Finally found some self etching primer and painted up the parts I sand blasted the other day. Small progress but progress none the less.
Also got the rear diff cover primed while I had it off and the primer out.
I will prime the axles to prevent rust but final painting will happen after all the welding is done and the axles are under the jeep.
I Got the 4.88 G2 gears in the mail today. Thanks again kolak.
Ordered the 3 and 4 link brackets from poly performance. Also got two 10 degree offset link mounts for front and rear.
Time to order the 2", 1.25" shank joints, bungs and jam nuts. Jonny Joints or Duroflex.... seriously thinking about trying out the Metalcloak Duroflex joints.
I need to mock/fab up the hard and soft brake lines. And get the rest of the odds and ends in place. And figure out what to do about shocks. Keep the OMEs or outboard with fox, bilstine, rancho etc. Might stick with the OMEs for the time being, then outboard at a later date. metalcloak is also an option I'm seriously considering.
the eventual plan is to outboard, just not sure when. I may even flip the rear calipers to the front in anticipation of outboarding, since I still have everything on the floor. I just dont want to have to buy new shocks and outboarded shock mounts at the moment. The Poly shock mounts are tiny and will probably not clear the coil bucket when mounted on the axle tube. no wonder they were so cheap.
The reason you havent seen much progress is b/c i've sort of been put on hold with this until I see how all this government spending BS is going to affect me. We will likely see a 20% pay cut shortly, only working 32 hours a week. and if they cut funding to the programs we support we could both be up ****s creek.
I have done almost everything to the axles that i can without spending more money or having my jeep torn down.
for the REAR I still need to order:
BM wizard parking brake flip kit ($55)
pads and rotors for the rear ($?)
Rubicon parking brake cables ($60?)
8 JJ or Duroflex joints and bungs/jam nuts ($? between $60-75 per joint)
DOM for links ($? have the DOM at the shop when i need it)
brake lines ($?)
another 1310 yoke and pinion seal ($50)
outboarding mounts??? ($250)
for the FRONT:
longer soft brake lines YJ ($?)
ball joints ($100)
gear install labor costs ($~300)
currie track bar (300)
6 joints, bungs, jam nuts ($? between $60-75 per joint)
DOM for links (same)
truss/bridge for 3 link Clayton ($50-75)
i'm sure there is more, thats just off the top of my head. so as you can see I still have quite a bit of money to spend.
Ill recoup some money selling the 30/35, spare shafts, aussie, diff cover, Currie upper rear CAs, etc. but if i'm lucky ill get $6-800 for all that.
No progress in the past month or so. Still waiting for the dust to settle after all the government spending cuts are finalized. Since both my wife and I work for contractors supporting the government we could see a pretty drastic pay cut.
Plan will be to get the rear installed and all dialed in, then tackle the front.
My long distance run in July to new England/ Vermont has been cancelled due to cuts already. So I have no rush to get it done.
No real progress in regards to the axle swap. But I did rule out the duroflex joints. I just can't justify the extra $300 vs standard JJs. Going to place my order shortly. Possibly starting on it later in the month.
I did order some parts trying to track down my rough idling problem. now that the weather has warmed up it has gotten a little worse, like it always does in the summer. Hopefully throwing parts at it helps. Replacing most of the air/timing/throttle sensors in hopes it clears up. If that doesn't work I'll look into a new coil rail, then injectors. If that doesn't work it might go to the dealer.
oil change and replaced the IAC, air temperature sensor and crank position sensor. I also put a heat shield wrap around the injector rail incase my issue was related to heat soak. none of that seemed to completly get the problem under control. idles slightly smoother which I attribute to the new IAC and oil.
Still having a slight miss/low idle when the engine warms up. upon further investigation, I found the fuel rail isnt seated properly at the #1 injector. this either happened when I put the fuel rail back on after having it loose to wrap it in heat shield material or it has been loose for a while. either way i have to take it back off and change all the injector o-rings. not a hard thing to do thankfully.
After inspection, I dont think the TSP or the cam position sensor needs to be replaced, so they will be returned.
at least i'm narrowing down the possible causes of my rough idle. i'm actually thinking the Cherokee intake manifold I got from the Junkyard may have a different internal volume/flow than my 04. I forget the year cherokee it came out of, i want to say 01, but cant be certain. I dont know how to tell if it is the correct intake for my 04. I saw an 04 intake in the classifieds today and am half contemplating swapping it out again.
got the #1 injector leak fixed with a new o-ring. I must have pinched the O-ring when i reassembled everything last weekend and it tore a chunk off the o-ring. simple enough to fix.
after doing some research on intake manifolds i believe i am good to go with the one I installed. so time to look elsewhere.
The only other thing i can identify as being wrong with my engine is a ticking, which i always attributed to a stuck lifter. although, it appears that the ticking is originating at the camshaft synchronizer (or OPDA). so i'm going to return the unused sensors that i bought the other day and pick up a new OPDA. i guess it stands to reason that if the camshaft synchronizer plays a part in the timing of the engine, and was damaged, the engine would run a little rough.
opinions? Not only is the engine running a little rough at idle, it is only getting 13MPG. which doesnt sound too bad, but typically I get around 15-17. So something is wrong. I think i might be coming to the realization that this might be something that i might need the dealers diagnostic tools to help identify.