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XHD Heavy-Duty Hood Latches for JK and TJ available at OcoRCV Heavy Duty Axle Shafts Now Shipping at Baseline4x4.comStainless Steel Door Hinge Pins

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Unread 07-27-2011, 11:54 AM   #91
NW99XJ
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The Jeep Creed

disclaimer: I was just being creative with a slight altering of the Marines "Rifleman's Creed" ....so if your a hardcore military supporter please don't be offended.
The Jeep Creed
__________________________________________________ ______________
This is my Jeep. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My Jeep is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My Jeep, without me, is useless. Without my Jeep, I am useless. I must drive my Jeep true. I must conquer the trail that is my enemy, the trail is mocking me. I must conquer the trail before the trail conquers me. I will...
My Jeep and myself know that what counts in this world is not the mud we kick up, the noise of our exhaust, nor the ruts we make.
We know that it is the mods that count. We will mod...
My Jeep is human, even as I, because it is my life. Thus, I will learn it as a brother, and treat all other Jeepers as brothers. I will learn its weaknesses, its strength, its parts, its accessories, its linkage and its gears. I will ever guard it against the ravages of being stock, as I will ever guard my legs, my arms, my eyes and my heart against damage. I will keep my Jeep prepared and ready. We will become part of each other. We will...
Before Mud, I swear this creed. My Jeep and myself are the defenders of the off-road. We are the masters of dirt. We are the saviors those who are stuck.
So be it, until all hills are climbed and there is no pavement, but dirt!

__________________________________________________ ______________

Figured this was worth posting up, so if your passionate about your Jeep and off roading like I am, please give me a thumbs up, and let me know what you think of this -thanks for reading!

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Unread 08-07-2011, 11:42 PM   #92
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Update

Well I've been slacking horribly on getting all the latest developments posted up, and I'm WAY behind. So here's the latest:
The new rear drive shaft has been modified, and the assembly all put together using all new Spicer U-joints. The SYE is also done, has been tested, put WELL thru its paces, and is holding up very nicely. (it was one hell of an ordeal, I'll show you what happened below.) I had a nasty dent in the down pipe (post header - pre cat) and that's been fixed. I've also installed the extended rear stainless steel braided brake line - haven't gotten around to the fronts yet, but will soon. I haven't taken a pic of the new brake line in yet, and since its all one shade of dried dirt/mud/dust tan now, you wouldn't be able to distinguish it from anything else under there anyways.
So on to the write up:
As you recall the new rear drive line was actually an old front drive line from a 94 ZJ. Along with the new spicer U-joints, and the required CV Flange I had all my parts to go along with the R.E. Hack 'n' Tap SYE.
The stock set up was the only thing in my way... well almost the only thing.

Once that was out, it was on to the "hacking" part of the SYE.


I measured (twice) and marked where I needed to cut. Leaving the appropriate 1.25" of splined shaft left.

Then the shaft was trimmed.
Here's video of the second and third cutting sessions of the shaft. Each session was about a minute long and five minutes in between to allow for cooling.
The transmission was in reverse, the transfer case in 2WD, and the engine running.


Third and final cut:


I drilled the shaft using the supplied bit, (working my way up to it, starting with an 1/8" then, 1/4" and so on) until the large 21/64" on the final drill.
What I learned in doing this is that even with a cold wet rag wrapped around the shaft, heat can build up (substantially), and over the course of the work being done.... this "heat treats" the steel, causing it to harden. I also learned that these shafts are "Case Hardened" meaning that the outside is harder than the center. I went thru several bits getting that hole drilled, but finally got it.
Then it was time to tap it. I used the supplied tap, and generous amounts of cutting oil.

I was about 3/4 of the way done when the worst happened:

That's right, the tap broke clean off.

Those pics are taken AFTER I tried every method under the sun to remove said broken tap. I tried drilling, I tried a carbide ball end mill, I even tried a Walton Tap Extractor, with no luck. In fact the tap extractor's splines even broke off in there. I only had one option left... replace it.
So I dropped the case, split it open, removed the main shaft, got a different one to swap it out, and started in on the modification of it.

