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Unread 03-27-2012, 01:42 PM   #106
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I can tell you this--there's no way I could move my drivetrain any lower than it already is. It would sit at the exact same height or maybe 1/4" higher with a well-designed crossmember. As it sits now, the bolt heads for the transmission mount bracket that thread into the transmission are recessed into notches on my t-case skid tranny mount bracket surface. If I switched to a xmember type setup, I don't think I'd be able to maintain enough clearance between the xmember and skid to avoid contact without raising it up a bit. Hope that gives you a little insight into how low you can get things to the skid with the LoPro. Stock for stock, I gained ~4.5" at the belly but only raised the t-case/transmission ~3".

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Unread 03-27-2012, 03:37 PM   #107
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Well sitting here waiting on the guy buying my old axle, I looked over the TC mount & making any effort to do more than the LoPro is wasted time. I only have about an inch between tranny pan & engine skid. At this point I wonder if I will even need to shim the LoPro.

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Unread 03-27-2012, 04:55 PM   #108
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Ah yes, the 42rle. That will define how low you can go down toward the skid....and thus, how high you can tuck.
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Unread 03-28-2012, 02:57 PM   #109
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I'm going to order my front upper control arms probably next Friday. This will be the last peice of the control arm puzzle. I'm leaning towards the standard Currie's because I can get my club discount through 4WP. Not sure I can get the DA through them, I will check. I also will be replacing the stock upper bushings on the Dana 30. And before anyone says it, I'm not doing the Currie housing kit because I'm not wasting my money & time on the Low pinion. When I get to the HP it'll get the housing kit.

With any luck I'll be getting the 3" rear springs & the front Bilsteins orderd up during the month of April as well.
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Unread 03-30-2012, 04:03 PM   #110
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Diggin' the Gopro vids. Hero 1 right?
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Unread 03-30-2012, 04:53 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt.Fuzz
Diggin' the Gopro vids. Hero 1 right?
Thanks! Yea it's the original one not the new hd. I got the motorsports one. Those vids were only in 720p.

My ******* phone...
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Unread 04-02-2012, 04:35 AM   #112
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Finally got a few minutes to work on the Jeep this saturday. Not a whole lot done. Alignment which was still way off from bending my tie rod. I'll finally get a new one on this week, & I have officially added the Ultimate tie rod to the build list & should be bolted up this summer.

I also started to tear into my rear upper control arms, well, one joint on one arm anyway. Weren't enough hours in my day to mess with both. I'll do the rest over at my in laws where I have a vise. It'll make it a lot easier/quicker to get the clip back in. Anyway, when I pulled these apart I fully expected to see two bushing halves. Nope. One solid poly bushing, with one hole in it for grease. If Blaine sees this he'll probably jump my **** that I don't know what I'm talking about, but this design ****ing blows. The reason my joints weren't taking any grease, & were bone dry, is because that bushing either from assembly or just from use, rotated in the housing, so now, that ONE hole for grease is no longer aligned on the zerk fitting. You can tell that none of the grease I ever tried to put in, got even close to the ball. I've used green grease from day one & the grease in that hole is black. So I'm thinking the hole was rotated off the zerk when I got them, straight from Savvy/Currie. You can also see, not in the pic, circle indents from all the different positions the zerk hole has been in around the bushing.




I was a little surprised at the design, as stated I was fully expecting two halves like the larger joints. So I did some research last night. I appears my joint are the 2" NARROW JJ, but instead of the stubbie ball centers @ 1.6" width, they have the standard 2" ball center. Not sure if Savvy did this to get more articulation in the joint within the brackets, but the design of this narrow joint bushing sucks. It should at least have a channel around it for the grease. I'll just clean these up & regrease them with green grease. they'll go away when I eventually four link anyway. Hoping my front uppers I am ordering are the standard 2" joints.

I also put my little man to work. He's a hell of a lug nut spinner! He helped me alot yesterday even with the alignement followed directions to a T & even though I didn't get **** done, it was a productive day just because of this.


I am quite literally a "shade tree mechanic".
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Unread 04-02-2012, 04:44 AM   #113
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I only have the 2.5" jj's. I had no idea jj's came like that. Lol weird.
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f33/?uid=152304

Rear Currie 4" coils - 190 shipped. (They've been sitting in the back of my Jeep for mock up but won't work out for me.)

