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Steering and more from Ruffstuff!The Ruffstuff 9" Disc Brake brackets!Offset Tie Rod Kit From RuffStuff!

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Unread 10-20-2011, 10:46 AM   #136
Imped
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FINALLY, **** starts to get intense. Get it dude.

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Unread 10-20-2011, 04:54 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekg View Post
Awesome !
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Originally Posted by mike_breaker_5 View Post
awesome, awesome, awesome, keep it up man. great build!
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Originally Posted by mikaus View Post
nice work. following this with interest
Thanks gents!

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Originally Posted by Hendrix View Post
Did I miss something? Are you doubling?

Sent from planet X.
No doubler. New drivetrain will be 4.0/np435/d300 with 4.10s in the axles still. I will do 4:1 gears in the tcase in the future though.

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FINALLY, **** starts to get intense. Get it dude.
Thanks I'm on it
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Unread 10-21-2011, 01:05 AM   #138
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Alright so I didn't get as much done today as I wanted. I did, however, get WAY more than I bargained for when I went to pickup the steel. He must have given me $700-$800 in steel and plate and another $400-500 in aluminum plate and sheet. He just wanted it to go to someone who would use it. That's my cue

np435 reassembly took place, 1 or 2 minor hiccups but it's almost all back together.

magnet and mount



Reverse idler



Lower shaft bearing

Part number for those that might need it


lower shaft set in place


Bearing installed on the end


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Unread 10-21-2011, 01:12 AM   #139
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I went out of order on a few things since the bearing retainer for the lower shaft was dirty still and needed some attention. Main bearing in-


Used my 20 ton press to get the main shaft pressed in


Then added all the other gears and syncros








Got the retainer cleaned up and put on




Whoops




Other bearing put in the syncro side


Input shaft installed


Here's the other hiccup - I don't know where this goes exactly. I think it's a spacer for the main shaft and input, but I'll find out tomorrow when I look at the np435 manual again, which is here by the way - http://home.comcast.net/~vx/NP435_Repair_Manual.pdf

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Unread 10-21-2011, 01:17 AM   #140
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Now for the really good part...the 2 hour trip to pickup a ton of steel and aluminum. Well worth it!

First of all, he's a former wheeler and gave me some Rubi slider take offs, which I can actually use right now.


Ton of aluminum plate and some of the steel bars he gave me. Some of the aluminum is 1/4"


That's .250 wall 2x2 tube and some angle. Yes, I'll be building a small press brake now!


4' x 30" 1/4" plate, good for brackets and a skid plate. Two sheets of 4x5 10g and one sheet of 16g


A TON of bar and plate and misc other fab material. Oh yeah, good things are about to happen with this stuff. I need a chop saw and a plasma!


Ford shock towers came in
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Unread 10-21-2011, 03:51 AM   #141
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Nice work! Loving all the photos.
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Unread 10-21-2011, 07:41 AM   #142
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Looks good man. But why would you want holes in your workbench?
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Unread 10-21-2011, 12:37 PM   #143
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Nice work! Loving all the photos.
Thanks, I'll have more after today's progress.

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Looks good man. But why would you want holes in your workbench?
What do you mean? The peg board? Or the slots in the bottom storage?
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Unread 10-21-2011, 03:39 PM   #144
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This ****s way over my head, but it cool to see the internals of everything how how they actually work.

Thanks for the education!
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Unread 10-21-2011, 07:43 PM   #145
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Liking the build man. Ive been watching for awhile now and will definitely keep up with it.

Question for you though, Why the np435? I get the granny gear and all but it seems you drive it on the road and from what i've always heard they are kind of dogs and hard to change which would make me worried if i ever had to hot rod it any.
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Unread 10-21-2011, 07:54 PM   #146
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So what is your plan for the shock towers? I just did rear outboards on my YJ last month with te same ones!

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Unread 10-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNWHITE View Post
This ****s way over my head, but it cool to see the internals of everything how how they actually work.

Thanks for the education!
You're welcome hopefully some of this helps others. These old manual transmissions arent very complicated.

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Originally Posted by LilSteve97TJ View Post
Liking the build man. Ive been watching for awhile now and will definitely keep up with it.

Question for you though, Why the np435? I get the granny gear and all but it seems you drive it on the road and from what i've always heard they are kind of dogs and hard to change which would make me worried if i ever had to hot rod it any.
I'm not sure where you got your experience from but that doesn't sound like the 3 speeds I've used. I had a np435 in my 72 F100 and I loved it. These transmissions are bullet proof and parts are dirt cheap. I don't see how it's any harder to change than a ax15. There's two less bolts and other than being a little heavier it's not really any different.

Granny gear is where it's at anyway!

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So what is your plan for the shock towers? I just did rear outboards on my YJ last month with te same ones!

Pretty much just that, typical outboard.

Thanks guys!
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Unread 10-22-2011, 10:59 PM   #148
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I finally found where to put the spacer...first step of assembly on the main shaft. Doh!



The reason why it's important


Finished up the "rebuild" on the bottom end and installed PTO plate and drain bolt


Then I boxed her up and sealed up every orifice so I can work on the front axle. I'll get to the top cover later on when I figure out the shifter and how I want it set up.
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Unread 10-22-2011, 11:12 PM   #149
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I notched the end of the some scrap DOM to fit on the coil bucket of the dana 30


Then I traced the outline of the dana 30 pumpkin using the crane cover as a base


Laying out the basic shape of the notch


Starting to take shape


Finally got it where I want it. Cut 3/4 way through the opposite side of the top of the last 1/2 inch of the tube. Then I hit it with a hammer and punch, forming it to a cap.


Trim here, nibble there, grind and grind some more


I was happy with the fitment so I started making the filler panel


Cut out some 10g which is just a little thicker than 1/8 inch


Then I did some testing with my blingin dimple dies. First I tried the 1.25" die on some 16g scrap




Then I used the .75" die. I guess this size requires a better hole saw because this ONE hole ate the teeth! The 1.25" hole saw is still going strong after 6 holes. I thought the .75" were too small for this application so I bumped up.

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Unread 10-22-2011, 11:16 PM   #150
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Here's how it came out






Mocked up





And a video of how the dimple is made. You can even see my Jeep in the background.

I'm thinking of using the .75" dimple on the outside of the filler plate. What do you guys think?
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