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Unread 05-03-2015, 07:53 PM   #1
EngineBuilder
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 57
Hey guys, figured I would get on here and post my build and pics of my build. Not sure if there are many posts out there of an engine builder posting pictures of the machining processes and problems and issues with doing a custom motor like I have been preparing to do, but I am excited to share and get feedback from others.

First off, I am an engine builder that works at a race engine shop and of course we mainly build race motors from street and strip to circle track and road race. Well I have had this TJ since 2006 and I love it but would obviously love to have more power. Maybe one day I will do a LS swap but for now I have my heart set on figuring out how to unleash maximum power from the inline 6. So here is where I am starting....

I have started with a stock 4.2l crank that has been nitrited and offset ground to the cranks maximum which was 3.957 after relaxing the crank and straightening it.
These cranks are great cranks but are well known for having at a min of .003 difference from main journal one to seven. Make sure your crank grinder is aware of this and straightens the crank before final finishing the offset grind. Also for my particular build I asked him to leave as much fillet as possible on the side of the rod journals while grinding it, and to find out why you will have to stay tuned... So that is just the crank and the basic work done to it other than having it balanced to my bob weight and having it coated with oil shed from a company named Polydyne in Houston TX.

To make sure the crank stays in place and to also avoid cap walk I have upgraded to arp main studs. To recondition the block i torqued all caps with arp studs and took measurements of every housing bore. I than proceeded to cut the caps and I will align hone it for a more uniform bore. When I do this I don't like more than .0003 spread, meaning if my low is 2.6910 my max bore won't exceed 2.6913. But I will aim for the split but have no more than my .0003 spread.I am ready for this process but I have been backed up on the align hone and haven't started yet. When I do I will try and post pictures and my measurements taken during the process.

I have the whole build planned out but I will post as progress goes along. As of right now I have almost everything needed except custom Wiseco pistons which shouldn't take more than 4 or 5 more weeks and custom rods. New edelbrock head is already in hand, I truly think I am one of the first people to have it, so my parts distributor says to, just trying to make my head big.... But all the little pieces from bearings to timing set, oil pump, balancer are all in hand ready for life. All questions are welcome and I apologize for my lack of forum knowledge as this is my first.thanks for reading and happy trailing!


Last edited by EngineBuilder; 05-04-2015 at 02:32 PM..
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Unread 05-04-2015, 11:44 AM   #2
EngineBuilder
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Here are a couple of pictures of the new edelbrock 4.0 aluminum cylinder head.I ordered it bare so that I could have more options for valves and springs. I will be ordering LS titanium intakes and haven't decided on exhaust yet. Still doing weight and application research. The springs I will team up with no other than PAC and get a spring that will work for the pressure I need.any questions feel free.
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Unread 05-04-2015, 01:58 PM   #3
Frayed_Knot
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Louisville
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You have my attention. Carry on..... I'll be following along.
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Unread 05-04-2015, 07:08 PM   #4
TexNVa
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Location: Mechanicsville, Va
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You and me both. I really enjoy watching these inline 6 builds, people get some pretty awesome power out of them. Being an engine builder I'm excited to see the final product. you going to add boost, or keep it naturally aspirated? also curious to see how you fit the LS intakes as well.
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Unread 05-04-2015, 07:32 PM   #5
EngineBuilder
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I will be adding boost in the future, but I won't need to fit an LS intake at this point. My plans are a sheet metal intake manifold for the inline 6 when I install it in my jeep.

Last edited by EngineBuilder; 05-04-2015 at 07:48 PM..
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Unread 05-05-2015, 07:59 AM   #6
supernatural1
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I will be following this closely.
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Unread 05-05-2015, 08:54 AM   #7
BimotaBruce
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Location: El Lay, CA
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A very commendable build in quality and thoroughness!

What I am missing so far is some kind of a Mission Statement and documentation of results.

Are you going for HP or torque or ?? And what are the numbers for those goals? Is a dyno involved, and what will be done to assure an equal comparison of before/after? What's the baseline to compare for improvement? Is there a budget, or is this a "whatever it takes" build?

Congrats on scoring that Edelbrock head BTW. I'm certain that you really did get one of the first ones out. When I looked at their published specs, I became concerned that this was a horsepower only kind of head, and that would come at the expense of the torque curve. I kind of abandoned the thought of buying one at that point...at least for what I use my Jeep for.

Keep up the good work and documentation...I'm subscribed!

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4" Currie springs/CA's, TR beadlocks, 35" MTR's, D44's ARB's & 4.27's, RCV & Superior, OR241, UCF TT
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Unread 05-05-2015, 12:02 PM   #8
EngineBuilder
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Hi, BimotaBruce. So as far as a mission statement, I really haven't thought to much into it. Trying to get my name out there, show what kind of product I can put together that will have longevity.Documentation will come straight from the dyno and most of this will be video. I know dyno info is easy modified on the screen by temps and data entered so I will do my best to show ambient temp, dyno temp reading and any other things I can do to verify progress.

