GTX's low rider TJ build - Page 16 - JeepForum.com

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post #226 of 676 Old 01-13-2012, 01:11 PM
Hendrix
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Got a question for you.

With (?) stretch what are your plans for the fender ? When you move the tire forward (?) inches the fender comes into play for contact. The region where the park lamp is at. Even high-lined it still will get in the way with a flexy Jeep like you are building.

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post #227 of 676 Old 01-13-2012, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
gtxracer
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I cut those off a long time ago

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post #228 of 676 Old 01-13-2012, 03:02 PM
Hendrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxracer
I cut those off a long time ago
Forgot, my bad.

I an running into that on my new build. I want to keep the factory look. But, stretch the front.

Do you know of any detailed threads on DIY high lines that retain all the factory fender and flare?
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post #229 of 676 Old 01-13-2012, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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No worries. Check this thread out: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=538391
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post #230 of 676 Old 01-15-2012, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Still nothing from longevity but my pitman arm got here as well as some free LCA bushings from a local Jeeper named TDW. Thanks man! Also took off the other rear frame side coil bucket and cleaned up the frame. Still need to take off the front track bar bracket and all the upper control arm brackets but those might wait until its on it's own weight. They're gonna take a while.

Did some measuring of the billet pitman arm and the stock tie rod end (TRE) to reference that you CAN get it machined or reamed out to the correct taper. It's a 1/2" threaded hole when you receive the arm but the factory TRE is slightly bigger than that making it an easy job.

5" eye to eye, 1/4"-3/8" shorter in overall length than a stock TJ pitman arm and can be bent down to clear up more space.


.55 at its widest point


.58 at TRE smallest diameter


TRE largest diameter .61
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post #231 of 676 Old 01-15-2012, 12:18 PM
Bennettj13
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Run a tapered reamer through it. You'll be fine.

::SELLING HALF OF MY JEEP::

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f33/?uid=152304

Rear Currie 4" coils - 190 shipped. (They've been sitting in the back of my Jeep for mock up but won't work out for me.)

Hornblasters Shocker S4 horn set with some extras $210 shipped. (It is not OBA, just an accessory for OBA)

"LCOG" isn't cheap and it certainly isn't easy. If you think so, you are doing it wrong. If you aren't willing to put in the effort, don't label your build "LCOG". You are just a cheap ******bag.

IndyORV- Dick and fart jokes, titties, throttle, flops, beer, tater balls, and good times.
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post #232 of 676 Old 01-15-2012, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I don't have one but I'm thinking of buying one. I remember reading that the stock taper is 7 degrees but need to check. There's a machine shop down the street that could probably do it for cheap.
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post #233 of 676 Old 01-16-2012, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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All I've been doing the last couple days is fighting the pitman arm and collecting tools and parts. 5/8 drill bit, sawzall blades, pitman puller, etc. The puller is still sitting on the steering box with PB Blaster soaking. Still hasn't really budged.

I did make progress on my lower control arm bushings. I ended up having to cut them out with the sawzall. After that they just pressed in easily.


The Rusty's forged 2.63" joint, in it's bare form. 1-1/4" RH threads.


All done with the carnage in the background
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post #234 of 676 Old 01-16-2012, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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I just went out to the shop to get something. Messed around with the pitman arm again and was tapping the bottom of the puller when the pitman arm just popped right off. Glad I had the nut on there still
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post #235 of 676 Old 01-17-2012, 09:35 AM
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Successfully read through your whole build thus far, and it only took me around 3 days haha. Excellent work! You've given me a few ideas for when I am taking welding next semester (still in highschool). The cut and re-positioned fenders. Hopefully your progress will continue to produce results.

OVERALL awesome build

'99 TJ "Topless Sarah" - 4.0L ('01) NP231 AX15 D30/D44 (daily)
Check my build:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/sarah-j250-1377179/
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post #236 of 676 Old 01-17-2012, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Manitoba I'm glad you liked it! It's a long read and there's a ton of pictures so I applaud you for making it through. I have more tricks up my sleeve that I'll be sure to post. Thanks again!
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post #237 of 676 Old 01-17-2012, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Snapped a pic of the three pitman arms. Billet on top, stock TJ in middle, Waggy on bottom


After thinking of how to beef up my link bridge I started making side braces and some cool ideas to put dimples in it, blah blah. Then it hit me...use the three holes already in the pumpkin and tie it into the diff.


After I burn in the link mounts I'll tie them into this gusset and add some side braces over the axle tubes




Still waiting on my swirl ring from Longevity. I think the snow had something to do with it. Should be in my mail box when I get home.
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post #238 of 676 Old 01-18-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Swirl ring came in...school was cancelled today. So I had no choice but to work on the TJ

I spent the better part of the day cleaning up a bit and then dove head first into removing the front track bar mount from the frame. I had given it 10 minutes with a cut off wheel after the plasma quit and I told myself I wouldn't touch it again until the plasma was up again. Girlfriend snuck up on me and took some pics



I hate this thing...as I'm sure most people do. Small cutoff wheel, BFH and chisel go a long way to removing this thing.



Then I bolted up the billet pitman arm, got the axle in place, and tacked in the spring retainer. Then I mocked up the entire assembly at full bump to check for clearances now that the path was clear. I shouldn't have to bend the billet arm. I want a flat straight track bar at ride height so I can't completely build it until then. UPS is showing all my parts from Dirt Fab to be here tomorrow...which is also a snow day

couple pics...I can post more if anyone wants to see a certain angle



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post #239 of 676 Old 01-19-2012, 05:06 AM
Bennettj13
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I used a sawzall and a grinder/cutoff and the trackbar mount popped right off. It is a big ***** though. Most people just have no clue how much material is actually there. Lol

::SELLING HALF OF MY JEEP::

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f33/?uid=152304

Rear Currie 4" coils - 190 shipped. (They've been sitting in the back of my Jeep for mock up but won't work out for me.)

Hornblasters Shocker S4 horn set with some extras $210 shipped. (It is not OBA, just an accessory for OBA)

"LCOG" isn't cheap and it certainly isn't easy. If you think so, you are doing it wrong. If you aren't willing to put in the effort, don't label your build "LCOG". You are just a cheap ******bag.

IndyORV- Dick and fart jokes, titties, throttle, flops, beer, tater balls, and good times.
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post #240 of 676 Old 01-19-2012, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennettj13 View Post
I used a sawzall and a grinder/cutoff and the trackbar mount popped right off. It is a big ***** though. Most people just have no clue how much material is actually there. Lol
Yeah it was QUITE hefty. I chose to plasma off the large chunk then hit the welds with a small cutoff wheel. Then smacked it a few times to get them to crack and chiseled under. If I had longer sawzall blades I would have used that instead.

There's a good chance class is cancelled tomorrow. I got some small stuff done today but still waiting on UPS. Hope to have it sitting on it's own weight by the end of the weekend.
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