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Unread 05-04-2014, 02:40 AM   #1
PostaljeepSS
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1974 DJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Boise
Posts: 106
DJ5C Track Jeep/Resto-mod

Good evening folks. It's taken 8 years but I have finally gotten to a point where I can put some time and money back into my DJ5C project.

Background: The 1974 DJ5C Jeep started as my daily driver in highschool. It was completely stock except for some nice stainless hood latches my dad had gotten me. During my junior yeah of highschool I started to get into American muscle V8s and hot rodding. My best friend at the time got me into drag racing and convinced me to join the school bracket drag racing team. I raced with the factory 232 for 2 seasons clocking a record 22.43 second 1/4 mile @66mph on my best day . It didn't take long to want more...

The same friend and his dad had CJ2As with small block Chevy's so I knew a swap could be done. Working part time in highschool my budget was limited. The total time to do the swap was 6 weeks building the engine and about a week putting it in while working after school and on weekends. The complete 350ci engine was pulled from a 77 Chevy pickup for $300. The original plan was to just replace gaskets and clean it up then drop it in. During the teardown I found that I had lucked out and gotten a 4bolt main block! This got me thinking more performance oriented and settled on a 383 stroker combination because why not?

Engine:
The crank is an externallly balanced Eagle cast steel part, I kept the stock length 350 rods but replaced the bolts with ARP parts, new Keith black 9.8:1 pistons and molly rings, bored .30 over. I didn't touch the stock 76CC heads aside from cleaning and paint. Comp Cams...I don't remember the model, sorry, it's .454 lift on the intake and exhaust. Edelbrock performer dual plane intake with Edelbrock 750CFM 4BBL carb. Ignition is an Accel HEI with stock curve and 8MM wires with champion plugs. Jegs aluminum short water pump and 1 wire alternator. External balancer and flexplate. Hooker block hugger headers with 2.5" glass pack dual exhaust with side exit.

Radiator is the factory DJ5C size but cleaned and re-cored with a 2100CFM electric fan. The heater core is hooked up and working as well for emergency cooling but I've never needed it. Brakes are factory manual 4 wheel 11" drums but hoping to upgrade to power brakes very soon. The transmission was sourced on craigslist for $150 from a rebuilder who had built it for another drag track car. The guy never paid up and the rebuilder had to move so he just wanted to get rid of it. I just had to get a torque converter and pan for it. Both are stock replacement parts from FLAPS. Transmission mount is just slightly modified from the factory jeep member to move the mounting holes about 3 inches forward with a Lakewood bushing.

Per NHRA rules I had to extend the wheel base 9 inches to ~90 inches since it no longer has the factory engine. I moved the stock Dana 44 back which required relocating the gas tank. I installed a 10 gallon fuel cell in a locking metal tank in the back. All new aluminum fuel and transmission cooler lines but I still need to get them mounted a bit more solidly than zip ties . The tires were just whatever monthly special Les Schwab was running P185/75R14.

I ran this setup for 2 seasons and got it tuned in to my best run of 12.86@108mph with the pipes off . At this point life hit me pretty good and the project had to sit for the last 8 years. Uncle Sam was generous this year and I got some big debt knocked out so I finally have time and small funds to get it back into shape along with my 2A. Coming plans include upgrade to power brakes, shocks on all corners, new heads, relocate battery to the back, body off sand blast, metal repair and repaint, and maybe a speedometer .