Hornblasters Shocker S4 horn set with some extras $210 shipped. (It is not OBA, just an accessory for OBA)

"LCOG" isn't cheap and it certainly isn't easy. If you think so, you are doing it wrong. If you aren't willing to put in the effort, don't label your build "LCOG". You are just a cheap ******bag.

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Unread 04-02-2012, 04:45 AM   #114
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I need to make my plea here as well. I'm looking for a Rubicon passenger side front flare. I got a set off ebay cheap & that one is toast & needs replaced. I don't mind trail rash, but needs to be in decent shape.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 06:02 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennettj13 View Post
I only have the 2.5" jj's. I had no idea jj's came like that. Lol weird.
I said the same thing when he sent me that pic. Every 2.5 or 2" JJ I've ever had apart used halves. Not a fan of that single bushing.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 11:34 AM   #116
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Man Danno that single bushing johnny joint design blows. That bushing will move and un-align that zerk hole after you cycle the suspension once. Oh well, that green grease will last for a long time so you wont have to worry.

And cute kid man! He's gonna be a lil jeep expert in a few years lol
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Unread 04-03-2012, 12:30 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B2CARPEN View Post
And cute kid man! He's gonna be a lil jeep expert in a few years lol
Yea, he's awesome. Some of the stuff that comes out of his mouth is just down right hilarious!

He's a very inquisitive kid, so it's fun explaining everything to him. I don't think he fully understands most of it, he's surprised me before, but someday he will explain the pros & cons of a single & double tri 4 link to his mom & I will be forever proud.

Going to start measuring the rig & researching for my rear springs. Any suggestions for manufacturers are welcome. On the list so far is Currie, RC, & BDS. Need to get that *** end settled back down.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 02:53 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
Going to start measuring the rig & researching for my rear springs. Any suggestions for manufacturers are welcome. On the list so far is Currie, RC, & BDS. Need to get that *** end settled back down.
I would throw AEV 3" progressive coils on that list. My top pick would be Currie.

And I have an old set of 2.5" RC progressive coils which are the exact same as what I'm riding on right now. I just wanted some new shiny coils lol. I can ship em out to you for the cost of shipping if you want to give them a try for a while, give you some time to figure out which coils you want to purchase.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 06:35 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B2CARPEN

I would throw AEV 3" progressive coils on that list. My top pick would be Currie.

And I have an old set of 2.5" RC progressive coils which are the exact same as what I'm riding on right now. I just wanted some new shiny coils lol. I can ship em out to you for the cost of shipping if you want to give them a try for a while, give you some time to figure out which coils you want to purchase.
I forgot I was thinking AEV too thanks for reminding me. I took some measurements I will post them tomorrow when I'm at a computer. I might just take you up on that offer Brad.
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Unread 04-04-2012, 04:20 AM   #120
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Ok, here are the measurements I took last night.

I am currently running 4" Currie Progressives in the front & old 4" RC in the rear.

Pavement to bottom of the frame rails just behind the front lower control arm mount & just in front of the rear lower control arm mount. Front springs have a 3/4" spacer.

LF = 20.5" RF = 20.375"
LR = 21.75" RR = 21.5"

Difference is roughly 1.25" with the 3/4" spacer in the front & roughly 2" with it removed.

Actual spring length.

LF = 15.5" RF = 15.75"
LR = 13.375" RR = 13"

The rear spring length kind of threw me. These are 4" RC springs so they should be roughly 12" installed. I figured it's my lack of a spare hanging off the back, 1/4 tank of feul, & the bilstein's pushing up on the rear that contributed to the extra inch.

Now my rear exposed shock length.

LR = 6.875" RR = 6.5"

My thoughts at this moment are to hit Brad up on his offer & try some 2.5" springs, which considering I am getting an extra inch out of the 4" springs, should put me close to level with the 3/4" spacers in the front. I can always take them out if it sits too high.

Here is what my adjusted frame heights I'm guessing would be. Just slightly higher in the front. When I wheel, I add the spare in the tub plus a tool box, so that would drop the *** slightly, so the 3/4" spacers would probably come out & I just might have to cave & install a 1" body lift.

LF = 20.5" RF = 20.375"
LR = 20.25" RR = 20.0"
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