I had to hobble home with home with no electric cooling fan. Luckily enough the traffic wasn't too bad for the 40 min drive. The new radiator did keep it in the safe temperature zone. I ordered a new electric fan and picked up some aluminum channel and sheet steel to build a basic fan shroud and hopefully be a bit more robust than the aluminum straps. The fan is offset as vertically as possible to keep the deepest part of the electric motor as far away from the waterpump as possible. The tabs around the edge of the opening are drilled through so the fan can be held on with machine screws. The fan is sealed to the sheet steal with aluminum tape.
Some 1/2" aluminum channel gives it some space to act as a shroud. I could probably get away with some 3/4" channel down the road if I wanted to. Three machine screws across the top and bottom hold it on.
I also added a thermostat and automatic fan relay. It's a generic unit from Derale. I have a switch on the dash hooked up to the A/C overide so I can manually run it too.
The electric fan kicks on around 190 and it drops to the 175-180 range. It idled in the driveway for 30 min no problem.
From there I used it on and off as a commuter, fixing a few leaks for last couple weeks and collecting parts for the power brake swap. Yesterday I got the fire under my *** to get it done. I sourced the booster and swing pedal from an 80s cherokee at the junkyard. I re-used the existing master cylinder as it's almost brand new. The Master cylinder bolts are just barely spaced enough to to fit the stock DJ/CJ5 master cylinder.
Problem #1 is the battery is in the way of where the swing pedal and booster assembly needs to go.
Battery out and tray out. You can see the master cylinder down there in its little cage.
Master cylinder removed.
With everything out of the way it's time to measure and mark the opening. Four holes for the bolts and one for the push rod.
I had to make an adapter plate because the DJ master cylinder didn't cover the entire opening of the booster. You can see the gap at the top of the master cylinder.
Lucky I still had some scrap steel plate left over from the fan shroud project. I made a template, marked and cut with the jigsaw.
All mounted up and plumbed.
The plate and some RTV to make sure it's sealed. It's a messy proof of concept right now. Once everything is finalized I'll pull it out, paint it all, and seal it properly sans mess
I ran the lines down to the stock location and into the stock proportioning valve.
Now I had to deal with the brake swing arm hitting the throttle linkage. I picked up a muffler U-bolt for a couple bucks and went to town.
I measured the clearance to the firewall and gave myself an extra 3/4" then cut the U-bolt to length and mocked it up.
Some quick welds.
Some judicious use of the cut-off wheel.
I had to move the fuse boxes to fit around the swing pedal assembly.
Now to test the system. I don't have the cables yet to move the battery to the left rear like I want yet so I stuck it on the front bumper and ran the cables underneath the grille to it. A bit mad maxish. You can see them going under the bottom right side of the grille.
After bleeding the brakes and warming it up I happy to report the brakes work extremely well. Too well in fact. They engage very quickly and strongly. I can easily hold it in place in gear with one finger. I might have to find some sort of vacuum proportioning valve or figure out a way to make it a bit more progressive. They do work great as long as you're gentle with them. They lock REAL easy now.
Well I think that's the updates to today. See you next time when I try to get the wipers going...