The problem was... when I went to put it in, I noticed that the journals were slightly different. So the 4 hours in the machine shop at work spent modifying it was all for nothing. Found out the shaft I picked up was out of a 249, not a 242. No way of telling they're different until you get it stripped down. The guy was cool though (thanks a million Mudb8) and found me one for a 242, which I took back to the shop at work and started in on the mods.
Here it is on the lathe.

Getting the drill and tap absolutely centered on the shaft while it's still in the vehicle is not as easy as some say. The lathe made easy work of it, and I shaved the time down to 2 hours on the second go around. The results were perfect.

So with the case split and the new shaft modified, it was all ready to go back together.
Here's a shot of the case open:

And all put back together and ready to go back into the Jeep:

And all installed with the new flange on:

There was an issue getting the new Rear Output Shaft Seal put on,

It rolled just slightly. Right where the groove is for the tension spring... Causing a nasty leak. Those seals are EXTREMELY finicky, the slightest of imperfections and they'll leak. It took me three tries to get it right.
Here's a tip for putting them on: Wrap the C-clip journals with electrical tape. Go all the way down to the point on the shaft where the seal will seat. Start down towards the case, and wrap your way up to the end of the shaft, this will allow you to unravel it all after the seal is installed. Use an insane amount of grease and lube up the shaft, watch the edges of the cut splines as you slide the seal on, they can nick the inside diameter of that seal. Rotate the seal as you put it on and it will seat perfectly.
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Unread 08-08-2011, 12:50 PM   #93
Topaz45
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Just sat here and read this entire build thread from start to finish no Doubt you should be titled the "Craigs List King"

Great Looking Jeep Sitting back watchin and lookin for more great ideas
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Unread 08-08-2011, 01:02 PM   #94
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So does that mess with the t case wish you had went with an AA kit?
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Unread 08-12-2011, 03:07 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaz45 View Post
Just sat here and read this entire build thread from start to finish no Doubt you should be titled the "Craigs List King"

Great Looking Jeep Sitting back watchin and lookin for more great ideas
Thanks man.. .I really appreciate the feedback. I'm not a wealthy man like most of us here... so I'm always on the hunt for a good deal. Craigslist has been a great tool for accomplishing that goal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitexj98 View Post
So does that mess with the t case wish you had went with an AA kit?
No It doesn't mess with the T-case at all. It was a direct output shaft replacement. I have the NV 242, and the new shaft was from a different NV242. So all the internals swapped over and went right into place. Since I was using the Rubicon Express Hack & Tap SYE.... I had to modify the end of the output shaft... which was the part that protrudes out from the back end of the T-case. This involved cutting about 1.5" of shaft off, and drilling and tapping the end, so that the new flange could be bolted on. This in no way affects the internals of the T-case itself. There is only one company that offers a new HD short shaft swap for the 242, and thats Tom Woods. Because of the internal differential and the the rest of the guts that make the 242 so different from the NP231, this kit is nearly $800.... (there's a $200 core built into that price, but still....) thats a bit too rich for my blood. I wheeled HARD on this set-up the week after i installed it, and it held up fine. There's no vibrations, and nothing worked its way loose. I totally recommend this SYE to anyone with a 242 T-case over swapping it out for a 231.
If anyone in my area would like me to do this mod to their shaft I'd be happy to discuss it with you.
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Unread 08-12-2011, 09:28 PM   #96
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Rest of the Update:

Ok, so after a few tries on the output shaft seal, (I finally got it right using the trick I mentioned previously. Its been several weeks, and a weekend long wheeling trip, and it hasn't passed a drop.) I went to put in the new drive shaft.
As I mentioned before, it was a front shaft from a 94 ZJ. I cleaned it up, painted it, and put in all new sealed Spicer U-Joints.
Here it is after I cleaned it all up, and before I painted it.


