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Unread 03-09-2013, 04:20 PM   #16
ssyj94
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Quote:
have you given f250 shock towers a thought?
f250 towers wont work with coilovers or air shocks.


OP looks like the setup wil work well. I was actually contemplating a similar front setup using a bronco frontend for awhile. I cant tell from the pictures but why do your shock hoops look so tall? I know guys who fit 14" shocks under the hood. And in the rear I'd mount the hoops normally making it easier to tie them together or to the cage. Either way you run the hoops you may have to rework the wheelwells.

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Unread 03-09-2013, 04:25 PM   #17
mike_breaker_5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssyj94 View Post
f250 towers wont work with coilovers or air shocks.


OP looks like the setup wil work well. I was actually contemplating a similar front setup using a bronco frontend for awhile. I cant tell from the pictures but why do your shock hoops look so tall? I know guys who fit 14" shocks under the hood. And in the rear I'd mount the hoops normally making it easier to tie them together or to the cage. Either way you run the hoops your going to have to rework the wheelwells.
good to know. didn't know that.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 10:41 AM   #18
daddyjeep87
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My shock towers are tall because I am trying to keep this thing low. I could definately cut them and make them lower, but then I would either need to raise my ride height or use a shorter shock. neither of those options work for me.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 12:24 PM   #19
ssyj94
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Quote:
My shock towers are tall because I am trying to keep this thing low. I could definately cut them and make them lower, but then I would either need to raise my ride height or use a shorter shock. neither of those options work for me.
I get your trying to keep it super low but what kind of up travel are you shooting for looks to me like your going to end up with about 3" upfront and 11" down. Depending on your front shaft length you'll prob have to strap the shocks to 12" or run a 2 piece shaft to keep it alive. Without the motor in there not sure where the axle lands in relation to the crank pulley which usually limits the up further. Just an observation from dealing with mine almost binding at droop and hitting the radiator at bump using 12" shocks. I'd mock up a few things before finally burning in the shock mounts. Here's how mine turned out. (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/y...overs-1121183/)
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Unread 03-10-2013, 08:23 PM   #20
daddyjeep87
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I appreciate the information. These are all worries of mine. It isn't easy building a rig this low. I am currently building for 4" up and 10" down. I will definateld by building or buying custom D-shafts for both ends. I need to get my engine back soon so I can finalize the position of everything and determine shaft lengths.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 09:54 PM   #21
daddyjeep87
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Parts...Got my spare Jeep today. Paid $200. I will be pulling the NP 231 and swapping the input shaft out of my NP 249. Getting the gas tank so I have the in tank pump to feed my 5.2. Taking the steering box because it is easier than trying to get the drop pitman arm off the one I have now, plus mine is leaking pretty bad. I am pulling the family style cage so my kids finally have shoulder harnesses. The seats that came with this Jeep are in better shape than mine too. I have a guy coming to look at what is left and hopefully will get my $200 back. Now that is a win!

20130310_112629.jpg
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Unread 03-11-2013, 04:36 AM   #22
mike_breaker_5
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does it have a tilt steering column for a manual i it by chance? i am in need of one before too long.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 03:36 PM   #23
daddyjeep87
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It is not a tilt column, but if you still want it let me know.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 10:15 PM   #24
daddyjeep87
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Got my Harbor Freight Tubing Notcher today. I was able to finish up my rear links. I oficially have a 4 link! I was hoping to get some flex shots, but I ran out of time. Stay tuned...I will get to that tomorrow.

20130320_204322.jpg
Notcher in action. I was happy with it's performance. I know a lot of guys say that it is a cheap tool and you get what you pay for, but it sure does a better job than a grinder.

20130320_225600.jpg

20130320_225615.jpg
Not too bad of a weld. i am definately improving.

The parts Jeep is gone now. I got the NP231, Gas Tank, steering box, steering column, and roll cage alll for $70. Now I am going to have to pull the input shaft out of my 249 and transplant it into the 231.
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Unread 03-21-2013, 09:45 PM   #25
daddyjeep87
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As promised...some flex pics.

