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Unread 10-16-2013, 06:03 PM   #1
1999TJRED85000
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 611
CORBEAU BAJA XRS SEAT install and review

Okay ... some of the people on this forum have been really
horse$h1t to me in the past, but I appreciate the info that I
had gotten from the various pages, so I'll post this review
despite the actions of the few.

I finally bit the bullet and bought a pair of Corbeau Baja XRS
suspension seats in Black vinyl/gray cloth. As you can see,
the final install is pretty nice:



But there were a few snags along the way, and they have a
few problems too.

Problem #1. If you are over 6'0" tall, be prepared to build or
modify the bracket that attaches the seats to the OEM support.
The bracket they sell you moves the seats about 1/2" to 1"
closer to the dash than the original seat placement. If I were
any taller, my knees might hit. This can probably be fixed by
moving the seats about 1/2" closer to the center console, which
would allow the tilt mechanism to clear the bottom of the roll
cage. As it sits from Corbeau, the tilt mechanism hits the bar
and prevents the seat from sliding all the way back. The same
is true on both sides, but the drivers side may or may not have
enough room to squeeze the seat to the right. There seems to
be only 1/4" room there, and I'm not sure I could modify the
bracket enough to make the seat fit. If I get some energy this
winter, I might mess with it.

Problem #2. They didn't mention what a PIA these OEM brackets
are to remove from your old seats and put on the new ones. I
spent 90% of my time trying to get my big fat fingers inside the
seat frame to loosen the 4 nuts that hold the two together. I guess
it's unavoidable, but I wish they would have said something so
I knew what a PIA it would be.

Tool required: All I needed were the following:
3 - 1/2 ratchet wrenches. You need a tiny one, a medium one,
and a big giant one. (I'll explain later)
1 - #T50 torx. I was surprised that one of the bolts holding the seat
down is a T50. Heck, the bumper was held on with 4 - T44 bolts.
I had to go borrow a #50.
1 - 1/2 inch open end wrench - preferably about a foot long.
1 - 10 mm open end wrench
1 - 10 mm socket for the tiny ratchet
1 drill and assorted drill bits
1 can WD40.
1 small set hex wrenches.

Removing the seat is a no-brainer, or so I thought. The back
bolts were rusted, so WD40 can help. I used my big huge ratchet
wrench (one is 1/2" and the other is the Torx #50) on these guys.
The front two bolts came out pretty easily, but I used the medium
sized wrench to loosen them, and then I used the tiny ratchet wrench
to actually remove them. It's a tight fit and hard to get that wrench
in there.

Now, getting that darn bracket off the bottom of the seat is a little
tedious. No ratchet or quick wrench will fit. You need to use a
simple 1/2" open end wrench and remove each bolt, 1/6 turn at a
time. It took me a while, but I got them off. Save the nuts because
you use them to secure the bracket to the new seat. Do the same to
the driver's seat. Since it doesn't have the flop feature, it's a little
easier, but the bolts are all tough to reach. Use the WD40 and big
giant ratchet to get the stubborn bolts out. A little WD40 in the holes
afterward and they should go back in fairly easily.

Now, place the OEM brackets on the bottoms of the new seats, along
with the adapter brackets. You'll have to play around with them a little
to find how to secure them properly. I ended up securing the back bolts
first, and then the adapter ones, and then the front bolts, and then the
front adapter bolts. It's a PIA because everything is in the way. Then
you need to put the nuts that you removed from the seats/brackets back
on the seats/new brackets. 4 per seat. They go on upside down, in
between the seat and bracket, so this is best done with the seat upside
down, under a bright light. Tightening the nuts can only be done with
the open end wrench. (yes, it's slow ... do as much as you can with
your fingers first) You might have to drill out the OEM release, where
the adapter bracket attaches. I did. It took me about 2 minutes. Use
the small ratchet/wrench to snug up the supplied nut w/ aircraft bolt.
(don't tighten it - it has to move when the latch is pulled) Also, the
rear release latch goes under the main support. (or above, once you turn
the seat back over) Don't put the bracket together with the pull handle
between the bracket and seat. It gets caught in between and you need
to take it apart and then put it back together again ... like I did.
Secure the little handle looking thing to the seat that holds the lever in
place. (two small bolts/nuts/washers provided)

Once the seats, OEM brackets, and adapter brackets are all together,
it's just a matter of putting them back in place and putting all 4 bolts
back in. Reinstall took 15 minutes. Removal took 15 minutes.
Screwing around getting those goofy nuts on/off took 3 hours.

All-in-all they look pretty good and feel pretty good. BUT ... if you have
a big a$$, don't get these seats. I'm 6'0" and 192 lbs and the side
bolsters are fairly snug. If I was fat, these seats would not fit. Also,
like I said at the beginning, if you're taller than 6'0", or have an inseam
greater than 32", keep in mind you might have to drill the brackets
and adjust the seat position ... read: install, uninstall, adjust, reinstall,
and possibly repeat.

It took me 4 hours including time to drive over to a friends' and
borrow a Torx 50.

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Unread 05-18-2014, 01:24 PM   #2
BeerChameleon
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 13
Thanks for this post. I was wondering how they looked with the cloth on them. I think I will buy them with cloth! they look great!

I probaly will by the adapter bracket for oem for passenger and the other bracket for drivers.
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Unread 05-18-2014, 01:28 PM   #3
mudb8
want it rite or rite now?
 
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Estacada, oregon
Posts: 5,633
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
New seats for the lj....
Corbeau's mounts sukk tho. Redrilled the passenger sisde fold n tumble adaptor inboard 3/4" to clear the roll bar with a little rubbing.
Rear seat bolted in without any modification other than some extra persuasion and some new hex hardware since the ratchet with a driver is to tall.
The drivers side is work in progress. The corbeau mount has the seat sitting cokeyed over a half inch, wont slide back due to hitting the belt ratchet and the cage. It is also 1 1/4" lower than the passenger seat on the fold and tumble. I have redrilled and adjusted it to clear as the passenger side does. In this position it sits straight butt cant slide forward to accommodate the owners 5'3" wife due to the console.
I got this tho i have a stupid amount of time in it now....











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Unread 05-18-2014, 01:41 PM   #4
mudb8
want it rite or rite now?
 
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Estacada, oregon
Posts: 5,633
__________________
I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com
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