engine.jpg   leftfront.jpg   rightfront.jpg   driverside.jpg   driverseat.jpg  

rightrear.jpg   tank.jpg  
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Unread 05-04-2014, 09:11 PM   #2
PostaljeepSS
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The weather was nice today so I dove into the carb a bit. I didn't get a chance to clean it really well before I put it back into service but I remedied that today. The idle was much rougher than it used to be before I parked it. The last time I drove it before I parked it I was having a fuel starvation problem and couldn't maintain over 35-40MPH without sputtering out. I removed the jets, rods, floats etc and gave everything a good scrub. I sprayed carb cleaner and compressed air through all the passages and replaced all the gaskets. I replaced the old Edelbrock fuel pump with a Summit brand mechanical unit. With everything buttoned up I ran some errands and tried to find some shocks that might work on the rear axle. The fuel starvation issue seems to be resolved and WOT is much improved now. Off idle still has some hesitation and missing though. The jets are marred up from the screwdriver too much to read the model so I'll have to order a couple sets above and below the stock size and play with that. I don't have an exhaust gas analyzer handy to know for sure so that will be trial and error affair . I hope to get out to the track next week where I can dial it in.

I also noticed the idle and throttle response getting worse as it warmed up. There is no choke on it so that shouldn't be the problem. I checked the carb temperature after going around the block and it was VERY hot. The gas inside the bowls was audibly boiling. I made a trip to the FLAPS and picked up a 1/4" heat insulating gasket for the carb and swapped it there in the lot. The improvement was immediate. The idle is a bit more stable, less missing, and WOT felt better as well though that could entirely be placebo talking . On the way home I found an empty road and tested hole shots which revealed a new problem. I am getting pretty bad axle wrap/hop. Hopefully I can source some 15" steel rims this week and get some wider rubber for them and some shocks on the rear.
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Unread 05-06-2014, 10:45 PM   #3
PostaljeepSS
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Got the rear shocks in today. Nothing too special.

With the axle moved back 9 inches the shock mounts are almost perfectly aligned vertically. There's about 1/16" of clearance between the shock tube and axle tube. Yes it's a greasy mess.

Mounted with all new hardware.

The ride quality is much improved and it helped a bit with the wheel hop but didn't completely solve it. I wasn't really expecting it to but would have been nice . I think traction bars are in its' future.
Also found this while under there. It wasn't there yesterday.

Nice clean spot on the top of the pumpkin where it hit too... Gonna have to build some bump stops before it does some serious damage.

Took a break from the postal to work on the willy's fuel system after sitting all winter. Took it around the block for the first time this year.
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Unread 05-07-2014, 09:40 PM   #4
PostaljeepSS
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Didn't get a chance to go by the tire shop today but I did manage to fix the sender for the fuel gauge. I bought the gauge and sender brand new when I got the fuel cell. It worked the first day I installed then dropped to nothing. I was worried the float had gunked up or I got a bad unit. Removal is pretty easy. 5 small nuts, 2 wires, cut the sealant and out it comes.

You can see the float at the top and a small tab at the bottom to keep it from coming out. I found this tiny magnet stuck to wall of the circuit board. I bet it has something to do with this...

The float wasn't sliding smoothly at all. I gently tapped it loose but the gauge still wouldn't budge. Notice the slit in the float?

I figured the magnet must be inserted in that slot and the circuit board picks it up. Apparently the press fit was bad or being dry for years shrunk it up. Whatever the case it had to go back in. Unfortunately the tab at the bottom made it impossible to get it back in right so I had to remove the float. I had to gently bend back the tab holding it in with pliers.

It's difficult to see in this picture but there is a tiny metal tab in the groove on the float. The magnet fits up against it and is apparently supposed to just stick? I didn't see any kind of attempt at gluing it in from the factory.

I don't have any gas proof adhesive handy so I had to come up with something else light as to not affect the float. I used the tiny wire from a twist tie (yes the kind for bread bags) and wrapped the magnet into place.


I used a hacksaw blade to cut a VERY shallow groove around the outside of the float for the wire to sit in without rubbing against the housing and jamming it up. Using some tiny pliers I was able to make relatively clean bends and pull the wires taught then press the ends into the foam.

Now it was just a matter of putting it back together and and re-installing. With everything hooked back up I tilted the sender back and forth to verify it was working before I put it in and...SUCCESS. I finished just as the sun went down and fired it up.

