as previously noted, i managed to bash the crap outta my knee yesterday, and was feeling discouraged about having to delay installing my aux lights YET AGAIN. i posted about it here, and gave it more thought. then i remembered there was an empty garage (and some heavy rains), and i figured i could pull it inside and take my time.
then necro basically called me out for being a sissy.
so i conscripted my brother, and we went out to remove crawley's hard top. the last few days, i have left crawley's doors off, and at some point, some a**hole cat decided to crap in my back seat.
i cleaned it up and used a ton of this whilst scowling at every cat that came near me and making snarling noises to chase them away:
in the mean time, while i was there, i decided to say eff it and removed crawley's soft top. seems mostly intact, and may have more of the hardware than i thought, but still no side windows or rear window, and there is a bit of damage to the header.
f*** you kitty, go away.
this part looks a little grungy, but not bad.
back to the topic, a friend of mine had installed her aux lighting and had informed me that she had done it by folding down her windshield instead of drilling. since i prefer the option to revert crawley back to stock if i feel the desire, opting out of drilling sounded pretty damn good to me.
so it was that we began to lower the windshield. while we were looking at it, i armorall'd the top of the windshield frame.... because it looked like it had never been done.
i ALMOST got overzealous and removed the sport bars, but decided against it as it was not necessary to the operation at hand. (though if i were to do it again, i would consider removing them, as they do impair a lot of vertical space, and if you happen to need to keep one leg straight for some reason, it's not a bad way to go.)
btw, a tip for future newbies: the bolts that connect the sport bars to the windshield and the bolts that go in the side of the windshield (right in front of your mirror if your door is closed and you happen to still have that thing on there) are different sizes. just barely.
the longer one on the left is the one that goes to the side of the windshield. keep this in mind, or keep the separated. they are not pals~
and here is the result:
since i have never had crawley's windshield down before, i figured it was time to go for a ride. the manual says not to do this, but if that's an issue, why did they give me the capability to do so?
this excursion was a brief one due to rain and the fact that it's difficult to drive with water being forced into your eyes.
anyway, with that distraction over we returned to the garage and looked at what we had to work with. we decided to remove.... whatever the **** this is:
we figured that would give us a good way to conceal the wiring, and also gave me a chance to find some missing quarters i happened to have left in that useless little cubby on top of my dash, that happened to escape while crawley was making some daring maneuver or another.
we pretty much followed basic instructions for this part. it said to find a ground, and we did. on both sides there is a tiny bolt that is attached to some misc. bracket thing (i know my technical terms here are amazing) and we used those. you'll want to use a 10mm socket for those
you can also see in those pics how we had the wiring run. i opted to have the excess cable run closer to the driver's side as it gave me the most space to work with for my switch.
these are the splicers that it comes with. ignore the instructions they give you here.
the instructions tell you to run the green cable against the metal part, then use pliers to close it until it clicks, then insert the red cable from the light.
whoever wrote that direction should be hit in the head with something large... or maybe they already have been. it is MUCH easier to insert the red cable before sealing it and there are no adverse effects.
after this, we crimped the metal cable covers of the lights, and folded them into the windhsield which we brought back up. and bolted back into place. the visible part is as such:
not beautiful, but you'd have to look really hard to criticize it.
after following the rest of the directions we had to run a line to the battery. i had to feed some cable through a hole in the firewall right about here:
which emerges here
you'll note i was a lazyass and ran the cable alongside the grommet in there. i had to use my leatherman to wedge it aside and feed it through and then re-seat it by pulling at it with the pliers. sounds easy, but it was a pain.
for those that wonder, the nut on the battery terminal is 13mm.
we ran the line from the battery over to the driver's side and fastened everything down using the provided zip ties to fasten it to that cable cover that runs along the top there.
yes, my engine compartment is grody. i am actually looking to find the best method to clean it, so if you are cringing at that and have recommendations, feel free to criticize me with them
the two cables meet up with a fuse that is similar to the splicers. we placed that pretty close to the hole, and admittedly, probably should have given the cable a bit more slack than we did. i didn't take a pic because i was already a bit more aggravated than need be.
now for the embarrassment: since i am unsure of where i ABSOLUTELY want my switch, i have a LOT of cable to play with on it since it's easier to cut cable than to add it.
i am probably going to mount the switch just below the console's turn signal arm, but i want to try it with double sided tape for a while before comitting to putting a hole there. many of you would probably recommend using the open switch spot near my 12v plug, but i want something i can hit as fast as i can disable my brights, and i plan on installing foglights.... which will occupy that final switch spot.
now the part i was waiting for.... results:
with aux lights:
if you got this far, thanks for reading.