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Unread 05-10-2011, 12:15 PM   #76
-Rudy-
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Looks awesome with the 31's. Great build!

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Unread 05-12-2011, 11:44 PM   #77
NW99XJ
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Home Made Adjustable Sway Bar Disconnects

The objective: To fabricate and install a set of Home Made Adjustable Sway Bar Disconnects.

Let me first start off by giving credit where credit is due. I got this idea from Scotch740 here on Jeepforum. He did something very similar, and it is his idea where I got the concept from. His write-up can be found here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/b...nnects-538245/

Note: This specific set up, parts list, and installation process will only work for those with aftermarket sway bar links or links that have the bracket on the upper mount.... those with out will have additional fabrication involved.
See Scotch740's post above for how he made his own bracket.


What I was going for was something with a few less parts, very strong, and easy to use, but the bottom line, was well, the bottom line. I wanted to make sure that the cost of doing this was going to be way cheap, but not so low that I'd end up with an inferior product.
The parts list is as follows:
(4x) 1/2-20 Female Rod Ends - McMaster-Carr p/n: 44447231 ___$6.98 ea.
(1x) 1/2-20 all thread x 12" Long ___$5.98 (napa auto parts)
(4x) 1/2-20 Hex Nuts ___$0.58 ea. (napa auto parts)
(4x) 1/2-13 x3" Hex Bolt ___$1.78 ea. (home depot)
(6x) 1/2-13 Hex Nuts ___$0.52 ea.(home depot)
(2x) 1/2-13 Wing Nut ___$.098 ea (home depot)
(8x) 1/2" Flat Washers ___$.078 ea. (home depot)

Grand Total: $54.66

Here's how it all goes together, and the install process:
First I took off the existing sway bar links. (these are what came with my ProComp lift kit)


Once those are out of the way, it was on to the most difficult of the whole process, getting the OEM axle mount (T-55 Stud) out of the tab that comes off the axle.
Here is what i'm talking about:


My best advice is to do the following: HEAT IT UP and I do mean TORCH it! I did this with a propane canister and a torch nozzle from Harbor Freight:


It was less than $15 and made things ALOT easier. Once I torched it for a good solid 5-7 minutes, I got my T-55 on the end of a breaker bar and started working it loose. It broke free and started to spin, thats when I used a 2 prong puller to "push" it thru the bracket.




As you can see the very end of it is a slightly larger diameter and knurled, this is what is pressed into the bracket on the axle. THIS is why they can't be just turned out. Once that was out of the way it was on to the assembly process.
The old sway bars had a bracket on the upper side that I intended to re-use. The holes in the sides were set up for smaller hardware, so those were drilled out to accommodate 1/2" hardware:


Then I extracted the old metal sleeves from the inside of the sway bar link bushings. These were cut down to make the spacers.


The spacers are what goes in between each side of the bracket and the Heim Joint of the rod end. (You'll see what I mean here in a minute.) These sleeves are steel, so cutting them wasn't easy, they later had to be ground down to proper flatness and for fitment. I highly recommend the use of a bench grinder to do that part of it. Cutting them to the rough size you'll need (aprox. 1/2") can be done with a vice and a hack saw. The 1/2-20 allthread rod had to be cut in half as well. This gave me two 6" pieces of all thread. (duh) These will be the "Arms" of the new links. That's pretty much it for the custom fabrication part of things. Now it was time to put it all together.
Laying all the parts out (for one side) this is how it looks:

Another look:


A close up of the rod end:


Here's how the upper side goes together. (note: the gaps seen here go away when it is all wrenched down, in this photo, it was just finger tight) Washers on the outside, the 1/2-13 x3" hex bolt thru the middle with the rod end in the center, sandwiched between two spacers:


In my case (and I'm sure its this way on most cherokees) the mount for the sway bar on the axle is to the outside of the upper mount on the sway bar itself. Since I got the grease-able rod ends, I wanted to make sure the zirks were facing out (forward), so the offset of the mounting point for the upper bracket had to be taken into account.