Yeah it's still low but that is roughly the amount of gas in it now. The sender does not go all the way to the bottom of the cell so the float at it's lowest point is still about 5 inches from the bottom of the cell which probably works out to 1.5-1.75 gallons left. Before the gauge just sat at the needle. I took it up the road to put a few gallons in and sure enough, it is actually working. Now for rims and tires...
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Unread 05-08-2014, 11:34 PM   #5
PostaljeepSS
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Managed to stop by the tire shop and get rims and tires for the rear. We managed to "Stuff" 205/70R15s on there with new rims. Anything wider would require rims with LOTS of negative offset which they didn't have in stock and there weren't any wider options than 185 for the old 14" rims. By happy coincidence they happen to be the same rims on the Willys. It will have a slightly aggressive rake to it until I can afford to replace the fronts. Or maybe just leave em...

On the way home I could feel some rubbing somewhere at the rear. Once I got home I checked in the wheel wells and sure enough.

That is the metal frame for the old charcoal evaporation canister. The tire caught the bottom and bent it out a bit. I don't actually use or need this system anymore so out it comes. On the other side the old fuel fill cap that went no where after installing the fuel cell was rubbing on the tire. I had to remove that assembly as well. No big deal as I wasn't using it anyway.

I also had a clearance issue with the bottom rail on the doors rubbing against the tires with the doors open. It's not the best picture but you can see the rail just digging into the tire. Gonna need to put a stop to that.

luckily there is enough play in the mounting slots to move the bottom rail back just a bit. After breaking the rusted screws loose I just slid it back as far as it would go and screwed it back down. I now have ~1/8" clearance between the tire and door rail.

The skies opened right about that time so I started to clean up and take everything back to the garage. In the garage I ran across a spare mirror that fit quite well on the left arm. Someone had walked into the original mirror years ago and broke it off. I just never bothered to fix it. Today I remedied that in the rain.

Still lots left to get done before test 'n tune Saturday. Tomorrow's plan is battery tie downs (doesn't have one), neutral safety switch (doesn't have one), and radiator overflow can (doesn't have one), and front shocks.
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Unread 05-09-2014, 11:55 PM   #6
PostaljeepSS
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It took most the rest of the day but I got the front shocks on, the battery tie down installed, the radiator overflow installed, re-ran the fuel gauge sending wires so they didn't go under the driver's seat, and installed a new inline fuel pressure gauge. I will still have to tackle the neutral safety switch tomorrow. I'll probably have to do it at the track in line during tech inspection .




Gotta start early tomorrow. Gates open at 9 IIRC and I still have to find my helmet...
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Unread 05-10-2014, 03:38 PM   #7
PostaljeepSS
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Well today was a bust. I was informed by the tech inspection official at the track that the SNELL rating on my helmet is no longer valid. Mine was SNELL 2000 and they require SNELL 2005 or better. I blew the last of my budget getting everything else ready for today so there's no way I can afford a helmet today. Everything else passed inspection though which is a relief. Guess it's time to start saving.
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Unread 05-13-2014, 08:44 PM   #8
PostaljeepSS
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Still broke until the 20th so I took care of some free cosmetic things today. First off is the cow fabric interior with blue fuzzy dice. Like a lot of things it seemed like a good idea in highschool but those days have passed.

The only thing holding the rear section up is the vent surround. Removing it is a 2 person job. It is nearly impossible to reach the screws in the top and back the nut from the inside unless you have 5 foot arms.


With the surround removed.

and the panel removed.


Now for the front. The front section is held in by the dome light assembly. After removing 2 nuts and disconnecting the wires it comes out as well.


Both panels removed and the vent surround back on. I haven't decided if I want to put a fabric on or paint the ceiling.


That brings us to the damn FAA stickers on the bumpers. Again, seemed like a good idea at the time after a job fair in highschool but I have grown to regret it. Today we fix it.


Say hello to my little friend.


They came off more easily than I was expecting. The paint came off in a few places but it's falling off everywhere else too so I'll deal with it when I do the rest. Both bumpers took 40 minutes or so of scraping. Here we are all cleaned up.