After the pint and before the re-assembly:

And here it is with the new U-joints and the Double Cardan Joint put in:


So when I went to put it in, I realized that my measurements (from mocking it up on my workbench) had been off. The new shaft assembly ended up being 1.75" too long.
Here's the new shaft, and the old side by side:


I got hooked up (threw Mudb8 - thanks again man!) with a local guy who does FANTASTIC drive line work out of his garage. He was a former drive line tech, and was fully equipped with a couple of massive lathes. He double checked my measurements, took my drive line, shortened it, balanced it, and even threw on another coat of paint. All for the same price as some of the other shops around here charge for a balancing alone. Plus got it back to me in one day!! IF you need any work, and are in my area, PM me, and I'll get you in touch with him.
Now that I have my shaft back, and its the proper length, I put it in.
Went in like a dream. Everything lined up right, and it looks great too.




Some people aren't big fans of the Hack 'n' Tap SYE. I prob wouldn't use this kind of set up for competition rock crawling. But for the average daily driver/weekend wheeler, this set up works just fine. I went for a weekend long wheeling trip with Jolly Jeepers, for their annual "Back to Basics" run, which ended up being anything but. I was running with wranglers, and CJ's, most of which were locked front and rear, ALL of which were running 35's or bigger tires, (only one had 33's) and I managed to keep up for the most part. (needed a tug once on the first day, and a winching once on the second day.) It rained over 3/4" the first night, and never really let up. It was crazy muddy on the trails, insanely slippery, and hard to get any traction. I really put my rig to the test, and really put this SYE thru its paces. Everything held up fine. I did have some minor carnage, but I'm very pleased with how my rig held up.
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Unread 08-12-2011, 10:15 PM   #97
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Carnage

And speaking of carnage, that weekend trip lead to two small bits of damage.
The first was a rock that came out and took a bite out of my rim:

Nothing I can do about that. I do have a spare that I'm going to swap over, so at least I'll have four good rims back under me. As for the damaged one, i'll prob scrap it, or hold on to it, just in case some real damage occurs to one of the other ones.
The second bit of carnage was my rear diff. The rocks were out to get me that weekend.
The Chrysler 8.25 held up well, and after sliding right onto a rock, it only bent the cover's lip up a little bit:



I did try to fix it up. Hammered the lip back as best I could, and Filled in the gap with RTV.


It didn't work as well as I had hoped. It did slow the leak quite a bit, but was by no means a permanent fix.
My only option was to replace it. So I picked up something that should turn out to be a bit better than stock:


My new Solid Rear Differential Cover is BEEEEEFY! And they're easy to install.
I pulled the old cover off.......

....cleaned up the mating surface real good, and layed a bead of RTV down before putting on the new cover. I really REALLY wish I could've thrown a locker into that carrier while I was at this point, but the budget just doesn't cut it right now for that kind of upgrade.
The new cover went on, but not without difficulty. The Chrysler 8.25 Cover from Solid is a fairly new model for them, and from what I understand, hasn't been out on the market for all that long. What MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE showed me, was that the holes did not line up perfectly. It DID go on, but it was VERY hard to get lined up, and in fact I ended up having to re-use some of the old hardware, because for some reason the new Socket Head Cap Screws that were provided did not want to start right. If I was to do it all over again, I would have reamed out the holes in the cover by another 1/16" or so. giving me a little more room to get everything lined up perfectly.

Its been a few weeks now since I've put it on, and there's no leaks. I'm in no hurry to drag it across any rocks, but I'm sure that If it ever came down to it, it will hold up better than the OEM cover.
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Unread 08-12-2011, 10:36 PM   #98
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JUNE 30th EXHAUST REPAIR

A couple months ago I was under the Jeep and noticed a big A$$ dent in my down pipe. That's the part after the header, but before the Cat.
Not sure how it got there, or when it happened, and cant remember if it was there from the previous owner or not. Either way... it was a massive restriction and had to be dealt with.



