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VANCO DUAL MODE KNUCKLE 15" and 16" Big Brake kiLabor Day Sale!Offset Tie Rod Kit From RuffStuff!

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Unread 05-05-2013, 09:53 PM   #796
JJeeper09
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I had a wobble. Turns out my tires were out of balance

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Unread 05-06-2013, 04:12 AM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJeeper09 View Post
I had a wobble. Turns out my tires were out of balance
I know mine aren't perfectly balanced. Had balance problems since the day I got them, but this doesn't really feel like a balance issue. I might have them spin all of them up when I get the spare mounted, just to see if they might have spun on the rims or something.

Drove it to our club meeting last night. On smooth highway it only wobbles slightly between 52-54. On bumpy back roads it wobbles constantly even at lower speeds. It has not manifested into full on DW like before since I got the new housing bushing installed.

New ball joints & unit bearings are on order & should be here mid-week I hope. Going to install the unit bearings first & give it a test drive to see if those were the issue, then do the ball joints.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 03:53 AM   #798
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Sounds like track bar isn't lined up with steering and getting bumpsteer
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Unread 05-07-2013, 03:57 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwiftJeep View Post
Sounds like track bar isn't lined up with steering and getting bumpsteer
It's not bumpsteer. Nothing changed to change draglink or track bar angle.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 05:57 AM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwiftJeep View Post
Sounds like track bar isn't lined up with steering and getting bumpsteer
Bumpsteer has nothing to do with wobbles. That's not his problem.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 08:21 AM   #801
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I was talking with Huck sunday at our club meeting a little about the wobble & the conversation turned to steering linkage. He recommended getting rid of the inverted Y & going to crossover. Not saying this is the problem with the wobble, just something else to upgrade & get rid of that stupid inverted Y. I also would like to upgrade my brakes. So I've started researching the WJ knuckle coversion. That would take care of two mods in one, with some fab work, that I should be able to handle. I'll start measuring some things this weekend when I install the unit bearing & ball joints.

Shipping confirmation recieved on the ball joints & unit bearing, they should be here tomorrow.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 04:42 AM   #802
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Startling discovery this morning! I plotted drag link & track bar locations & compared both my current setup (inverted Y, stock mounting locations) & using the WJ swap with merely raising & shortening the track bar about 2". I get slightly less movement out of the WJ setup with a shorter track bar than I do with the stock setup. Main reason I believe is that with the higher drag link & track bar locations on the axle, it flattens out the curves. One possible issue I do see is that at full compression on the WJ setup, my track bar & drag link would "cross over" each other. I'm not 100% in tune with steering geometry to even know if that's an issue, was just something odd I noticed. I drew it up in AutoCAD, if I can figure out how to get it posted as a pic I will.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 09:56 AM   #803
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Your wobble has absolutely nothing to do with the steering linkage geometry. And if the WJ swap was worth the work, I would've already done it. Just my opinion.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 10:10 AM   #804
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The biggest advantage to the WJ swap IMO is the brakes. For the price of the Vanco 16" kit you can have the same brakes essentially and have KO steering included for about the same price. Just a good bit of work. I would never pay to have it done but if you are into tinkering in the garage, may be worth it for some people. I've considered it but just do not think I want to put any more work or $ into my hp30.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 11:08 AM   #805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your wobble has absolutely nothing to do with the steering linkage geometry. And if the WJ swap was worth the work, I would've already done it. Just my opinion.
I know, & I stated that a few posts back. The bigger brakes are the main reason for looking into the WJ swap with the added bonus of getting rid of the inverted Y. I figure the WJ swap could be done for considerably less than the Vanco kit, & since, as you stated, backordered with no indication of when production will resume, the WJ swap looks a little more appealing.

From what I've read in a few swap threads, it doesn't look like THAT much work. Spacers on the knuckles, relocate the track bar & possibly notch the frame, & flip the TRE. Sure as hell isn't nearly as complicated as some of the mods we do.

