Dana 60/14 bolt build and stretch - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 112 Old 12-20-2015, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
adamc55
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Dana 60/14 bolt build and stretch

Posted this elsewhere but I thought I could get more input here.



Well, to go along with my typical problem of not being satisfied with what I have lol, I've decided to build up a Dana 60 and 14 bolt.

I took major advantage of all the cyber Monday sales and bought several goodies from ruffstuff, artec and ballistic. I'm completely set as far as shock brackets, spring pads, link mounts, rear truss, and diff covers go. For the front I ordered the ballistic fab all in one coil, lca and shock mounts. They seemed like the simplest option for that. My only worry is that the spring pads will be so far out on the axle, against the inner c's, that it will cause my springs to angle outwards. I guess I'll see once I get them.

So far I havnt been able to clean them up much. The guy I bought them from had started a front truss but unfortunately it wasn't going to work for what I have in mind, so I had to remove it. Sorry Ron. I got a piece of 3/8" bar for the upper 3 link mount. I'm going to have a tie in coming off of the diff cover too. I was able to get some bends done on it before work. I'm going to have a small truss continue on the long side of the axle also, cause that's what all the cool guys do.

At least its a start to something!







Here's the last pic of the 30, it served me well for awhile




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Had another 15 mins at the shop so I finished bending and notching this part of the truss. Pretty happy with it so far, going to weld all the spots I cut and bent and maybe throw in some gussets just because












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Got the 8.8 out, I forgot how heavy that thing is!






Also got a couple boxes from ruffstuff, everything is very high quality for sure and the diff covers are beefy to say the least



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Well both of the axles are out and on their way to North Carolina! I'm not gonna lie I'm sad to see them go. Nobody make fun of my jack stands lol














Also made some more progress on the 60 truss, its starting to take shape. Still have to finish drilling some of the holes. Ruffstuff diff cover is awesome too.






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Scrubbed the axle down with a flap disc and a wire wheel, got it pretty decent. I was able to finish alot of the truss welding, I set the pinion at a similar angle to what the 30 was at.



Pretty happy with how its turning out




Also got the ballistic fab spring perch combo brackets, kind of disappointed I didn't get a sticker or anything lol.




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Made some more progress in the 30 mins I had today, was able to finish welding the truss. Also got the lower races and kingpins out, I had to use the welder to heat them up but after I did that they came right out










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post #2 of 112 Old 12-20-2015, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
adamc55
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I tacked on the lca brackets as high up and inward as they could go. I might have to do some trimming but they might work at this location. I slid the axle under and bolted the lca's in just to check some stuff












Right now the pinion would hit the oil pan for sure but after the stretch it might be OK, the driveshaft is definitely going to be close.












It seems like I should have some space, after I put a flat pitman arm on, for alittle stretch but idk how much.





I also have an idea with my current rough country track bar mount. Right now it bolts to the old mount and drops it down, but I'm thinking about cutting the stock one off and the drop down portion of the rc mount. And then modifying the upper portion to bolt the frame side of the track bar to.

After looking more I'm thinking of getting the ruffstuff track bar kit with the offset axle mount and outside frame bracket.






This bolt shows what I mean.





I got all my artec stuff today too, super high quality as usual.





They threw in a little ornament and I got creative with it, ruffstuff probably wouldn't be happy about this lol




I wanted to do something different with it, so I put some red on and clear glossed the whole thing



I also put my tires up to the Jeep and did some measuring and comparison.

Here's stock location



Here's 3" forward



Here it is at 100"-101" wheel base








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There is some frame rot starting right where that UCA bolt access hole is in the frame so I am considering the artec back half kit.


Did some more stuff today. Trimmed the shock mount area to make more room for the lowers and moved the control arm brackets down some. Finish welded everything that's on the axle so far.




Fabbed up a semi ugly looking diff cover to truss tie in. It'll do its job.




Then I painted the front diff cover, I did a little different design since I didn't have another artec symbol.





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post #3 of 112 Old 12-25-2015, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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I think instead of a full back half I've decided to just do something like this




It will end up costing me alot less and be less work in the long run. Where my frame is getting kinda rusty I'm going to just strengthen with fish plates
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post #4 of 112 Old 12-25-2015, 05:24 PM
jason m
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Nice start, one word of advise weld your 14 bolt tubes to the center section. Yes I know your adding a truss but this is the one down fall of the 14 bolt is the 3 plug welds cān crack under a hard load and slightly twist them even with a truss. Unless it's a massive truss.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...


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post #5 of 112 Old 12-25-2015, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Nice start, one word of advise weld your 14 bolt tubes to the center section. Yes I know your adding a truss but this is the one down fall of the 14 bolt is the 3 plug welds cān crack under a hard load and slightly twist them even with a truss. Unless it's a massive truss.

Jason.
Thanks alot, I've got the artec truss, bridge and yoke guard so it'll be pretty well supported but I'll plan on welding the tubes as well.
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post #6 of 112 Old 12-28-2015, 12:39 PM
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Haters I'm sorry.

Looks good but, the Fire/EMS gremlin in me gets nervous when I see a vehicle supported with cinder blocks, especially one that someone is crawling around under. Invest in some good tall jack stands. Cinder blocks don't have much strength on the side webs, and especially when they are not centered under the load.

