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Unread 12-18-2013, 05:50 PM   #1
Eshindi
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 589
WJ Build on 35s

Name is Eshindi.
Been a member here for a while. Loved Jeeps since before I was able to drive.

Jeep WJ 99, I6 with Claytons long arm. 4.5 Springs with KOR BB, Soon to be only 6.5 springs, HP44 & F9", spinning 35" Rubbers with 4.56 teeth.

Daily Driver: '09 Honda Fit-Love this car, I was able to fit both axles in the back when I took them to get re-geared.

Current Status- Rolling Around on the Weekends.


Got my jeep a long while back, but once it was paid in full it was lifted.


Stayed with KOR BB and 31's for a while. I added front Up Country Springs as well to level out the front.



Started to invest in armor.






Need recovery. Lifted Rear Hitch and front OEM hooks.



Then i got claytons.



Out with the sh*t

New with the new


Took about a week for my friend and I just get it done.



My daily driver during the build


Finished with 31's at about 6"






Stuck at the beach. Big F-150 was scared to pull me out, So a dude in an old YJ came over and was super exicted to pull me out with the winch he installed that morning. Thank you random jeep person sir.


I will post more soon.

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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten)
Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's\

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Unread 12-29-2013, 12:38 PM   #2
Eshindi
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 589
I got cheap a moded my own parts from the BB lift.
I took my JKS sway links, cut them in half and extended them with a pipe.


Did a TRE flip. This caused some serious bump steer and DW

The next week i bought a trac bar mount for an XJ and made it fit.


More Armor. Simple piece of metal mounted on the cross member and i bolted in a second one that bolted into the Claytons rail stiffeners.




Then I went stupid and bought 35s, Got them for like $220 shipped each the next day they went up to $260. I guess they forgot to mark them up or something. I mounted one by hand and then gave up. Dont try and mount 4 35" tires on rims get it done by a garage.



Then I got lucky and scored a pair of axles went from NY to Connecticut.
They were from a 79 Ford F-150. Open front a rear with 4.10s.
Rear is a Ford 9" Big Bearing with Drum Brakes.

Front is a Dana 44 HP with Disc Brakes and locking Hubs

Even thou it was rusty and both my parents freaked out when i shelled out a cool $300 for the pair the locking hubs were the only things workings.

The wedges from the F-150 Control Arm were welded on and pretty simple to cut off.


Then the story of my Jeep life really began.
Every weekend for like 2 months i cut, cleaned and prepped the axles.




Went with mostly clayton brackets, I made the front Pass Upper mount by hand. The truss was made by a friend that only works on axles.

Although it was simple i did make that one bracket by hand.


The rear was all Clayton brackets.




Had to convert drum to disk. The Kit was only the brackets and Disc Brake.
But I got lucky and scored some re-furb calipers from a Caddy Eldorado with E brake.







The stupid thing i didnt do was check the inside the axles. The Gears in side shat themselves, redid every bearing inside and went with 4.56
In this pic I dont know if you can tell but the teeth were actually pitted from rust and there were a few roller bearings moving around.
On the rear axles once i took the yoke off which had to be replaced ( yoke was scratched up bad just past the seal) I was able to move the pinion gear like a stick shifter.
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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten)
Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's\

My Build Log
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:03 PM   #3
Eshindi
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 589
Ths June the Dana Turdy come out. That is a pinched weiner there in the background. Mini Dauschund and mini pincher.


Trying to get it centered, because I was unable to weld the spring buckets exactly were they needed to go because of the pumpkin being more offset then the WJ i had to compensate about 1/2 inch.


Had to tweek the Pass upper to fit. I had a friend weld in the upper brackets and Truss at his shop and instead of taking it back i cut the pass upper CA and rewelded it at the new angle to get it to fit center at ride height. used a cardboard as a mock up.




Steering was tricky and amazingly easy. The Tie Rod was custom made with the normal one ton TREs but the drag link was all original and just happen to fit. Just had to twist the lower TRE into the connection hole on the Tie rod's TRE.


So the Drag Link is original Parts and the Tie Rod is the standard One Ton TRE and pipe that most companies sell. All TRE are Moog.



No pics but F9" hit the gas tank. When i mocked it up in the rear.
Since now I had A ton of spear parts i traded my old 31s for a new tank and skid plate. When empty and with the light on I could only fill up about 16 gallons in my Jeep Tank. (CHECK its suppose to fill like 21 gallons).

I could push my finger through the rust.


Here is the new tank skid already cut and being mocked up for welding.

Had an other friend Tig weld it for me.


Few things missing. Once again my parents freaked out when they came out and saw a Giant Hole in my jeep.

Filler Neck was so rusted it bent apart when i took it out

Two things here about doing the task tank tuck. Always put in a tube in the frame. WJ is a UniBody and any hole in the boxed part of the frame will weaken it. Dont care what anyone says. So I got a piece of conduit and made it more oval to fit longer ways with the hole in the frame. Second was since the tank was higher sharp angles cause a backup when filling (TJs sometimes have this issue) I straighted out the filler tube and shortened it so that the rubber tube is more slopped and less at an angle.


