A Hokies 04' TJ build - Page 11 - JeepForum.com
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post #151 of 715 Old 05-28-2013, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
jeepinhokie
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a quick picture of some two wheel drive flex. locked the axle in 2 Hi and went up without any slippage.

the garage I worked out of has a RTI ramp in the woods behind it.

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post #152 of 715 Old 05-28-2013, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
jeepinhokie
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Took advantage of some memorial day sales and ordered 6 more 1.25" Duroflex joints and 6 more Ruffstuff threaded inserts for the front build.

also, sold my currie upper rear control arms to a good buddy of mine.
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post #153 of 715 Old 05-28-2013, 07:20 AM
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Looks good man, nearly identical to my rear setup. Liking it so far?

OlllllllO
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post #154 of 715 Old 05-28-2013, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
jeepinhokie
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Looks good man, nearly identical to my rear setup. Liking it so far?
I am liking it so far. Its not a 100% change in ride, but the rear feels more compliant over large speed bumps with less of the small road imperfections being transferred. True test will be when i get the front 3 link done and possibly get new coils and shocks. I set the rear up in anticipation of outboarding, but I dont know when that will happen.

I acutally had a question for you in your Duroflex joint thread... what do you think about the upper frame side mount in poly's 3 link kit being rotated 90 degrees. with a JJ, there would be no concern, but with the Duroflex joint I feel that the frame side joint would see near constant deflection.

I know you went with a custom frame side upper that mounted the joint horizontal, what was the reasoning behind that decesion?
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post #155 of 715 Old 05-28-2013, 08:29 AM
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In terms of deflection, that won't change.....the arm will be under the same tension and compression forces as it would with the bolts parallel. With the joint rotated like that, upward and downward movement of the axle will translate to misalignment movement by that joint instead of simple rotation inside of the housing. I think it will work fine. But, that also allows another option like a JJ.....you understand why JJ's and Duroflex bushings shouldn't be used together on the same arm when oriented the same, right? Because the JJ has a higher breakaway point than the Duroflex, thus the DF would be doing all of the work until it bottoms out. But in the orientation you're asking about, the frame end and axle end joints will no longer be operating under the same boundaries....one will be misaligning while the other breaks away. You could run a JJ up there if you want or you could run a Duroflex.

OlllllllO
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post #156 of 715 Old 05-28-2013, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
In terms of deflection, that won't change.....the arm will be under the same tension and compression forces as it would with the bolts parallel. With the joint rotated like that, upward and downward movement of the axle will translate to misalignment movement by that joint instead of simple rotation inside of the housing. I think it will work fine. But, that also allows another option like a JJ.....you understand why JJ's and Duroflex bushings shouldn't be used together on the same arm when oriented the same, right? Because the JJ has a higher breakaway point than the Duroflex, thus the DF would be doing all of the work until it bottoms out. But in the orientation you're asking about, the frame end and axle end joints will no longer be operating under the same boundaries....one will be misaligning while the other breaks away. You could run a JJ up there if you want or you could run a Duroflex.
deflection was the wrong term to use, but you understood my concern. misalignment...

funny you mention using a JJ on that end, b/c that was my inital thought too. I think Ill stick with the Duroflex joints, if I feel like it has too much misalignment ill order a JJ and swap it out, keeping the DF joint as a spare.

thanks for your thoughts...

Edit: yes I fully inderstand the JJ vs DF differences and why they dont belong together when mounted in the same orientation.
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post #157 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 12:38 AM
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What's your wheelbase now? Were you able to get maybe an inch now that you don't have a trackbar? I'd like to see how far back I could do mine with a Savvy GTS and some trimming.

-Jack
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post #158 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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What's your wheelbase now? Were you able to get maybe an inch now that you don't have a trackbar? I'd like to see how far back I could do mine with a Savvy GTS and some trimming.
funny you mention wheelbase...

I wanted to check it yesterday but got wrapped up in doing other small odds and ends under the jeep. If I had to guess, I'm within an inch of stock WB. the Truss and diff cover take up a good chunk of room behind the axle, and might negate any potential to move the axle back at all. i've got the axle as far back as I feel comfortable with for now. I can stick my fingers between the tank and diff cover, but my palm gets stuck. so maybe 3/4" from the tank.

A savvy GTS is on my list of future changes. but not untill i build a bumper with a tow hitch. b/c as of now I still need to be able to tow my utility trailer around town. With the rusty *** tow hitch hanging down there would be no benefit to a GTS.

when i get a a GTS ill re address the link lengths to maxamize my WB.

I'll see if I can get a measurement today.
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post #159 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
funny you mention wheelbase...

I wanted to check it yesterday but got wrapped up in doing other small odds and ends under the jeep. If I had to guess, I'm within an inch of stock WB. the Truss and diff cover take up a good chunk of room behind the axle, and might negate any potential to move the axle back at all. i've got the axle as far back as I feel comfortable with for now. I can stick my fingers between the tank and diff cover, but my palm gets stuck. so maybe 3/4" from the tank.

A savvy GTS is on my list of future changes. but not untill i build a bumper with a tow hitch. b/c as of now I still need to be able to tow my utility trailer around town. With the rusty *** tow hitch hanging down there would be no benefit to a GTS.

when i get a a GTS ill re address the link lengths to maxamize my WB.

I'll see if I can get a measurement today.
Yea I was afraid that BTF truss would take up a lot of room. I'd like to see what s grinder could do. Might end up cutting and moving the gas tank back like 55willystruck did.

-Jack
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post #160 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Yea I was afraid that BTF truss would take up a lot of room. I'd like to see what s grinder could do. Might end up cutting and moving the gas tank back like 55willystruck did.
honestly the truss doesnt really take up any more space than the diff cover.

if I had more lift and the pinion had to be rotate alot further then i could see it becoming an issue. ill try to take a picture when i get home.
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post #161 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 10:37 AM
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me likes

MY BUILD-----> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/81-jeep-scrambler-3-link-1507615/
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post #162 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Wheelbase is exactly 93".


Diff cover clearance is as shown.

image-3076082722.jpg

image-1344666149.jpg


random shot of the link mount.

image-2000204694.jpg

Sway bar mount had to move closer to the center of the body.

image-155801812.jpg

Overall side shot.

image-2907871934.jpg

image-1613433809.jpg
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post #163 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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When I took it into the field to play and take that photo I engaged the locker and everything worked fine. Light in the dash even lit up properly.

I opened the hood to make sure the pump was shutting off when the locker locked and its not shutting off. Pulling the diff vent off I can feel pressure building inside the axle. So I know the leak is inside the pumpkin.

Guess I get to pull the diff cover off again sometime before the build is complete.

Though I figured if there was a leak the locker wouldn't lock correctly. Must be a small air leak I guess.
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post #164 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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After looking at my 3 link bracket and having Will a metalcloak tell me that having the DF joints mounted 90* to each other isn't ideal; I think I might try to mount this as the frame side upper mount vs having the joint mounted vertically. Mounting it roughy 10* inward towards the top of the diff. This does three things for me.

1. It rotates the joints parallel to each other

2. It give me a little more separation at the frame.

3. It gives me some adjustability that I otherwise wouldn't have.

Thoughts?

It's basically mimicking the 4 link upper.
image-3483192934.jpg
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post #165 of 715 Old 05-29-2013, 06:16 PM
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That should work just fine. If you're sitting it on top of the lower mount, make sure to brace the ever living hell out of the assembly, both together and against the frame.

OlllllllO
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