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GTX's low rider TJ build

122K views 687 replies 82 participants last post by  offroader80 
#1 ·
GTX's low rider TJ build - now 4500 Ultra4 wannabe

***updated Dec 2015 - This has turned into a nearly full blown 4500 Ultra4 wannabe build!

The 1/2 ton version of the build is complete (I broke my D30 in half at the dunes) and moving onto one tons, see page 39 for 1 ton Eaton hybrid
***


For the fastest updates, follow me on Instagram: @jeeps4Trevin

I'm nearly finished with the first "phase" of things. I know a few of my buddies on here have wanted to see it so I'm posting up.

First up, background-

'97 TJ Sport
4.0/AX-15/NP231
LP D30 with 3.55s
D35 with 4.10s
Smittybuilt bumper
chrome EVERYWHERE
sagging 4" Skyjackoff lift
3" bodylift...yeah, wow

The good stuff:

Full banks stainless exhaust, the good kind of header and flowmaster
came with a HP30 with 4.10s
got a great deal on it
swapped in 4.0 with less miles and all is good
Alpine deck and 6.5s, Kicker 5 1/4s
Came with 35 MTRs in good shape on black steelies
Sold some of the crap for cash
hard top
hard doors too

The plan (old, see last pages)
long arms - done, with stretch
0-1" suspension lift, 1" body lift done
cage
8.8 swap done
HP30 swap done
4.10s done
locked on both ends done
RCV shafts done
SYE + CV done
35" Krawlers on alum rims done
warn upright winch done
high line fenders done
sliders
rear corner armor done
front and rear bumpers

I'll add more to the list and update as time and build goes on.

This belonged to a guy's wife. She just liked having a lifted Jeep to ride around in, didn't care about 4wd or anything like that. Can't blame her, it's a cool Jeep. The sound of the full exhaust is awesome!

Pics when I got her


Euro tails :laughing:


Pics now, page 45-



 
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#221 ·
I guess the more I think about it, it doesn't matter. Of course you want a 0 degree approach for a crawler, but without 40's it's pretty tough to do. So as long as you get close, maybe tire size in the future will fill that gap. That's kinda what I had resigned myself to for the future of my own build. I know I won't get it on my 37's, but I want to get as much as I can, it's part of my not giving up performance OCD schtick that I have. I'm just trying to help by showing another side of things. Good luck either way.
 
#224 ·
The tube is for the round portion like on your stock one you kept. I planned on capping it with a plate and welding a nut to the underside for my bumps.

And I'm running jk 44's, I'm good for 37's. ;) but I agree. For 40's, it's go big or go home.
 
#225 ·
Ah, I see. I planned on doing the same coil retainer technique. If I had jk44s I'd probably run 40s with some upgraded shafts/rcvs and call it good. I keep wondering how my 8.8 would like 40s if I had a full case locker and a Super 88 kit.

Today's update - bear with me, these pictures suck due to lighting but they show what's going on.

Bolted up the steering and stuffed the suspension to show what happens and how tight it is in there. Lucky for me I have some tricks up my sleeve for the track bar and pitman arm.

steering at ride height


stuffed, notice the stock track bar mount = has to go




Started making the new track bar frame bracket. The track bar will be about 32.5" long for anyone wondering.


Came out like this so far. Today's sponsor is Blue Moon.


Mocked up. Came out well but I want it lower and think I will plate the frame at least on the outside and bottom. If not I'll design it with the same material I used for my suspension frame brackets.


Hacked off the other coil bucket on the axle and it took forever without the plasma. Took some pictures from the side so you can see why they were cut off. Overall, much easier to do it this way as long as you have a plasma cutter.




Some overall thoughts and observations from today and recently:

#1 - The rear track bar is a gigantic heartless *****. It's off...but I hate that damn thing. The stock track bar frame bracket can eat me as well.

#2 - The passenger coil mount is perfect. It needs a little trimming but then the steering will clear it completely. The shocks will mount on the back of the new coil buckets and should come out very well.

#3 - Because of the "kick" of the pitman arm and steering box, it shoves the steering right into the track bar basically. This makes getting a billet pitman arm a very good idea. A billet arm can be bent on a press safely to have the steering pointed straight down instead of kicked back.

Ordered the last of the suspension parts from Dirt Fab today-

2 x 1-1/4 johnny joints w/jam nuts to complete the suspension
3 uppers, 1.75x.120 DOM, TIG'ed inserts
1.5x.250 track bar with TIG'ed inserts

I'll be using some Ruff Stuff 7/8" 3/4 bore heims for the track bar. I had them already and figured I'd try them out.,We'll see how I like them.

For those that asked, arm lengths, eye to eye, right now:

rear lowers 31.25"
rear uppers 32.25"
front lowers 28.75" (need to check this)
front uppers 28.75"

Just how I wanted it.
 
#230 ·
Still nothing from longevity but my pitman arm got here as well as some free LCA bushings from a local Jeeper named TDW. Thanks man! Also took off the other rear frame side coil bucket and cleaned up the frame. Still need to take off the front track bar bracket and all the upper control arm brackets but those might wait until its on it's own weight. They're gonna take a while.

Did some measuring of the billet pitman arm and the stock tie rod end (TRE) to reference that you CAN get it machined or reamed out to the correct taper. It's a 1/2" threaded hole when you receive the arm but the factory TRE is slightly bigger than that making it an easy job.

