Glockster's Rubihara Build - Page 6

Rubicon_TJ · 06-20-2009, 12:37 PM

So far they have been really good in mud. I haven't had them on a long road trip yet, but on the highways around town they do fine.

I still miss my BFG KM's though. They were the best tires I have ever run. Since I didn't like the design of the KM2, I got these MT/R's instead.

**glockster** · 06-22-2009, 10:48 PM

This is not really part of the build but routine maintenance instead. Since it's my thread I'm posting it. I turned 30,000 miles this weekend so I purchased some Valvoline 10w30 and a mobil M1-301 filter. Knocked that out pretty quick and then turned my attention to the transfer case.

Stopped at the local Jeep dealer and did my best to support them.

I got out of there quick when they told me a quart of 75/145 synthetic for the axles was $30 a quart and I needed 4 of them.

Looking around under the Jeep I knew I didn't want to drop the transfer case armor, it looks really heavy. So I unbolted the Rubi's locker pumps on the inboard side and used a socket to hole them out of the way.

Then I unscrewed the filler plug first and then the drain. I unscrewed it just enough to let the ATF+4 drain nice and slow into the recess in the cover and out through the hole. Worked like a charm.

Next step was to put the new stuff in. It looked exactly like the old stuff. I used my old sta-lube pump and it made quick work out of the task at hand.

Total time probably 45 minutes. Would have been shorter except for a slight accident that needed some clean up.

I posted this for reference only. For the guy who has never done it, like myself. Now I'm onto better things next weekend. Both diffs and the trans. It's a shame really that you only need a few drops from the 3rd quart, but it does provide extra. I save a quart of the old stuff also. I use it to coat everything under the jeep I can get to. Works really well. Makes black look like new and things don't stick so well next time. Wipe it on and wipe off the excess. I'll post some pix tomorrow.

Yeah.......I'm anal. But the bottom side of my Jeep looks brand new.

**glockster** · 06-28-2009, 12:04 AM

Tonight, following last weeks transfer case fluid change, I decided to change the fluid in my 6 speed transmission. Before I could start however I had to purchase the allen keys for the job. A 14mm (for the fill plug) and a 17 mm(for the drain). A quick trip to the Tool-r-us store and I was set. $24 for the 2 of them.

One word of caution if your going to purchase your own allen's. I was going to get a "set" of allen sockets but the very end of them where they go into the plug were rounded at the very tip. I read a few threads that said these "rounded" ends caused problems because the plugs are not that deep and there is not a lot of engagement. The allen keys I bought were perfectly square at the business end and fit perfectly.

Armed with the FSM required MS9224 syncromesh fluid, I got under way.

First thing to do was make sure I could get the "fill" plug out. It was suggested in many threads and makes sense. If you start by draining the fluid and then can't get the fill plug out, you're screwed. Well, the fill plug came out very easy. The drain plug wouldn't budge. So it was time for some help....from my 4' cheater bar (pipe actually). It was extrememly tight. It took a 4' pipe for heaven's sake. This trans has been out of this Jeep twice during it's short life and I didn't expect the plug to be so tight. Anyway, I digress. Moving on.

By the way, this synchromesh fluid looks like nothing more than 30 wt oil to the naked eye. While the fluid drained I took the drain plug to the work bench for inspection. Here is what it looked like.

The attached magnet doing it's job. Here's what the plug looks like cleaned up with one wrap of tape, 1 thread down from the end of it. I only use 1 wrap, for lubricaton of the thread and nothing else. Just personal preference. The plug had nothing on it when it came out.

Using my trusty Sta-Lube pump I pumped until the tail-tale sign of "full" was present:

Buttoned her up and cleaned up the mess. This is how much was left out of the 2 quarts I purchased. This is a 1 quart container by the way. An ounce or two at the most.

About a 1/2 hr job if your set up. It would have been difficult with out the Sta-Lube pump, there's not a lot of room up there between the exhaust and the tranny.

Until next weeks project:

My first time changing the tranny fluid in my rubi and I post this for reference only. Posted for the guy(s) or gals that have never done this before to their JEEPS and are searching for threads on how to do it.

Anybody catch Extreme 4x4 today? It was all about the KOH race from Johnson Valley. It's on again tomorrow. Pretty bad *** stuff. I was there......

Good Night.

**metomwhou** · 06-29-2009, 01:44 AM

First of all, great write ups! I have a potentially dumb question. You have manual tranny, so would the transfer case on your Jeep be different from the one on my auto? BTW, mine is also a non Rubi, probably answered my own question right there!