That's about all I could get done today before the sun started going down. The weather is starting to get warm tomorrow so we'll see how the cooling system holds up.
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Unread 05-15-2014, 06:52 PM   #9
PostaljeepSS
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Cooling system seems to be holding up fine so far. I will need to get a thermostat for the electric fan eventually but I have bigger things to solve first. I started having a fuel starvation problem the last few days to the point where I had to pull over today and let traffic pass several times in a 30mph zone. The fuel pump and lines are brand new so that shouldn't be the problem. I took the top off the carb and the jets and bowls looked clean enough. I took the floats and valves out to check if they were getting stuck. The filter and valve closest to the fuel inlet looks great. I then checked the one furthest from the inlet and found this.


You can barely see the mesh filter in the middle there. It was so gunked in that the fill valve fitting came out without the filter. I got that out and started scraping the crap out.


This is less than half the crap that came out. Bits of plastic (presumably from the fuel cell since there is nothing else plastic on the fuel line), chunks of RTV, some metal shavings, and misc. crap.


Put it all back together and wouldn't you know. No more fuel starvation issues. Time to get some better fuel filters me thinks.
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Unread 03-26-2015, 10:33 PM   #10
PostaljeepSS
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Spring is finally here, and with it, a modest tax return. It's time to get going again. Not much happened over the winter. I replaced almost all the transmission seals/gaskets and added some fuel line clamps along the rail, that's about it. It had to sit most the winter but started up without too much hassle. The goal this year is to get some safety and convenience concerns fixed. This includes engine cooling, heater, headlights, wipers, and possibly some brake work. The postman was nice enough to drop off some new parts the other day to get things started.

One new Summit aluminum radiator, one 16" puller fan, one electric fan thermoswitch, one set of universal radiator mounting brackets, and one shiny new Racequip helmet.


I won't have time to get the radiator in before the test 'n tune at Firebird Saturday but in the next week or two I want to get that done. The helmet will get put to use though Saturday .
I did manage to get it in today for some new meats up front.
OLD

NEW

No more aggressive stance but it is much more stable around turns and takes bumps a bit better. Plus it actually matches for a change. I also replaced a busted side door mirror.

Assuming nothing surprising happens at tech inspection I'll have some ET slips some time Saturday then next week get going on the radiator swap.
__________________
74 DJ5C - 383 SBC, TH350, D44
46 CJ2A - Dauntless 6, T90, D18
88 XJ - Stock as it gets
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Unread 05-11-2015, 12:00 AM   #11
PostaljeepSS
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There was a slight change of plans when I figured out I had the test 'n tune day wrong. It was on Sunday, not Saturday. So I figured I could get the radiator swap done in time for the test 'n tune since I would have an extra day.

I started by ripping out the front grille and radiator.


The old stock DJ radiator. It did what it could, because it had to.


I had to do some cutting on the angle brace to clear the side tanks. Nothing mounts through the lower hole so I tried to blend the cut into the curve of the hole.

You can see the cuts on the bottom edges.


I fitted up a bracket to provide some welding surface for the lower radiator brackets and as a mount for the transmission cooler.


Brackets welded in and foam padding for the radiator to rest against.


The rough fit with the side brackets in.



The side brackets bolt in through the side of the factory radiator mount. You can see the mounting hole just the headlight.


Then I had an issue with the radiator cap not clearing the grille.




Some gentle massaging with a grinder got me a cut out curve similar to the factory one to the right so can I get the cap off.


The fan set up was dead simple. Two strips of aluminum metal screwed through the top and bottom sheet aluminum tabs of the radiator. The fan was metal screwed to the strips. The screwed were a bit too long so I ground the ends off them after that were in.



I had to move the transmission cooler lines a bit more forward have them in from the side as the thicker radiator didn't leave space to bring it from underneath between the grille and radiator.

And the cooler mounted to the cross brace.


