Glockster's Rubihara Build - Page 13

**glockster** · 11-04-2009, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fargo

Isn't is a little late then?...

Just kidding. I'm sure you mean you fill them before you think you might need them on a trip or something.

10-4

That's the thing I like about other Rubihara owners. They seem to be a little more with it than regular JEEP owners.

xantasm · 11-04-2009, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glockster

.

I havent tried themfull yet,just put em in dry for a while to see how I liked it. Wasnt bad but I was a little concerned I might back into something not being used to the rear end sticking out two feet more. I am debating getting some of these instead when I can afford it:

https://www.rotopax.com/

You could always mount the hi-lift on rear roll bars like I did, although I am debating using a set of 2" tube brackets I bought for fog light mounts and trying that.

ItsaFinRubicon · 11-09-2009, 09:57 AM

nice build up man. i miss my LJ. i have a reg rubi now.

**glockster** · 11-13-2009, 10:12 AM

What happened to your LJ?

This is my 2nd LJ. I started with a 97 TJ.

**glockster** · 11-13-2009, 01:54 PM

Well, just got back from a visit to Savvy Off Road. Met up with Gerald. Walked out with a Currie Anti-Rock that will be this weekends project. I will need to do some torching on the Body Armor front bumper to make things work but it should be well worth it.

Write-up and pictures to follow.

**glockster** · 11-14-2009, 11:27 PM

Got started on the anti-rock tonight. It's quite straight forward as far as the install goes except that my tube on the passenger side had a huge mound of welding slag in it that needed to be removed. So I busted out the die-grinder and went to work. Sorry about the blurry picture. I've just about got the slag gone in this picture.

Next was installing the bushings. No way that was going to happen without some massaging of both the tube and the bushing. Thank god for my air die-grinder which made short work of this.

Then with the help of a 3 lb hammer I was able to get the bushings to seat properly.

More tomorrow.

xantasm · 11-15-2009, 04:42 PM

Looking forward to seeing it done and flexing

**DBLJ** · 11-15-2009, 06:13 PM

I love my Antirock. I didnt have one bit of trouble getting my bushings in. I just got a hammer and a block of wood.

**glockster** · 11-15-2009, 08:33 PM

I tried the big hammer thing and it wasn't happening. Once I got the welding slag out of the hole I had to do some more work on the bushings and the holes themselves. Then I had success with the BFH and a block of wood. The rest of the install of the anti-rock is quite simple.

I new I was going to have to make some modifications to my Body Armor front bumper as it's mounting ears cover over half of the tube. So, out came the torches and grinder. I wanted to follow the radius of the bushings but that turned out to be about 210* and would have required removing the anti-rock and it's bushings anytime I wanted to get the bumper off in the future. As you can see, I ended up just slotting it so there would be no future interference.

**glockster** · 11-15-2009, 08:51 PM

With the bump stop just touching I had clearance all the way around the arm and bushing.

On the bumpstop with the tire stuffed:

The anti-rock working flawlessly:

The other front tire:

The spring just beginning to un-seat.

I was pretty much driving around disco'd all the time because the ride is so much better then with the stock swaybar hooked up. The RE GEN II disco's work easy enough but I wanted something a little softer on road and the anti rock is perfect for my tastes. Not to mention it's great off-road without the need to get out and pull the pins.

A definite keeper for sure, with very easy installation.................unless you have a bumper that covers the frame tube.

I need to thank Gerald at Savvy Off-Road for getting this for me at the last minute Friday afternoon at a great price. It helps being 10 minutes away from his shop.

ImpactFabWorks · 11-17-2009, 07:59 PM

hope you enjoy your new doors

**glockster** · 11-17-2009, 10:51 PM

Thanks again Brian.

Picked up tonight via Craigslist.

Guess I'll be breaking out the old spraygun soon.

**glockster** · 11-27-2009, 11:34 PM

Yesterday while perusing 4 wheel parts' website, I noticed a decent deal on WARN winches. With the wife's permission to "go get your damn x-mas present" I was off to the Azusa store as they were the only store within driving range that had one a powerplant in stock. Got there this morning (black friday)and found out they had an additional 5% off everything between 9am and noon. You probably know what I spent the rest of the day doing.

I really wanted the powerplant but after taking some measurements and holding one up by my front bumper, I decided it's just to damn big. Looks awkward on the front of a TJ and blocks way too much of the grill for my liking. The manager said they have gotten a few complaints about increased temperature when the powerplant is installed on the TJ's. Not wanting that whole scenario to effect me, I settled on the 9.5ti. I also don't think the powerplant would have fit under the top light bar on my Body Armor front bumper. It's a full 4" taller than the 9.5ti. In my picture below you can see how close the fit is between the bar and the 9.5ti.

Hopefully I can get it wired up tomorrow or Sunday. Any of you winch owners use any type of switch on the hot side (+) to remove power from the winch until you need it? It kinda bothers me to have power to the winch all the time. Guess I'll have to do a search on the topic.

xantasm · 11-28-2009, 12:02 AM

You could just run a battery disconnect switch in between your winch and your battery. There are several types out there but for what your talking about I would think this kind should work nicely:

Amazon.com: Battery Disconnect Kill Switch Racing Pollak 51-302: Automotive

BTW I've run my XD8000i for a year and its never caused any drain on my electrical system yet. I think Warn did a good job of isolating their control box so it doesnt cause a drain when its not activated. Although a kill switch is a good safety feature as well.

**glockster** · 11-28-2009, 09:16 AM

It's not so much the drain on the system that concerns me, it's always having power to the winch. I guess I just think that's unnecessary. I found a thread from 4 years ago that discusses this and originally everyone said it's not necessary including Jerry B. Then fast forward to early 09 and Jerry himself put a disconnect switch on the + line between the battery and winch. I'm still researching it. Thanks for the input.

I'll definitely check out that product. From what I've read, it needs to be rated at or around 400 amps. The one Jerry is using looks good but he didn't remember the manufacturer.