I suck at write-ups, but here goes.
This is a list of all the parts I used to install an RCI 2162A into a late model TJ.
RCI 2162A Fuel Cell
Artec RCI 2162A Fuel Cell Mount
Genright pump ring with new gasket
About a foot of 5/8” rubber hose, preferably something fuel resistant, but I just used heater hose as it was readily available & have not had any issues yet.
Bypass Cap Assortment from auto parts store
I purchased these from Jegs
(1) RUS-640850 = EFI to 6 AN fitting
(1) RUS-640860 = Fuel Rail to 6 AN fitting
(1) RUS-671570 = Assembly Lube & Sealant Kit
I purchased all this from Summit
(2) FBM1012 = 6 AN Hose end straight
(1) FBM4033 = -8 90 Swivel hose end
(1) FBM3741 = -8 AN Flare Cap
SUM-230606 = 6 Ft of -6 S.S. braided hose
SUM-230806 = 6 Ft of -8 S.S. braided hose
Aeroquip fitting assembly instructions
First things first, I had the Genright ring TIG welded to the top of the fuel cell to eliminate a gasket & a potential spot for leaks. I positioned the ring as close to the center of the tank as possible. This removes one of the fittings that comes pre-attached to the fuel cell. If you position your ring so it does not remove this fitting, you will need an additional FBM3741 to cap it off.
Next step is to drain & remove your existing fuel tank. I will not cover this process. I’m sure there are adequate write-ups already on how to do this & if you can’t remove your fuel tank, you probably have no business installing a fuel cell by yourself.
Set the tank aside for now, we’ll come back & pillage it soon.
Next we need to locate the fuel cell in its desired resting place. When the 2162 is centered in the bed, the feet from the Artec mount fall directly on the stiffening ribs of the floor, so I shifted my cell slightly to the driver side to get it off of these humps.
I used generic replacement sway bar bushings found at my local auto parts store. Cheap & comes with the exact quantity we need, 8. The holes in the Artec mount are for ¼” bolts. I felt this seemed a little small so, I drilled out the holes & upgraded mine to 5/16” x 1 ½” bolts, flat washers & teflon lock nuts. I used all SS hardware.
Now, let’s get back to the old tank. We need to pillage a few things from it. The (2) lines that connect under the jeep coming back from the engine bay. Pull them out of the retainer clips with the gray evap valve.
& the large vent connector on the passenger side of the tank. Use a hack saw, or cutting instrument of choice, & cut it off as close to the vent body as possible & trim the excess plastic left from cutting it off the vent body to make a smooth tube.
Next you need to remove your fuel pump from the old tank. I used a large flat head screw driver & a dead blow & gently tapped it around in a counter clockwise direction. To remove it from the tank you need to tip the pump assembly. Be careful doing this, as the assembly will still be full of fuel.
Clean the inside of your new fuel cell thoroughly.
Install the fuel pump onto the Genright ring with the new gasket making sure the arrow on top of the pump assembly is pointing towards the front of the Jeep.
Using some sealant from the lube & sealant kit, install FBM3741 = -8 AN Flare Cap onto the fitting in the fuel cell that has the tube attached to it on the inside.
Next, take the FBM4033 = -8 90 Swivel hose end & loosely install it on the other fitting on the top of the cell. Take the tube you cut off the vent of the old tank & install it into large hose it was connected to on the gray evap valve located in the passenger rear fender well. Route the -8 SS Braided hose from the 90 down under the Jeep to the evap location to determine the length it needs to be cut. I routed mine through a hole located on the drivers side just behind my cell location. As seen here…
Use a small section of the 5/8” rubber hose. Slip one end on the tube you cut off the vent of the old tank that is connected to the gray evap valve & the other end over the end of the -8 SS braided hose. Secure each end with Hose clamps. It should now look similar to this.
Cut the -8 SS Braided hose to the required length to connect to the 90 fitting in the top of the fuel cell & assemble the hose & fitting according to Aeroquip instructions posted above.
Next assemble the fuel supply fittings.
RUS-640850 = EFI to 6 AN fitting to an FBM1012 = 6 AN Hose end straight
RUS-640860 = Fuel Rail to 6 AN fitting to the other FBM1012 = 6 AN Hose end straight
Connect the smaller fitting to the fuel pump & the larger fitting to the fuel line under the Jeep.
Route your -6 SS hose under the Jeep. I used a hole directly on the drivers side of the cell to route this hose & the electrical. As seen here.
This is how I routed the hose under the Jeep.
Cut the -6 SS Braided hose to the required length to connect to the fittings & assemble the hose & fittings according to Aeroquip instructions posted above.
Now we need to extend the wiring. I had enough wire on the plug under the Jeep to pull it into the cab. My FSM said the wire gauge was 18, but looked much large than the 18 gauge wire I had, so I ended up using 14 gauge I believe.
Next we need to secure all the evap lines running to the rear corner. I just zip tied them up across the back of the Jeep. Should be 3 lines total. The (2) we pillaged off the old tank & the -8 SS braided line.
Lastly we need to cap off two ports not used on the gray evap valve. I used a Bypass Cap Assortment found in the Help isle of my auto parts store. This is the one I used, there was another box of smaller caps that would have probably worked better.
Just cap off the unused ports & hose clamp them on good.
Connect the gray evap valve back into the pump & stuff it all back up in the wheel well.
That’s it. You should now be able to start the Jeep with no CEL.