2 gauge ground wire going to that post already but I really don't feel that the controller ground must go to that post. I feel like it can go to any chassis ground. A ground is a ground no matter where you ground it right? Does anyone know if it's absolutely necessary that I run it to the winch motor ground? I would rather not cut splice and extend that wire when I have plenty of places to ground it on the fender. What do you guys think?



3) Post F1 is the only post that gets a positive signal correct? From the wiring diagrams I have found online has it as the only red wire running to the winch. I color coded my wires that way, but I'm just curious.

4) going to wait for the winch mount tomorrow to cut and lug the ends. Also waiting to determine if I'm going to rout them through the grill slats or under them.
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Unread 06-13-2013, 09:39 AM   #29
87TPIYJ
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Here are some schematics i was looking at.

I know this is a 3 wire set up but do you see what I mean by only 1 red wire going to the winch? Is that the only + wire??
[/URL]

This is the correct schematic for my winch
[/URL]

Now I know this is not the same winch but it gives you a better visual picture... Does that Black wire comin from the controller HAVE to go to motor ground or can it go to any ground?????

[/URL]
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Unread 06-16-2013, 03:00 PM   #30
87TPIYJ
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 641
Well I might as well call this winch/bumper install "Murphys law install."

The first issue I ran into was warriors winch mounting holes I noticed the minute I bolted up the fairlead.



I mounted the winch in hopes there may be enough room. There wasnt even enough to put the nut on the back. So to correct that problem I re drilled all 4 holes 3/4" closer to the grill.




Issue #2 when I went to install the stinger the hood loop hit my fenders b/c my 2" body lift.



So I busted out the jig saw and angle grinder.





#3 Because I ordered the stronger thimble on my rope. My hook would not fit on it. So I splurged and got the Factor 55 prolink loaded.




#4 Due to the amazingly contradicting information on the web about spooling a synthetic line i just spooled my winch using hand tension. So of course on the first pull the outer wraps where digging into the lower wraps.



#5 Today I wrapped it neat using the ebrake as tension to pull my jeep in. It wrapped nice, but I noticed some fibers on the bottom of my fairlead. I dont like that. I wasnt paying attention when it first started wrapping, but towards then end it was absolutly pulling down on the bottom of the fairlead causing it to rub and making it a PITA to get the protective sleeve to spool in with the line. I feel like the fairlead should be mounted lower (would require drilling new holes again, and grinding out the opening more on the mount! )

Anyone who has a synthetic line:
-Is there an a downward angle on the rope between you fairlead and your last wrap?
-What is the distance from the top of the mounting plate to the center of the fairlead mounting hole? Thanks!

Other than that Im happy with how it looks!

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