Father-son cj5 build - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 24 Old 12-28-2015, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
braindamage
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Father-son cj5 build

I'm starting a new thread which is the build portion of my previous "should I do it" thread.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/should-i-do-3478498/

We are starting this morning. I bought a used 360 that we will be compression testing first thing. I got it for $500 and it included a 727 tranny. I figure if the engine doesn't test well then I can part it out and be money even.

It has an edelbrock carb, aluminum intake, Mallory electronic ignition. I got it from a guy who is building a sand racer and was putting in an ls9.

A friend of mine offered his heated shop with a car lifter and engine puller so we have a good workplace. It also means that there will be some urgency so we don't consume his shop all winter.

I know we'll need a new flywheel and maybe a pilot bushing. We will be evaluating other parts like the clutch, throw out bearing, etc. and will be posting pictures for opinions.

Are there other things I should replace prior to install?

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post #2 of 24 Old 12-28-2015, 10:40 AM
y2k-fxst
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Looking forward to your build. I always pull the pan and look at the main and rod bearings and cylinder walls. For the price of a pan gasket and some time it will tell you the real condition of the motor. Make sure you do not turn the motor upside down prior to removing the pan, otherwise anything in the pan will drop into your motor, such as sludge, bad valve seal, previously dropped nuts and bolt, etc. The PO made a good choice on the Edelbrock carb, basically it is a Carter AFB. Find someone familiar with it and have them set it up. Once running right you will never look at a Holley again! The carb and intake are worth your $500 investment!

I own a Harley and a JEEP, still some people can't figure out why I'm broke!
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post #3 of 24 Old 12-28-2015, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
braindamage
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So today we removed the fenders, grille, and radiator. We disconnected and labeled all wires and hoses. We removed the auto trans from the 360 but didn't take off the torque converter (we weren't sure how and were running out of time so we called it a day). We didn't compression test every cylinder (dead batt) but the ones we did were 155-160psi (so far so good).

Does anyone have a good machine shop to rebalance my flywheel? I am not sure whether I need to spend $199 or $50. The spread is too wide for me to understand what is the difference, and some show 2 pieces while others just show the gear wheel. Is the other one just a mount and if so can I just reuse the one from my 304?

Tomorrow I want to remove the 304. I need to inspect:
- my existing clutch. I think I need a replacement but I want to look at it before ordering a replacement
- throw-out bearing
- my pilot bushing for manual trans input shaft...not sure if I can reuse this or if I need to reorder one.
for the 360 I need to inspect:
- Oil pan for any debris/sludge/etc...
- cylinder walls and rod bearings (thanks y2k-fxst).


Lastly - What is this (see pic)?

I think It's an ignition control module from Standard Motor Products. I have a Mallory Hyfire ignition control on the 360 which appears to have replaced all the vacuum, but I'm not sure if it also does what this does or not.
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post #4 of 24 Old 12-28-2015, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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One other question...I'm doing some research on a clutch and a RhinoPac clutch for $130(ish) from partsgeek seems like a good deal. Does anyone have any experience with them?
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post #5 of 24 Old 12-28-2015, 08:29 PM
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No experience with Rhinopac. The general suggestions on these boards are to go with Luk brand. I have used those on my YJ with out any issue. I did upgrade my throwout bearing (aka clutch release bearing) since it had a plastic housing that some have seen fail (different application than yours though)

If you aren't in a hurry for parts, look on RockAuto.com. There are always 5% off coupons floating around on the internet if you search for them. For your application, a Luk clutch kit is $90. Their shipping fees are offset by their better prices overall if you plan ahead and place a decent order. You also have the ability to choose higher end brands if you'd like.

Def change the pilot bearing. Imagine driving 50 miles and having an issue with a $5 part and having to drop the transmission again. No fun. Also, with the pilot bearing make sure the OD is the same between the 360 and 304 or you'll need to get an adapter bearing.

Secondly...yes...that is an Ignition Control Module.

Current Jeeps (Click to see build threads):
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post #6 of 24 Old 12-29-2015, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
braindamage
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I found the Luk clutch you were talking about. I also looked on the Luk website and they list a different clutch fora 360 vs. a 304 (11" vs 10 3/8"). Which would I order? Also, there's no mention of whether it's a diaphram or lever style.
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post #7 of 24 Old 12-29-2015, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braindamage View Post
I found the Luk clutch you were talking about. I also looked on the Luk website and they list a different clutch fora 360 vs. a 304 (11" vs 10 3/8"). Which would I order? Also, there's no mention of whether it's a diaphram or lever style.
You quickly moved out of my realm of knowledge now. I'm not familiar with the V8s and trans in the older Jeeps. I'm sure someone has done this before and can help you better than I.