Now i just put the rod ends onto the allthread. The 1/2-20 hex nuts go on first, these will act as jam nuts to prevent the rod from spinning. Once done the finished product looked like this:


You've seen how the upper side mounts to the sway bar, (you'll see it installed here in a minute) ...but the lower side (axle mount) is something a little different, and may end up getting changed to something else later down the road. But I went this direction because it was inexpensive, and resulted in a "clunk free" set up. One of the remaining 1/2-13 x3" hex bolt, two of the flat washers, and two of the hex nuts mount in the old stud hole on the axle bracket. Like this:


The lower rod end simple slides over the protruding threaded portion of the bolt, and is secured in place by the wing nut. Later I will drill a hole thru the bolt for a cotter pin, or a clevis pin to prevent the wing nut from backing off completely. The upper end mounts to the sway bar in the same fashion as the old links did, using the same hardware as the old bracket used.

Once its all fully installed it looks like this:



So far I'm very pleased with the results. I've been driving pretty much all week with the sway bar disconnected, as I was in the process of figuring out what I needed, acquiring all the necessary parts, and modifying what I already had. The difference is amazing, these preform just as good as the links I had on before, and are super quiet. No noisy clunks or rattles. I've "disco'd" them several times, and hooked 'em back up and they go on with ease.

I'm sure I could have cut corners, gone with cheaper hardware, gone with the less expensive non grease-able rod ends, but for less than 55 bucks... these seem to be one heck of a product. I'll figure some sort of hardware set-up to keep them out of the way while disco'd, but for now it'll probably be just zip ties or bungee cords.
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Unread 05-20-2011, 09:37 PM   #78
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Jeep looks good, how are those DuraTracs holding up? I'm looking to get a set for myself.
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Unread 05-31-2011, 12:56 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggn235 View Post
Jeep looks good, how are those DuraTracs holding up? I'm looking to get a set for myself.
GREAT! I really couldn't be happier. They've done amazing in the snow, performed surprisingly well in the mud, and held their own against everything else on the trail in the dirt, and i've never had to air them down to keep up with other rigs locked up with M/T's. They're quiet on the road, and very hard to break loose on wet cement. I've put a good 20k on them since I got them, and you can barely tell. They're wearing nice and even too. I would highly recommend them to anyone, and in fact, as soon as these wear out, i'll be stepping up to a set of 33's. I know i sound like a commercial, but there's no other tire i'll be running from here on out.
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
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Unread 07-02-2011, 06:51 PM   #80
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So there's been alot of activity on the build lately, I just haven't posted it up yet.
Scored some more parts on Craigslist, and bought some others brand new, and up until last weekend, I had just been stock piling parts.
Here's the list:
-6" TJ Front Coil Springs
-2" Greasable Lift Shackles
-Braided Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines
-Front Tow Hooks
-New Sway Bar Bushings
(Pics below)
__________________________________________________ _______________________________
These TJ springs were for a 6" lift, but being that the XJ front end is a bit heavier, I netted about 5 1/2" over stock after they were put in.


Here's one of the OEM shackles, and one of the new.... HUGE difference.

Getting the old ones out took ALOT of work.

But after going thru all that I did when putting in the new leafs when I did the first phase of the lift, I was prepared.
Big breaker bars, a ton of PB Blaster, and of course, some good ol heat!

I was able to salvage the old hardware, cleaned it real good with some oil, and a wire brush. The threads in the frame were good too, so I left those alone. A tip for anyone swapping out their shackles: THE BOLTS WILL SPIN, BUT SO WILL THE "SLEEVE" INSIDE THE BUSHING!!! Do yourself a favor, and get a set of needle nose vice grips, heat up the old bolt until the rubber starts to melt... clear it out a bit with an old flat head screw driver, and get those vice grips up onto that sleeve. Make sure you got a good bite on it too. Other wise, you'll be turning that bolt, thinking that you backing it out, when in fact all your doing is stripping the threads of the weld nut in the frame. GOOD LUCK!
Here's the new ones almost totally in.

