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Unread 02-26-2013, 11:37 AM   #721
nardharv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
I've been checking in every once & a while. I was thinking about the ORI's instead of the CO last night actually. Must be nice to have a machine shop & 3D design software at your disposal.
It is... but to be honest, I've been doing everything in my garage with my home tools except for barrowing the plasma cutter and welder from the shop.

I went with ORI's for the simplicity... no bumps, limit straps or sway bar (TBD). It is an extremely tight fit. There is about 3/8" between the inside of the poly shock mounts and with one side at full stuff and the other at full droop I have about 1/8" clearance between the ORI and the shock tower on one side and nearly rubbing the tire on the ORI on the other. I currently running a 1" wheel spacer. If I ever go 37's I'll have to run a thicker wheel spacer.

The max I could only get is ~5" of uptravel. The limit is the poly cross member hitting the underside of the tub. This is with 1.25" body lift and I cut ~ 1.5" off the height of cross member.



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Unread 02-26-2013, 12:44 PM   #722
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You're doing awesome work Will, keep it up. I can't wait to see that thing.
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Unread 02-26-2013, 12:52 PM   #723
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Those are some pretty ORI's...
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Unread 02-26-2013, 02:08 PM   #724
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Yea, Will, that's looking good man! Sounds like it's pretty tight in there.

I think I've made up my mind that the stretch is the direction I'm going to go. It'll get me wheeling the tougher stuff, but give me ample time to aquire a set of axles & slowly put that entire package together so it can be dropped in fairly quickly. Those will probably wait a coouple years until I have a good space to work on them & store them. My current axles should be good for 35s. I don't get too stupid with my junk simply because I drive it to & from the trail, so they should survive just fine. I've been cruising Pirate build threads looking for different ideas on stretch configurations, that was a mistake. I see full width tons in my future at some point. So, now I need to figure out if I should try to pack ORI's in there, which will be tight, because I am running an 8.8 which is a tad narrower than Will's D44. I planned on running some wheel spacers, but don't want to go any wider than I need to. Coils & shocks is obviously the cheapest & easiest option as I can probably use everthing I have in those departments. use the existing frame rails & then just chop them off & back half when I go full width & CO. If I ever get caught up at work, I'll start playing with the 4 link calculator.
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Unread 03-04-2013, 01:15 PM   #725
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Did a little wrenching this weekend. Mainly messing around to see if I could lessen the DW any. Toe didn't do ****, sort of knew that wouldn't. Tire pressure seems to do the best to mask it. 32 psi & I feel a hint of it at sbout 54 ish & it goes away about 56ish. I ordered up the JJ housing kit. Connor's going to give me a hand saturday getting it installed & all welded up. Hopefully this cures the DW issue.

I installed the front DS I got from James. Still have some vibes. They don't seem as bad, but they are still there, & annoying. So I'm not sure if his shaft has a little vibe to it too or if it's something like pinion bearing or TC output bearing. Not going to sweat it at this point. I got bigger fish to fry.

I also ordered a tube adapter from Ruff Stuff this morning. I obviously welded the track bar bracket a little off when I moutned it on the 8.8. The Iron Rock Offroad instructions were a little lacking & I mounted it the best I could figure out. My axle is about 3/4" off center & when flexed out the pass side shock can bottoms out ont he frame & tweeks the shock really bad. Cutting out the old tube adapter ont he track bar, shortening & welding in the new adapter is on our list for saturday too.

I found out what was making the hissing sound. When I did the motor mount lift on of the rubber fuel return hoses from the intake pulled off the hard line on the frame rail. Quick zip tie got that fixed & the P0306 code went away with that as well.

I've also been researching rear stretches a little today. I REALLY like what Blaine did to CVD's rig. Extremely simple & shouldn't really have to change much. Mounting a rear anti-rock would be a no brainer as well. I'll have to pull some measurements, but I can probably use my current shock outboard & do the normal coil relocation while I'm at it with minimal messing around to get correct ride height on the coils. Biggest headache of that setup might be the rear body mounts.
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Unread 03-04-2013, 02:51 PM   #726
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Here is a pic of CVD's stretch for those not familiar with it.