The radiator in.

Tight fit with the fan but it worked.


I was able to reuse my upper flex line and just cut the lower radiator hose shorter.



I never though to check before but apparently the front grille had no body bushings between it and the frame. Fantastic! I picked up some CJ5 bushings and slipped them in the front. I'll get the rest of them some other time.

During the final assembly I managed to poke a hole in one of the tubes of the brand new radiator with the drill. After I finally calmed myself down I managed to get a good to buddy to come by with JB Weld and we sealed it up. No pics of the repair, sorry. At this point it's about midnight Saturday and I'm racing to get everything finished up by 10AM Sunday. Another hour of final wiring hookups and it was time to crash.

Fast forward 6 hours and I drug myself out of bed and headed to the track. Tech inspection went fine, picked up my number, and got in line. Here was my first run of the day.
http://www.facebook.com/michael.watk...type=2&theater
I was getting so pretty bad fuel starvation again about 1/8th mile down the track. At the 1/8th mile I was doing 68mph and by the 1/4 I was going 73mph and ran a 16.1. Not a great start... Back in the pits I pulled the carb top off again and checked behind the seat filters. Sure enough there was a bunch more gunk in there! I cleaned em out and on my next pass it was definitely better but still felt anemic. It ran a 15.1@83mph. I went back to the pit and dialed the timing up a notch and made my last pass of the day. 14.8@90. So an overall improvement on the start of the day but still far from it used to be capable of.

Unfortunately on my last pass the fan mounting straps flexed just enough to interfere with the electric fan blades and kablooey!
__________________
74 DJ5C - 383 SBC, TH350, D44
46 CJ2A - Dauntless 6, T90, D18
88 XJ - Stock as it gets
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Unread 05-11-2015, 12:01 AM   #12
PostaljeepSS
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Posts: 106
I had to hobble home with home with no electric cooling fan. Luckily enough the traffic wasn't too bad for the 40 min drive. The new radiator did keep it in the safe temperature zone. I ordered a new electric fan and picked up some aluminum channel and sheet steel to build a basic fan shroud and hopefully be a bit more robust than the aluminum straps. The fan is offset as vertically as possible to keep the deepest part of the electric motor as far away from the waterpump as possible. The tabs around the edge of the opening are drilled through so the fan can be held on with machine screws. The fan is sealed to the sheet steal with aluminum tape.



Some 1/2" aluminum channel gives it some space to act as a shroud. I could probably get away with some 3/4" channel down the road if I wanted to. Three machine screws across the top and bottom hold it on.



I also added a thermostat and automatic fan relay. It's a generic unit from Derale. I have a switch on the dash hooked up to the A/C overide so I can manually run it too.

The electric fan kicks on around 190 and it drops to the 175-180 range. It idled in the driveway for 30 min no problem.

From there I used it on and off as a commuter, fixing a few leaks for last couple weeks and collecting parts for the power brake swap. Yesterday I got the fire under my *** to get it done. I sourced the booster and swing pedal from an 80s cherokee at the junkyard. I re-used the existing master cylinder as it's almost brand new. The Master cylinder bolts are just barely spaced enough to to fit the stock DJ/CJ5 master cylinder.

Problem #1 is the battery is in the way of where the swing pedal and booster assembly needs to go.

Battery out and tray out. You can see the master cylinder down there in its little cage.

Master cylinder removed.


With everything out of the way it's time to measure and mark the opening. Four holes for the bolts and one for the push rod.

Booster mounted.


I had to make an adapter plate because the DJ master cylinder didn't cover the entire opening of the booster. You can see the gap at the top of the master cylinder.

Lucky I still had some scrap steel plate left over from the fan shroud project. I made a template, marked and cut with the jigsaw.

All mounted up and plumbed.

The plate and some RTV to make sure it's sealed. It's a messy proof of concept right now. Once everything is finalized I'll pull it out, paint it all, and seal it properly sans mess.

