[tatooweeny]

Here is a before...

And after (so far)...

Next is the custom O.D. canvas soft top...


Still have lots of things to do like suspension, gearing and interior, but I think it's coming along rather fast. The front fenders are T&T Customs. Let me tell you they are rather challenging to install by yourself! The front blackout lights are converted to 12 volt & contain yellow bulbs for driving lights/turn signals. Other mods include M38 front shackles, rear Sherman tank/M38 taillights, MB bumperettes, MB corner grab handles & side mirrors. Reflectors are M38 style. No mods to the engine except K&N air intake & recent tune up with new seals (engine has 90,000). Lots of other little things I've done to give it that old school feel. The O.D. Canvas top will be the most challenging. Forget about the TJ doors... CJ fabric full doors for winter & CJ halfs for summer are being skinned for it. If you have any questions on how I did something, fell free to ask! Keep in mind that this is not a rock crawler! It's a daily driver that will get moderate trail riding.

[SillyPutty]

Originally Posted by tatooweeny

Here is a before...

And after (so far)...

Next is the custom O.D. canvas soft top...


Still have lots of things to do like suspension, gearing and interior, but I think it's coming along rather fast. The front fenders are T&T Customs. Let me tell you they are rather challenging to install by yourself! The front blackout lights are converted to 12 volt & contain yellow bulbs for driving lights/turn signals. Other mods include M38 front shackles, rear Sherman tank/M38 taillights, MB bumperettes, MB corner grab handles & side mirrors. Reflectors are M38 style. No mods to the engine except K&N air intake & recent tune up with new seals (engine has 90,000). Lots of other little things I've done to give it that old school feel. The O.D. Canvas top will be the most challenging. Forget about the TJ doors... CJ fabric full doors for winter & CJ halfs for summer are being skinned for it. If you have any questions on how I did something, fell free to ask! Keep in mind that this is not a rock crawler! It's a daily driver that will get moderate trail riding.

click free

[Capricorn]

Thats an awesome Jeep! Keep it up, I'm looking forward to more mods

[tatooweeny]

Thanks! I only wish I had documented the build up so far. When I get her back from the Upholstery shop, I'll do a couple write ups on some of the stuff I've done. For instance, I fabricated a steel strap that holds/locks the jerry can to the mount so no one can "borrow" gas from me when parked outside.

[srmitchell]

Thats awesome.

Props.

[Capricorn]

Get some more pictures up too!

[Baotchi]

Awesome !

[redcj576]

nicely done!! congrats!

[tjsahara1979]

Wow, that looks incredible!

[tatooweeny]

Here is some progress...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3147/2552520166_4df1b4bb0d.jpg?v=0

Here is the bracket for the bow assembly. Since it does not have a recess in the body for the bow, I had to make a spacer for the bracket. It is spot welded together to give it strength.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3015/2551697881_1b68ec582e.jpg?v=0

The seats are original wrangler front seats, cut down and squared a little to give that old school feel. I did not want to use military seats because I wanted comfort, funtionality with style. I'll continue progress as it happens.

Another view of the bow...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3160/2551847785_7b8312cb5d.jpg?v=0

From the rear you can see the height at which the top will be. The high back was common on military jeeps because the rear seat was mounted on the floor against the tailgate area. When officers sat in the back, their heads didn't touch the top. Eventually, I'll put a rear seat back there.

An updated front end...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3056/2552691832_c43df11a15.jpg?v=0

Here's an updated photo with the front lifting shackles installed with grade 8 hardware. I added a little white so they didn't cover the decals on the bumper. I thought that was a nice touch. These shackles connect to the frame, not the bumper, for added strength. They are rated at 10,000 pounds each, so I should have no problem getting out of mud holes, ditches, etc.

[lucy4227]

that looks sweet Looks totally awesome

[tatooweeny]

Here is the window channel...

Here is a pic of the windshield channel. It will be nearly invisible when finished. The edges of the canvas will have snaps on each side of the window frame. This will keep it centered & tight. Keep in mind that everything metal will be painted Lusterless Olive Drab when complete.
The bow to windshield support (front)...

The windshield soft top door seal is from a CJ7 (I believe). The rod just slips into this, & is held in place by the Bow assembly.
Bow to windshield support (rear)...

A new hole had to be drilled to keep an even plum line. There were 2 holes drilled near this, so we had to fill those to keep the bow strong.
Side curtain drop rod (top)...

This is an interesting photo because it shows what one can do with a little bit of ingenuity! Notice what it is? It's a brass pipe T-bar fitting that's been drilled out to slip the windshield rod through, then connected with a blind rivet. The other rod ( drop rod) just sits inside both top & bottom so I can disassemble everything and store it easily.
Side curtain drop rod (bottom)...

This is the bottom of the assembly. The hole was already there in the body, so we just welded a washer to the rod & set it in the hole. The black stuff is a rubber based sealant to keep the rattling to a minimum.

[GibsJeep]

Your Jeep is bad! Nice work

I like the side view mirrors, plus everything else .

[justinwalden]

Originally Posted by tatooweeny

Here is the window channel...

Here is a pic of the windshield channel. It will be nearly invisible when finished. The edges of the canvas will have snaps on each side of the window frame. This will keep it centered & tight. Keep in mind that everything metal will be painted Lusterless Olive Drab when complete.
The bow to windshield support (front)...

The windshield soft top door seal is from a CJ7 (I believe). The rod just slips into this, & is held in place by the Bow assembly.
Bow to windshield support (rear)...

A new hole had to be drilled to keep an even plum line. There were 2 holes drilled near this, so we had to fill those to keep the bow strong.
Side curtain drop rod (top)...

This is an interesting photo because it shows what one can do with a little bit of ingenuity! Notice what it is? It's a brass pipe T-bar fitting that's been drilled out to slip the windshield rod through, then connected with a blind rivet. The other rod ( drop rod) just sits inside both top & bottom so I can disassemble everything and store it easily.
Side curtain drop rod (bottom)...

This is the bottom of the assembly. The hole was already there in the body, so we just welded a washer to the rod & set it in the hole. The black stuff is a rubber based sealant to keep the rattling to a minimum.

!!!!!

[TXST8tj]

Originally Posted by tatooweeny

Here is some progress...


Here is the bracket for the bow assembly. Since it does not have a recess in the body for the bow, I had to make a spacer for the bracket. It is spot welded together to give it strength.



The seats are original wrangler front seats, cut down and squared a little to give that old school feel. I did not want to use military seats because I wanted comfort, funtionality with style. I'll continue progress as it happens.

Another view of the bow...


From the rear you can see the height at which the top will be. The high back was common on military jeeps because the rear seat was mounted on the floor against the tailgate area. When officers sat in the back, their heads didn't touch the top. Eventually, I'll put a rear seat back there.

An updated front end...


Here's an updated photo with the front lifting shackles installed with grade 8 hardware. I added a little white so they didn't cover the decals on the bumper. I thought that was a nice touch. These shackles connect to the frame, not the bumper, for added strength. They are rated at 10,000 pounds each, so I should have no problem getting out of mud holes, ditches, etc.

. .