As far as the build we are focusing on unleashing "power". so this can be controversial but my exsperience again mine is as hp or torque goes up the other is going to follow. Now depending where you want to make your power as in 1000Rpm or 5000rpm is in your cam selection and by degreing the cam.so a few spoilers I do have a custom grind roller cam being made, and I will see a whole lot of torque at 1000rpm. But this torque will translate into getting me moving. Good ol saying torque gets you there horse power keeps you there.

Dynos, ok so I have access to an engine dyno and a car dyno. I will prob go with the car dyno because the engine dyno will take some customization to mount and a waste of a bell housing. So it will be slightly difficult to determine what is at the crank with the driveline angle. But thank god for math because it will get me close.what matters is what hits the ground....right? my comparison will be very simple it's base on a stock motor to the 4.7 stroker upgrade. Banks power claims you only get a 12% to 25% gain going from 4.0 to 4.7 and 50% with his turbo. Well I want to prove him wrong and get 50% increase than slap on his turbo and get another 50%

I have access to just about any part I could imagine and just for another spoiler but also to give more insight for some people reading. I will be using a sbc callie compstar h beam rod. ThIs rod is made for a sbc journal size 2.000. My first post stated info about the crank and the offset grind and fillet. Well this is how I got the stroke to almost 4 inch, rods were turned down to 2.000 and offset ground, and he left the fillet for strength. The reason I am doing this as I have had 2 motors go in my jeep and one of them started out with rod failure, first one was bolts stretched, second motor I honestly haven't torn down. That's why I'm going all out.

Hope I got everything and thanks for following!

Last edited by EngineBuilder; 05-05-2015 at 06:50 PM..
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Unread 05-05-2015, 07:06 PM   #9
EngineBuilder
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In my post to BiomataBruce, I talked a bit about the power and power range. I wanted to expand a bit and also maybe help even the sky guy get an idea how they can even improve there stock motor, stock cam with an afternoon and a few parts.So most people know if they have taken there timing cover off and looked at the timing set there is that good ol dot locating identification mark on both gears. Of course there really is only one way this can all line up and go on for it to not be a tooth off which can be devastating to a motor. Than can be 20 degree change or a 10 degree change its somewhat of an unknown without doing the math per tooth and degree. Neither here No their but what I'm getting to is the one part you will have to purchase is comp cams 4760 degree cam bushing set.take you 11/32 drill bit I believe and drill you dowel hole out. This part is actually a lot that comes with 5 "bushings" that are offset drilled to change like 3 degrees 5 degrees, a more tunable method.They are color coded and directions onlineonline to match color with degree change.

I hope this is something some of you guys are unaware of and hope to maybe hear from someone that tries it out.

depending on your year make and model it is recommended to check valve to piston clearance when changing the degree on the cam. This does physically change the open and close points on intake and exhaust.
0502151913.jpg  
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Unread 05-08-2015, 12:33 PM   #10
EngineBuilder
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Arp head studs
Arp main studs
Oil pan stud kit
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Unread 05-08-2015, 12:35 PM   #11
EngineBuilder
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Main bearings and rod bearings uncoated
Cam bearings
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Unread 05-08-2015, 12:40 PM   #12
EngineBuilder
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Some more goodies
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Unread 05-08-2015, 12:45 PM   #13
EngineBuilder
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I want to apologize for not getting more information on here.I truly have been swamped trying to get things wrapped up for Texas invitational coming up on May 14. Maybe this weekened I will get to start machining on the block and get that info posted for everyone.
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Unread 05-09-2015, 07:41 PM   #14
EngineBuilder
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Got some work done today....this is a hard stop in the process right now due to custom pistons are still approx. 4-5 weeks out, custom torque plate 2 weeks out, rods will prob be a couple weeks as well.

I started out today by boring the cylinders to 3.925 leaving myself .010 to hone when pistons come in. My final bore will be 3.935 but I need to wait on pistons to take a measurment myself and add my piston to bore clearance in during the honing process. I will also be using a torque plate to simulate the deformation/stress that the block goes under when the head is torqued on. This process ensures a straight and cylindrical bore when finished honing.

Here are some pictures of the cylinder boring process
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Last edited by EngineBuilder; 05-09-2015 at 07:58 PM..
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Unread 05-09-2015, 07:53 PM   #15
EngineBuilder
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Than I also got the align hone done. I don't have as many pictures of this because I tend to get oil all over my hands and didn't want to wash my hands 30 times to take pics. There are also a couple pictures of the cap grinder and the cap after ground.Also provided is what we use at the shop to record data. The verification was done 30 or so minutes after completing the honing and the guage is reset. Our shop always has another person do the verification and I had another employee here working on his Ford verify for me. I choose to put it around the split to gain the approx .0005 in bearing crush back in bearing clearance. I have a video of the cylinder hone go I my for about a mminute I will try to post. Questions and comments welcomed, thanks for reading!
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