I own a Harley and a JEEP, still some people can't figure out why I'm broke!
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post #7 of 112 Old 12-28-2015, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
adamc55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2k-fxst View Post
Haters I'm sorry.

Looks good but, the Fire/EMS gremlin in me gets nervous when I see a vehicle supported with cinder blocks, especially one that someone is crawling around under. Invest in some good tall jack stands. Cinder blocks don't have much strength on the side webs, and especially when they are not centered under the load.
Thanks for thinking of my safety, I know alot of people including me do things the stupid dangerous way sometimes. Your right, blocks crumble if laid on their side with a load, but I have no cement blocks on their side, they are in their load bearing position. I am a general contractor that does work with a mobile home sales company once and awhile, the homes are all supported by cement blocks stacked on buried concrete piers with a wooden isolator on top in the same manner and they weigh an awful lot. Sincerely though thank you for thinking of my safety and I do hope to replace this method with some nice jack stands.
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post #8 of 112 Old 12-30-2015, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Not much to update, I moved around some stuff so that I had better access to the front and back of the jeep. I also got the old rough country track bar mount cut off.





I hope to get some more done tomorrow. I have a new track bar and mounts on the way. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do to stretch the lower control arms. I have some 1.5" .125" Dom that fits perfect inside the 2" .25" square, but I'm not sure if that's strong enough.
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post #9 of 112 Old 12-31-2015, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Had some time today and got alot done, at least it seemed like it. I got about 3/4 the way through the stock track bar mount, that thing is really on there! I also got the gas tank out, look at all that room back there.





I cut the rear fenders in half and mocked them up about 5" apart.



I had some hrew sch40 tubing that was the exact size of the tubing used on the smittybilt fenders, I cut 2 5.25" pieces and got one side welded in. The next step is to use some plate, looks thin maybe 1/8" at the thickest, to fill in the gaps on the top and back of the fenders. Should work out pretty good.


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post #10 of 112 Old 01-04-2016, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Finished one of the fenders today, turned out pretty good for using some scrap.







The rear corner was kind of weird because of the radius, so I made a small filler piece.





Cut a small piece of tubing to finish it




Ground down smooth, looks better in person I promise





Traced the new fender well



And crossed the point of no return



I've got about a 42" span at the lowest part, should be good.


What was removed




The end result




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post #11 of 112 Old 01-08-2016, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Actually got alot done today, I cut the cross member in half and removed the drivers side portion. It's crazy how much strength that crossmember adds to the front of the frame, as soon as I cut it the drivers side dropped down about 1/2". Also got the one bolt sleeve cut out of the frame.




Cut off the original steering box mount and moved it forward. Ended up gaining about 3.75".








Notched out some of the frame for the new crossmember





Welded on the mount and put the sleeve in its new spot. It's ugly but it'll work.








Mocked up the piece of 1/4" angle I'm using as part of the crossmember.




And I got one side welded up. The passenger side is tacked on and there is still alot of drivers side frame movement. I'm hoping once all the welding is done and I tie into the old crossmember it'll be back to factory strength, if not I'll have to add some more support.





The steering box fits good in this spot, the lines are long enough to reach. I just have to extend the steering shaft.
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post #12 of 112 Old 01-12-2016, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got my ruffstuff track bar kit today, I'm still waiting on the frame side bracket, it'll be here Thursday. The problem I ran into is that if the axle side mount sits on the axle like its made to all but the top mounting holes are blocked by the truss. I tacked it on in a spot that may work but I'm not sure. In this location the part of the bracket that would normally be on the bottom curve of the axle tube is instead sitting more in the middle of the tube. It's also resting againts the truss and spring pad. My main concern is the spring coming into contact with the bracket during articulation. I like the height that the bracket will be at and hopefully the track bar will be above the diff cover enough. Any thoughts on its location?












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post #13 of 112 Old 01-15-2016, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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I'm struggling to get the cross member strong enough to keep the drivers side frame rail from moving. It seems no matter what I do it still drops s a little when I take the jack out from under it. Maybe it's normal but I don't remember it doing that. The problem probably lies where the new cross member attaches to the frame rails, something about that is allowing them to rack slightly. I tied it in to the old crossmember and added some triangulation but it didn't solve the problem. I guess I'll just have to keep trying stuff.




Any suggestions?
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post #14 of 112 Old 01-15-2016, 10:34 AM
jason m
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Im confused, what's moving the frame?


Hard to see what your asking with that one Pic.


Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...


The happiest people don't have the best of everything, they make the best of everything.



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post #15 of 112 Old 01-15-2016, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Im confused, what's moving the frame?


Hard to see what your asking with that one Pic.


Jason.
I guess I should have explained better, I'm the one moving the frame using a bottle jack under the steering box mount. When I cut the original crossmember the drivers side frame rail dropped down about .5". That's when I put the bottle jack under the steering box mount and got the frame up to the same plane as the passenger side. While it was supported I welded up the new crossmember . when that was all done I let the pressure off the bottle jack and the frame rail keeps dropping back down lower than the passenger side, so much so that the rubber bumper on the bottom of the grill isn't touching the frame. It just seems to move up and down to easily to me, I keep thinking of what would happen on a hard landing or if I hit a big rock. I'll try to get more pictures later
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