5" eye to eye, 1/4"-3/8" shorter in overall length than a stock TJ pitman arm and can be bent down to clear up more space.


.55 at its widest point


.58 at TRE smallest diameter


TRE largest diameter .61
 
#231 ·
Run a tapered reamer through it. You'll be fine.
 
#233 ·
All I've been doing the last couple days is fighting the pitman arm and collecting tools and parts. 5/8 drill bit, sawzall blades, pitman puller, etc. The puller is still sitting on the steering box with PB Blaster soaking. Still hasn't really budged.

I did make progress on my lower control arm bushings. I ended up having to cut them out with the sawzall. After that they just pressed in easily.


The Rusty's forged 2.63" joint, in it's bare form. 1-1/4" RH threads.


All done with the carnage in the background
 
#235 ·
Successfully read through your whole build thus far, and it only took me around 3 days haha. Excellent work! You've given me a few ideas for when I am taking welding next semester (still in highschool). The cut and re-positioned fenders. Hopefully your progress will continue to produce results.

OVERALL awesome build :highfive:
 
#237 ·
Snapped a pic of the three pitman arms. Billet on top, stock TJ in middle, Waggy on bottom


After thinking of how to beef up my link bridge I started making side braces and some cool ideas to put dimples in it, blah blah. Then it hit me...use the three holes already in the pumpkin and tie it into the diff.


After I burn in the link mounts I'll tie them into this gusset and add some side braces over the axle tubes


Still waiting on my swirl ring from Longevity. I think the snow had something to do with it. Should be in my mail box when I get home.
 
#238 ·
Swirl ring came in...school was cancelled today. So I had no choice but to work on the TJ

I spent the better part of the day cleaning up a bit and then dove head first into removing the front track bar mount from the frame. I had given it 10 minutes with a cut off wheel after the plasma quit and I told myself I wouldn't touch it again until the plasma was up again. Girlfriend snuck up on me and took some pics



I hate this thing...as I'm sure most people do. Small cutoff wheel, BFH and chisel go a long way to removing this thing.



Then I bolted up the billet pitman arm, got the axle in place, and tacked in the spring retainer. Then I mocked up the entire assembly at full bump to check for clearances now that the path was clear. I shouldn't have to bend the billet arm. I want a flat straight track bar at ride height so I can't completely build it until then. UPS is showing all my parts from Dirt Fab to be here tomorrow...which is also a snow day :welder:

couple pics...I can post more if anyone wants to see a certain angle



 
#239 ·
I used a sawzall and a grinder/cutoff and the trackbar mount popped right off. It is a big ***** though. Most people just have no clue how much material is actually there. Lol
 
#240 ·
Yeah it was QUITE hefty. I chose to plasma off the large chunk then hit the welds with a small cutoff wheel. Then smacked it a few times to get them to crack and chiseled under. If I had longer sawzall blades I would have used that instead. :rofl:

There's a good chance class is cancelled tomorrow. I got some small stuff done today but still waiting on UPS. Hope to have it sitting on it's own weight by the end of the weekend.
 
#241 ·
Well....UPS didn't come today. Bummer...but there's a lot of snow and ice that has slowed down everything around here. Oh well...today was another snow day. And they just emailed us....so is tomorrow :2thumbsup:

So I spent a part of today's garage time cutting wood for the fireplace in case the power went out. After that I got started on the rear bridge support. Came out well.



Three 7/16 bolts will hold it to the diff near the pinion and I will be drilling four 7/16 holes for plug welds in the bridge itself. Then a vertical 1/4" wall gusset will tie into the entire support all the way up into the two link tabs which will also have supports.

Then I wanted to add a little "flare" to my project. Something I can put a little extra work into that will set my rig apart. I still needed lower coil retainers, so I use some of the 10g aluminum that has been just sitting under my workbench.


Then knocked out some 3/4" holes and dimpled them. Gave it that brushed look and cleaned it up. Not sure if I want the dimpled side down or up.

this side up?



or this side?


 
#242 ·
Got this today for a good deal, 120 size. Filled it up on the way home, bought some wire and extra tips too. UPS won't deliver anything until monday or later....so this weekend I'll have to just work on all the other little stuff I can find. The only "big" thing to do is get the crossmember finished and that shouldn't take long.

I have no idea why the picture came out so crappy!
 
#247 ·
You're right I love it already! Need to fine tune the gas but it's already much easier.

So I got started with the bottle and new wire. I had about 10 feet of flux core left on the small spool I bought. Perfect timing! Then I wanted to practice by putting together a base and anchoring system for the cylinder on the welding cart. This is how it came out and I'm very open to some positive criticism to my welds from today-





in place on the bottom and I added the top part from my old welding cart that I sold with my Lincoln


All set. Needs casters and paint. Total cost so far - $0 from scrap


Started up on the crossmember again. Cut out the notch for the adapter


Then I cut a bevel into a 2" quarter wall bar on both ends


And bent it up


then put it in place and burned it in


did more CAD (cardboard aided design)


cut it out, smoothed it up, bent it to shape
 
#248 ·
drilled the mounting holes from the template I made


Bolted it up, set everything to how it will sit between the frame rails, and tacked it in place. Then took it off for final welding










I really like how it came out! Very stout and I love the design.





Also welded up the Ruff Stuff crossmember tabs to their plate. I also trimmed off about an inch from each plate in order to fit the frame better. Marked their locations on the frame so putting them back in place will be a breeze. First passes...needs another to be good to go.


close up...thought it was a cool pic
 
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