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JK Vent Covers - NalinMFGRCV Axles at CCORPoison spyder items @ oconee off road 706 534 9955

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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:35 PM   #46
gcjeeping
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Wired up in cab winch control. Covered lighted safety power switch to turn it on and double throw switch to operate the winch. My winch already had a 4way trailer connector coming out of it from the factory for this purpose.











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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:35 PM   #47
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Had some metal left over from my belly skid so I made a oil and trans pan skids. The oil pan skid looks likes AEV's. The Trans is custom.

I also welded in a drain plug and put one of those quick release drain plugs.

I had some dents in rust on my trans pan so after I drained it I pushed the dents out, wire wheeled the rust off, Welded the drain plug in, then primed/painted it.

Just gotta make diff guards and the bottom should be protected.



The Oil skid is bolted to the lower two flywheel shield bolts and and one on the side to existing threaded holes up on the side of the block. I notched out the part where I can get to the drain plug without removing the skid.














The trans pan skid sandwiches the brace I had already welded to the trans support I built before. Then it has a upright brace on the front that stops the front from getting pushed up.














And a couple more of the trans support and belly skid.






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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:36 PM   #48
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Went to an estate sale on Wed in Columbus OH (a little over an hour away) and saw a couple LED light bars (3). They were 40" and have 80 LEDs. They looked just like the one I put on my friend wrangler that he got from Rigid Industries. There is no markings on them So I dont know who made them. They were tagged $400 each. No boxes, instructions just lights, switches and harnesses.

They wouldn't let me test them there so i was unsure about them. When I was leaving the guy that worked there said I could leave a bid on them and if they didn't sell I could get them for the bid. So I put in a bid on them of $200 each ($600 for all).

Well got a call a call this afternoon saying they accepted my bid on two of them and come and get them. Hauled my butt there and told the guy I wanted to test them before I paid and he let me. He said the third one went for $300. They both lit up and I handed him the money and off I went.

I'll have too see what the light output is tonight. They are petty heavy and seem well made with glass covering the LEDS. The have weather seal connectors and lighted switches. The housing is finned and appears to be cast aluminum as are the mounting legs.

Now if I can just find a high pinion 44 I'd be happy.

Here are some pics of them.













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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:36 PM   #49
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Toyed with a-pillar light brackets.

20 min and walla.





















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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:37 PM   #50
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Dunno. If I do put lights on the A-pillar they will be smaller or round LEDs.



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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:38 PM   #51
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Ver 2

Cut it down 1/2" and added a front cover with a hole for wire or wire loom.







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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:38 PM   #52
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So I built me a little roof rack for my new, to me, LED light bars.

It's made of 1" thin wall tube. $24 for the tube, $10 for the grating, a few cans of paint, bed liner, stop leak spray and misc nuts/bolts. Bending the tube.






Cutting some scrap diamond plate for the supports.






Upper and lower tubes welded together.












Cross braces cut and in and grating test fit.









Light bar test fit.










Roof supports, 4 each side. They sit in the roof channel. 1" x 1/8" bottoms with diamond plate uprights. I RTV'd them in and used a can of stop leak spray on the base and bolts to help seal them.










Test fit rack to roof supports.








Taped off roof. Bought plastic snap in plugs to fill the original roof rack holes. RTV'd them in. Then 2 coats of bed liner.






Ready to weld grating on




Grating welded in.



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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:39 PM   #53
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Primed and painted.






Accessories added. Air horns, PA and ammo can from a 20MM UALS. Light bars and BU flood lights will go on after its on.











Roof rack all done and mounted with LED bars.









low beams- yeah they are dim because there is a thin film of dirt on them.




High beams.



1 LED bar.



2 led bars

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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:39 PM   #54
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Spent a few hours putting mud on it. Then a few hours pressure washing the mud off it. Still gotta clean the inside. I hate mud.





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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #55
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Redesigned the front of the roof rack. Made it go down instead of up. I like it a lot better.

OLD





NEW







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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #56
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Added a couple KC style lights to the front and a few floods to the back. The back floods are wired to a switch and wired to come on with the back up lights also.









KC's

Lows then KC's







Back ups on.





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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:45 PM   #57
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Trimmed the rear fenders. Same as most people do. Cut, bent, welded, panel adhesive, primed and painted. Yeah the dents were there before I started. LOL



















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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:45 PM   #58
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Got tired of my CB bolted to the top of the dash. So I cut it up and fitted the radio, CB, and Whelen controller into it and made a cover. The Whelen controller is wired up to control all the lights, OBA back up lights, rock lights and future accessories.

First, cut up the dash to make room.





Took some sheet metal and made a faceplate. Also cut a hole for the switch that controls my dual battery isolator. Was going to paint it black but found some carbon fiber stick on vinyl at Pep Boys on clearance.







So since I had the carbon fiber I decided to copy Thomahawk and do the other trim pieces also in the center console. The bottom of piece of the console I had contained the ashtray. But since I had another one with a cubby I decided to use that and put a speaker I had laying around for the external CB speaker. Fit perfect. I had to cut the top off the vent panel for this mod.















Next I made the cover. Used wood for this. Put a curve on the back and rounded the sides. Then I put a layer of bondo and formed it to the shape I wanted. Finally I covered it with black vinyl. I tried to match the gray but couldn't. If I fine some later I will recover it.







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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:46 PM   #59
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I picked up a fuse box from a local liquidation place for 3 bucks so I can try and keep everything tidy under the hood since I'm usually not doing that.



I fabbed a bracket for the fuse box from some scrap I had and mounted it to the batt hold down. Also some of the relays are from an early XJ engine bay. They are nice since the have the receptacle and are modular.









I made a cover for it from some scrap plastic I had. I heated it up with a heat gun and formed it to cover the fuse box.






I made a bracket for all the relays I was going to use for the Whelen controller.



Used wire loom under the hood to cover all the wiring I added.



The Whelen didn't have covers for the selectors for the switches so I went on line and found picks of switch labels and made some for mine. Used Power Point to make the symbols. Printed them and then used laminating paper to cover them. Cut them out and inserted them into the Whelen.





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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:47 PM   #60
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When the Whelen is on the switch labels show green, but when you select one it changes to red. I have the slider switch set up to Pos 1= KC lights, Pos 2= Both LED light bars and Pos 3= KC's and light bars together. I also have them set up that they will only come on when the high beams are on. Also Its nice now to have the Blue Sea batt isolator switch installed so now I can switch the batt's from 1 to 2 to off from the cab.







Finally all assembled and working. And yes I do have an external PA speaker on top and the sirens work. I have a kill switch hidden to disable the PA just in case PO-Po has a problem with the Whelen in the Jeep. I also have the CB hooked into the Whelen so it can rebroadcast the CB ext speaker through the PA. All in all I like it.





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