And all in.

And as some of you know... once in, the exhaust has to be "modified" in order to clear. I had to hack off the tip, and re-secured the pipe to the hanger. I'll get a turn down tip to throw on here soon, but for now this works.
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
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Unread 07-02-2011, 07:35 PM   #81
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Dude, nice! Are you going to get to longer shocks for the new suspension? Where did you pick up your tow hooks at?
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Unread 07-02-2011, 08:12 PM   #82
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You know, I thought I was going to have to cut my tailpipe because of my shackles, but I got an exhaust system from Iron Rock Offroad. It works perfectly. However they managed to bend those tubes made it still come out fully, without making contact on the shackles.
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99 Sport, 3.5" RE front coils and Quadratech HD rear leafs with RE AAL, Rusty's shocks. RE HD ADJ Track Bar. RE Hack n Tap SYE. 32"Falken Mountain Peak AT's on 15x8 (4.5"bs) procomp rockcrawlers. YJ Front Brake Lines. 2.5" IRO catback with Magnaflow cat. C4x4 Tow Hooks. Rear Diff Guard. Warn Front Diff Guard and TC Skid. Yakima rack. Mega Warrior Safari Rack. Cobra CB. AJ's Rocker Guards. JCR Stage 1 rear bumper. JCR Stage 4 front bumper. ORE front steering box brace.
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Unread 07-02-2011, 09:27 PM   #83
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So right after I get done working on the Jeep, i'm on my way back from returning the spring compressor I rented, when all of the sudden, the Jeep just dies. All the electrical still worked, just wouldn't restart. I coasted into a parking lot, and poked around,... couldn't find the problem. Got towed back to the house, and started searching for probable causes. I did some testing, and discovered I had fuel, but no spark. Common symptom of a failed CPS (Crank Position Sensor) So I bit the bullet, and bought a Mopar CPS
(I read a lot of bad reviews, and good advice from some of the more knowledgeable Jeepers -like TJwalker- on here about going with "parts store brand" sensors) ...$125 later and I had myself a brand new CPS sensor to install:


For those of you who dont know, this part is a big pain in the A$$ to get to, having a lift, helps, and after doing some searches, i found that dropping the front diveline helps a lot too.


The CPS is located at about the 11-o-clock position on the backside of the bellhousing. With not a ton of room around it to work with.


Here's a good shot of the old one, fully saturated and soaking in PB Blaster:


Finally got the old one out:


Once you have the old one out, the pig tail routes up against the firewall, and the plug is behind the throttle body, towards the very back of the fuel rail.


Testing the two units with my multi-meter, I definitely got different results.



And the old one still had some decent magnetism left to it (note the wrench hanging from the end):


Putting the new one in:


And here we have the brand new Mopar Crank Position Sensor all installed:


After it was all hooked up I went to start the Jeep, ....only to find my problem wasn't fixed. ...so I turned to my trusty Factory Service Manual, and started going thru everything, I tested the coil, the plugs, the plug wires, even went thru my alarm thinking that maybe one of the cut off relays was leaving one of the ignition wires as an open circuit (i knew better, but still had to check)... finally I figured I'd test the the Cam Position Sensor, (located inside the distributor)... upon removing the cap I noticed something odd..... the rotor had grenaded itself into three pieces!!!!


....'can't believe I didnt check that first!!!! Its only about a year old, if that, so i just assumed it was ok....
Looks like the little plastic rivet thats supposed to hold the contact point on broke off or something, and it all just fell apart:



So Off I went back to the parts store, and picked up a new cap and rotor.