20130321_183217.jpg

The 4 links work great, no binding throughout the travel. I found that I am going to have an issue with my shocks though. Now I see why guys narrow the rear section of the frame. I need the back seat to be functional for the kids.Looks like I will have to go with my previous alternate plan for the rear shock hoops. I won't have any issues getting to the bolts because they will be above the rear wheel wells. (I took some measurements from the parts Jeep before it went away). Of course this means that the shocks will now hit the frame at full droop. I have enough room to notch the frame for clearance.

20130321_184522.jpg



20130321_185449.jpg
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Unread 03-23-2013, 10:20 PM   #26
daddyjeep87
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Lots of welding today. All of my suspension mounts are permanent now. I love how the bracing for the front frame mounts turned out. It is too bad they are on the inside of the frame.

20130323_173528.jpg

Fully welded axle mount

20130323_175454.jpg

I got one of the rear shock hoops finalized too, but did not get a pic yet. I will get the other one done tomorrow and start on clearancing the frame so my shocks fit.
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Unread 03-24-2013, 09:51 PM   #27
daddyjeep87
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Lots of welding this weekend...did I say that already? The suspension is done. I just need to find a little cash to get my Air Shocks. Final pics of rear shock hoops. If you look through the holes in the shock hoops the front and rear are almost perfectly aligned, that wasn't planned, but it will put the shocks at the same angle front and rear.

20130324_133505.jpg

In the picture there is a full 3 feet under the rear tire and the front still has 6 1/2" of travel left. I should be able to get at least another foot under the rear tire before I max out the front. This is way more than I expected. I am really excited to get this thing together now.

I cut a huge notch in the rear of the frame for shock clearance.

20130324_195942.jpg

Plate welded on to close up the huge hole I created. I have a little grinding to do and I am going to weld a plate on top from both legs of the hoop just to make sure everyhing stays strong. There is only 1/2" of frame left at the narrowest point.

20130324_205617.jpg
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My Build http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/daddyjeep-121-day-87-yj-5-2-lcg-4-link-build-1479204/
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Unread 03-30-2013, 10:01 PM   #28
daddyjeep87
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Frame notch finalized. I welded angle iron to give the notch a little support.

20130327_122337.jpg

Shock tabs weled on to the front knuckles

20130329_212748.jpg

Got the pitman arm from the astro box mounted on the Jeep box. Once I get a reamer I can mount the drag link on top so I actually have room for my axle to move. I added a little color too. I plan on painting the engine the same color.

20130330_192919.jpg
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87YJ 5.2/46RH/NP231 D44/9in 4.56 4 link rear, radius arm front
My Build http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/daddyjeep-121-day-87-yj-5-2-lcg-4-link-build-1479204/
Start planning for 2014, updated site http://www.bantamjeepfestival.com/
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Unread 03-31-2013, 04:09 PM   #29
soonermatt
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I've been toying with that same steering setup. I have the Astro box + Astro pitman and was looking for a Durango box with the Astro pitman (Im stretched forward too). I was curious about the tie rod hitting but thought I could bend the pitman up.

Is yours clearing well?
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Unread 03-31-2013, 09:54 PM   #30
daddyjeep87
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Soonermatt, I don't know yet how it is working out for me. I am thinking about mounting the drag link on top, but am not sure yet how that will work. Stay tuned, hopefully I will have that sorted out this week.


Here is a shot showing the angle that my shocks will be. My axles are full width, 65 1/4" WMS to WMS. Shock hoops are 10 degrees out and the shocks are also 10 degrees out.

20130331_192627.jpg

I used my stock rear trac bar up front and it worked like it was designed to be there. The stock frame mount was cut off and moved back a few inches and I made a bracket for the axle end that bolts on where the coil bucket used to be.

20130331_221224.jpg
20130331_221241.jpg
20130331_221314.jpg
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87YJ 5.2/46RH/NP231 D44/9in 4.56 4 link rear, radius arm front
My Build http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/daddyjeep-121-day-87-yj-5-2-lcg-4-link-build-1479204/
Start planning for 2014, updated site http://www.bantamjeepfestival.com/
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