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Bilstein Shock Upgrade Kits, Jeep JK TJ XJ Wranglers and CJeep Wrangler Complete Gear Upgrade Kits with Installs andStainless Steel Door Hinge Pins

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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:20 PM   #1
gtxracer
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Location: olyWA
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GTX's low rider TJ build

For the fastest updates, follow me on Instagram: @Jeeps4Trevin

I'm nearly finished with the first "phase" of things. I know a few of my buddies on here have wanted to see it so I'm posting up.

First up, background-

'97 TJ Sport
4.0/AX-15/NP231
LP D30 with 3.55s
D35 with 4.10s
Smittybuilt bumper
chrome EVERYWHERE
sagging 4" Skyjackoff lift
3" bodylift...yeah, wow

The good stuff:

Full banks stainless exhaust, the good kind of header and flowmaster
came with a HP30 with 4.10s
got a great deal on it
swapped in 4.0 with less miles and all is good
Alpine deck and 6.5s, Kicker 5 1/4s
Came with 35 MTRs in good shape on black steelies
Sold some of the crap for cash
hard top
hard doors too

The plan (old, see last pages)
long arms - done, with stretch
0-1" suspension lift, 1" body lift done
cage
8.8 swap done
HP30 swap done
4.10s done
locked on both ends done
RCV shafts done
SYE + CV done
35" Krawlers on alum rims done
warn upright winch done
high line fenders done
sliders
rear corner armor done
front and rear bumpers

I'll add more to the list and update as time and build goes on.

This belonged to a guy's wife. She just liked having a lifted Jeep to ride around in, didn't care about 4wd or anything like that. Can't blame her, it's a cool Jeep. The sound of the full exhaust is awesome!

Pics when I got her


Euro tails :laughing:


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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:21 PM   #2
gtxracer
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HP30 needed some help, I'll let the pics speak for themselves. It's a XJ CAD model, first used a stock plate that I modified then ordered the kit from Randy's. Also used a SealsIt D30 seal for the passenger's side since the ones in the kit were of NO use to me at all :shaking: This looks like a '87 or '88 model so be warned, skip the kit and just buy a SealsIt and never look back.










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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:22 PM   #3
gtxracer
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You get the idea, did the whole thing up.



Pulled in the Jeep, swapped it over





You can modify the stock box to blockoff the CAD if you cut the shaft and reinstall the clips
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:23 PM   #4
gtxracer
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Found a lincoln 225 online. I learned on one of these, so I picked it up


Randy's kit, if you want it, this is what it looks like


stock fenders were beat up a little, so they had to come off






Cardan joint in the front shaft was fubar, bought a new shaft from a guy in PDX, he ran a sweet land cruiser shop
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:23 PM   #5
gtxracer
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stock airbox was held on by one bolt and I knew I didn't want it after the highline, so I tossed it and bought this cone filter for around $20







Still need to make a good mount for it

These gayass tails had to go


LEDs, gonna black them out soon





Did the front too
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:24 PM   #6
gtxracer
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Needed something up front to give me some kind of protection. Picked up some box stock to make a temporary stubby bumper and get better at using the lincoln.

One for the welding nazis


Few pics of how I did it




Cut out the back
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:24 PM   #7
gtxracer
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East Coast Gear Supply has great deals on 8.8s ready to go for TJs so I jumped on it. I basically got an 8.8 for the same cost of parts but it was already welded up and had 4.10s in it.




35 has to come out




Also swapped out the saggy 4" springs for stock Rubi stuff
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:25 PM   #8
gtxracer
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In


Only snag was the T adapter stud didn't quite line up. I'll weld it on in the original spot later. The E-brake cables were kind of a pain in the *** but no big deal.



Old next to the new before going in


slip yoke isn't going to be up to par



I'm not sure if all TJs come with the risers on the tcase to drop it about an inch, but my last TJ had them as well. Took those out, made the stock skid as flat as I could. You can see the angles in the above pics.

Snagged the Rubi takeoffs with shocks for $100



Just a couple pics underneath

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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:26 PM   #9
flatlander757
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Needs more trianglation






Welcome to JF buddy... why only 4:10s? You really need 4.88s or 5.13s for it to be great.

I'm guessing you got the 8.8 already geared to 4:10 so geared the front to match?
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Build thread here.

Quote:
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Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:26 PM   #10
gtxracer
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Nutserts are $15 each, good thing I just needed one and bought a spare.



Oh, and these bolts are hard to cutoff without some kind of torch or plasma. Grade 8 bolts eat sawzall blades :shaking:


Aussie before going in


Goodies from Rokmen arrived


231s getting swapped out


stock 231 vs SYE 231


Picked it up cheap, so I just swapped them. It was from a YJ so I had to swap some random plugs but that was it.

This big ***** tried to ****ing smother me. I didn't realize they were so damn thick and heavy. It's comparable to my RE skid but doesn't look like it. I thought maybe 30-40lbs but it must have been close to 60 or 70 and I didn't have a clue or a trans jack, haha.
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:26 PM   #11
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All this came out from the skid....wow


Pic from the workspace


Pics of the skid plate, pressed flat, like I was saying.




Pic of the Explorer CV shaft I had cut down. Also got the Spicer adapter on there



Old vs new


Nothing but grade 8
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:28 PM   #12
gtxracer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757 View Post
Needs more trianglation






Welcome to JF buddy... why only 4:10s? You really need 4.88s or 5.13s for it to be great.

I'm guessing you got the 8.8 already geared to 4:10 so geared the front to match?


Been lurking, figured I'd post up for more peeps. 4.10s with 4.0 and 5 speed ain't bad. I'll be doing a sm420 or np435 swap down the road so it will all make sense. Plus 4.10s are available in 8.8s and HP30s from the factory, makes it easy and cheap.
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:29 PM   #13
gtxracer
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Yank out those spider gears




Install the Aussie
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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:30 PM   #14
gtxracer
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Hit the corners with the flap disk


Then primer and hammered black


Then onto the lock right
Pull the carrier


Take off the ring gear, loosen bolts while in the housing. Take out the crush pin and center large pin


another view


remove the spider gears


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Unread 10-20-2010, 05:30 PM   #15
gtxracer
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Got this lockright from my ex-SEAL buddy...he's an awesome guy


slap it together, use grease to make it easier


Put the springs in


done, torque ring gear bolts to 80 ft lbs


Took these cone washers out too


old school torque wrench


Remember to properly mark everything


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