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Unread 03-07-2013, 12:40 PM   #727
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I'm going to start slowly acquiring parts for the stretch & 4 link that will hopefully happen later this year. First purchase will probably be Johnny Joints, so I need some feeback on link & joint size. I'm thinking of just making all (4) links out of 2" x 1/4" wall DOM with 2 1/2" x 1 1/4" shank JJ. I know that's overkill for the upper links, but is there any real negatives to doing that? I know it'll weigh a bit more, but not real worried about a couple lbs. Cost savings from going to something smaller would be minimal too. I could also carry one spare JJ that could replace all (4) joints if need be.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 12:46 PM   #728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
I'm going to start slowly acquiring parts for the stretch & 4 link that will hopefully happen later this year. First purchase will probably be Johnny Joints, so I need some feeback on link & joint size. I'm thinking of just making all (4) links out of 2" x 1/4" wall DOM with 2 1/2" x 1 1/4" shank JJ. I know that's overkill for the upper links, but is there any real negatives to doing that? I know it'll weigh a bit more, but not real worried about a couple lbs. Cost savings from going to something smaller would be minimal too. I could also carry one spare JJ that could replace all (4) joints if need be.
No arguments with that logic, whatsoever. Proceed.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 01:00 PM   #729
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I would only use 2.5" JJ's with 9/16" center balls. No reason to use anything smaller than 1.25" shank unless you need to save space to avoid interference by using a smaller shank and, thus, smaller tube. The only place I don't use 1.25" shanks and 2" x .25" wall tube is the rear uppers--I use 1" shanks and 1.5" tube--and I did that for no reason at all.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 06:52 AM   #730
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I've been spending more time over on Pirate, but **** just got real. Just subscribed to CRAWL.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:21 AM   #731
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Going to place the first big order for stretch parts this friday.

Wondering if anyone had any opinions on Barnes 4x4? Both their Customer Service & the quality of their parts.

Main thing I'm wondering about is their axle truss. It looks pretty beef. 3/8" steel, but doesn't tie into the diff cover like the BTF truss does. I've seen a few builds over on Pirate that use trusses similar to this & those are some killer rigs. If need be I'm sure I could get something fabbed up to tie it into the diff cover. The price is VERY appealing compared to 3 times as much for the BTF truss.

Barnes Axle Truss Link
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:41 AM   #732
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I've got the steel in my garage to build a truss like the Barnes.....it's 1/3 the cost because it provides 1/3 of the parts, if that. The cost of the BTF stuff is in the provided diff cover, thicker truss (1/2"), tie in plate and hardware. After bending a truss and doing some homework on truss design, I doubt you'll ever catch me not running one that ties into the center section in some capacity. You could always order the BTF diff cover and the rest can be fabbed pretty easily.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #733
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Other than the truss what are you purchasing Danno?
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Unread 03-13-2013, 10:46 AM   #734
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Most of my steering stuff is from Barnes (heims and threaded inserts). I am very happy with their customer service thus far.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 01:05 PM   #735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I've got the steel in my garage to build a truss like the Barnes.....it's 1/3 the cost because it provides 1/3 of the parts, if that. The cost of the BTF stuff is in the provided diff cover, thicker truss (1/2"), tie in plate and hardware. After bending a truss and doing some homework on truss design, I doubt you'll ever catch me not running one that ties into the center section in some capacity. You could always order the BTF diff cover and the rest can be fabbed pretty easily.
I can get some 1/2" steel from work too. I assume instead of bending it on a press break it'd be easier & actually stronger to weld the seams. I could have them welded together with our big welder & burn the radius for the axle tube in here at work with a torch. I have a Riddler cover I'm running now, what are your thoughts on just running one of BTF's diff rings under the cover & getting some longer grade 8 cover bolts?

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Other than the truss what are you purchasing Danno?
Just some off the shelf stuff. Johnny Joints, Jam Nuts, tube inserts, CA brackets, etc.
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