If this is a common swap for the CJs, posting in that subforum might net you some quick responses. Those guys are pretty knowledgeable about this sort of thing.

Current Jeeps (Click to see build threads):
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post #8 of 24 Old 12-29-2015, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
braindamage
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We removed the 304 today. I have a couple of pics below. Removing the bolts holding the engine to the bell housing was an adventure. I don't know how you are supposed to do it, but we connected together about 4 socket extensions and I removed the upper bolts from behind the skid plate. I should've taken a picture. If anyone has suggestions on how to install them I would appreciate it. I'm not sure I can install bolts that way!

The clutch is toast, but the pressure plate looks good. Just so I don't have to remove everything again. I ordered an 11" clutch, Luk 01-025 and an Exedy flywheel from RockAuto.

We ran out of time to do any more inspections on the 360. Maybe tomorrow.

On another note, while the jeep was on the rack and since the rear driveshaft was disconnected I spun the input to the rear differential. It spun easily and there was NO tire rotation, so tomorrow we will remove the plate and see what we have. I'm not sure what differential I have or what gearing is in there. If there are suggestions on how to easily identify these I'd appreciate it. I'm pretty sure the PO had to rebuild the rear end at least once and he was a rock crawler in Colorado so I have no idea what gearing is in there.
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post #9 of 24 Old 12-30-2015, 12:27 AM
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I'm glad to see from the other thread you've decided to take this rebuild on. I started out 3 years ago with a $2250 Cj7 with a 327 and th350. It was essentially junk and aprox. 5 grand later I'm going original with the I6 and T150 trans. These Jeeps are a great way to teach your son to wrench. Money isn't the reason we're all "enthusiasts" here. The Jeep community may be one of the most united and helpful peoples out there. So far so good considering how you were worried a month ago huh?

Ps, my wife calls my CJ my other girlfriend, so maybe yours was just jealous and that's why your wife wanted you to sell them? haha
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post #10 of 24 Old 12-30-2015, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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rear differential is fine, no broken/worn gears and no sign of metal debris...gotta be something else.
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post #11 of 24 Old 12-30-2015, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Hey tyrophene. I also have a Malibu ski boat that my family refers to as my "mistress" so my wife maybe was just trying to keep me from building a concubine!! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
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post #12 of 24 Old 12-30-2015, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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So I'm the victim of the two piece axle of the AMC20. The nut on passenger side sheared the pin, the entire assembly was loose, and the yoke wore several grooves around the shaft. This explains why I could turn the differential input with no wheel movement. The driver side axle has about 1/8" in/out play so I think I need to replace both.

Any suggestions on brands to buy as replacements?

This one seems like a reasonable deal at about $280ish:
Omix-Ada 16530.20 One Piece Axle Conversion Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Secondly, while researching what was wrong, I also see that the clutch linkage is a weak point. While I have the whole thing apart is this a good upgrade? ie...worth the cost...

Rugged Ridge 16919.30 Clutch Link Kit
http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-1...clutch+linkage
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post #13 of 24 Old 12-31-2015, 07:16 PM
jeepster36085
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For the price I would look into a higher quality one piece axle such as Moser or superior. I have no experience with the omix axles but have had the same Moser's in my '85 with a built 360 for over 10 years now with no problems other than a broken locker due to bent housing.
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post #14 of 24 Old 01-04-2016, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
braindamage
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Good news!! I think if we get after it this weekend we will hopefully have a running jeep by the time the Packers play on Sunday!! We ordered the following parts:

Wiring adapter and extension for msd arrived today
Clutch, flywheel, axle shaft kit, hub puller, front differential gasket, and manual trans pilot bushing are all shipped and will arrive between tomorrow and Thursday.

We need to remove drivers rear axle, install 360, rewire for msd, and change oil in engine, diff's, trx case, and tranny.

I'm sure We will need more advice from my helpers on this site. We really appreciate everyone's help so far!
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post #15 of 24 Old 01-08-2016, 07:29 PM
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Subbed. Looking good.
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