Thanks,
Tom

**glockster** · 06-29-2009, 08:41 AM

No such thing as a potentially dumb question. Well OK, maybe there is, but that's not one of them.

Yep, different. You have the 231, I have the 241. I would need to look in my FSM to see the difference as it relates to changing the fluid. I think the process would be the same.

Rubicon_TJ · 06-29-2009, 11:50 AM

Just to clarify - the difference in t-cases is a Rubicon vs. non-Rubicon issue, not a manual vs. automatic issue.

There is a good spec resource here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/stock-tj-specifications-452871/

**glockster** · 06-29-2009, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rubicon_TJ

Just to clarify - the difference in t-cases is a Rubicon vs. non-Rubicon issue, not a manual vs. automatic issue.

There is a good spec resource here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452871

Very good point. Thanks for clarifying that.

**metomwhou** · 06-29-2009, 11:15 PM

Well that makes sense, I knew there would be a difference between rubi and non-rubi, but I thought that only included a different gearing. My main thing was about the difference between auto and manual but if thats not the case, then cool beans!
Thanks guys,
Tom

**glockster** · 07-02-2009, 10:37 PM

WARN update.

I've been having trouble finding a satisfactory way to run the 3rd brake light harness from the tailgaste to the top of the tire carrier. The hinge for the tailgate and tire carrier are on completely different centerlines. I have it wired up and working but there is a lot of slack right at the hinge.

There is a post about WARN bumpers here:http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f59/tjs-warn-bumpers-798161/ in it I casually ask for pictures of how the guys are running there wiring. A member from California mentioned he hasn't run a 3rd brake light in 4 years and posted the vehicle code dealing with it. Well, I stopped by a CHP office today and low and behold he's right. The vehicle code says only 2 stop lamps required. So, it's coming off tomorrow I think. I'll add pictures tomorrow of what the wiring looks like.

xantasm · 07-03-2009, 08:47 PM

You could always just run a brake LED strip on your rear window (just so the dopey people see ya braking):
http://www.bigrigchromeshop.com/Merc.../MLIT/UP38471B

I'd run a high set rear brake light if I needed it or not, cause I dont trust other people to see the side ones. When I can afford a hardtop I'm going to do that, especially reading the problems you've had with wiring yours to a swingaway. Good stuff to know.

**glockster** · 07-03-2009, 11:33 PM

Here's some pictures of the WARN bumper.

Tailgate and tire carrier closed. This I can live with.

Tire carrier open and tailgate closed:

Tire carrier open and tailgate open, getting ugly:

And lastly everything wide open:

I bought some 1/4" split tube and extended everything and the brake light does work. I'm just less than enthused about it. I didn't take it off today. I really like the idea of having it up there.

**glockster** · 07-03-2009, 11:38 PM

Today I also got my windows tinted,

and got my RBQ 6 disc player installed that I purchased off a JF member.

One thing I noticed about the RBQ radio is it didn't have provisions on the back of it for the nut and stud to attach the support rod with. Must not be out of a TJ? It's plenty stout without it and I have no fear of it not being mounted secure enough, just another thing I noticed that I thought I would mention here. I really like knowing who the artists are and the name of the song. I just need to get the adaptor now so I can plug my GPS into it and listen to XM.

Rubicon_TJ · 07-04-2009, 04:20 AM

Did you pull the plastic splashguards out and look behind the areas circled in red?

If I remember correctly the feed to the contacts in the tailgate runs right behind here. You could splice in and the bypass the tailgate altogether by drilling a single hole, and adding a rubber grommet to protect the wiring.

Then the wires would be tucked out of harm's way, and they would be really close to the pivot point of your swing away carrier.

**glockster** · 07-04-2009, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rubicon_TJ

Did you pull the plastic splashguards out and look behind the areas circled in red?

If I remember correctly the feed to the contacts in the tailgate runs right behind here. You could splice in and the bypass the tailgate altogether by drilling a single hole, and adding a rubber grommet to protect the wiring.

Then the wires would be tucked out of harm's way, and they would be really close to the pivot point of your swing away carrier.

I'll take a look at it tomorrow. Hadn't thought of that, Thanks.

BrockGrimes · 07-04-2009, 08:22 AM

Had the same idea that or run the wire along the tailgate hinge then down to the swingout pivot point.
Use those stick on cable management things.