I know just raising & shortening the track bar on the axle isn't the 100% correct way to do it as far as geometry goes, but I highly doubt it's going to make a noticable difference. Most do it this way that are still running the stock spring locations. If I wanted to throw an extra grand at it, coil overs would fix that issue quick & the track bar would run to the knuckle.

BTW, as of September 13, 2012 @ 12:28pm, just 8 short months ago, you were planning on doing this exact same swap according to the thread I was reading on Wrangler Forum "just to do it".
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Unread 05-09-2013, 03:24 PM   #806
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I understand the desire to build perfect steering geometry when possible. I think it's less critical than people make it out to be for a normal use rig. Ideally you want 1) drag & track same length. 2) parallel. & 3) mounting points in line. Go look at a stock tj & tell me how many of those 3 bullet points they managed to get right. Now how many stock tjs have excessive bump steer? If I was building a high speed race rig or comp rig, I completely see the importance of it.

I have other things I need to research & I'm not fully sold on doing this yet, but I feel the steering geometry isn't going to be the deal breaker. A dramatic increase in braking is worth a possible minor increase in bump steer seeing as how this is no longer my DD.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 07:48 AM   #807
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I was severely low on my "in my head" budget number to do the WJ knuckle swap. I was figuring $300-$400. I started throwing together a spreadsheet & it quickly got out of control. Cheapest I could safely do this would be about $800-$900. I'm not willing to put that much into a Dana 30 that will decrease the market for it when I look to sell it. As it sits now I'm hoping I could find a newb looking to regear & sell him on the locker, chromos & JJ housing kit & get at least $500-$600 out of it for a bolt in axle, what he would normally pay just for the regear. The work that would be involved to switch to the WJ steering would probably turn all the newbs away from this axle & most experienced guys willing to do fab work, would just build their own or, put a whole new axle in anyways.

So. As far as the front axle goes, I think I'm back to finding a HP Dana 44 from an old ford & narrowing to waggy width. I keep coming back to this, that should tell me something.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 10:57 AM   #808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
I was severely low on my "in my head" budget number to do the WJ knuckle swap. I was figuring $300-$400. I started throwing together a spreadsheet & it quickly got out of control. Cheapest I could safely do this would be about $800-$900. I'm not willing to put that much into a Dana 30 that will decrease the market for it when I look to sell it. As it sits now I'm hoping I could find a newb looking to regear & sell him on the locker, chromos & JJ housing kit & get at least $500-$600 out of it for a bolt in axle, what he would normally pay just for the regear. The work that would be involved to switch to the WJ steering would probably turn all the newbs away from this axle & most experienced guys willing to do fab work, would just build their own or, put a whole new axle in anyways.

So. As far as the front axle goes, I think I'm back to finding a HP Dana 44 from an old ford & narrowing to waggy width. I keep coming back to this, that should tell me something.
Exactly where I was in my head 5 months ago. Although I was able to use some junk yard parts and cut my own plates (suck as the JKS bits) for free at work to get my total cost to around $700-750. Still not worth it. Then if I ditched the lockrite for a selectable, chromos, etc. that is a lot of coin on a D30, hp or not. HP44 cut to Rubicon width with RCVs is where I was leaning for 37s (someday).
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Unread 05-10-2013, 03:42 PM   #809
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Lots to get done this week! I keep adding more to it!

The list:
Ball joints
Unit bearings
Alignment
Mount engine skid
Grind my reverse notch on the shifter
Lower my fan shroud. Rubs a little when it's flexed out.
I want to build an elevated tire rack above the tub. Thinking some 2" aluminum angle bolted to the top of the wheel wells.

I need to relocate my axle side rear shock mounts. They are slightly too far in & the shock bodies contact the frame & bend a little when flexed out good. Not sure i'll get to this. Any thoughts if it would be strong enough just to mount the shock to the outside of the bracket? Basically in a single shear type mounting.

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Unread 05-10-2013, 05:55 PM   #810
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Put me on the list for that HP30.
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