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Indecision 2.0: A TJ dedicated for abuse.

26K views 166 replies 21 participants last post by  mncdriver 
#1 ·
Some people say I have ADD when it comes to Jeeps. Actually, I have ADD when it comes to everything since, well, I have ADD.

I picked up a pair of 5.9 ZJ's. The intention was to make one of them a wheeler and one a DD. Laying under it, thinking about unibody sitffeners, link mounts, etc made me depressed. That and trying to keep the sheet metal from looking like a crushed pop can meant something of an exo-cage and I'm not very fond of those....

So I cruised craigslist and found this little beauty for $2500.



A few small things wrong with it, pretty large dent in the back of the tub, and a bad water pump. Usually something like this (especially with a 4.0) goes for around $4K plus around here easy.

I already picked some axles up for the ZJ, and will use them on the TJ instead.



The front is a 2005 Superduty D60. Massive breaks, 3.75" tubes, 35 spline inners and outers, giant knucles, etc.

Rear is a 2003 Ford Sterling 10.5. 35 Spline full float, disk brakes with e-brake etc.

Budget is going to be much tighter than the last rig. I really don't want to be wheeling a $35K+ Jeep again.
 
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#2 ·
Tentative plan

Even though this is a budget build, this Jeep has an AX-15 manual trans. Good trans, but I hate wheeling manuals.

So...

A: I could swap an AW4. Quick and easy, cheap, great transmission.

B: I could yank the 5.9, and 46RE out of the ZJ and stuff it in. Torque city, reliable, a bit on the heavy side.

C: Sell the ZJ and drop in a LM7 5.3 out of a chevy with a 4l60E. More horsepower, lighter weight, better fuel economy, aftermarket city.

Steering: I'm thinking hydro assist with a tapped stock box and maybe hotrod the stock pump.

Suspension: 3 link front, single triangulated 4 link rear, Currie 1.25" shank JJ's, 2" .25" wall rectangular tube lowers, 1.75" .120" wall DOM uppers.

Wheelbase will be 100"+ 37" tires, 17" bead locks, 80" track width.

You know, pretty much just another TJ on tons. :welder:
 
#5 ·
C: Sell the ZJ and drop in a LM7 5.3 out of a chevy with a 4l60E. More horsepower, lighter weight, better fuel economy, aftermarket city.

Steering: I'm thinking hydro assist with a tapped stock box and maybe hotrod the stock pump.

Suspension: 3 link front, single triangulated 4 link rear, Currie 1.25" shank JJ's, 2" .25" wall rectangular tube lowers, 1.75" .120" wall DOM uppers.

Wheelbase will be 100"+ 37" tires, 17" bead locks, 80" track width.

You know, pretty much just another TJ on tons. :welder:
Coming around full circle eh? I dig the tentative plan :cheers2:
 
#11 ·
I know, how could I NOT buy it? I never imagined I would be able to DRIVE HOME a TJ with a 4.0 for anywhere close to $2500. It's probably the 5th or 6th time I had a seller tell me they had to take an ad down because they've had so much interest.

I'm going to rob the stock springs off the white one and put the lift springs on it, take care of a few issues and sell it.
 
#13 ·
To avoid having to cut the oval tubed rear axle I have down, AND keep a 80" track width, I need to have deep backspaced wheels. Problem with deep backspaced wheels are they interfere with high steer... Unless the wheel is bigger like a 20. Ford has some pretty interesting stock 20" wheels that I could run until the money fairy brings me more money for beadlocks, and Nitto has a 12.50" wide 37" high tire for them. Load range E though.

Am I being stupid in even thinking about it?
 

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#26 ·
I've been having a nice email chat with Wayne off Alltech Motorsports about coil-overs. He said not to bother with the 2.5's and that 2.0's will be fine for me. I'm happy to hear that. He is going to valve and spring a set of Fox 2.0's and get them coming my way.

Also, Advanced Adapter's motor mounts showed up. With any luck, I'll have the motor sitting in it by the end of the weekend.
 
#29 ·
So a little dilemma. I'm not going to comp cut this rig. That said, I would like to run a 40" tire if I could. I don't think I'm going to have enough wheel base for 40's unless I push my front WAY out which I don't want to do either.

So should I

A: stick to 37's and a 100-104 ish wheelbase
B: TJ6 this one, go 40's and 110ish wheelbase.
 
#30 ·
As much as I want to see option B, Do you really need it? I think you could make a very capable rig on 37s. Wait a minute... :teehee:
 
#32 ·
My line of thinking was not repeating what happened with your red TJ build. I guess you want something totally different out of a rig now though.
 
#35 ·
I bought wheels and tires from Discount over the weekend. Decided to go with 37's and just the standard TJ stretch this time.

Didn't get quite as much done as I wanted this weekend but I did end up with a pile of stuff I won't need.



It's much easier to remove all the brackets when there isn't an engine in the way.

I did finish the day with the engine mounts tacked in place and ready to accept some LS goodness.

 
#43 ·
Fairly productive weekend. I needed to install my Daystar body lift, so I figured while the body was elevated, I might as well cut stuff off.



Then I pulled the wiring off the engine to get it ready to put in.



And after cutting out a big notch for the A/C and reinforcing it, I dropped it into place.





Fits like a glove! I like the positioning of the engine with the Advance adapter mounts. It actually allows the use of the truck exhaust manifolds assuming you aren't doing a front 3 link like I am. I'll probably have to do some sort of center dump again.
 
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