I ran the lines down to the stock location and into the stock proportioning valve.


Now I had to deal with the brake swing arm hitting the throttle linkage. I picked up a muffler U-bolt for a couple bucks and went to town.


I measured the clearance to the firewall and gave myself an extra 3/4" then cut the U-bolt to length and mocked it up.


Some quick welds.


Some judicious use of the cut-off wheel.


Dat fit.



I had to move the fuse boxes to fit around the swing pedal assembly.


Now to test the system. I don't have the cables yet to move the battery to the left rear like I want yet so I stuck it on the front bumper and ran the cables underneath the grille to it. A bit mad maxish. You can see them going under the bottom right side of the grille.



After bleeding the brakes and warming it up I happy to report the brakes work extremely well. Too well in fact. They engage very quickly and strongly. I can easily hold it in place in gear with one finger. I might have to find some sort of vacuum proportioning valve or figure out a way to make it a bit more progressive. They do work great as long as you're gentle with them. They lock REAL easy now.

Well I think that's the updates to today. See you next time when I try to get the wipers going...
__________________
74 DJ5C - 383 SBC, TH350, D44
46 CJ2A - Dauntless 6, T90, D18
88 XJ - Stock as it gets
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Unread 05-12-2015, 10:14 PM   #13
PostaljeepSS
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Boise
Posts: 106
Small update today. I had some left over parts I returned and picked up a see through fuel filter and a pressure regulator. I'm hoping this will help with the rich idle and catch some more gunk. I've read across several forums that the edelbrocks don't like more than 5lbs fuel pressure and the pressure directly from the pump is around 8lbs. After managing to install it backward the first time I got it dialed in around 4-4.5lbs. I was able to lean out the idle mixture a bit and drop the idle speed a bit. It still smells rich but not as eye-stingingly bad. I'll look into some springs for the primaries in case they are a bit too strong.
__________________
74 DJ5C - 383 SBC, TH350, D44
46 CJ2A - Dauntless 6, T90, D18
88 XJ - Stock as it gets
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Unread 05-18-2015, 12:17 AM   #14
PostaljeepSS
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Boise
Posts: 106
It's been an interesting couple of days. Friday the Cherokee decided to throw the serpentine belt and wrap it around the clutch fan so I had to hobble back home and take the DJ instead. I hadn't had time yet to get the battery moved so I had to leave the battery up front Mad Max style for the commute. Of course it was also raining so I had to rig up a "custom" battery cover to keep the rain off.
Grocery bag to the rescue.

Aside from the still touchy brakes it was actually well behaved. I picked up the parts I needed for the battery relocation on the way home.

I got the battery relocated to directly over the left rear tire, ran new main power feed, picked up an extra ground cable, added the c-clips for the brake swing pedal, fixed a coolant leak around the thermoswitch for the fan relay, and fixed an engine mount bolt that had worked its' way loose. I still need to pick up another sealed battery but the hard part is done now.

Engine mount bolt hanging on.

All fixed up.


Planned location of the box. I had to remove the left rear brake light to get at the area where I wanted to run the battery cables through.

There was already a blank grommet there the perfect size for the positive cable. I just had to drill a second hole for the ground.



Box bolted down with tray.


I ran new main battery cable back to the starter from the rear. I used almost 11 feet.
Mmmm heat-shrink.

Where possible I used the existing body bolts to mount the cable to the underside of the body.



Passing up through the grommets. The bolts are the battery box.

Cables coming in. The red wire wasn't live and isn't there any more. It was just some left over during the project. The strap is so I have some to pull to get the battery back out.

All buttoned up.


Anyway that's it for now. See you next time. Maybe with a sealed battery...
__________________
74 DJ5C - 383 SBC, TH350, D44
46 CJ2A - Dauntless 6, T90, D18
88 XJ - Stock as it gets
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Unread 05-18-2015, 09:43 AM   #15
ravenworks
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: NE, Ohio
Posts: 1,823
I love this thing,great sleeper
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