Put it all in, and of course... fired right up!
Oh well, at least the CPS is one less thing I have to worry about, and now I have a working spare, for on the trail, or if a fellow jeeper is in need.
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Unread 07-02-2011, 09:31 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCObray View Post
Dude, nice! Are you going to get to longer shocks for the new suspension? Where did you pick up your tow hooks at?
Yea, the new shocks are on the "to get soon" list... as is an adjustable track bar... (which is at the top of the list right now) ...even with the track bar relocation bracket I have on there now, the axle is shifted a good inch off center. I got the Tow Hooks from 4Wheel Parts, the store in Portland off of 82nd, ....I have a guy there that I've bought some stuff from before, and he takes good care of me, and anyone I send in there. Had to have them shipped form their warehouse in Cali, and still only cost me $70!!!
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
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Unread 07-02-2011, 09:34 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FISTFULL View Post
You know, I thought I was going to have to cut my tailpipe because of my shackles, but I got an exhaust system from Iron Rock Offroad. It works perfectly. However they managed to bend those tubes made it still come out fully, without making contact on the shackles.
Figures... I went with the DynoMax Cat-Back kit, .....guess you get what you pay for, although its fit and performance is great, I dont think they engineered it to work with much of the aftermarket suspension out there. Its all good, a turn down tip is like 5-8 bucks, and will clean up my "less than perfect" cut job.
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
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Unread 07-04-2011, 12:41 AM   #86
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Front Recovery - Tow Hooks

Well gettin things ready for the big run comin up. Top of the list was front recovery. Installed the Rugged Ridge Front Tow Hooks today. Went in super easy, and seem pretty damn solid too.


End Caps came of first:


Then the whole bumper:


The brackets lined right up.


I decided to go with some new hardware in the front, the stock "thread clip things" were falling apart and basically worthless.


Brackets go way back. Bolt through the frame with MASSIVE carriage bolts.


Everything went back together perfect.


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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
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Unread 07-04-2011, 01:08 AM   #87
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Ah i've been slacking with the C4x4 Tow Hooks over here. I'm thinking sometime soon I might have to stop by as well... maybe throw in a CB & Firestik too

Keep up the good work man! Isn't that Jolly Jeepers meet coming up here soon?
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Unread 07-04-2011, 01:20 AM   #88
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Taking full advantage of the storage under the rear seat. From top to bottom...
-Portable 12v air compressor (airs up a 33 from 5psi to 35psi in about 10min)
-Extra Spicer U-Joint
-Jumper Cables
-20' Tow Strap
-Tire Iron (might not be able to see it on this pic)



Also Took advantage of the rear storage cubby. Going to put a first aid kit in there too I think.


And threw on another rear recovery point.
(i'd trust the mount of the hitch before the mount of the rear bumper if I needed a good yank out of a hole)



Up next... The Rubicon Express Braided Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines,
And The Sway Bar Bushing Swap.



And The next top priority is going to be an adjustable track bar. My objective is to get all this on before the Jolly Jeeper's Run in a couple weeks. -WISH ME LUCK! -
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
My Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/f...-build-970888/
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Unread 07-04-2011, 04:03 PM   #89
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Decided I'd start in on rebuilding the donor driveshaft for the SYE install. (i'll prob start tackling that tomorrow)
Picked up one of these Ball Joint/U-Joint Service tool toady to make things easy.


And started in on replacing all the old U-joints with my new Spicer U-joints.


One down, 3 to go. I think while I have it all torn down, i'm going to clean it up and paint it though.
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
My Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/f...-build-970888/
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Unread 07-22-2011, 01:20 PM   #90
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Update

Well a TON of work has happened over the last several weeks, i've got a bunch of pictures to go thru and upload, and of course all the posts to write up. I'll try to get to it this weekend, and give you guys the full update.
Hang tight!... more to come....
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5" of lift, 33's. Armored, Lighted, Chipped, & Locked up Front. Soon to come: winch, gears, axle shafts, and more...
My Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/f...-build-970888/
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