Those pics were taken the day it got swapped out (6/30/2011) - just kept forgetting to post it up. The muffler shop around the way ended up cutting that whole section out, (thats what you see in the pics) and bending up a whole new piece from scratch, and welding it in, including a new bung hole for the o2 sensor. They also told me that I'll need to replace my catalytic converter real soon, as the one that's in there is likely the original. Not sure the direction i'm going to go with that, whether it'll be a high flow, or a direct OE replacement.
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
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Unread 09-02-2011, 11:17 PM   #99
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Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushing Upgrade

So I finally got around to installing the new sway bar bushing kit that's been laying around for like a month or more. And since the kit came with more than just the frame bushings, I decided to make some modifications/ upgrades to the home brew dico's that I made a while back. They've been working great, but sometimes they'd give me a little "clunk" over potholes or going over speed bumps. So here's how it went:
First some shots of the old set up:


As you can see the frame bushings were well worn out:


Here it is (sway bars too) completely pulled out:


I decided once it was out to clean it all up and give it a fresh coat of paint too:


Here is the old worn out fame side bushings compared to the new Energy Suspension ones:


So what I decided to do was to put part of the bushing kit in between the disconnects and sway bar itself, in hopes of dampening some of the vibrations and bumps that are being transferred directly through the frame.
Here's what the upgrade looked like once I was done:


As you can see I now have another bushing where there was none before:


Here it is all installed:


And as you can see.... no more gap between the bushing and the sway bar:


They're doing some paving on some of the roads around my house, and the pavement is pretty rough and beat up. On the test drive I immediately noticed a huge difference. Going over some railroad tracks, no more clunks! Going over some pot holes and the big speed bumps in my neighborhood.... no more bumps... Bottom line, I would recommend this kit to anyone, especially if you've got a set of home brew quick disconnects. At $30..... not a bad investment at all.
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Unread 09-15-2011, 12:49 PM   #100
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Man that that tap breaking must have sucked, I would have been so pissed! Anyhow your Jeep is coming along great

I also have that same exact weird dent in my down pipe, can't figure out what its from, it seems to be in the same spot too.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 06:02 AM   #101
botakbeng
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NW99XJ View Post
A couple months ago I was under the Jeep and noticed a big A$$ dent in my down pipe. That's the part after the header, but before the Cat.
Not sure how it got there, or when it happened, and cant remember if it was there from the previous owner or not. Either way... it was a massive restriction and had to be dealt with.



Those pics were taken the day it got swapped out (6/30/2011) - just kept forgetting to post it up. The muffler shop around the way ended up cutting that whole section out, (thats what you see in the pics) and bending up a whole new piece from scratch, and welding it in, including a new bung hole for the o2 sensor. They also told me that I'll need to replace my catalytic converter real soon, as the one that's in there is likely the original. Not sure the direction i'm going to go with that, whether it'll be a high flow, or a direct OE replacement.
I think all 99 came like this .


Does it really cause any restriction?
Any difference with your new pipe?
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Unread 09-16-2011, 06:06 PM   #102
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why didnt you just ditch that whole rear swaybar altogether?
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Unread 09-21-2011, 10:51 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back_In_Black View Post
why didnt you just ditch that whole rear swaybar altogether?
Thats actually the front sway bar not the rear. (notice the steering knuckles on the axle and the pitman arm in the last two photos?) - also the disconnects.....
My rear sway bar has been gone since I first installed the lift.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 11:03 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmiller015 View Post
Man that that tap breaking must have sucked, I would have been so pissed! Anyhow your Jeep is coming along great

I also have that same exact weird dent in my down pipe, can't figure out what its from, it seems to be in the same spot too.
Yea that tap breakage really screwed me, missed out on one wheeling trip, had to drive around in "front wheel drive" for a week or so, not to mention all the wasted time, labor, and tools going into the first shaft. But its done now, done right, and has been holding up quite well. I look at it as a learning experience now. And now I also have the knowledge to do it again either form myself on another rig or for someone else!

....As for the exhaust, well now I'm wondering if it was supposed to be there (cant think of a single reason why though)... i'll have to crawl under a couple other Cherokees and see if its there on those next time i see one in a parking lot or something.
I'll be swapping out my catalytic converter soon too, so the only thing left will be the headers and my entire exhaust system will be high flow! (cant wait)
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Unread 09-21-2011, 11:44 AM   #105
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Several of us from the local Oregon Jeepforum community went wheeling over the weekend, figured I'd post up at least a couple pics from the trip, enjoy!

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