That was the best slope I could get without cutting the body up.

Now with the tank in i was able to mock up everything and start finishing up.

Cant Find a pick but the tube was welded to the frame.

So now this pretty axle is ready for installation. I made that axle stand from an old server rack. The stand is FREE for pick up only on Long Island New York. If your interested in picking it up PM me.


With the Tank Lifted about 4 inches and pushed back about two inches the rear Now Fits.


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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten)
Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's\

My Build Log
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Unread 12-29-2013, 01:18 PM   #4
Eshindi
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 589
Here are some pics of the rear Installed.


The rear drive shaft had to be shorted because the ford 9" is a third member I guess the gears are more forward.



Finished the Front up with a Steering Stabilizer. Planning on later on putting in Ram assist. So that ugly piece of metal to the left of the trac bar will be widely used.
That mount on the Steering Stab. is actually a BPE mount for a shock by Iron Rock.



Welded in most of the old tire tube back in. Then I sealed it shut with 3M Fire barrier.

Made a trap door so that I can get to the filler tubes if the tank ever has to come down.


Hulk Smash !!!



I had to cut back and re-weld my sliders.


Here she sits after about 9 months on blocks. Charged that battery and carried some gasonlina over to her and got her started.


Heres a vid of the very first time driving it with the new axles and tires.
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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten)
Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's\

My Build Log
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Unread 01-05-2014, 08:28 AM   #5
wvracer821
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morgantown, West Virginia
Posts: 975
Looks good man. im working on doing a 9/D44 swap too. keep up the good work and the pics coming
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Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...build-1436556/
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Unread 01-07-2014, 08:56 AM   #6
RollMeOver_WJ
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Location: Lehighton, Pennsylvania
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Sub

Subscribed! Keep up the good work!
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Unread 01-07-2014, 05:11 PM   #7
Eshindi
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 589
The jeep has been drivable I had brake issues soon after getting the jeep moving. I used rear calipers from an old caddy that had some sort of ratcheting caliper that requires an e-brake cable to put tension on the caliper, or something like that.
Member Olese was nice enough to share this link about adjusting the rear calipers. http://classicbroncos.com/reardiscs.shtml

So I bought E-brake cables for a '79 F150 and had a machinist shorten the inside cable to make it fit right, but the ends snapped right into the Jeep body and Caddy calipers.


After getting the E-brake in the brakes got a lot better. But I still have to pump once before they really work. I did bypass the ABS unit had have straight pipes from the Master Cylinder to the calipers.
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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten)
Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's\

My Build Log
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Unread 02-05-2014, 11:54 PM   #8
MEinSoCal
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1999 WJ 
 
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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so the rear clayton truss/upper control arm mount was hitting? is it because its too high? i was planning on using that same truss on a rear JK D44, but now i'm concerned. for now, i'd prefer now to do a fuel tank lift and tuck.
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Meh...
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Unread 02-06-2014, 07:58 AM   #9
lfopps
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Location: Sayreville NJ, NJ
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was never a fan of wj's but i'm liking this alot.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 09:01 PM   #10
Eshindi
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 589
Quote:
Originally Posted by MEinSoCal View Post
so the rear clayton truss/upper control arm mount was hitting? is it because its too high? i was planning on using that same truss on a rear JK D44, but now i'm concerned. for now, i'd prefer now to do a fuel tank lift and tuck.
I'm not sure how to explain what really happened since I didnt take any pics of the truss hitting the gas tank. I needed a new gas tank anyway so it gave me an excuse to do the tank lift. I also could have "shaved" the top rear of the truss at an angle and cover it up with a thick piece of metal so that the rear of the truss clears the gas tank.
Every build is different so its hard to say really. Besides i really like having the gas tank lifted because it looks much better, your less likely to smash it and the rear of your jeep doesnt look like it has a saggy diaper.
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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten)
Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's\

My Build Log
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Unread 02-06-2014, 10:16 PM   #11
zerocool1
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awesome work
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Unread 02-07-2014, 08:45 AM   #12
wvracer821
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Location: Morgantown, West Virginia
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where did you source that rear drive shaft from?
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Unread 02-07-2014, 05:32 PM   #13
Eshindi
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 589
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
where did you source that rear drive shaft from?
The rear drive shaft and SYE were both from Tom Woods.
I painted the swirls.
But then i had to shorten the rear drive shaft with the Ford 9" and I had a local guy do that for me instead of sending it back to tom woods and pay for all that shipping.
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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten)
Claytons LA | 6.5" | HP D44 | F9" | 35's\

My Build Log
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Unread 02-08-2014, 02:22 PM   #14
wvracer821
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ive been looking for a front drive shaft from somthing in the junk yard that i can use for a rear. but adams driveshafts seem to be the best value that i can find
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Unread 02-08-2014, 02:39 PM   #15
Kdeome
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6 inches and 35s are the sweet spot for a WJ IMO. Looks sweet!
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